Turn Signal Switch Install
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    1. #1

      Post Turn Signal Switch Install

      Ok, it's not decoding the CANBUS, or putting in ecodes, but here's how the turn signal stalk is installed. I ordered mine from Tasca, 05-07 with trip computer is part #31268566. Mine has been wonky for years, it was finally driving me crazy enough to buy a new one. Probably shoulda' done this a long time ago, it's super easy to replace:

      Under the steering column remove three torx 25:


      Lift the top cover up and away (it doesn't come completely out), and push the bottom piece down a little to access two small Phillips head screws holding the stalk in place, one is on the top and one on the bottom, and take them out:


      Pull the old stalk straight out, the connections are made by a series of "plug and play" pins:


      Push the new stalk into place and screw in the two screws that secure it. The rubber grommet (also supplied with the new part) is keyed to go in one way, so look before you push it back into place:



      Screw the torx screws back in and you're golden! Took maybe 15 minutes to do this.
      '05 Ti-Kap GT SR; MTE tune; Bell FMIC; TME DP, exhaust, & springs; IPD CAI; IPD HD coils; IPD TCV; AEM H20/MeOH kit w/ flow gauge; Viva CBV & strut bar conversion; SNABB inlet pipe; TD Pro Race 1.2 35ET 18x8's; 235/40 GY Eagle F1 Asym 2; Adam's Rotors w/Hawk HPS pads; IPD camber kit; IPD Track-spec sways; Elevate hood grilles; CF Werks spoiler; Prosport boost gauge w/ vent pod; LED DRL's; PIAA fogs; EST LED bulbs. CaR photo

    2. #2
      awesome write-up! I need to do this.
      I was thinking of cleaning mine; does this seem like something that could be taken apart easily and cleaned instead of buying new?
      2004 S60R 6MT Tuned by Autotech

      Quote Originally Posted by tomedkaz
      Also, it goes without saying that you should lower your caR
      My Build Thread: CLICK HERE
      Buy my used, but good S60R shocks HERE

    3. #3
      ^It's super easy take the stalk out, I suppose you could try doing that and cleaning the pins off.
      '05 Ti-Kap GT SR; MTE tune; Bell FMIC; TME DP, exhaust, & springs; IPD CAI; IPD HD coils; IPD TCV; AEM H20/MeOH kit w/ flow gauge; Viva CBV & strut bar conversion; SNABB inlet pipe; TD Pro Race 1.2 35ET 18x8's; 235/40 GY Eagle F1 Asym 2; Adam's Rotors w/Hawk HPS pads; IPD camber kit; IPD Track-spec sways; Elevate hood grilles; CF Werks spoiler; Prosport boost gauge w/ vent pod; LED DRL's; PIAA fogs; EST LED bulbs. CaR photo

    4. #4
      Quote Originally Posted by BlazinBob View Post
      ^It's super easy take the stalk out, I suppose you could try doing that and cleaning the pins off.
      Okay I'd like to confirm that there's no need to buy a new stalk. Simply take out the old one, unscrew thew board from it and clean the connections. There was a lot of build-up on my connections, that's why it didn't work properly.
      I noticed that the "male sliders" created groves on the female receivers (you'll know what it means when you take yours apart) so I bent the male sliders sideways that way they're all sliding on new territory. With that and a good clean the stalk works as new.
      2004 S60R 6MT Tuned by Autotech

      Quote Originally Posted by tomedkaz
      Also, it goes without saying that you should lower your caR
      My Build Thread: CLICK HERE
      Buy my used, but good S60R shocks HERE

    5. #5
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      Tom and Bob - thanks! I know what I'm doing this weekend. My signal does not work about 5% of the time. If I wiggle it, it comes on no problem.

    6. #6
      Does cleaning the pins fix the erratic blinkers problem? That's the only thing wonky with my stalk - wiggle it and it fixes itself. The other controls on the stalk are ALWAYS PERFECT, only the blinkers are weird...
      2002 Volvo S60 T5 5M (SOLD) - ECU, intake, exhaust - 2:05 at BIR long course || 2006 Volvo S60R 6M Sonic Blue (RIP - saved my life) - 2:03.5 at BIR long course - 2:00 at BIR short course - Road Trip Pics - My HD Trackday Videos - Loud enough for ya? || 2007 Volvo S80 V8 (his), Barents Blue, 35% tint, Sport Package (4C), Heated and Cooled Seats || 2011 Volvo XC70 T6 (hers), Oyster Grey, 35% tint, hood liner removed so I can hear the turbo now

    7. #7
      Quote Originally Posted by tomedkaz View Post
      Okay I'd like to confirm that there's no need to buy a new stalk.
      Lol, Now you tell me...

      Before I replaced it, mine was not turning on for right hand turns and the trip computer screen would come on virtually every time I engaged the stalk for either right or left turns. I didn't try to clean the old stalk first, the new one is working just fine though.
      '05 Ti-Kap GT SR; MTE tune; Bell FMIC; TME DP, exhaust, & springs; IPD CAI; IPD HD coils; IPD TCV; AEM H20/MeOH kit w/ flow gauge; Viva CBV & strut bar conversion; SNABB inlet pipe; TD Pro Race 1.2 35ET 18x8's; 235/40 GY Eagle F1 Asym 2; Adam's Rotors w/Hawk HPS pads; IPD camber kit; IPD Track-spec sways; Elevate hood grilles; CF Werks spoiler; Prosport boost gauge w/ vent pod; LED DRL's; PIAA fogs; EST LED bulbs. CaR photo

    8. #8
      Member VolvokidS60R's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by tomedkaz View Post
      awesome write-up! I need to do this.
      I was thinking of cleaning mine; does this seem like something that could be taken apart easily and cleaned instead of buying new?
      umm what would you clean..? i wish i still had one laying around but i dont..
      I dont think there is much to take appart once removed maybe the contacts but i think the ssuse is in the click/lock mecanesim
      No more R got a 1995 240sx converted to a Silvia in replacement... Can't say I miss the Volvo
      P.s no more am i Volvo tech... I now am a shop Forman at a high performance shop.
      Quote Originally Posted by Fitzy View Post
      Yeah right, he's all happy you called...then a yellow birdie flys by and oh here's a cupcake, btw what were we talking about...

    9. #9
      Quote Originally Posted by VolvokidS60R View Post
      umm what would you clean..? i wish i still had one laying around but i dont..
      I dont think there is much to take appart once removed maybe the contacts but i think the ssuse is in the click/lock mecanesim
      I with I took pictures
      Basically, if you take apart the below board (silver screw) you'll notice that there are sliders on the other side which are activated by the movement of the stalk. For some reason, the connections in my stalk had grease and dirt on them, which I cleaned off, and it essentially fixed the problem.
      I dont think the click/lock mechanism has anything to do with it. The problem is not that the click/lock doesnt stay, but the problem is that once the stalk is clicked, nothing is happening, which indicates a poor electrical connection.

      2004 S60R 6MT Tuned by Autotech

      Quote Originally Posted by tomedkaz
      Also, it goes without saying that you should lower your caR
      My Build Thread: CLICK HERE
      Buy my used, but good S60R shocks HERE

    10. #10
      Member VolvokidS60R's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by tomedkaz View Post
      I with I took pictures
      Basically, if you take apart the below board (silver screw) you'll notice that there are sliders on the other side which are activated by the movement of the stalk. For some reason, the connections in my stalk had grease and dirt on them, which I cleaned off, and it essentially fixed the problem.
      I dont think the click/lock mechanism has anything to do with it. The problem is not that the click/lock doesnt stay, but the problem is that once the stalk is clicked, nothing is happening, which indicates a poor electrical connection.

      thats right it does click/lock just not WORK!
      LOL i kinada forgot LOL
      good job keep me posted. You see I like to sell labor over parts so if i can rebuild/clean adj then i will start to do that VS selling parts witch i hate. cuts into my my money!
      No more R got a 1995 240sx converted to a Silvia in replacement... Can't say I miss the Volvo
      P.s no more am i Volvo tech... I now am a shop Forman at a high performance shop.
      Quote Originally Posted by Fitzy View Post
      Yeah right, he's all happy you called...then a yellow birdie flys by and oh here's a cupcake, btw what were we talking about...

    11. #11
      I still have the old one, maybe I can take a close-up of what's "beneath the board" and post it. Then clean it and sell it "like new" lol.
      '05 Ti-Kap GT SR; MTE tune; Bell FMIC; TME DP, exhaust, & springs; IPD CAI; IPD HD coils; IPD TCV; AEM H20/MeOH kit w/ flow gauge; Viva CBV & strut bar conversion; SNABB inlet pipe; TD Pro Race 1.2 35ET 18x8's; 235/40 GY Eagle F1 Asym 2; Adam's Rotors w/Hawk HPS pads; IPD camber kit; IPD Track-spec sways; Elevate hood grilles; CF Werks spoiler; Prosport boost gauge w/ vent pod; LED DRL's; PIAA fogs; EST LED bulbs. CaR photo

    12. #12
      Quote Originally Posted by BlazinBob View Post
      I still have the old one, maybe I can take a close-up of what's "beneath the board" and post it. Then clean it and sell it "like new" lol.

      yea... post up pics... be careful there is a loose part that might jump out at you
      2004 S60R 6MT Tuned by Autotech

      Quote Originally Posted by tomedkaz
      Also, it goes without saying that you should lower your caR
      My Build Thread: CLICK HERE
      Buy my used, but good S60R shocks HERE

    13. #13
      Ok, here's what is behind the board after you remove the small screw holding it:
      The lower arm moves for L/R signal selection, the upper one moves when you pull the stalk back for high beam. The contact points on the board are dielectric greasy.
      '05 Ti-Kap GT SR; MTE tune; Bell FMIC; TME DP, exhaust, & springs; IPD CAI; IPD HD coils; IPD TCV; AEM H20/MeOH kit w/ flow gauge; Viva CBV & strut bar conversion; SNABB inlet pipe; TD Pro Race 1.2 35ET 18x8's; 235/40 GY Eagle F1 Asym 2; Adam's Rotors w/Hawk HPS pads; IPD camber kit; IPD Track-spec sways; Elevate hood grilles; CF Werks spoiler; Prosport boost gauge w/ vent pod; LED DRL's; PIAA fogs; EST LED bulbs. CaR photo

    14. #14
      Quote Originally Posted by BlazinBob View Post
      Ok, here's what is behind the board after you remove the small screw holding it:
      The lower arm moves for L/R signal selection, the upper one moves when you pull the stalk back for high beam. The contact points on the board are dielectric greasy.
      Nice!
      Just hit the contacts with some fine sandpaper and it should clean them up
      2004 S60R 6MT Tuned by Autotech

      Quote Originally Posted by tomedkaz
      Also, it goes without saying that you should lower your caR
      My Build Thread: CLICK HERE
      Buy my used, but good S60R shocks HERE

    15. #15
      Junior Member oshi's Avatar
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      I have a turn signal stalk waiting to go in my car, but it's still covered under warranty so I can't install it myself or I'd have to pay for it too. Now I'm stuck waiting for a tech to be free to install it, but I'll definitely keep this handy in case it ever dies again after the warranty runs out. Nice to know that it's not difficult.

    16. #16
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      Thanks for the pics in this thread BlazinBob. I took tomedkaz's suggestion and cleaned the terminals reapplied the grease and shes working like a charm. This community rocks.
      12 Dodge Challenger R/T (midlife crisis)
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    17. #17
      Junior Member jollyeskimo's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by 58Ford2 View Post
      Thanks for the pics in this thread BlazinBob. I took tomedkaz's suggestion and cleaned the terminals reapplied the grease and shes working like a charm. This community rocks.
      Ditto that. The iffy signal stalk's been bothering me for months and I finally fixed this in minutes.

    18. #18
      For those experiencing the problem what exactly are the symptoms? I assume this problem effecst both the interior dash arrow lights AND the exterior turn signals from working, correct?
      (I'm asking because I'm a religious signaler for highway lane changes yet a cop pulled me over saying I made three lane changes and didn't signal one of them)

      LTA
      2006 S60R 6MT BlackSapph/Atacama, Ferrita3"DP/EST-Catback/BMC/CustomCAI/A-Mist/18"PS2/NAV/iMIV/22mmRearSB/TME Springs (installed, finally! )
      2005 XC90 2.5T - Loaded family hauler
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    19. #19
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      LTA - so am I. My assumption was if it isnt signalling on the dash - it wasnt at the exterior corners.

      Unfortunately this problem is intemitant and on the freeway after making a change -its not like you can pull over and check to see if the indicators are working. You may signal once - it works, next time it wont then the third time it does. I couldnt replicate it at the dealer (final check before the warranty expired) either.

      I seemed to have the bigest problem when I did the soft indicate (as in not fully on, but just trying to blink the indicators) rather than the indicator on and locked.

      Also my indicator didnt like the left. Right was fine. Others have had the opposite. My interior light did not illuminate and their was no audible sound.
      12 Dodge Challenger R/T (midlife crisis)
      11 Rav4 Limited V6
      05 SR GT Black Saphire - Gobi and proud of it. Also very proud of my Anthracite 18" Pegs, Blacked out grille, IPD upper mount, JRL mod. TRADED IN 1/21/12
      58 Ford F100 302 C4 9"

    20. #20
      Junior Member jollyeskimo's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by LTA View Post
      For those experiencing the problem what exactly are the symptoms? I assume this problem effecst both the interior dash arrow lights AND the exterior turn signals from working, correct?
      (I'm asking because I'm a religious signaler for highway lane changes yet a cop pulled me over saying I made three lane changes and didn't signal one of them)

      LTA

      For me, about 30% of the time my left signal (never the right) would either flicker very fast or not at all. I used to remedy it by pushing the stalk in/out a bit until the contacts hit.

    21. #21
      Alright I see all you guys are having more of electrical problems with the stalk. I, on the other hand, have what seems like a more mechanical problem. I somewhat remember that when I got the car, the car made a less noticeable and nicer sounding "click" sound for signaling and turning the brights on and off. Now it seems to make a cheap "crackle click". Is this something that could be fixed by taking it apart, or should I just order a new stalk?

    22. #22
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      I would. The internals are all plastic - sounds like its on its way out. They are only $40 ish IIRC from tasca.
      12 Dodge Challenger R/T (midlife crisis)
      11 Rav4 Limited V6
      05 SR GT Black Saphire - Gobi and proud of it. Also very proud of my Anthracite 18" Pegs, Blacked out grille, IPD upper mount, JRL mod. TRADED IN 1/21/12
      58 Ford F100 302 C4 9"

    23. #23
      Junior Member jollyeskimo's Avatar
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      Just a quick update on mine... a previous touch-up with sandpaper/grease didn't last all of 3 months, so this week I took it apart and tinned the contacts on the PCB with some solder.

    24. #24
      This is awesome! Kudos to Blazinbob and Tomedkaz and others. I used have an erratic turn signal while turning Left. Right was fine. I followed the instructions in the beginning and could not get the nerve to "Pull" the stalk straight out. But I pulled a connector out and blew compressed air into the contact holes and put it back......On an intuition, I tried the turn signals and viola! they work! Will save this if it really gives up again and clean the contacts. Thanks again

    25. #25
      Quote Originally Posted by sudheendrar View Post
      This is awesome! Kudos to Blazinbob and Tomedkaz and others. I used have an erratic turn signal while turning Left. Right was fine. I followed the instructions in the beginning and could not get the nerve to "Pull" the stalk straight out. But I pulled a connector out and blew compressed air into the contact holes and put it back......On an intuition, I tried the turn signals and viola! they work! Will save this if it really gives up again and clean the contacts. Thanks again
      woof woof
      2004 S60R 6MT Tuned by Autotech

      Quote Originally Posted by tomedkaz
      Also, it goes without saying that you should lower your caR
      My Build Thread: CLICK HERE
      Buy my used, but good S60R shocks HERE

    26. #26
      I would not have been able to do this myself today without this thread, so thanks Bob for saving me $$$$.

    27. #27
      ^No problem! Sometimes seeing it done once is all the inspiration you need.
      '05 Ti-Kap GT SR; MTE tune; Bell FMIC; TME DP, exhaust, & springs; IPD CAI; IPD HD coils; IPD TCV; AEM H20/MeOH kit w/ flow gauge; Viva CBV & strut bar conversion; SNABB inlet pipe; TD Pro Race 1.2 35ET 18x8's; 235/40 GY Eagle F1 Asym 2; Adam's Rotors w/Hawk HPS pads; IPD camber kit; IPD Track-spec sways; Elevate hood grilles; CF Werks spoiler; Prosport boost gauge w/ vent pod; LED DRL's; PIAA fogs; EST LED bulbs. CaR photo

    28. #28
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      I did this a couple weekends ago and forgot to post. It was easy, just took out that board and added a thin layer of solder to each of the worn contacts, put it back in, and it is working great. Thanks!
      2004 S60R MT Titanium/Gobi -05 Center Console - IPD HD Poly Transmission Mount - IPD R Kelly CAI - IPD R Boost Gauge Sold
      Climate Control Bulb Replacement
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    29. #29
      Junior Member Bauhausmedia's Avatar
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      Thanks for the post. I can turn left again.

    30. #30
      Member aggrorider1's Avatar
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      If the high beams wont stay on on their own would this fix that???

    31. #31
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      Quote Originally Posted by aggrorider1 View Post
      If the high beams wont stay on on their own would this fix that???
      I think the fix for that is to turn the headlight switch to the "ON" position
      2004 S60R MT Titanium/Gobi -05 Center Console - IPD HD Poly Transmission Mount - IPD R Kelly CAI - IPD R Boost Gauge Sold
      Climate Control Bulb Replacement
      Reverse Light Switch Replacement
      04 to 05+ Console Swap

    32. #32
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      DO NOT USE Sandpaper on those contacts!!
      Use a pencil eraser. That is normal oxidation on the contacts of the circuit board.
      I know what I'm talking about. Look at my Sig.

      Dadio61.
      2007 S60R, Black Sapphire, Gobi seats with black trim and brushed aluminium inserts.
      EST Sport Exhaust and downpipe. Viva CBV with silicon hose. IPD stut bar blocks, K&N air filter. 2001 S60 2.4T, 2002 XC70 AWD.
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    33. #33
      Junior Member maxenar's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Skurvy_Pirate View Post
      I think the fix for that is to turn the headlight switch to the "ON" position
      Yes +1. For some reason my signal stalk insides were dirty as heck. I pulled it out, cleaned sh*t and it works perfectly now. HOWEVER, my HU850 decided to cut on and off after this procedure. Maybe I did this procedure without disconnecting the battery?
      2006 Volvo S60 R | GT | Passion Red | ///S2R
      { COMFORT | SPORT | ADVANCED }
      "PRACTICE SAFE SEX, MAKE LOVE IN A VOLVO."

    34. #34
      Quote Originally Posted by tomedkaz View Post
      Okay I'd like to confirm that there's no need to buy a new stalk. Simply take out the old one, unscrew thew board from it and clean the connections. There was a lot of build-up on my connections, that's why it didn't work properly.
      I noticed that the "male sliders" created groves on the female receivers (you'll know what it means when you take yours apart) so I bent the male sliders sideways that way they're all sliding on new territory. With that and a good clean the stalk works as new.
      Tom you just saved me $126. Tell me where to send the six pack.

      Just a tip, make sure you have a "very fine" flux core solder and be very very gentle. Make sure the nubs on the contacts are nice and round and no sharp edges. Good show folks!
      '07 V70R-- iPd stg1|iPdtcv|RKcai|phMIC|iPd sways|iPd links|SSR|IMIV|SecondSkin Insulation|huper optik|alpine|rockford
      JBL MS8....coming soon.... if you know the stock amp wiring please PM me

    35. #35
      Quote Originally Posted by kenhoeve View Post
      Tom you just saved me $126. Tell me where to send the six pack.

      Just a tip, make sure you have a "very fine" flux core solder and be very very gentle. Make sure the nubs on the contacts are nice and round and no sharp edges. Good show folks!
      We can swap rides .... I'd love a VR hehe
      But yea I'm glad we all could help out
      2004 S60R 6MT Tuned by Autotech

      Quote Originally Posted by tomedkaz
      Also, it goes without saying that you should lower your caR
      My Build Thread: CLICK HERE
      Buy my used, but good S60R shocks HERE

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