My battery is starting to loose its charge if I park the car for a few days so I think after 3 years it is starting to die.
I can't figure out what the battery group should be. It measures 12.5 in long 7 in wide and 7.5 in high.
So the length is the same as a Group 92 battery, The height is the same as a Group 48 Battery and the width is the same as 48, 91 or 92 battery. Most web sites tell me 91 but a group 91 would be a full 1.5 in too short.
Does anyone know what the group type should be for my car?
Walmart Battery are Filled with Electrolyte from the Get Go and Stored on a Shelve - for 6-9 months -( You just Lost 6-9 Months of that batteries Life )
Further If You are Planning on Keeping the Volvo , get a Dry Cell and Loose 8 Lbs. or so -
I just replaced my battery again. Mine seem to last 2-2.5 years. My OEM died in 2.5 years. The one I bought from Costco lasted 2 years and 2 months. I had to get one at AutoZone this time because Costco didn't have the size I needed. I bought Battery fitment code 48. Fits just right. I had a 40R in my car before but the 48 is much better. It has a 700CCA instead of 590. I should have read this post and tried for a 94R. It looks like it has an even higher CCA.
So the battery codes that fit our cars:
* 94R
* 48
* 40R
Fitment in our battery tray/box is pretty crucial. I get annoyed when a customer comes in with these janky batteries that they want me to make fit. The volvo batteries from the dealer are fairly fresh, we do so many that they usually never sit for more than a month and since we can get them the next day (thru interstate truck) we generally order them day before the car comes in.
Plus you get a warranty and pro-rate if it dies prematurely. My stock battery in my 06 is still good and thats with about 66K on it. Firm believer in that if you take care of the battery it shouldnt fail other than a manufacture defect. Letting the battery die and requiring a recharge is murder on your battery. If its going to sit longer than a few days I would buy a trickle charger.
Fitment in our battery tray/box is pretty crucial. I get annoyed when a customer comes in with these janky batteries that they want me to make fit. The volvo batteries from the dealer are fairly fresh, we do so many that they usually never sit for more than a month and since we can get them the next day (thru interstate truck) we generally order them day before the car comes in. Plus you get a warranty and pro-rate if it dies prematurely.
KYLE - I agree, my '06 S40 was picked up June 28th of 2005, so it's over five yrs old, over 110,000 miles and still on the factory battery. And I haven't even cleaned the battery terminals. I know certain geographic areas are harder on batteries than others, everyone thinks winter & cold weather kills batteries, and it does, but miseable boiling heat is worse on them. VOLVONB must be from Arizona or New Mexico. Only 2-1/2 yrs from a battery?
I have a coming up on 4.5 yrs OEM 700 CCA battery and have never checked the fluid level. Should I or can I? It's buried under the strut bar. Never worried about it because I figuired if I have to I'll just bump start it.
I know Ford and Chevy have some killer warranties on their batteries not sure about volvo. I think my dad has a 10 year on his vette battery and my mom has like 6 or 7 in her mustang
Texas does get pretty hot at times. I don't do anything unusual. Drive to work and drive home mostly. The car is in covered parking at work and in the garage at home. Maybe my alternator is bad/weak.
My OEM 700 cca volvo battery failed me while I was listening to the radio in the parking lot. The battery, having died and with winter coming on, I didn't want to risk it so I found this thread.
This thread needs a sticky.
All 3 sizes, 94r, 48 and 40r all work and fit. My best value was an interstate 730cca 48 battery at $150 vs. $200 for a volvo 700cca battery oem.
The 48 is a bit shorter, but the metal battery tie down under the hood will hold it in place with a good tightening of the 10mm bolt.
You do have to undo the ground wire for the battery and remove the cover to pull the battery out. Not bad. Did it outside the interstate shop.
It turns out there are three different capacities installed in these models, depending on what type of sound or nav system installed:
- for a car fitted with Premium Sound *or* a Nav, the 94R/H7 battery is correct.
- for cars with High Performance sound, I'm not sure but I think it's likely H7 as well.
- for cars with standard sound, there is a spacer at the front of the battery tray, and an extension on the positive cable. The battery for these cars is 48/H6.
My car, a 2005 V50 with standard sound, had a factory H6-ish battery with 520CCA. The replacement Walmart H6 has 730CCA, for $99.87. It was 1/2" taller and required some modification to the holddown bracket. Fits perfectly otherwise.
An H7 would fit, but would require removing the spacer and stretching the positive cable forward. With the better fit and only 50 less CCA, I opted for the H6.
It turns out there are three different capacities installed in these models, depending on what type of sound or nav system installed:
- for a car fitted with Premium Sound *or* a Nav, the 94R/H7 battery is correct.
- for cars with High Performance sound, I'm not sure but I think it's likely H7 as well.
- for cars with standard sound, there is a spacer at the front of the battery tray, and an extension on the positive cable. The battery for these cars is 48/H6.
My car, a 2005 V50 with standard sound, had a factory H6-ish battery with 520CCA. The replacement Walmart H6 has 730CCA, for $99.87. It was 1/2" taller and required some modification to the holddown bracket. Fits perfectly otherwise.
An H7 would fit, but would require removing the spacer and stretching the positive cable forward. With the better fit and only 50 less CCA, I opted for the H6.
i still have my stock battery, i purchase my car new in september of 2009 and i now have 51K on her. even on cold starts in the 14F winter, it starts right up no problem
searching for battery sizes and options and ruling out Alternator, I came across this discussion. My experience is this: 2008 V50 suddenly stopped starting (didn't leave the lights on or have any other power drain on the Volvo Battery replaced 9/10), of course key stuck in ignition until you get some power to the battery, had to use the metal key insert to release the transmission for the first time to put the car in N to push it back to my truck for a jump.
car would run after being jumped but even after being driven for 20-30 mins would not maintain a charge and wouldn't restart. Battery would be at 10v after trying to start, and I would see 13.98v when the car was running at the battery terminals. The only reason I put this out here is because between the forums and "answers" pages there is a lot of bad info and my evaluation sequence is pretty typical of a cell going out and needing a new battery. (Buy a $20 multimeter, it pays for itself).
To reiterate what tmtalpey said in January, I got the Everstart Maxx H6 (730cca) for $100 rather than the suggested H7 (790cca) $130 because is was cheaper and if you have the low end sound system the battery that comes stock (520cca) is shorter and there is a spacer in the front of the battery compartment that sets it up for an H6 sized battery. Only issue is I had to find a spacer (such as a thick-ish 1/2" nut) to bring the securing strap up approx 3/4" so the strap could be flattened with artistic hammering and pulled across the slightly higher profiled Maxx sufficiently to put the opposite side 10mm nut on. Kind of a pain but the cover still snapped on fine.
interestingly the H6's on the shelf at Walmart had 2 and 3/13 stickers while the H7's were all 9-11/12. Wonder what eats up all the H6's.
Unfortunately someone reading this probably is in a situation where their Volvo battery has already been compromised to the point that saying check the water levels is pretty useless. I found one cell to be low in my bad Volvo battery. Wish I had thought to check before I had problems.
Anyway, having to fight to get a battery to fit in a little car makes me hark back to having a 1000cca Everready in my 1970 Dodge A100 that was one of the few vehicles that would start on -40F days in Minnesota. Of course I had to spend all day jump starting my friend Chevy Crapaliers.
My original battery was replaced due to a leak in 2008 with an OEM battery when I bought the car as a CPO. That battery now has nearly 5 years and 100K miles on it. Still going strong.
Stan
Finally had to replace my genuine Volvo battery after 6.5 years and about 125K miles. Sears had a 15% off sale and I cashed my Sears points and got a DieHard Advanced Gold AGM Group 94R rated for 800 CCA. It fit perfect and the car starts perfect now. For years I had an issue where the starter would ofter start to spin, stop and then continue; like it had a high spot. Now it spins right up and starts the car.
Stan
If you want to convert from the type-48 to the larger type 94R, your positive cable will be pushed forward. Turns out you can replace that portion of the cable (Volvo calls it a "shoe").
The "Short Shoe" (for using the 94R battery) is part #30656851
The "Long Shoe" (for using the 48 battery) is part #30656853
If you want to convert from the type-48 to the larger type 94R, your positive cable will be pushed forward. Turns out you can replace that portion of the cable (Volvo calls it a "shoe").
The "Short Shoe" (for using the 94R battery) is part #30656851
The "Long Shoe" (for using the 48 battery) is part #30656853
After 125,000 miles, my factory battery was starting to go out (can you believe it lasted that long?). When looking at replacements I ran into an issue with finding the right battery for my 2005 S40. Since I couldn't find the battery for my car (and being a car-guy), I decided to install the biggest battery I could get into my car! This gave me the ability to install the battery for the premium sound system (H7) to replace my smaller factory battery (H5).
In my search for information, I found this thread the most informative piece of information about how to put an H7 battery in an S40. What isn't mentioned above is that the battery strap also needs to be replaced.
To swap to a H7 battery, you need:
Remove the spacer in battery tray
Replace the pole shoe with Part # 30656851-0
Replace Battery Strap (Brace) with Part # 8676469-3
NOTE: We don't sell the parts listed. Don't ask. But if you want a timing belt, wiper blades, brakes, or something else, just click the link in my signature
Thanks Garret! I had to tweak my factory bracket to fit the battery, but I thought that was only necessary because I bought a non-Volvo replacement.
I'll be ordering the new bracket because I'm not fully satisfied with my bracket mods.
PS: I'm not a fan of the "Everstart" batteries....... there's a reason we refer to them as "Neverstarts". Keep the receipt. I hope you wont need it, but experience tells me you will
PS: I'm not a fan of the "Everstart" batteries....... there's a reason we refer to them as "Neverstarts". Keep the receipt. I hope you wont need it, but experience tells me you will
Thanks for the heads up. I'll keep the receipt and pay close attention to this one. I hope this one has the performance of my other everystart batteries and not the performance you've experienced. Do you have one you would recommend?
I bought it because this will be the 5th Everstart batteries in my cars (all the others are a Johnson Controls-made 27DC-12). Thus far, I only had one go out. It was 10 years old, and I ran it down to 5v from a bad alternator.
But do note, I have strangely good luck with batteries. My factory battery lasted me 8 years and 125k miles!
EDIT: I just did some research, and it looks like Johnson Controls (Varta) is the factory supplier of batteries to Volvo. Chances are my everstart battery is the same as what the dealer would sell me.
You're correct. I found many years ago when I bought a replacement battery for my '99 V70XC that only a couple suppliers made the battery and that they were all essentially the same (though it costed a relative small fortune).
Local auto store had the big battery for my V50 at $169. I went to local Farm and Fleet and picked up same one (84 month, also made by Johnson Controls) for $89 plus a rebate. I looked them both over and the ONLY difference was the decal on the battery representing the brand.
Hi All. Just wanted to add another battery to the list. Like others I went through all kinds of gyrations (2005 S40 T5 no premium sound.) Lots of sources called for the H7 but mine was clearly the H5. Wal-Mart had an H5 but, as a poster above indicated, that required slight modification to the hold down strap. I'd have been tempted to upgrade parts (strap and pole shoe) for the H7 but, to be honest, I see no reason for all that hoopla (at least where I live, and the OEM battery gave me 8 years and was less CCA's than this new one.)
Batteries Plus sold me a Duracell Procell Gold- Model # SLI91T6M - for $120.00. They also do the install (I stood there and watched as I'm funny about folks tinkering w/ my car- they took good care.) Anyway it's 700 CCA and it's a direct fit- no issues whatsoever...same dimensions as my OEM H5. It's also not a "maintenance free" battery, so one can check the water levels in it periodically. Hope this helps-
I want to add a battery to the list. I spent $150 on an interstate battery. Costco (Johnson Controls) has it for $80. GO with Costco. Free replacement within 3 years of use.
Just an update on costs: as of 2014, Herb Gordon wants $199.00 for a Volvo branded battery. I went for Pep Boys' offer of $199 for a Bosch AGM battery, minus a 10% sale discount, mainly because they were closer. DieHard also offers AGM in the H7 size for ~$40 less.
I'm lazy and didn't read the whole post, but it depends on what your car has for options. My '05 V50 T5 awd uses a $120 Volvo battery and not the larger $175+ size.
Actually, H5, H6 and H7 are all used in our cars, depending on the model and optional equipment. Lots of information in this long thread, but thanks for the new photos!
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