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"Reduced Engine Performance"
05 T5 79,000 miles
Recently,on startup I get a "Reduced Engine Performance" message.
So far,it goes away if I shut down and restart.
Should I be worrying about anything?
Yes, but I'm not sure what. Perhaps a sensor on its way out that's not giving a good readout when cold.
Nautic Blue 2004 V70 T5M (Quaife LSD, IPD Stage 1, IPD sways + end links, Eibach springs + Bilstein HD Sport struts)
Sapphire Black 2008 C30 2.0 T5 GT (Stock until the wife changes her mind
2 weeks ago, my car was run out of gas and when i fill it with gas it wont start. and when it did it had that same message :S
like he said, does it means something ?
by the way i have a 2002 2.4t s60
I would suggest checking to see what DTCs are stored in memory. You can check to see if codes are stored by :
1) Turn your ignition to II, but don't start the car.
2) Hold the "read" button on your turn signal stalk
BE QUICK HERE, timing is everything
3) Press the rear foglight switch twice.
4) Look at your trip comp.
5) Keep pressing "read"
After a short pause, the display (hopefully! ) reports:
No DTCs found.
Reported systems are:
BCM (Brake Control Module)
DEM (Differential Electronics Module - AWD)
ECM (Engine Control Module)
SWM (Steering Wheel Module)
EPS (Electrical Power Steering)
CEM (Central Electronic Module)
SRS (Supplemental Restraint System)
CCM (Climate Control Module)
DDM (Driver Door Module)
ICM (Infotainment Control Module)
PDM (Passenger Door Module)
KDM (Keyless Drive module)
If you have codes stored you will need a Volvo specific code reader like Vadis or Vida to see which exact codes they are.
i dont have any of these codes
Gents, 2009 S60 2.5T. I recently had a spate of intermittent error messages (REP, Anti-skid, etc...) that went away on restart. They typically happened when the car took longer than its normal 3 seconds to start, which was about once a week. In one case, at 0 deg F, I had to boost after failing to start in 30 secs. Replaced the plugs, cleaned the throttle body: symptoms were less frequent but not solved. Then, after reading a number of threads including advice from NJGreenBudd about how "strange things happen when the battery is going", I bought a digital voltmeter to replace my 40 yr old analog, and read 12.2V at the terminals. Alternator voltage was 14, so I bought a new btty. Problem solved. Big thanks to NJG! I wish I had read your posts sooner!