I am waiting on my Ferrita performance downpipe, but it has hi-flow cats. Should be here soon, O2 sensor spacer already arrived. Will gladly report out once installed.
I am the Ferrita importer for the UK and have recently had a serious enquiry from one of the very few p* owners here. I have suggested to him that this d'pipe could add some more power, but only with software changes, it is unlikely that changing the standard Ferrita made 'cat back' for Ferrita's own T6 sports alternative would have any further beneficial outcome in terms of engine outputs. Volvo could not use a d'pipe with 100 cel cat in their standard p* offering as it would not meet the very strict emissions criteria that manufacturers have to meet from a cold start up.
It is my opinion that my customer will need some software changes to get the car to run properly with this Ferrita downpipe fitted and, as the MTE man here in the UK, that can be done and will result in some extra power and torque. I do not think that just spacing out a lambda sensor will properly fix the underlying cause of a check light coming on. Once you have the d'pipe fitted, with or without the spacer or revised software, I would be interested in your experience.
The d'pipe will also subtly change the exhaust note, both in and outside the car.
MTE have already done some work on these cars and have found their software revisions, optimisation if you like, give some increase in torque throughout the rev range which is giving a satsfactory improvement over Volvo's original calibrations.
Agree, My R-design is significantly faster then the other R-designs in town. All are stock, difference is mine got broken in on the Nurburgring and then saw a season of SCCA autocrossing. Down the dragstrip against one that was the exact same color and and all with the same mods (Air filter) Mine pulled a solid 6-7 car lengths and 3 mph at the line with near identical 60ft's and he got me on the tree.
The question is what is causing the "pop". I've heard all types of theories on this from unburnt fuel igniting in the exhaust to lower backpressure causing a difference in the convergence of sound waves. Hopefully it is not an issue of fuel getting into and igniting in the exhaust system because that can cause issues over time. I'm not technical enough to say one way or the other what is causing it.
The K-PAX Performance Cars exhaust for the T6 models will work with the Polestar cars. The KPAX setup is a more aggressive sounding exhaust when compared to the stock Polestar, HEICO and Ferrita cat-back systems.
Momentum Volvo is a KPAX dealer. http://www.momentumvolvo.net - Rich Forsythe (moosetech) is on swedespeed works at Momentum and handles the KPAX sales.
ViVA Performance is a U.S. based Ferrita dealer. http://www.vivaperformance.com
I've noticed sound note is getting enhanced as i brake it in more so I'll have to wait longer to really hear the potential of sound pops.
As for KPax exhaust I don't think it comes with programable open/close flap does it?
All relative, my Polestar is the subdued car . Part of the pronouced noise in Sport is the RPMs that are unnecessarily high in 90% of the driving conditions. When being more aggressive, I do like the rev holding. I still wish the car had a button to actuate the flap so I could bundle the enhanced sound with normal shifting.
Being in MN, that must mean that some of your cars are undriveable for a lot of the year but a lot of fun in the summer. I get the desire for a button but I think I agree with the premise for it not being there. The exhaust system is not about being louder, it's about increased performance(air flow). Polestar is a racing company, so it has to be about performance first. Doing something just for sound is almost as bad as BMW pumping exhaust noise through the stereo on the M's. Just my 2 cents.
1) a manually-activated exhaust flap.
2) manual gear adjustment without going into Sport (throttle and exhaust) mode (or just a much, much longer delay before it auto-returns to D).
What's the proper way of breaking it in if I may ask. Go easy or hard from the start? So far I got 2.2k km. And I went super easy for first 1100km then normal spirited driving. Nothing cray yet. Did one proper launch at 1900km
I gave mine 100 miles before I gave it full throttle. I did run it in manual mode up to high RPM and let it coast down to help seat the rings. At 100 miles (I picked it up at the factory and drove it straight to the ring 750 miles away), I ran it through a couple gears. About 200 miles in I was on the Autobahn and it saw the speed Governor at 135mph first shot of no speed limit. The next day with 750 miles on it I did laps on the ring. I had never driven the track before so they weren't 10/10ths laps but I do actively race in the states and carry and SCCA National License so my 7/10ths lap is probably similar to a novices 11/10ths lap. My car doesn't burn a drop of oil between oil changes and seems to be quicker then any R-design I've come across. This is video (windows are tinted so you have to watch the headlights sorry it's hard to see) of mine vs another R-design down the drag strip. Both cars are virtually stock (air filter).
I've never tried to run a quarter with my S60R because being a stick I won't abuse the car to the point of leaving hard and not even sure how one would do that...I think would end up needing a clutch or a broken shaft somewhere. I have no doubt the Polestar would dust my R from a stop but I sure don't think it would be behind for long but maybe I'm getting fooled by the smoothness of the Polestar...I have to get my performance meter out of trunk of polestar and do some runs in both 30 to 70 60 to 100 etc. Last fall the Polestar definitely showed more G's accelerating that the R but that was because I was using launch control and leaving hard.
I never thought the R design would trap 106+. my best trap was 106.92 so essentially 107. It felt like a 101 , 102 trap speed car. My old M3 "felt" faster but only trapped 101. So who knows
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