SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

Rear Cam Seal replacment

2K views 1 reply 2 participants last post by  gdill2 
#1 ·
92 960 with leaky rear cam seal. Anyone replace their own? Any tips on doing this job? I am attempting to but have a few questions. Hello..anyone??
 
#2 ·
Re: Rear Cam Seal replacment (Instrument 40)

(from the Brickboard at http://www.brickboard.com/ARCHIVES/1999AUG/20043128.shtml)('95 960)

Have fun!

George Dill

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"HEY MOE ! " Rear Cam Seal is DONE![900/95] posted by Tom Irwin on
Saturday, 14 August 1999, at 12:32 a.m.

First, many thanks go out to Steve, Abe and the other generous tipsters without who's help I would have had a bit more difficulty.

Second, somebody may want to "Red Star" this one if it's useful.

Ok, the heater hoses are in the way so in preparing to disconnect and remove them I drained ~6 litres of coolant from the petcock on the Ex. side of the block. Make sure you have a jug of Type C Blue sitting around before you start, if you choose to do it this way.

Well, then I noticed that with the coolant drained, the hoses became soft and flexible enough to be squished back/down out of the way. So I did that and left them connected.

Don't even think of doing this job without a telescoping inspection mirror, preferably a self-illuminated one.

The 2 T-40's that hold the cam sensor housing to the head...these are BIG mamajama's! They are made of soft metal and are easily deformed. And I promise you, they are frozen in their threads. Breakaway torque is considerably stonger then the set torque values. **CAUTION** if you strip or otherwise wreck the bottom T-40 fastener, you will likely have to PULL THE ENGINE to complete the job...'Nuff said.

Also, DO NOT use an El Cheapo T-40 driver bit either...if it comes out of a kit with a bazillion other parts...uses different adapters to connect it to a plastic handle and says "made in China"...GET THEM OUT OF THE WORK AREA..
Luckily, I went after the top T-40 first and the bit yielded under load and wrecked the head of the T-40!! Because it was the TOP one I was able to grab it hard with a monster vise-grip and bust it loose, after which it spun right out, no problem.

My wife went out and got me a hardened, impact grade T-40 x 3/8" ratchet drive bit. Made ALL the difference! Even after I cheezed up the lower one a little, this quality bit grabbed it's target and brought the lower bolt out.

The Cam Sensor cover may be a bit gummed up with oil residue, so it may want to rotate a bit instead of withdrawing from the head. Fine! Rotate it CCW a bit and you can tap the upper and lower mtg. ears with a drift and light hammer alternately, until it walk's out. Set this aside.

Remove the 10mm bolt that retains the "shutter wheel" this is kinda like taking out a rotor from a distributor housing. no problem. Set the shutter aside.

Wipe out the pooled oil.

If you are smart you'll have a seal picker kit with many different parts to make many different articulated angles...you will need them. If you are *me* you'll waste an hour sacrifice two craftsman screwdrivers in a vise with an Acetylene torch, trying to fabricate the same thing. For the record, the smaller one worked better. Use a Dremel tool or equiv. to de-burr and hone the business end of this thing so as to not damgage any sealing surfaces.

Now is when you MUST have an inspection mirror. Get on back there, work carefully as you are working a mirrored image. Hook that sucker under the garter spring + up behind the metal ring an it pops right out real easy.
Wipe the cavity out again and reinspect the sealing surfaces for damage.

Lube up the new seal with... I dunno...I used heavy weight petrolatum..and ease it over the cam shaft. Try and jam several fingers back there and push evenly on different point on the seal. Make sure it doesn't rooster in the bore. Stop and use your inspection mirror frequently to check it is even. To bring it home...again, if your smart, you'll find a way to get a hold of Volvo Tool P/N 999-5450. It has a perfectly dimensioned steel cup with a hole in the back to put your cam shaft shuter bolt thru temporarily to tighten the cup down and push the seal in to place. If you are me, you'll hack a piece of nylon bar stock at work and while the prototype machinists are on break and "borrow" a CNC Vertical Mill and fabricate same based on Seal dimensions and your best guess from a picture in the service manual.
Anyway, my best guess was about .250" off, but before I ran off to get a longer bolt, I put both hands on it and squeezed it against the head and ... "Whump" it popped right in.

Check it again with the mirror for even seating.

Put the shutter + 10mm bolt back in. Fit the tabs squarely in the milled slot on the end of the cam. Tighten.

Clean the rim on the sensor cover and gently fit it over the shutter wheel being careful not to damge the magnetic pick up chingas inside.

Align the holes and replace the T-40's.

Fill-up your coolant.

Take a Prozac.

Start your engine.

Check your work.

Tom --
Tom Irwin '95 960 '94 940 Los Angeles, CA
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top