98 Volvo S90 Timing belt change
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    1. #1
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Jun 2006

      98 Volvo S90 Timing belt change

      I just got a cheap quote for a timing belt replacemnt on a 98 S90 ($380). The service advisor claimed there was no tensioners etc. Is this true? What should be replaced when the timing belt is changed?


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    3. #2

    4. #3
      Junior Member RSpi's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Albuquerque, NM
      Here are my instructions. Lots of pictures: http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technolo...iming_belt.htm
      '95 850 T-5R Wagon - Panther - DD 310,000, 22/28
      '98 S70 GLT "Lil Red" - Daughter - 24/31 l '90 745 NA (New to me) l 2 in flip mode.
      Volvo's of time past: 740 GLE, 262C Bertone, 264, 960, S90, S70 GLT, Yellow T-5R...
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    6. #4

      Great Post thanks

      Quote Originally Posted by RSpi View Post
      Here are my instructions. Lots of pictures: http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technolo...iming_belt.htm
      Great post very easy to follow. I'll be doing the water pump and timing belt this week.

    7. #5
      Senior Member
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Temple, Texas, USA
      Quote Originally Posted by tbrinsonsr View Post
      Great post very easy to follow. I'll be doing the water pump and timing belt this week.
      Welcome to Swedespeed, Theron.

      Please consider starting a new thread and sharing your repair experiences with us.


      George Dill

    8. #6
      Just did the timing belt on my '96 960 today. I'm not sure it was any easier than doing it on the 780T - just different. I pretty much followed RSpi instructions - very good write up. If I had it to do over again I'd put the tensioner on loosely before putting the timing belt on and see if that makes getting the 'slop' out of the belt a bit easier. You can try putting the belt on the crank first, then getting it as tight as possible around the intake cam gear, follwed by the exhaust cam gear, then the water pump, THEN putting on the tensioner, but I found if you disturb the belt in the slightest trying to put the tensioner back on, it immediately popped off the crank and you're back to loose belt everywhere. Be careful taking the locking pin out of the tensioner once you think you're ready to do that - mine did NOT come out easily and if you use a set of pliers to pull hard, and you have removed the fan for room (I suggest doing this - takes 15 minutes) you run the risk of the pin suddenly releasing and the handle of the pliers crashing into the exsposed radiator. I ran a long screwdriver through the circular grip on the pin and carefully pried it out. First time I've done a 960 - took about 4 or 5 hours from start to finish - the tensioner thing just went on and on and on and on . . .

      I would also pop the ignition coils and remove the plugs. A good time to replace them anyway, and it releases the compression when you turn the crank to alight the markings (although I think you could probably just mark where they sit with a bit of paint or fingernail polish). Set the coils back in the holes just to keep junk from falling in. It may be in the instructions, but give the crank two full turns from TDC (or where ever your marking are) to make sure nothing binds up (valves and pistons). If it spins easily that way you can feel a bet less nervous about starting it up.
      2007 S60RGT Titanium Grey Metallic / Gobi / 17" Pegs
      1989 780 B230FT / Maroon / Tan
      1973 1800 ES / Lt Blue Metallic / Black

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