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Finally Upgraded The Front Brakes Last Night

65K views 143 replies 37 participants last post by  StealthyS60R 
#1 ·
Now that the old 106K+ mile rotors are toast, I got around to a few upgrades last night. :cool:

Right side dust boots are toast so I'm gonna need to track down a set and replace them later before any crap can get in there.

New Brembo Goodness:










Old Badness:






The Transformation:








 
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#7 ·
Now that you have gold calipers and drilled and slotted rotors it's time to lower it... Your becoming less stealthy so now it's all or nothing...
 
#8 · (Edited)
New Brembo Goodness:


]
Nice stelty!! let me know how them rotors hold up on factory pads how is the stoping. does the brake pettle get all stiff and nasty like it does with full after market pads and rotors.?
And to ever one else HAY I TAUGHT FRONT PADS WERE NOT MADE BY BREMBO!!!!!!!
I wish a MFer would!!!!!!!!!
If i cauld rember ever one of your names id call you out but oo well i cant remember
I will start remembering soon enouff ladys
 
#10 · (Edited)
Those are the cracked boots on the extra hot side. The right brake seems to have gotten hotter than the left due to all the hard braking into the turns on a counter clockwise track.

Pistons still move nicely so I know the pistons and seals are ok, just need to replace the dust boots when I have a chance so no crud gets in there to mess anything up.

Pedal is a lot stiffer, but I think that has to do with the pistons being shoved all the way back into the caliper. Great feel with the factory (Jurid) pads on the new rotors. Trying to decide if I will do my next track event with factory pads or if I will pop in a set of racing pads when I have some extra hot braking planned.
 
#12 ·
Stealthy, how thin were your old rotors?
 
#14 ·
I can't remember the exact # but they were right at spec before the event. I'm pretty sure they are under spec now.

Still have the stock lines and they look just fine, so no upgrades there until they are needed.
 
#13 ·
Can't see any pics @ work, but I assume you have SS brake lines? If not, this is a must-do.
 
#15 ·
No it's not.
My brakes are perfect at track days with Ferodo DS2500 pads, TiSpeed shims, Motul 600, backing plates removed, and everything else stock.
 
#16 ·
I did remove the backing plates and will most likely pick me up a set of higher performance pads for track days now.

Will also be using some of my Stealthy sheet metal fabrication magic to create a nice set of air scoops for under the a-arms to redirect some of the under car air to the rotors as well.
 
#19 ·
Which rotors are those? Powerslot?
 
#20 ·
And to ever one else HAY I TAUGHT FRONT PADS WERE NOT MADE BY BREMBO!!!!!!!
I wish a MFer would!!!!!!!!!
If i cauld rember ever one of your names id call you out but oo well i cant remember
I will start remembering soon enouff ladys

I guess I will have to consider myself called out, because I will again go on record stating that "Brembo" pads, are not made by Brembo for our Volvos. They are made by Jurid, who has been an OEM supplier to Volvo for as many years as I can remember.

It is no different than our "Volvo" marked plugs that are made by Bosch.

Unless it has changed within the last few years Brembo does not make any brake pads. They of course make brake systems, they were an OEM supplier on my '97 Dodge Dakota for example, just not pads.

Bottom line it does not make any difference who makes them, I remain a fan of the OEM Brembo/Jurid pads.

http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt290/justsam/Volvo/IMG_0775.jpg?t=1278375208
 
#24 ·
Be sure to share with us how they feel compared to stock rotors. They look absolutely awesome!!! :cool:

And 3 lbs savings (24 vs. 21 lbs.) for each rotor (compared to OEM) is a good thing!

Also $147.50 each compares quite favorably to OEM price of $135 at IPD or $161 each at the Volvo dealer.
 
#31 ·
Cross drilled rotors may crack under hard braking no matter it was casted with the holes or drilled afterward.
But it will have better cooling efficiency than slotted.
Slotted rotors are kinda best of both worlds.
It has better cooling efficiency than plain rotor but more durable than cross drilled.
Even though plain rotors have slightly more surface area than cross drilled or slotted.
The headsink will kill the braking performance more than the gain on the slightly more surface area.
Also each 1lb lighter on the wheels equals 1 more whp gain not to mention the lighter weight.
 
#32 ·
J-velocity beat me to it, but the advantages of cross drilling are for both cooling the rotors and pad surfaces, the only downside is stress cracks but usually by the time they get bad enough to be a real concern its time for new rotors anyways.

Slots and crossdrilling do slightly reduce the pad contact area, but big brakes like the brembos have some excess in that area already to where once again the extra cooling factor more than makes up for the slight loss.

If I wasn't planning on regularily tracking my car the cross-drilled rotors would have been a bit excessive, slots would have been good enough for the street and the occasional auto-x.

For those that think the pros don't outweigh the cons, go find me a single set of race car rotors that are not cross-drilled.
 
#38 ·
Excuses, excuses, excuses. Nascar runs on road courses too, and they NEVER use drilled brakes. The F1 rotor is most definitely not carbon, so what is it? Aluminum?? lol. What would that matter anyway since you think cross drilled rotors are superior. FIA GT cars don't use drilled brakes either. In fact I can think of any sanctioned racing series that has cars with cross drilled rotors.

You're not going to believe me, so give a tech at Stoptech a call and ask them which of their rotor options (drilled, slotted or blank) they recommend for track use.
 
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