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    1. #36
      Junior Member tilley's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by tilley View Post


      I didn't think I could take the key apart while stuck in the dash. I'll have a look at my spare to see how it comes apart. Good thought.
      Just tried taking apart the spare as a test. The bottom half of the key remains attached to the part that is inside the SCU, so same 'width' problem.
      2005 S40 T5 AWD M6

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    3. #37
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      Quote Originally Posted by tilley View Post
      I'm told by several Volvo dealers that (at least) upto MY 2005, they are plug and play.

      Touchy DIY....how to take apart a dash and tamper with an ignition switch....
      I don't think its *that* touchy, as it does not bypass the immob. Removing and installing SCU won't allow someone to "hot-wire" the car.
      2005 Volvo V50 T5 AWD 6 Speed

    4. #38
      The three wires on the top of the SCU power the antenna that recognizes your key chip. The bottom connector is what powers the solenoid. The SCU is plug and play. You dont need to reprogram anything. I explain the proess for removing the SCU in a thread called car wont start. I ended up taking my SCU apart and cleaning the contacts and when I put it together it worked fine. I did lock my key in the ignition when I was testing because I didnt have power to the SCU. Without power, the solenoid cannot retract the piston that locks the key from returing to position 0.

      Quote Originally Posted by tilley View Post
      I wasn't under there for anything, but a connector may have come loose. Thanks.



      Thanks, good info on how the mechanical aspect works. I might try this as a last resort (forcing out). I have already purchased a replacement SCU for $200 CDN (including discounts)+tax = $230



      I didn't think I could take the key apart while stuck in the dash. I'll have a look at my spare to see how it comes apart. Good thought.

      slrising, what was the source for your SCU diagram? I understand that the SCU has changed over the years. For what model year is it? Also, any thoughts on whether my car battery should be connected when I play with powers/grounds at pins? There is another 3-pin connector at the 'top' of the SCU (labelled pins 1, 2, 3). Perhaps this connector provides some basic power to the unit that enables certain functions (see A:1 & A:3 on the diagram?).
      2005 S40 2.4i Manual

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    6. #39
      Quote Originally Posted by tilley View Post
      slrising, what was the source for your SCU diagram? I understand that the SCU has changed over the years. For what model year is it? Also, any thoughts on whether my car battery should be connected when I play with powers/grounds at pins? There is another 3-pin connector at the 'top' of the SCU (labelled pins 1, 2, 3). Perhaps this connector provides some basic power to the unit that enables certain functions (see A:1 & A:3 on the diagram?).
      Mathew's volvo site has wiring diagrams from Volvo the wiring diagram is listed as S40 04- so there should be no change between the years in the SCU. You will definatly need the battery connect to provide the 12v no point in jumpering contacts together without power.

      I believe the circuit works like this.

      1.) Supply voltage comes in on B:7 (30) no question here this is power for the SCU. If you purchase a cheap multimeter this will aid in identifying which pins are what. You should see 12V or more here the diagrams say 30V but realistically that isn't gonna happen.
      2.) With supply votage present the key in switch and the inhibit circuit should be functional, when you insert a key the key in switch will close the inhibit circuit will remain active at all times but gets overroad by a properly paired key (registered to the car).
      3.) with the key in switch closed this engergizes B:5 and B:6, B:5 goes to CEM to tell it to expect the signal from the PATS module (passive anti-theft system) this is the RFID reader (induces a voltage into the RFID chip at the tip of the key to pull the coded info from it for checking in the CEM.
      4.) Upon a successfull key pairing the CEM disables the immobilizer and allows position 2 (not certain of this) and 3 of the key switch to function to allow the car to start.

      With all this said I highly doubt an electrical failure is the reason the key can't be removed simply because regardless of if the correct voltages are present this wouldn't prevent the switch from rotating, worst case scenerio with an electrical failure would be the fuse blows when you rotate the key to position zero. I'm guessing a mechanical failure of the key lock (ball and pusher mechanism) is what is preventing the key from coming out.

      Maybe there is someway to disassemble the SCU with it in place to allow the key to be removed?
      2009 V50 T5 AWD GT: Work in progress: (1) (2) (3) (4) (5)
      Previous rides: (1) (2)

    7. #40
      I've been having this issue happening randomly the past few days, but my key will turn all the way past position I and just get stuck right before it hits position 0. Now it's making me nervous as in about two weeks I am driving from Texas back home to Michigan and it would just be my luck it would get stuck and I couldn't lock the car or anything.

    8. #41
      Junior Member tilley's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Spoilsmacker View Post
      I've been having this issue happening randomly the past few days, but my key will turn all the way past position I and just get stuck right before it hits position 0. Now it's making me nervous as in about two weeks I am driving from Texas back home to Michigan and it would just be my luck it would get stuck and I couldn't lock the car or anything.
      Mine simply failed with no advance warning. I couldn't turn the key all the way to '0'. Had to disconnect the battery anytime I left the car for more than a couple of hours. Make sure everything is OFF if you're leaving battery connected (radio, fan, instrument lights dimmed fully). Carry a 10mm socket and socket wrench around with you for the battery terminal, drape a scarf over the dash and key area, then manually lock each door. Use the metal key insert to unlock the drivers door when you need to.

      After two weeks of driving around like this, this past weekend I had made some push-on connectors to try the B:7/B:8 trick mentioned above to release they key (with car battery connected), but as I was pulling the 'B' connector out, I heard that familiar solenoid type noise, then saw my helper holding the key! It seems wiggling the 'B' connector did enough to make contacts and release the key. I still didn't trust the old unit and since I had a replacement handy, I proceeded to replace it anyway. Not a fun job almost forcing the old part out, then the new one in. Despite now having 'experience' at doing this, I would seriously consider taking it to the dealer next time.

      If you do get stuck between '0' and '1', somewhere far from home, wiggling the connector might help, but then again, once the key is out you might not be able to get it back in again to start the car (this was my biggest concern). To gain access to be able to wiggle the connector, you have to remove some of the lower dashboard panels.
      2005 S40 T5 AWD M6

    9. #42
      Junior Member IRON_MIKE's Avatar
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      Damn it. It's starting to happen to me. This thread is 6 years old. Any new advice and/or tips?

    10. #43
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
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      Replace the ignition switch as soon as possible. Tapping the key in toward the dash will sometimes free it up. You don't want the key stuck as you'll ruin it getting the ignition out of the dash.
      2007 V70 5 Speed
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    11. #44
      Junior Member IRON_MIKE's Avatar
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      How's everybody getting access to the ignition switch? I couldn't find a write up for it but it looks like you have to take apart the whole dash board.

    12. #45
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
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      2007 V70 5 Speed
      2005 S40 2.4i 5 Speed

      1995 855 5 Speed SOLD

    13. #46
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      Quote Originally Posted by IRON_MIKE View Post
      How's everybody getting access to the ignition switch? I couldn't find a write up for it but it looks like you have to take apart the whole dash board.
      Not the whole dash but enough to get to the 3 torx holding the scu in. You'll need a micro ratchet to get it done. With the key stuck in the ignition you can't remove the scu and key as a unit


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      2005 V50 T5 AWD M66

    14. #47
      Junior Member 80sGuy's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by IRON_MIKE View Post
      How's everybody getting access to the ignition switch? I couldn't find a write up for it but it looks like you have to take apart the whole dash board.
      Apparently Volvo has got some serious problems with its ignition/key system. I just been through some 'key fob' issues a few weeks ago. You guys can read about it on another thread if you seek it. I pray that this will not happen to me ever as I am already fed up with key-related issues! Here's a video tutorial of how to deal with the ignition switch.


    15. #48
      This appears to happen to me intermittently, but I need the time and $ to do it.

      In the meantime, if I can't turn the key to pos 0 (i.e. stuck at pos I), turning it to pos II and pressing the brake allows me to turn it to pos 0 and remove it. No idea why that works.
      07 V50 T5 AWD | E46 Bi-xenon w/ KBOWE | Projector Info

    16. #49
      Junior Member IRON_MIKE's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by mercdude View Post
      Not the whole dash but enough to get to the 3 torx holding the scu in. You'll need a micro ratchet to get it done. With the key stuck in the ignition you can't remove the scu and key as a unit


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      The key is stuck in there...what now? Break the key in pieces? lol I can't help but laugh and cry at how outrageous this seems to me right now.

      Thanks for the video and the advice everybody. I appreciate it guys.

    17. #50
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      Let me save you the suspense: yes, break the key off if you cannot get it to release from the ignition. Sounds crazy but there's no other physical way to get enough room behind the dash pad to clear the key. I know because I tried and ended up doing a bit of cosmetic damage to the pad + I had to break off the key anyways! Just a cluster.


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      2005 V50 T5 AWD M66

    18. #51
      Junior Member IRON_MIKE's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by mercdude View Post
      Let me save you the suspense: yes, break the key off if you cannot get it to release from the ignition. Sounds crazy but there's no other physical way to get enough room behind the dash pad to clear the key. I know because I tried and ended up doing a bit of cosmetic damage to the pad + I had to break off the key anyways! Just a cluster.


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      F***ing.Fantastic.

      On the flip side, I literally (3 min. ago) just bought a used switch from Ebay and it has the key intact. Can I hook up the ignition switch prior to installing to save the key?

    19. #52
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
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      Not sure what you mean by this statement but I wouldn't give up so quickly. Check this thread to see how the ignition switch itself comes apart. You might be able to access the rear with finesse or brute force means & release the two key retaining tabs. Challenge Accepted.
      2007 V70 5 Speed
      2005 S40 2.4i 5 Speed

      1995 855 5 Speed SOLD

    20. #53
      Junior Member IRON_MIKE's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by pczeilon View Post
      Not sure what you mean by this statement but I wouldn't give up so quickly. Check this thread to see how the ignition switch itself comes apart. You might be able to access the rear with finesse or brute force means & release the two key retaining tabs. Challenge Accepted.

      http://www.ebay.com/itm/272610299650...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    21. #54
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      No way it'll come out, I even tried to dremel some areas out so it'd slip out - just no way. I think auto dismantlers pull the entire dash and then remove the key/switch unit. Obviously you can't do that with the dash still installed.


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      2005 V50 T5 AWD M66

    22. #55
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
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      I know you want to save $$ but that old switch has been superseded several times. It's not a job you want to repeat. Yes, you are going to have to release the "new" old key from the used switch before you can install it. One of those wires isn't very long. That may be a challenge in itself. You can always remove the T6s on the back to release the tabs though.
      2007 V70 5 Speed
      2005 S40 2.4i 5 Speed

      1995 855 5 Speed SOLD

    23. #56
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      Agreed, this is NOT a job that you want to repeat


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      2005 V50 T5 AWD M66

    24. #57
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by mercdude View Post
      No way it'll come out, I even tried to dremel some areas out so it'd slip out - just no way. I think auto dismantlers pull the entire dash and then remove the key/switch unit. Obviously you can't do that with the dash still installed.


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      I know you can't Dremel the housing enough to slip through but can you Dremel/pry/pliers the rear cover off to access the release tabs for the key? It's been many years since I did mine & can't remember exactly what it was like back there.
      2007 V70 5 Speed
      2005 S40 2.4i 5 Speed

      1995 855 5 Speed SOLD

    25. #58
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      There's only about 1.5" of clearance, just enough to get a micro ratchet in there - I can't imagine you could pop those clips off, which are on really tight


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      2005 V50 T5 AWD M66

    26. #59
      Junior Member 80sGuy's Avatar
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      Now ain't that a byatch?

    27. #60
      I have a photo of the underside of a dashboard if you want to see all of the screw mounting points and where it snaps in. It's a relatively simple job to remove, albeit a bit time consuming. At the very least give you an idea of how to get some more room to swap the switches.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha 10:1 Pistons; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    28. #61
      Junior Member IRON_MIKE's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      I have a photo of the underside of a dashboard if you want to see all of the screw mounting points and where it snaps in. It's a relatively simple job to remove, albeit a bit time consuming. At the very least give you an idea of how to get some more room to swap the switches.
      Yes, please.

    29. #62
      Direct link for the HQ photo so you can zoom in and see better: http://i.imgur.com/4gurQXd.jpg
      Basically the screws are in the front and the standard bodywork snap ins are in the backside.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha 10:1 Pistons; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

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