George recommended I post up my spring work list to get help/insight from the community.In September I bought Eugene, George's '68 122 wagon. Two weeks later on my inaugural road trip I was bumped by a drunk driver. Insurance finally settled things and the search for a body shop has begun. So as I put together my list of projects for the spring I thought I would solicit advice.
First things first I have to find a shop to do the body work. I think I know who I want to do it, I just have to get all the estimates in and cash from GEICO. From there he will get sent off for a make-over. I'm going to stick with the mint green, though I am going to try to work out a full spray.
While he is gone I'll be rebuilding/repainting the M41 that Santa (UPS) delivered while I was gone. The seller said everything was there, but it needed a rebuild before getting installed. I suppose the first order of business is figuring out just which M41 I have (it had the short shifter, seller said he would swap it to the long shifter before shipping). Thoughts on where to look for model/unit #'s? From there how about a good place to get the rebuild parts? I know IPD has the seals/gaskets, but if it needs new bearings those will have to come from someplace.
Once the M41 is done I'll be pulling the engine and repainting it. Then engine and trans will go in (on new rubber - smooth). From there the custom driveshaft will get welded up and BAM Eugene has OD.
While all of this is happening the interior will be cleaned up. Water got in and made a mess of the burlap sound deadener. I got it all dried out, but the burlap has to go. I've got fresh rubber (well I need to check out how fresh it is, I should say I have new, uninstalled rubber).
Lots of side projects too while all this is going on:
Drivers vent window upper hinge has pulled out.
Suspension: bushings/shocksAll of this in my two car garage, while trying to get a second 1car/shop garage built. certainly won't be done by spring, but should be done by summers end.
I've taken the liberty of mentioning your interest to Tim Cox, who makes HeatBlok firewall mats and floor underlayments, etc. He posts regularly on the 1800list.
You might want to get in touch with Duane Hoberg in Kansas City (ODGuru). He can furnish both advice and parts on your ODs.
Welcome (back) to Swedespeed, Matt.This is gonna be one fine ride, Sir.
When my Volvo enthusiasm level nearly equaled yours (1968-2008) this project would have found priority over all but breathing - not something I would recommend today.
Nevertheless, let's roll!
For starters here is some good stuff on M41/OD...
http://www.vclassics.com/archive/tranhow.htm
...where you can see the two different transmission covers - the "short" cover accommodates Eugene's current shift lever location.
Here is a quick write-up on another install...
http://www.uoregon.edu/~tpayne/Car4.htm
...and for your reading pleasure in the wee morning hours...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volvo_Amazon
More later.
George Dill
Thanks. I'll check on the quality of my replacement rubber when I get home. From there I had planned on doing a fairly major job of sound/heat proofing the floor. I'd be interested in hearing about some of the commercial options as I had planned on using silver reflective shield and upholstery felt.
George Downs suggested I contact you about my heat blocking products for a 122
http://www.heatblok.com I am currently working on a headliner and floorliner blanket. If you wish more information email me at timcox102@hotmail.com or call at 616-240-4440
Tim Cox
I currently have a free shipping on a combination firewall and tunnel blanket for a 122 (I have an unconditional money back guarantee of satisfaction!)
After looking at the heatblok I'm not 100% its the right solution for my wagon. I like the OEM fit and the low profile nature of the product, but am not certain that it will do a good enough job. I may pick up the firewall pad, but I don't think the major heat in the cab is from the tranny tunnel, rather the lack of heat shields on the exhaust which runs under the seat/floor of the passenger side.tentatively I think I'll stick with alternative products/options for the floors and perhaps the Heatblok for the firewall.
A ton of heat and noise comes up through the shift boot. That is why it has (lousy) insulation in it and also why it must be installed properly (lip between the two metal flanges).The firewall has many openings and leaks engine bay heat/noise/stink into the cabin.
The wagon's interior at cruise acts like a drum and picks up the harmonics from the engine at various rpms/gears/speeds.
The doors have factory-installed liners behind the interior panels which deteriorate over time and allow much noise/vibration into the interior.
If the seals around the glass are shrunk/dried/cracked the pane will hum like crazy at speed.
The outside rearview mirrors will sing loudly at speed so good-fitting vent window seals are a must.
Where was I - oh, yeah, trans/OD.
Since the engine, trans, OD and short shaft all shake as a unit they must be held in place by the front engine mounts and trans mount. This alignment is critical for smooth operation at all speeds under all conditions. The trans/OD must have space to wiggle in the chassis tunnel without contacting anything but also must be restrained sufficiently to keep the power train in alignment. This is also why the two-piece drive shaft needs to be balanced as a unit.
The speedo cable will hook up to the trans/OD and may need a 90-degree drive adapter. Also, depending on the trans cover used the OD lock-out aparatus may need to be modified. Some folks try to run the OD in all gears which is cool if you are the only driver and NEVER forget to disengage the OD when reversing. Best to use the lock-out where the OD engages in fourth gear only.
This is gonna be one fine ride.
George Dill
Modified by gdill2 at 12:01 PM 4-2-2009
Spring projects start this weekend.New fuel pump, New Coil, Crane ignition, and a couple other odds and ends.
I'd like to start on some suspension work, but I'm gonna save that till after the spring face lift later this month.
Quote, originally posted by volvostud » Spring projects start this weekend. New fuel pump, New Coil, Crane ignition, and a couple other odds and ends.
I'd like to start on some suspension work, but I'm gonna save that till after the spring face lift later this month.
Once you get the car running good with the Crane, coil and new fuel pump in place consider four new spark plugs (NGK BP6HS or equivalent).
Set the plug gap at 0.040" then adjust the engine timing to eliminate any pinging under load.
The ignition wires on the car are the high-dollar set no longer offered by ipd and for good reason. The connections at the coil and center distributor terminal are prone to work loose. If the car won't start check these connections to be sure the brass post on the wire is fully seated in the coil/distributor.
ipd has all-new wire sets made by them...
http://www.ipdusa.com/uploads/...3.jpg
One of the many nice things about the Crane system is the elimination of the attachment screw in the hole of the body of the distributor which connects the coil/condensor to the breaker in the distributor. That tiny (and brittle) donut insulator is so critical to the start/no-start situation.
This is gonna be one fine ride, y'all.
George Dill
http://www.vintageimportparts.com should have everything you need to rebuild anything on the car.
http://www.sw-em.com/techarticles.htmGeorge Dill
Just to revive this one.I just received Tim´s heatblok carpet for the firewall and tunnel. I am going to install the firewall one onto the metal, and then a new oem-style blanket on top of that. Tim´s product looks solid, soft and and seems to have very good insulation properties.
You are right that not much heat comes through the tunnel. If it did, your gearbox would fail on you pretty soon, as heat couldn´t get there without the gearbox being overheated and the oil getting burnt.
However a lot of noise comes through the tunnel and the product is also good for that, or as an underlayer to the rubber mats / carpet you may have in your car.
Having Tim around saves me the time of cutting down mats myself and having to fabricate this on the spot. For me that is worth it.
I'm glad you were able to do business with Tim. He's also a realtor and the market is BAD in his area!
Matt (volvostud) and I have been emailing up-n-down IH-35 concerning an alternator conversion on his '68 122S wagon with stock B18B and original generator.The ipd kit is for '62-'66 B18 only so that's out.
A discussion on the Brickboard included the mention of a special casting on the "later" B18 blocks specifically for mounting an alternator (Walrus3).
In that same thread Volvo From Heck claimed to have modified the existing generator bracket to accept a GM alternator.
Then there is the SWEM kit...
...which should work but is a bit $$$ when adding in a new/rebuilt alternator.
Y'all jump in here with your 2 cents...
George Dill
To add to George. Mechman.com will custom machine me an AC Delco 100-140 singlewire to work with the B18.The word on Turbobricks is I can drill out the lower mount on the 100amp Bosch from a 960 and it will mount right up, but I am not sure if that is true for the 68 manifold which is a little lower.
Reading through this...http://www.volvoamazonpictures....html
...and this...
http://www.volvoamazonpictures....html
...it appears that the B18B in volvostud's P220 wagon does indeed have an "ear" cast into the block to accomodate an alternator. This feature appeared first in the '67 123GT (with alternator).
This "ear" and the existing "double-hump" manifold present a different picture when attempting to install an alternator with a pulley that will align perfectly with the existing crank and fan pulleys.
George Dill
Crane went in this weekend. Went with an industrial velcro install on the inside of the car, firewall. Mounting and wiring was easy, getting the distributor parts installed took a lot of adjustment, but nothing impossible.
Valves adjusted to a tight 0.016, with all the head bolts torqued up to factory specs.
And finally the coil was mounted using a vertical coil mount from Mr Gasket. I had to fab up a small filler plate as the new Bosch blue coil is smaller than the stock coil.
With everything installed and a slight carb adjustment everything is running beautifully. Car starts the first time with no choke, has power off the line, and doesn't bog under acceleration. I still have a slight vac leak at the carb, but I have the gaskets to clear that up and will get them installed this week.
From here I had planned on tackling the firewall and floors, installing a new rubber floor mat over a fairly intense sound deadening set-up. But the rear brakes are having some problems, making the car unsafe for regular use. So new shoes on the back end comes first. So I'll go ahead and get the rear suspension work knocked out while I have the back end up.
Write-up and pics on rear drum brake work and M41/OD rebuild by others...http://123gt.blogspot.com/2008/06/on-volvos.html
George Dill
Yep, rear brakes are scheduled for this Saturday. While I am down there I'll be doing the rear suspension too.So this saturday will see:
New Shocks
New Poly bushings
New rear brake pads and rebuild
IPD Sway bar
and a general cleaning up of everything back there.The following weekend will see the same on the front of the car.
Sure is quiet in here.George Dill
Been out of town for work the last three weeks. Finally back in Austin so it's time to get back to work on Eugene.Rear brakes first, then interior work.
WAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYY too HOT to be wrenchin' Volvos in Austin, Texas - first cold front just 60 days away!George Dill
I've suddenly found myself with an abundance of time. When not looking for a job I've got a list of work to do on Eugene.I picked up a window unit from a friend so now my garage will be climate controlled, well sort of at least.
So today, wednesday, I am going to finally deal with those pesky rear brakes. I havn;t had the rear lock up lately, but I also have not slammed on the brakes to check it. While I have the rear on stands I'll probably knock out the shocks, rear sway and rear bushings.
Next week I'll do the front bushings and front sway bar.
From there we move to the replacement floor material.
All in time for the Texas Classic Car show here in Austin, Sept 12.
Rear brake drum won't come off - email sent.George Dill
Drum is off!At least on the driver's side.
No leaking rear wheel brake cylinder or oozing axle grease and the drum is ok.
Not sure why this wheel locked up on hard braking.
George Dill
Could it be that the pressure reducing valve is NF or maladjusted?
Quote, originally posted by Walrus3 » Could it be that the pressure reducing valve is NF or maladjusted? Yeah - wonder if dual-circuit cars have two PRV's?
I seem to remember something about "inertia-activated" and "non-adjustable" but this may have been the PRV's on earlier cars.
Here is an undogly long thread with over 251 replies and many repeats BUT some VERY important (and accurate) info on rear end swaps for the '68 122 wagon...
http://forums.turbobricks.com/...13715
George Dill
Quote, originally posted by gdill2 » Yeah - wonder if dual-circuit cars have two PRV's? ...
George Dill
All my 140s from '72 to '74 did, if that's any help.
'88 Volvo 240 auto (grocery getter), '89 Volvo 240 5 spd. (my car), '80 Holiday Rambler/Ford E350 (tow vehicle and track crash pad), '95 GMC K2500 (local hauler/back-up tow vehicle), '83 Mazda RX7 (race car when I have the funds), '99 Miska 20' car hauler.
The man's prayer: "I'm a man, but I can change, ... if I have to, ... I guess."
Thursday, 27 August 2009.Both drums are off - now searching for rear wheel brake cylinders and brake shoes specific to the '68 122 wagon with the Wagner self-adjust system.
Brake shoes - 271813 - set for one axle
Wheel cylinder - 673391 2ea
George Dill
Dill, are you telling me you NEVER looked under your 164?
Quote, originally posted by Walrus3 » Dill, are you telling me you NEVER looked under your 164? Sheet, mon, I can't remember who's buried in Grant's tomb much less what's under any one of my long-gone Volvos.
George Dill
So yeah, George said it. Drums are both off. And the hunt for parts has begun.I've located the shoes, cheap and generic. If they are a match I'll post all the important info on them
As for the cylinders. The drivers side is in great shape and the pass side leaks a little bit. So I'm hunting down rebuild kits. Heading to the local Brake and Clutch shop to see if they can help with the rebuild. If not another shop in town has a set of the 7/8 replacement cylinders on hold for me.
So the lock up...two possibilities. One of the connecting springs on the drive side was disconnected. So perhaps the pad was not engaging correctly. Option two, the pass side was in BAD shape. there was a slimmy residue all over everything, including the shoes and drum. A soak in brake cleaner took care of the drum but the pads are in a bad place. My thought is maybe no amount of brake was enough to get that side to stop so the pressure transfered over and caused over braking on the other side.
Either way, rebuilt or replaced cylinders this weekend. Shoes on Tuesday. then a full flush and bleed. If lock up persists, then I'll look further up the lines from the cylinders.
Added bonus, everything is getting a fresh coat of paint while off the car. And the suspension is getting cleaned up and the bushings and shocks are getting updated. I've also got the rear sway to install.
Should be a busy weekend.
Brake fluid on the shoes will cause them to grab hard, counter-intuitively. I think you're looking at the problem right there.
Speaking of brakes - I have used Castrol GT LMA DOT-4 for many years but would like to know what over-the-counter brake fluid brands are ok in the older Volvos having 40+ year-old seals and components made from rubber and other old-tech materials.George Dill
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