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Brake Fluid Flush

35K views 35 replies 20 participants last post by  FineProperty 
#1 ·
It's time to flush my brake fluid and I'm hoping this is something within my abilities. I've never done it before, but it's my first car so I've got to start somewhere right? :confused:

(I'm not going at this as half hazardly as that sounds... hence the questions)

I was hoping to hear some pointers, shortcuts, techniques, must have tools on the R, etc.

Currently I was just planning to do the two-person method (one pumping the break while the other bleeds it), but I've seen some other products out there. I'm considering a Power Bleeder based on some good reviews on some other threads, but not sure it's necessary.

Is there a walkthrough on the site that I haven't been able to find?
 
#3 ·
Get a motive brake bleeder... There are two versions a regular and a black label that has better components... Though the cheaper one will work perfectly fine. Then once it is setup bleed farthest from the resivoir to closest, I think it goes, Right rear, left rear, right front, left front, and me personally I would bleed the system using the right rear caliper bleeder until you see clean or new fluid cap it all up actuate the clutch about 10-20 times to get the fluid to blend in and then go through the entire process so that you get it as clean as possible as the clutch uses the same fluid resivoir as the brakes.
 
#4 ·
If you are going to be flushing the brakes, replace the lines with some SS lines. I ordered a set from TireRack and so far so good and the pedal feel is very noticeable.
 
#5 ·
I respectfully disagree, I think they are a waste of money unless you're doing really serious track stuff with the car. I have Motul 600, TiSpeed Shims, Ferodo race pads, and stock lines, and my pedal feel is fine during hour-long track sessions.
 
#6 ·
So, for the flush you're bleeding the brake fluid from the caliper right? If you can access it through your rims should you still remove the wheel? I'm thinking yes because it's so corrosive to paint and a little mistake could ruin your wheels? Is there a mechanical reason also?
 
#10 · (Edited)
Get the power bleeder.

Trying to flush fluid manually through the ABS unit will take forever, and as has been mentioned above you risk trashing your master cylinder if you help forgets the block of wood.

The Motive unit and the fluid will cost you about what the dealership would charge. Spend a little up front, and enjoy cheap painless brake fluid changes from here on out. With two Volvo's and two VW's it has brought my price-per-flush waaaay down.

+1 to taking the wheels off. Being lazy would actually be more work in this case.

Brief how for the bleeder from the time I almost drowned my R
http://www.volvo-forums.com/index.php?showtopic=25434&hl=motive+power
 
#12 ·
Get a power bleeder of some sort. Makes it a one man job. I did it from the furthest caliper to the nearest caliper to the master cylinder. But as I understand it, the actual order is from nearest to furthest (?)
 
#13 ·
Don't forget you have 8 bleeder screws, 2 per wheel, 4 outer (visible looking through the wheel) and 4 inner, in same spot on caliper (up high), but inside.

I spent hours one night getting that information...
 
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#20 ·
Not only were they clueless (4-pot brakes --- they've never seen them or even knew what they were!) ... they stripped a bleeder valve and gave me a car with no brakes !
I find it funny that the 240's had non sliding calipers and had 3 bleed screws per caliper....so the R brakes should not be anything special to the old timers especially.
I used to work @ the Volvo dealer and did brake flushes probably once a day...(for maintainence)

I would like to know how hard it is? or what makes to so hard?
 
#14 ·
^^^^ (All great information and advice) +1
 
#15 ·
+1 on the above.

Most important thing is to take your time on any task you haven't done before. Make sure you have a day(or even a weekend) completely free. If you get stuck or something doesn't seem to be going right. STOP!! and figure it out. In the end it will be even more satisfying you fixed it and some Ahole didn't screw something up like Petew mentioned.
 
#16 ·
Guys,
I am planning on doing this also. I just got my 06 S60R acouple months ago. 1 Question, does the clutch need to be bled also? Seeing KMG S60R's earlier post,"cap it all up actuate the clutch about 10-20 times to get the fluid to blend in and then go through the entire process so that you get it as clean as possible as the clutch uses the same fluid resivoir as the brakes. "
,it does not appear as if that needs to be done, but wanted to see if some could clarify.
 
#32 ·
I read somewhere that the absorbed water in old brake fluid, collects at the lowest point of the system. In the Manual Transmission case, this wold be the Slave cylinder. Any truth to that? It would explain some of the "my clutch went to the floor" events.

When my clutch dropped to the floor the first time, just by flushing the brakes with new fluid, I got the clutch function back. But I think flushing the clutch would be the preferred way to do it right.
 
#18 ·
Is there some reason that the car has to be level to bleed the brakes if I'm using a pressurized system like the power bleeder?

I've only got two jack stands and am about to move to a place without a garage, so I'm hoping to hold off getting more stuff for car maintenance.

I was hoping to jack up the back, remove those wheels and bleed the brakes, then move to the front. I know it would be quicker to do all the wheels at once, but I don't mind the extra time. I know I would have to be careful not to let the lowest point of the reservoir get too low since it would be sloped and I definitely don't want air in the lines! But, is there another reason that the car needs to be level that I'm not thinking of?
 
#24 ·
Is there some reason that the car has to be level to bleed the brakes if I'm using a pressurized system like the power bleeder?
Perfectly level, no, but make sure you're not on such an angle that the bleeder screws aren't at the highest point on the caliper -- no good if you can't get all the air out.
 
#22 ·
You would open the first bleed valve a lot longer to make sure you get the brake line filled with new fluid, the second one you only have to open for a few seconds, you could probably even get by with just doing one, but for the extra 10 seconds it takes you might as well do both
 
#26 ·
how many bottles of fluid did you end up needing to do this job? I'm getting ready to do my own and really dont feel like overbuying.
 
#28 ·
Also, you definitely want to make sure that your wheel is off, there are no "mechanical" disadvantages to leaving it on but that is a great way to destroy your rims ASAP.
 
#31 ·
does anyone know how the Volvo dealers change the fluid? Is standard procedure to bleed from a wheel or take it out the top? I notice VIDA shows both methods but does not advocate one over the other.
 
#34 ·
#36 ·
Lots of bleeding threads I could have revived, this one was on my screen. Having read through most I though I'd note that pulling the airbox isn't that tough, and it allows you to retighten the clutch bleeder by hand to stop the flow. Cleaning the airbox, mass air flow, and filter while in there was good too. I used a motive bleeder and Motul.
 
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