Thanks. I'll check on the quality of my replacement rubber when I get home. From there I had planned on doing a fairly major job of sound/heat proofing the floor. I'd be interested in hearing about some of the commercial options as I had planned on using silver reflective shield and upholstery felt.
After looking at the heatblok I'm not 100% its the right solution for my wagon. I like the OEM fit and the low profile nature of the product, but am not certain that it will do a good enough job. I may pick up the firewall pad, but I don't think the major heat in the cab is from the tranny tunnel, rather the lack of heat shields on the exhaust which runs under the seat/floor of the passenger side.tentatively I think I'll stick with alternative products/options for the floors and perhaps the Heatblok for the firewall.
A ton of heat and noise comes up through the shift boot. That is why it has (lousy) insulation in it and also why it must be installed properly (lip between the two metal flanges).The firewall has many openings and leaks engine bay heat/noise/stink into the cabin.
The wagon's interior at cruise acts like a drum and picks up the harmonics from the engine at various rpms/gears/speeds.
The doors have factory-installed liners behind the interior panels which deteriorate over time and allow much noise/vibration into the interior.
If the seals around the glass are shrunk/dried/cracked the pane will hum like crazy at speed.
The outside rearview mirrors will sing loudly at speed so good-fitting vent window seals are a must.
Where was I - oh, yeah, trans/OD.
Since the engine, trans, OD and short shaft all shake as a unit they must be held in place by the front engine mounts and trans mount. This alignment is critical for smooth operation at all speeds under all conditions. The trans/OD must have space to wiggle in the chassis tunnel without contacting anything but also must be restrained sufficiently to keep the power train in alignment. This is also why the two-piece drive shaft needs to be balanced as a unit.
The speedo cable will hook up to the trans/OD and may need a 90-degree drive adapter. Also, depending on the trans cover used the OD lock-out aparatus may need to be modified. Some folks try to run the OD in all gears which is cool if you are the only driver and NEVER forget to disengage the OD when reversing. Best to use the lock-out where the OD engages in fourth gear only.
This is gonna be one fine ride.
George Dill
Modified by gdill2 at 12:01 PM 4-2-2009
Just to revive this one.I just received Timīs heatblok carpet for the firewall and tunnel. I am going to install the firewall one onto the metal, and then a new oem-style blanket on top of that. Timīs product looks solid, soft and and seems to have very good insulation properties.
You are right that not much heat comes through the tunnel. If it did, your gearbox would fail on you pretty soon, as heat couldnīt get there without the gearbox being overheated and the oil getting burnt.
However a lot of noise comes through the tunnel and the product is also good for that, or as an underlayer to the rubber mats / carpet you may have in your car.
Having Tim around saves me the time of cutting down mats myself and having to fabricate this on the spot. For me that is worth it.
I'm glad you were able to do business with Tim. He's also a realtor and the market is BAD in his area!
Matt (volvostud) and I have been emailing up-n-down IH-35 concerning an alternator conversion on his '68 122S wagon with stock B18B and original generator.The ipd kit is for '62-'66 B18 only so that's out.
A discussion on the Brickboard included the mention of a special casting on the "later" B18 blocks specifically for mounting an alternator (Walrus3).
In that same thread Volvo From Heck claimed to have modified the existing generator bracket to accept a GM alternator.
Then there is the SWEM kit...
...which should work but is a bit $$$ when adding in a new/rebuilt alternator.
Y'all jump in here with your 2 cents...
George Dill
To add to George. Mechman.com will custom machine me an AC Delco 100-140 singlewire to work with the B18.The word on Turbobricks is I can drill out the lower mount on the 100amp Bosch from a 960 and it will mount right up, but I am not sure if that is true for the 68 manifold which is a little lower.
Reading through this...http://www.volvoamazonpictures....html
...and this...
http://www.volvoamazonpictures....html
...it appears that the B18B in volvostud's P220 wagon does indeed have an "ear" cast into the block to accomodate an alternator. This feature appeared first in the '67 123GT (with alternator).
This "ear" and the existing "double-hump" manifold present a different picture when attempting to install an alternator with a pulley that will align perfectly with the existing crank and fan pulleys.
George Dill
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote