What Battery Group for a 2007 V50 T5
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    1. #1
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      What Battery Group for a 2007 V50 T5

      My battery is starting to loose its charge if I park the car for a few days so I think after 3 years it is starting to die.

      I can't figure out what the battery group should be. It measures 12.5 in long 7 in wide and 7.5 in high.

      So the length is the same as a Group 92 battery, The height is the same as a Group 48 Battery and the width is the same as 48, 91 or 92 battery. Most web sites tell me 91 but a group 91 would be a full 1.5 in too short.

      Does anyone know what the group type should be for my car?

    2. #2
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      Stupid manual , stupid auto parts stores , stupid battery companies. Stupid internet. None of them had the correct battery size for a Volvo V50.

      I went to Wallmart measured up a few batteries and found the exact match was a group 94R (or H7).

      (Remember everything you read on the Internet is True ( I read that on the Internet)

    3. #3
      Member EngTech's Avatar
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      Arrow

      Quote Originally Posted by VictorVDC View Post
      Stupid manual , stupid auto parts stores , stupid battery companies. Stupid internet. None of them had the correct battery size for a Volvo V50.

      I went to Wallmart measured up a few batteries and found the exact match was a group 94R (or H7).

      (Remember everything you read on the Internet is True ( I read that on the Internet)
      Walmart Battery are Filled with Electrolyte from the Get Go and Stored on a Shelve - for 6-9 months -( You just Lost 6-9 Months of that batteries Life )
      Further If You are Planning on Keeping the Volvo , get a Dry Cell and Loose 8 Lbs. or so -

      My 2 Cents /
      ** V50 AWD - Handling & Performance Tweaks = New Stance / VW CC - Handling Tweaks - Testing & Porting - Intake Mods
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    4. #4
      Member volvoNB's Avatar
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      I just replaced my battery again. Mine seem to last 2-2.5 years. My OEM died in 2.5 years. The one I bought from Costco lasted 2 years and 2 months. I had to get one at AutoZone this time because Costco didn't have the size I needed. I bought Battery fitment code 48. Fits just right. I had a 40R in my car before but the 48 is much better. It has a 700CCA instead of 590. I should have read this post and tried for a 94R. It looks like it has an even higher CCA.

      So the battery codes that fit our cars:
      * 94R
      * 48
      * 40R


      Reference to an old battery thread:
      http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?103194

    5. #5
      Fitment in our battery tray/box is pretty crucial. I get annoyed when a customer comes in with these janky batteries that they want me to make fit. The volvo batteries from the dealer are fairly fresh, we do so many that they usually never sit for more than a month and since we can get them the next day (thru interstate truck) we generally order them day before the car comes in.

      Plus you get a warranty and pro-rate if it dies prematurely. My stock battery in my 06 is still good and thats with about 66K on it. Firm believer in that if you take care of the battery it shouldnt fail other than a manufacture defect. Letting the battery die and requiring a recharge is murder on your battery. If its going to sit longer than a few days I would buy a trickle charger.
      TheRetrofitSource | 2020 Motorsports | RTernie | H&R Springs | Import Meet | Girodisc

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    6. #6
      KYLE - I agree, my '06 S40 was picked up June 28th of 2005, so it's over five yrs old, over 110,000 miles and still on the factory battery. And I haven't even cleaned the battery terminals. I know certain geographic areas are harder on batteries than others, everyone thinks winter & cold weather kills batteries, and it does, but miseable boiling heat is worse on them. VOLVONB must be from Arizona or New Mexico. Only 2-1/2 yrs from a battery?

    7. #7
      Junior Member Stuvo's Avatar
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      I have a coming up on 4.5 yrs OEM 700 CCA battery and have never checked the fluid level. Should I or can I? It's buried under the strut bar. Never worried about it because I figuired if I have to I'll just bump start it.

    8. #8
      Member SiCkEsTC30's Avatar
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      I know Ford and Chevy have some killer warranties on their batteries not sure about volvo. I think my dad has a 10 year on his vette battery and my mom has like 6 or 7 in her mustang
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    9. #9
      Member volvoNB's Avatar
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      Texas does get pretty hot at times. I don't do anything unusual. Drive to work and drive home mostly. The car is in covered parking at work and in the garage at home. Maybe my alternator is bad/weak.

    10. #10
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      Quote Originally Posted by EngTech View Post
      Walmart Battery are Filled with Electrolyte from the Get Go and Stored on a Shelve - for 6-9 months -( You just Lost 6-9 Months of that batteries Life )
      Further If You are Planning on Keeping the Volvo , get a Dry Cell and Loose 8 Lbs. or so -

      My 2 Cents /
      Battery's last 20 to 50 years in a controlled environment with no cycling compared to 2 to 7 years in a car depending on how hot your summer is. So 6-9 months of shelf time is not equivalent to loosing that much usage time.

    11. #11
      Junior Member dbf73's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ForceFed Motorsports View Post
      Fitment in our battery tray/box is pretty crucial. I get annoyed when a customer comes in with these janky batteries that they want me to make fit. The volvo batteries from the dealer are fairly fresh, we do so many that they usually never sit for more than a month and since we can get them the next day (thru interstate truck) we generally order them day before the car comes in. Plus you get a warranty and pro-rate if it dies prematurely.
      Are you using Volvo batteries or Interstate or are they the same? Which size

    12. #12
      Member m4gician's Avatar
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      Hey guys,

      My OEM 700 cca volvo battery failed me while I was listening to the radio in the parking lot. The battery, having died and with winter coming on, I didn't want to risk it so I found this thread.

      This thread needs a sticky.

      All 3 sizes, 94r, 48 and 40r all work and fit. My best value was an interstate 730cca 48 battery at $150 vs. $200 for a volvo 700cca battery oem.

      The 48 is a bit shorter, but the metal battery tie down under the hood will hold it in place with a good tightening of the 10mm bolt.

      You do have to undo the ground wire for the battery and remove the cover to pull the battery out. Not bad. Did it outside the interstate shop.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD - Metallic Silver 426 - ELEVATE Stage I Tune - ELEVATE AWD Lowering Springs - ELEVATE Rear Sway Bar - ELEVATE Rear Camber Arms - ELEVATE Turbo Pipe - VIVA Performance Front Strut Bar - EuroSportTuning Drop-in Filter - Volvo 18' Medusa Wheels - Volvo R-Design Steering Wheel - Full LED Conversion
      Former: 2002 S40 1.9T

    13. #13
      Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      It turns out there are three different capacities installed in these models, depending on what type of sound or nav system installed:
      - for a car fitted with Premium Sound *or* a Nav, the 94R/H7 battery is correct.
      - for cars with High Performance sound, I'm not sure but I think it's likely H7 as well.
      - for cars with standard sound, there is a spacer at the front of the battery tray, and an extension on the positive cable. The battery for these cars is 48/H6.

      My car, a 2005 V50 with standard sound, had a factory H6-ish battery with 520CCA. The replacement Walmart H6 has 730CCA, for $99.87. It was 1/2" taller and required some modification to the holddown bracket. Fits perfectly otherwise.

      An H7 would fit, but would require removing the spacer and stretching the positive cable forward. With the better fit and only 50 less CCA, I opted for the H6.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD 6MT w/Heico tune, Heico exhaust, Bell intercooler, IPD TCV, Viva CBV, Elevate rear swaybar, Snabb shift kit, etc.
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    14. #14
      Member m4gician's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by tmtalpey View Post
      It turns out there are three different capacities installed in these models, depending on what type of sound or nav system installed:
      - for a car fitted with Premium Sound *or* a Nav, the 94R/H7 battery is correct.
      - for cars with High Performance sound, I'm not sure but I think it's likely H7 as well.
      - for cars with standard sound, there is a spacer at the front of the battery tray, and an extension on the positive cable. The battery for these cars is 48/H6.

      My car, a 2005 V50 with standard sound, had a factory H6-ish battery with 520CCA. The replacement Walmart H6 has 730CCA, for $99.87. It was 1/2" taller and required some modification to the holddown bracket. Fits perfectly otherwise.

      An H7 would fit, but would require removing the spacer and stretching the positive cable forward. With the better fit and only 50 less CCA, I opted for the H6.
      Perfect. Regardless of size, I went with CCA. The higher the CCA the better starting performance I'm going to get in the dead of winter.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD - Metallic Silver 426 - ELEVATE Stage I Tune - ELEVATE AWD Lowering Springs - ELEVATE Rear Sway Bar - ELEVATE Rear Camber Arms - ELEVATE Turbo Pipe - VIVA Performance Front Strut Bar - EuroSportTuning Drop-in Filter - Volvo 18' Medusa Wheels - Volvo R-Design Steering Wheel - Full LED Conversion
      Former: 2002 S40 1.9T

    15. #15
      Member Evolv0's Avatar
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      i still have my stock battery, i purchase my car new in september of 2009 and i now have 51K on her. even on cold starts in the 14F winter, it starts right up no problem
      MOTOR; K&N intake tube, BSR Heat shield/ECU mount, Samco silicone intake pipe, Upgraded Trannymount, EST Downpipe, Magnaflow 3" muffler, Mountune intake manifold, Bell FMIC, Phuzzy HD TCV, Forge CBV, IPD HD coilpacks, Bosch 70mm Throttlebody.
      SUSPENSION; KWv2 Coilovers, EST strut brace, Elevate rear sway bar, SPC camber arms.
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    16. #16

      my experience

      searching for battery sizes and options and ruling out Alternator, I came across this discussion. My experience is this: 2008 V50 suddenly stopped starting (didn't leave the lights on or have any other power drain on the Volvo Battery replaced 9/10), of course key stuck in ignition until you get some power to the battery, had to use the metal key insert to release the transmission for the first time to put the car in N to push it back to my truck for a jump.

      car would run after being jumped but even after being driven for 20-30 mins would not maintain a charge and wouldn't restart. Battery would be at 10v after trying to start, and I would see 13.98v when the car was running at the battery terminals. The only reason I put this out here is because between the forums and "answers" pages there is a lot of bad info and my evaluation sequence is pretty typical of a cell going out and needing a new battery. (Buy a $20 multimeter, it pays for itself).

      To reiterate what tmtalpey said in January, I got the Everstart Maxx H6 (730cca) for $100 rather than the suggested H7 (790cca) $130 because is was cheaper and if you have the low end sound system the battery that comes stock (520cca) is shorter and there is a spacer in the front of the battery compartment that sets it up for an H6 sized battery. Only issue is I had to find a spacer (such as a thick-ish 1/2" nut) to bring the securing strap up approx 3/4" so the strap could be flattened with artistic hammering and pulled across the slightly higher profiled Maxx sufficiently to put the opposite side 10mm nut on. Kind of a pain but the cover still snapped on fine.

      interestingly the H6's on the shelf at Walmart had 2 and 3/13 stickers while the H7's were all 9-11/12. Wonder what eats up all the H6's.

      Unfortunately someone reading this probably is in a situation where their Volvo battery has already been compromised to the point that saying check the water levels is pretty useless. I found one cell to be low in my bad Volvo battery. Wish I had thought to check before I had problems.

      Anyway, having to fight to get a battery to fit in a little car makes me hark back to having a 1000cca Everready in my 1970 Dodge A100 that was one of the few vehicles that would start on -40F days in Minnesota. Of course I had to spend all day jump starting my friend Chevy Crapaliers.

    17. #17
      Member AutoGeek's Avatar
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      My original battery was replaced due to a leak in 2008 with an OEM battery when I bought the car as a CPO. That battery now has nearly 5 years and 100K miles on it. Still going strong.
      Stan
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    18. #18
      Junior Member TurbineWagon's Avatar
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      06 V50 with 72k and still rocking the OEM. Will probably replace it with the same. 6+yrs out of a $200 battery ain't bad at all.
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    19. #19
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      If you want to convert from the type-48 to the larger type 94R, your positive cable will be pushed forward. Turns out you can replace that portion of the cable (Volvo calls it a "shoe").

      The "Short Shoe" (for using the 94R battery) is part #30656851

      The "Long Shoe" (for using the 48 battery) is part #30656853

    20. #20
      Member TG's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by beernose View Post
      If you want to convert from the type-48 to the larger type 94R, your positive cable will be pushed forward. Turns out you can replace that portion of the cable (Volvo calls it a "shoe").

      The "Short Shoe" (for using the 94R battery) is part #30656851

      The "Long Shoe" (for using the 48 battery) is part #30656853
      Yup, that's exactly what I did . . . though admittedly It was more of a troubleshoot at the time
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC |Elevate intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |TKI front end-links |Elevate tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

    21. #21
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      Quote Originally Posted by TG View Post
      Yup, that's exactly what I did . . . though admittedly It was more of a troubleshoot at the time
      I have kids who like to sit in the car and listen to the radio while I coach soccer games. I wanted that extra reserve capacity of the 94R. Though it comes with an extra 5lbs in lead and acid weight too.

    22. #22
      Member FosgateLife's Avatar
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      I know that an XS power D2400 fits in our spot perfectly. Lol but i dont think thats our battery group

    23. #23
      Member TG's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by beernose View Post
      I have kids who like to sit in the car and listen to the radio while I coach soccer games. I wanted that extra reserve capacity of the 94R. Though it comes with an extra 5lbs in lead and acid weight too.
      I tell you what, you're a lot smarter than I was that day I looked for a battery ... I got caught up in cold cranking power and never thought of the extra weight... Oh well...
      T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC |Elevate intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |TKI front end-links |Elevate tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |

    24. #24
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      After 125,000 miles, my factory battery was starting to go out (can you believe it lasted that long?). When looking at replacements I ran into an issue with finding the right battery for my 2005 S40. Since I couldn't find the battery for my car (and being a car-guy), I decided to install the biggest battery I could get into my car! This gave me the ability to install the battery for the premium sound system (H7) to replace my smaller factory battery (H5).

      In my search for information, I found this thread the most informative piece of information about how to put an H7 battery in an S40. What isn't mentioned above is that the battery strap also needs to be replaced.

      To swap to a H7 battery, you need:

      1. Remove the spacer in battery tray
      2. Replace the pole shoe with Part # 30656851-0
      3. Replace Battery Strap (Brace) with Part # 8676469-3










      NOTE: We don't sell the parts listed. Don't ask. But if you want a timing belt, wiper blades, brakes, or something else, just click the link in my signature
      Last edited by Garrett@OSCARO; 09-23-2013 at 04:13 PM.

    25. #25
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      Thanks Garret! I had to tweak my factory bracket to fit the battery, but I thought that was only necessary because I bought a non-Volvo replacement.

      I'll be ordering the new bracket because I'm not fully satisfied with my bracket mods.

      PS: I'm not a fan of the "Everstart" batteries....... there's a reason we refer to them as "Neverstarts". Keep the receipt. I hope you wont need it, but experience tells me you will

    26. #26
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      Quote Originally Posted by beernose View Post
      PS: I'm not a fan of the "Everstart" batteries....... there's a reason we refer to them as "Neverstarts". Keep the receipt. I hope you wont need it, but experience tells me you will
      Thanks for the heads up. I'll keep the receipt and pay close attention to this one. I hope this one has the performance of my other everystart batteries and not the performance you've experienced. Do you have one you would recommend?

      I bought it because this will be the 5th Everstart batteries in my cars (all the others are a Johnson Controls-made 27DC-12). Thus far, I only had one go out. It was 10 years old, and I ran it down to 5v from a bad alternator.

      But do note, I have strangely good luck with batteries. My factory battery lasted me 8 years and 125k miles!

      EDIT: I just did some research, and it looks like Johnson Controls (Varta) is the factory supplier of batteries to Volvo. Chances are my everstart battery is the same as what the dealer would sell me.

      http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...ERSTATE-MTP-H6
      Last edited by Garrett@OSCARO; 09-23-2013 at 04:41 PM.

    27. #27
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      You're correct. I found many years ago when I bought a replacement battery for my '99 V70XC that only a couple suppliers made the battery and that they were all essentially the same (though it costed a relative small fortune).

      Local auto store had the big battery for my V50 at $169. I went to local Farm and Fleet and picked up same one (84 month, also made by Johnson Controls) for $89 plus a rebate. I looked them both over and the ONLY difference was the decal on the battery representing the brand.

    28. #28
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      Hi All. Just wanted to add another battery to the list. Like others I went through all kinds of gyrations (2005 S40 T5 no premium sound.) Lots of sources called for the H7 but mine was clearly the H5. Wal-Mart had an H5 but, as a poster above indicated, that required slight modification to the hold down strap. I'd have been tempted to upgrade parts (strap and pole shoe) for the H7 but, to be honest, I see no reason for all that hoopla (at least where I live, and the OEM battery gave me 8 years and was less CCA's than this new one.)

      Batteries Plus sold me a Duracell Procell Gold- Model # SLI91T6M - for $120.00. They also do the install (I stood there and watched as I'm funny about folks tinkering w/ my car- they took good care.) Anyway it's 700 CCA and it's a direct fit- no issues whatsoever...same dimensions as my OEM H5. It's also not a "maintenance free" battery, so one can check the water levels in it periodically. Hope this helps-
      Last edited by EricV; 11-13-2013 at 02:20 PM.

    29. #29
      Member m4gician's Avatar
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      I want to add a battery to the list. I spent $150 on an interstate battery. Costco (Johnson Controls) has it for $80. GO with Costco. Free replacement within 3 years of use.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD - Metallic Silver 426 - ELEVATE Stage I Tune - ELEVATE AWD Lowering Springs - ELEVATE Rear Sway Bar - ELEVATE Rear Camber Arms - ELEVATE Turbo Pipe - VIVA Performance Front Strut Bar - EuroSportTuning Drop-in Filter - Volvo 18' Medusa Wheels - Volvo R-Design Steering Wheel - Full LED Conversion
      Former: 2002 S40 1.9T

    30. #30
      Quote Originally Posted by TG View Post
      I tell you what, you're a lot smarter than I was that day I looked for a battery ... I got caught up in cold cranking power and never thought of the extra weight... Oh well...
      Why would you be bothered by 5 extra pounds of weight added? Seems negligible for the total weight, and type of car. you can probably remove junk for inside the car that would total 5 pounds...

    31. #31
      Junior Member mf70's Avatar
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      Just an update on costs: as of 2014, Herb Gordon wants $199.00 for a Volvo branded battery. I went for Pep Boys' offer of $199 for a Bosch AGM battery, minus a 10% sale discount, mainly because they were closer. DieHard also offers AGM in the H7 size for ~$40 less.
      Last edited by mf70; 04-11-2014 at 10:15 AM.
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    32. #32
      I'm lazy and didn't read the whole post, but it depends on what your car has for options. My '05 V50 T5 awd uses a $120 Volvo battery and not the larger $175+ size.
      Logan

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    33. #33
      Member Jonxy's Avatar
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      it all depends on what audio system your car came with.

      i have the premium sound and need the larger battery(mines a 2.4i)

      diehard has 2 nice batteries , $135 for a 765cca DieHard Gold Automotive Battery
      and $150 for a 800cca DieHard Advanced Gold AGM Battery .

      both come with 3 year replacement only the Advanced Gold comes with additional 2 years prorated

      also fyi, battery dimentions:

      H7 (94R) 12-3/8 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5
      H6 (48) 10-15/16 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5
      h5 6.94 x 12.44 x 7.5

      edit: seems those prices are on a current sale, so if you need one get one now :P
      Last edited by Jonxy; 04-11-2014 at 11:22 AM.
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    34. #34
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      I got mine from local Farm and Fleet store. 84 month battery. 910cca, $90 regular price. I got it when it was on sale for $84.

      That's for the larger size option. They had the smaller one too for same price.


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    35. #35
      Member AutoGeek's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by AutoGeek View Post
      My original battery was replaced due to a leak in 2008 with an OEM battery when I bought the car as a CPO. That battery now has nearly 5 years and 100K miles on it. Still going strong.
      Stan
      Finally had to replace my genuine Volvo battery after 6.5 years and about 125K miles. Sears had a 15% off sale and I cashed my Sears points and got a DieHard Advanced Gold AGM Group 94R rated for 800 CCA. It fit perfect and the car starts perfect now. For years I had an issue where the starter would ofter start to spin, stop and then continue; like it had a high spot. Now it spins right up and starts the car.
      Stan
      2005 V50 T5: IPD Rear Sway Bar, Koni Sport (Yellow) front and rear

      1998 V70 NA - Sold, 2002 S40 1.9T - R.I.P.

      Remember kids, Speed doesn't kill ... impact does!