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    1. #1
      Junior Member nWoods's Avatar
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      Brake Fluid Flush

      It's time to flush my brake fluid and I'm hoping this is something within my abilities. I've never done it before, but it's my first car so I've got to start somewhere right?

      (I'm not going at this as half hazardly as that sounds... hence the questions)

      I was hoping to hear some pointers, shortcuts, techniques, must have tools on the R, etc.

      Currently I was just planning to do the two-person method (one pumping the break while the other bleeds it), but I've seen some other products out there. I'm considering a Power Bleeder based on some good reviews on some other threads, but not sure it's necessary.

      Is there a walkthrough on the site that I haven't been able to find?

    2. #2
      Member Denis's Avatar
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      if you are doing two person, place a piece of wood under your brake pedal so it would not travel all the way to the floor and damage master cylinder
      there are plenty of walkthroughs on internet and youtube

    3. #3
      Member kmg_S60R's Avatar
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      Get a motive brake bleeder... There are two versions a regular and a black label that has better components... Though the cheaper one will work perfectly fine. Then once it is setup bleed farthest from the resivoir to closest, I think it goes, Right rear, left rear, right front, left front, and me personally I would bleed the system using the right rear caliper bleeder until you see clean or new fluid cap it all up actuate the clutch about 10-20 times to get the fluid to blend in and then go through the entire process so that you get it as clean as possible as the clutch uses the same fluid resivoir as the brakes.
      06 Ti Grey SR w/Sport Pkg, Manual, (IPD)>Stage II, AMS w/custom AEM Dry Flow, 3in DP, Track Sway Bars, HD Endlinks, Boost Gauge, Silicone Vac Lines, Upr Engine Mnt, HD Trans Mount. SNABB Intake & Short Shifter,IPD 3" Oval Exhaust, Phuz HD TCV, Viva HD CBV, Wg 7psi, Port Matched/Polished Intake Manifold, Victory Performance FMIC w/IMEC, Labonte Stg II H2O/Meth Injection. http://www.dragtimes.com/Volvo-S60-Timeslip-19306.html

    4. #4
      If you are going to be flushing the brakes, replace the lines with some SS lines. I ordered a set from TireRack and so far so good and the pedal feel is very noticeable.
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    5. #5
      Quote Originally Posted by PureDrive07 View Post
      If you are going to be flushing the brakes, replace the lines with some SS lines. I ordered a set from TireRack and so far so good and the pedal feel is very noticeable.
      I respectfully disagree, I think they are a waste of money unless you're doing really serious track stuff with the car. I have Motul 600, TiSpeed Shims, Ferodo race pads, and stock lines, and my pedal feel is fine during hour-long track sessions.
      2002 Volvo S60 T5 5M (SOLD) - ECU, intake, exhaust - 2:05 at BIR long course || 2006 Volvo S60R 6M Sonic Blue (RIP - saved my life) - 2:03.5 at BIR long course - 2:00 at BIR short course - Road Trip Pics - My HD Trackday Videos - Loud enough for ya? || 2007 Volvo S80 V8 (his), Barents Blue, 35% tint, Sport Package (4C), Heated and Cooled Seats, IPD Rear Sway Bar || 2011 Volvo XC70 T6 (hers), Oyster Grey, 35% tint, IPD Rear Sway Bar

    6. #6
      Junior Member nWoods's Avatar
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      So, for the flush you're bleeding the brake fluid from the caliper right? If you can access it through your rims should you still remove the wheel? I'm thinking yes because it's so corrosive to paint and a little mistake could ruin your wheels? Is there a mechanical reason also?

    7. #7
      Member inteller's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Warpedcow View Post
      I respectfully disagree, I think they are a waste of money unless you're doing really serious track stuff with the car. I have Motul 600, TiSpeed Shims, Ferodo race pads, and stock lines, and my pedal feel is fine during hour-long track sessions.
      they bump you out of SCCA stock classes too.
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    8. #8
      Member jstro's Avatar
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      just an FYI - your have 2 bleed valves on each caliper
      totally stock.. honest

    9. #9
      Quote Originally Posted by Warpedcow View Post
      I respectfully disagree, I think they are a waste of money unless you're doing really serious track stuff with the car. I have Motul 600, TiSpeed Shims, Ferodo race pads, and stock lines, and my pedal feel is fine during hour-long track sessions.
      To each his own. I don't feel like it was a waste of money, definitely noticeable on higher highway speeds when I've had to come to an abrupt stop, after stop (gotta love rubber necking in NJ, lol). The guys over at VCNA-Rockleigh were happy I did it and highly recommended it.

      But I respect your choice not to go with them, seems like you have a nice setup. I'm running stock pads and stock brake fluid.
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    10. #10
      Junior Member Doogwhan's Avatar
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      Get the power bleeder.

      Trying to flush fluid manually through the ABS unit will take forever, and as has been mentioned above you risk trashing your master cylinder if you help forgets the block of wood.

      The Motive unit and the fluid will cost you about what the dealership would charge. Spend a little up front, and enjoy cheap painless brake fluid changes from here on out. With two Volvo's and two VW's it has brought my price-per-flush waaaay down.

      +1 to taking the wheels off. Being lazy would actually be more work in this case.

      Brief how for the bleeder from the time I almost drowned my R
      http://www.volvo-forums.com/index.ph...l=motive+power
      Last edited by Doogwhan; 10-28-2010 at 09:25 PM. Reason: spellin'
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    11. #11
      Junior Member nWoods's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Doogwhan View Post
      Get the power bleeder.

      Trying to flush fluid manually through the ABS unit will take forever, and as has been mentioned above you risk trashing your master cylinder if you help forgets the block of wood.

      The Motive unit and the fluid will cost you about what the dealership would charge. Spend a little up front, and enjoy cheap painless brake fluid changes from here on out. With two Volvo's and two VW's it has brought my price-per-flush waaaay down.

      +1 to taking the wheels off. Being lazy would actually be more work in this case.

      Brief how for the bleeder from the time I almost drowned my R
      http://www.volvo-forums.com/index.ph...l=motive+power
      That walkthrough is great, thanks for taking the time to do that. I'm definitely going with the power bleeder from Motive that keeps getting mentioned. Now, I just need to figure out where to store 4 jack stands in my apartment.

    12. #12
      Junior Member redalrt's Avatar
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      Get a power bleeder of some sort. Makes it a one man job. I did it from the furthest caliper to the nearest caliper to the master cylinder. But as I understand it, the actual order is from nearest to furthest (?)
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    13. #13
      Junior Member volvoracer's Avatar
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      Don't forget you have 8 bleeder screws, 2 per wheel, 4 outer (visible looking through the wheel) and 4 inner, in same spot on caliper (up high), but inside.

      I spent hours one night getting that information...
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    14. #14
      Member kmg_S60R's Avatar
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      ^^^^ (All great information and advice) +1
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    15. #15
      Member TJM 04S60R's Avatar
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      +1 on the above.

      Most important thing is to take your time on any task you haven't done before. Make sure you have a day(or even a weekend) completely free. If you get stuck or something doesn't seem to be going right. STOP!! and figure it out. In the end it will be even more satisfying you fixed it and some Ahole didn't screw something up like Petew mentioned.
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    16. #16
      Guys,
      I am planning on doing this also. I just got my 06 S60R acouple months ago. 1 Question, does the clutch need to be bled also? Seeing KMG S60R's earlier post,"cap it all up actuate the clutch about 10-20 times to get the fluid to blend in and then go through the entire process so that you get it as clean as possible as the clutch uses the same fluid resivoir as the brakes. "
      ,it does not appear as if that needs to be done, but wanted to see if some could clarify.

    17. #17
      Member jstro's Avatar
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      You don't "have" to bleed the clutch, you will just have soem old fluid miked in with your new stuff. It would be optimial to bleed the clutch too but it not like baby seals will be clubbed if you don't
      totally stock.. honest

    18. #18
      Junior Member nWoods's Avatar
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      Is there some reason that the car has to be level to bleed the brakes if I'm using a pressurized system like the power bleeder?

      I've only got two jack stands and am about to move to a place without a garage, so I'm hoping to hold off getting more stuff for car maintenance.

      I was hoping to jack up the back, remove those wheels and bleed the brakes, then move to the front. I know it would be quicker to do all the wheels at once, but I don't mind the extra time. I know I would have to be careful not to let the lowest point of the reservoir get too low since it would be sloped and I definitely don't want air in the lines! But, is there another reason that the car needs to be level that I'm not thinking of?

    19. #19
      Member jstro's Avatar
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      AFAIK your car does not have to be level to bleed the brakes
      totally stock.. honest

    20. #20
      Quote Originally Posted by petew View Post
      Not only were they clueless (4-pot brakes --- they've never seen them or even knew what they were!) ... they stripped a bleeder valve and gave me a car with no brakes !
      I find it funny that the 240's had non sliding calipers and had 3 bleed screws per caliper....so the R brakes should not be anything special to the old timers especially.
      I used to work @ the Volvo dealer and did brake flushes probably once a day...(for maintainence)

      I would like to know how hard it is? or what makes to so hard?

    21. #21
      Junior Member Rues R's Avatar
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      So two bleed screws per caliper. So you basically just have to bleed each caliper twice (once from each valve) to make sure the whole caliper gets new fluid?

    22. #22
      Member jstro's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Rues R View Post
      So two bleed screws per caliper. So you basically just have to bleed each caliper twice (once from each valve) to make sure the whole caliper gets new fluid?
      You would open the first bleed valve a lot longer to make sure you get the brake line filled with new fluid, the second one you only have to open for a few seconds, you could probably even get by with just doing one, but for the extra 10 seconds it takes you might as well do both
      totally stock.. honest

    23. #23
      Junior Member Rues R's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by jstro View Post
      You would open the first bleed valve a lot longer to make sure you get the brake line filled with new fluid, the second one you only have to open for a few seconds, you could probably even get by with just doing one, but for the extra 10 seconds it takes you might as well do both
      Good knowledge to know! Learn something new everyday.

    24. #24
      Member VTT5's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by nWoods View Post
      Is there some reason that the car has to be level to bleed the brakes if I'm using a pressurized system like the power bleeder?
      Perfectly level, no, but make sure you're not on such an angle that the bleeder screws aren't at the highest point on the caliper -- no good if you can't get all the air out.
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    25. #25
      Quote Originally Posted by Doogwhan View Post
      Trying to flush fluid manually through the ABS unit will take forever, and as has been mentioned above you risk trashing your master cylinder if you help forgets the block of wood.
      I've done manual, two person brake fluid flushes many times on both my current R and former T5. It doesn't take long, maybe 15-20 pedal pumps for the longer rear lines. Never used a block of wood either. No problems at all, just don't let your fluid reservoir get low - and even if you do, you'll get a warning on the dash before there is any real problem (ask me how I know).
      Obviously, you do the brake flush with the key in position II (run) but the motor not actually running. That's what the ABS module wants.
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    26. #26
      Member inteller's Avatar
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      how many bottles of fluid did you end up needing to do this job? I'm getting ready to do my own and really dont feel like overbuying.
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    27. #27
      Quote Originally Posted by inteller View Post
      they bump you out of SCCA stock classes too.
      stock class...I wish

      Power bleeders work the best, and they allow you to bleed the clutch as well. I don't feel like reading the entire post, so if someone hasn't mentioned it yet, you want to make sure you bleed the inside of the caliper before you do the outside pots. this gets the cleanest fluid to all chambers by making sure that you are sucking 100% clean fluid to your outer pistons.
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    28. #28
      Also, you definitely want to make sure that your wheel is off, there are no "mechanical" disadvantages to leaving it on but that is a great way to destroy your rims ASAP.
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    29. #29
      Junior Member FjordMoCo's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Warpedcow View Post
      Obviously, you do the brake flush with the key in position II (run) but the motor not actually running. That's what the ABS module wants.
      Can you elaborate on this? I've been trying to get a good bleed for hours- 2-person, power bleeder, different sequences, and I just don't feel like I'm getting a firm enough pedal. Why position II?

    30. #30
      Member jstro's Avatar
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      car does not need to be on if you use a power bleeder, I am clueless as to why it would need to be on to bleed the brakes manually, probably something to so with the ABS I would guess.
      totally stock.. honest

    31. #31
      Member inteller's Avatar
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      does anyone know how the Volvo dealers change the fluid? Is standard procedure to bleed from a wheel or take it out the top? I notice VIDA shows both methods but does not advocate one over the other.
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    32. #32
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      Quote Originally Posted by jstro View Post
      You don't "have" to bleed the clutch, you will just have soem old fluid miked in with your new stuff. It would be optimial to bleed the clutch too but it not like baby seals will be clubbed if you don't
      I read somewhere that the absorbed water in old brake fluid, collects at the lowest point of the system. In the Manual Transmission case, this wold be the Slave cylinder. Any truth to that? It would explain some of the "my clutch went to the floor" events.

      When my clutch dropped to the floor the first time, just by flushing the brakes with new fluid, I got the clutch function back. But I think flushing the clutch would be the preferred way to do it right.
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    33. #33
      Member jstro's Avatar
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      Yes it woud be best to bleed the as well as you get a more complete fluid replacement. I really cannot comment on the water collecting at the lowest point, as I have not heard that before, I guess it would make sense but I really don't know
      totally stock.. honest

    34. #34
      Regarding bleeding the clutch: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...-clutch-system

      Regarding choice of fluid I stuck with DOT 4+ which has the recommend (thinner) viscosity for the ABS 'micro valves'. Not sure how important this is but since I'm not tracking my R I decided that Motul 5.1 (ie DOT 4+) is my preference.

      http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...id-questions#3


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    35. #35
      Quote Originally Posted by FjordMoCo View Post
      Can you elaborate on this? I've been trying to get a good bleed for hours- 2-person, power bleeder, different sequences, and I just don't feel like I'm getting a firm enough pedal. Why position II?
      Position II (run position) means the ABS and computers are active. I was told by a knowledgeable friend who has done this sort of bleed on dozens of cars that this is the "safest" way to do it.

      If you're not getting a firm pedal, it's probably because you stop pumping the pedal before your friend closes the bleed valve. You need to keep pumping until it's closed. Close it during a PRESS of the pedal, not during the return stroke.
      2002 Volvo S60 T5 5M (SOLD) - ECU, intake, exhaust - 2:05 at BIR long course || 2006 Volvo S60R 6M Sonic Blue (RIP - saved my life) - 2:03.5 at BIR long course - 2:00 at BIR short course - Road Trip Pics - My HD Trackday Videos - Loud enough for ya? || 2007 Volvo S80 V8 (his), Barents Blue, 35% tint, Sport Package (4C), Heated and Cooled Seats, IPD Rear Sway Bar || 2011 Volvo XC70 T6 (hers), Oyster Grey, 35% tint, IPD Rear Sway Bar

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