S60R/V70R Engine Oil: What's the best?
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    1. #1

      S60R/V70R Engine Oil: What's the best?

      Title says it all. I've been using Royal Purple thus far. About to hit 81k miles and due for an oil change, and I'm contemplating whether I should switch over to AMSOIL or go with Mobil1 (cheaper than both oils where I live). What do you guys use and what do you think is the best oil for the money/protection/performance etc?
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    2. #2
      Member TJM 04S60R's Avatar
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      I run mobil1 5w-30 synthetic. I am about due for my second oil change but have had no issues in about 5kwith it. Level has not dropped so oil burn is minimal from what I can tell. I may switch to amsoil as my brother may be able to get it a bit cheaper, but very happy with mobil1 in this and other cars. My brother has been running amsoil in his Toyota Tundra for several changes and really likes it.
      2013 Cadillac ATS 2.0T - Silver, RWD 6MT
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    3. #3
      This is the Amsoil oil I was planning on using: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/asl.aspx

      15,000 mile service interval, and its $9.15/quart. The initial investment might be costly ($55 in oil w/o shipping), but many of us use Royal Purple or Mobil1 every 5k miles. In those 15k miles, the price to do 3 oil changes can range well above $100 easily (especially with RP prices).
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    4. #4
      I've always run AMSOIL and couldn't be happier. A bit pricey, but the old man is an AMSOIL dealer. Would I still use it if he wasn't a dealer?.... probably.

    5. #5
      Quote Originally Posted by RBFtmd View Post
      I've always run AMSOIL and couldn't be happier. A bit pricey, but the old man is an AMSOIL dealer. Would I still use it if he wasn't a dealer?.... probably.
      Do you run the same kind as the link ( SAE 5W30), 0W-30, XL, etc? What filter do you use? I just emailed IPD regarding the service life of the Mahle filter.
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    6. #6
      Member TJM 04S60R's Avatar
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      My brothers co worker is a dealer, or dad is or whatever..... I know he gets the 5w30 for 6 bucks a qt. and just stops at the guys house to pick it up. That is the only reason I am considering it.

      My issues with going so far on service is the filters used on the R. The manual says to go 7500 with regular oil, but even that feels a bit much to me. I have always been told run synthetic in turbo motors and given the filters plan to stick to the 5000 mile rule. I guess you could change the filter during that service interval if you don't mind getting a bit messy and then adding a qt or so for what would be lost. I get mobil1 locally for just over $7 and if my brother can double his normal order for amsoil I will make the change, if not mobil1 it is.
      2013 Cadillac ATS 2.0T - Silver, RWD 6MT
      TOTALED 1/10/12 -[/COLOR]2004 S60R Black Sapphire/Gobi, 55K Miles, 6MT
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    7. #7
      Also, Amsoil recommends a "engine flush" prior to switching from a conventional/synthetic to their brand of engine oils.

      http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/install-...-motor-oil.php
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    8. #8
      Member TJM 04S60R's Avatar
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      I have read and remember my brother doing that when he switched. I am pretty sure her ran if for 10k and changed it. Then another 10k and sent in a sample which showed it was still good and had all kinds of info/stats that I didn't bother reading. either way he likes it and now runs 10 -15k between changes.
      2013 Cadillac ATS 2.0T - Silver, RWD 6MT
      TOTALED 1/10/12 -[/COLOR]2004 S60R Black Sapphire/Gobi, 55K Miles, 6MT
      IPD: R Kelly W/ K&N, Upper Mount, HD Trans Mount, Polly Stabilizer Bushings, Boost Gauge in Bezel Pod. Phuz: HD TCV
      Viva: HD CBV Snabb: Intake Pipe TME: Lowering Springs DEM Heat Sheild Part# 30783129.

    9. #9
      If anything, I might use their OE 5W-30 ( $5.50/qt) w/ the Mahle filter. Emailed them regarding the service interval of the OE oil (doesn't state it on their product page like the rest of the oils).
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    10. #10
      Member s140s's Avatar
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      I have a new Mahle filter if you want it. Pretty much any reputable brand synthetic will do it. Castrol, M1,Total, Royal Purple, Amsoil(better than Royal). Change the oil after 5-6k miles, not worth to run in past that milage.
      2005 Volvo s60r Black Saphire/Nordkap MT, PhMIC, iPd DP, Heico Exhaust, Volutions, Trak Spec F&R Sways, IPD Stage 2, R Kelly Intake , SS Brake Lines, HD Coils, Viva forge CBV, R Boost Gauge , Strut Brace, GROM Aux Input, CB Radio....
      2001 BMW 530i Alphine White
      2004 Volvo s60r 6MT Black Sapphire/ Nordcap Sold and Missed 11/20/09

    11. #11
      I'm picking up some Mobil1 from my cousin in a few min and a filter. Might sell it/return it if I change my mind and switch over to Amsoil. I don't think its worth getting the "black label" Amsoil (the 35k mile/ 1 year recommended oil change), simply because like you and TJM said, the Mahle probably wont last past 5000-7500 and continue to filter contaminants efficiently. Paul I think you should store that filter for that SonicKap R
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    12. #12
      Member BeerEngineer's Avatar
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      Mobile 1. 0-W40 in the winter. Says the man with German Castrol in his engine.
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      Quote Originally Posted by aldebaran View Post
      the curves are really beautiful, I couldn't stop touching it.

    13. #13
      Castrol EDGE 10W-30 here. 5,000 mile intervals, OEM filters. No Pistons through the firewall yet!

    14. #14
      I was going use 10W-30 synthetic when I first got the car because our summers easily exceed 90+ degrees and 5W-30 is good up to 86 degrees. Ended up following the owners manual and went through with 5.
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    15. #15
      Member Short Circuit's Avatar
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      Does any company make an aftermarket filter (fitting the P2R cars) which lasts longer than stock filter to enable these extended oil changes? Is it just a matter of a "longer length" filter for us w/same diameter?
      SOLD!!! 2005 S60R. Mods: IPD (Stage 2 ECU, Trak Spec F&R sways, 3" DP, HD-TCV, HD-coils, HD-endlinks, SS brake lines), HEICO (CATback, 18" Volution wheels), Phuz PhMIC, JRL resonator delete, RKelly CAI, PLX OLED Boost Gauge, VST roof spoiler, 35% 3M window tint, other littler things.

    16. #16
      I believe autozone had a filter but I'm going to check it out again and see if its the R one. I think it was made by FRAM and it was around $15.
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    17. #17
      Senior Member phuz's Avatar
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      If you have an Advance Auto, they are usually a few bucks cheaper there.

      Randy: I have never seen an aftermarket filter for extended length, but places like Rockauto and ThePartsBin have a awesome deals on filters. You can get Bosch or ACDelco for around $6. Fram is around $9. It works out if you buy them in bulk.
      Matt
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    18. #18
      Member Short Circuit's Avatar
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      Matt - I understand what you're saying. What I'm trying to figure out is if there is a good match between use of a high-grade extended oil (say 8K-10K miles+ between oil changes) matched with an extended life filter, so one doesn't have to get under the car and change a filter 1/2 way thru the serviceable life of the engine oil. Only thought I had would be a longer filter (more surface area than stock) with same diameter for proper fitment...
      SOLD!!! 2005 S60R. Mods: IPD (Stage 2 ECU, Trak Spec F&R sways, 3" DP, HD-TCV, HD-coils, HD-endlinks, SS brake lines), HEICO (CATback, 18" Volution wheels), Phuz PhMIC, JRL resonator delete, RKelly CAI, PLX OLED Boost Gauge, VST roof spoiler, 35% 3M window tint, other littler things.

    19. #19
      Senior Member phuz's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Short Circuit View Post
      Matt - I understand what you're saying. What I'm trying to figure out is if there is a good match between use of a high-grade extended oil (say 8K-10K miles+ between oil changes) matched with an extended life filter, so one doesn't have to get under the car and change a filter 1/2 way thru the serviceable life of the engine oil. Only thought I had would be a longer filter (more surface area than stock) with same diameter for proper fitment...
      Well, Fram makes the Extended Guard filter which is a 10k mile filter.
      Matt
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    20. #20
      Quote Originally Posted by phuz View Post
      If you have an Advance Auto, they are usually a few bucks cheaper there.

      Randy: I have never seen an aftermarket filter for extended length, but places like Rockauto and ThePartsBin have a awesome deals on filters. You can get Bosch or ACDelco for around $6. Fram is around $9. It works out if you buy them in bulk.
      I would just order the OEM filters (Mahle) from IPD. If you buy in bulk they're 10 for $45 + shipping or $4.95 each + shipping if bought individually.

      http://www.ipdusa.com/version.asp?st...=382&V_ID=1252

      IMO, extended drain intervals don't make sense on a high output turbo engine, but if for some reason I wanted to run super long drain intervals, I would just switch the filter half-way through and top off the oil to make up for what was lost in the filter change.

      FYI, based on Adykes filter testing, the ACDelco and Bosch filters are identical and are of higher quality than the Fram, which is identical to the K&N and Mann filters. Actually, the Fram and K&N filters are just re-packaged filters made by Mann.

      http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?112718
      Last edited by soupandspoons; 01-19-2011 at 08:45 AM.
      04 VR Ti/Atacama MT

    21. #21
      It is all personal preference, like Coke or Pepsi. The only way to decide what is best for you is to have a used oil analysis (UOA) done and go from there. Newer SM oils have lower levels of anti-wear additives compared to the SL categories - but you have to do your research and become informed.

      When I had my R, I used GC 0W30 (you can not go wrong with a 0W30 year-round!) and ran it 7,500 miles between changes with the OEM filter. The UOA showed that I could have gone much longer - and I did not granny-drive by any means. If you change synthetic oil at lower mileage, like 2,500 - 3,000, you are just wasting your money.

      All that being said, I run Mobil1 High Mileage 5W30 (SL) in both my '03 Cobra and '03 Aviator even thought they both have low miles on them! Better levels of anti-wear additives and conditioners...
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    22. #22
      Senior Member phuz's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by soupandspoons View Post
      I would just order the OEM filters (Mahle) from IPD. If you buy in bulk they're 10 for $45 + shipping or $4.95 each + shipping if bought individually.

      http://www.ipdusa.com/version.asp?st...=382&V_ID=1252

      IMO, extended drain intervals don't make sense on a high output turbo engine, but if for some reason I wanted to run super long drain intervals, I would just switch the filter half-way through and top off the oil to make up for what was lost in the filter change.
      Wow, I never even knew that. Good to know!

      I agree with you on that. I see how dirty a filter gets after 5k miles. Even with an "extended" filter, that dirt has to go somewhere and I would rather keep it clean. I don't know the "extended life" technology so maybe it's magical
      Matt
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    23. #23
      I'm at 140K miles. The engine absolutely purrs. Stil has great get up and go. Other expensive components are failing left and right. I have used only the standard non-synthetic oil the dealer puts in. I cut the 7,500 recommended interval in half (usually). R people tend to love to write about their cars; the bad and the good. They like to talk about their cars; the bad and the good. Are there any documented engine failures caused by using standard oil at 7,500 miles intervals? I am thinking Audi/Volkswagen sludge problem. I have never read a post on SS where someone blamed an engine failure on standard oil. Do I think it is likely that using full synthetic will extend engine life? Yes, it probably will. But if that extended life means getting 300,000 out of the engine instead of 200,000, what's the point? I see no reason why my engine will not last until 200,000 or more. Not so sure the rest of the car will. What percentage of people here will buy and keep their cars past 200,000 miles? Even past 100,000 miles?

    24. #24
      Senior Member phuz's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MaggieV View Post
      I'm at 140K miles. The engine absolutely purrs. Stil has great get up and go. Other expensive components are failing left and right. I have used only the standard non-synthetic oil the dealer puts in. I cut the 7,500 recommended interval in half (usually). R people tend to love to write about their cars; the bad and the good. They like to talk about their cars; the bad and the good. Are there any documented engine failures caused by using standard oil at 7,500 miles intervals? I am thinking Audi/Volkswagen sludge problem. I have never read a post on SS where someone blamed an engine failure on standard oil. Do I think it is likely that using full synthetic will extend engine life? Yes, it probably will. But if that extended life means getting 300,000 out of the engine instead of 200,000, what's the point? I see no reason why my engine will not last until 200,000 or more. Not so sure the rest of the car will. What percentage of people here will buy and keep their cars past 200,000 miles? Even past 100,000 miles?
      To my knowledge, there are no documented cases. The few engine failures (oil related) were because of the oil pump failing (happened on my '01 T5). We use the synthetics for added protection because most of us are neurotic fools who love our cars too much
      Matt
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    25. #25
      Member TJM 04S60R's Avatar
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      +1 and guilty of being a neurotic fool. I am running synthetic just because I was always told too when it comes to a turbo motor. Plus I do all my own changes so the extra few bucks a quart doesn't mean anything compared to the piece of mind. Plus I have run synthetic in other cars, my brother does in his truck and my father in his 2500 chevy diesel. All of them run smoother and the diesel saw better mileage after the switch. so to each their own but I don't see me ever running the extended life oils based solely on the mahle filter.
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    26. #26
      Member ZenZone's Avatar
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      IMO, Mobil 1 is a poor choice for those of us who choose to tune and run the R engine to it's limits. It will eventually shear and fail to provide upper cylinder wall, ring, valve guide lubrication. An ester based oil like Motul 300v is the best choice for engine longevity.
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    27. #27
      Senior Member phuz's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ZenZone View Post
      IMO, Mobil 1 is a poor choice for those of us who choose to tune and run the R engine to it's limits. It will eventually shear and fail to provide upper cylinder wall, ring, valve guide lubrication. An ester based oil like Motul 300v is the best choice for engine longevity.
      I never heard this, but it inspired me to start searching google.
      Cool vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3cChm-dqZts
      Matt
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      2006 Volvo S60R - 6MT: FMIC, DP, Autotech Tune
      2012 Volvo XC60 T6 R-Design (Wife)
      1993 S13 - 2JZGTE, PT6262 @ 26psi, HKS 272s, Haltech PS2000, 1000cc, Meth, 4" FMIC

    28. #28
      Quote Originally Posted by ZenZone View Post
      IMO, Mobil 1 is a poor choice for those of us who choose to tune and run the R engine to it's limits. It will eventually shear and fail to provide upper cylinder wall, ring, valve guide lubrication. An ester based oil like Motul 300v is the best choice for engine longevity.
      Depends on how educated you are about oil. Most people have no clue about API ratings, how to read UOA's, what viscosity means, etc., etc.

      The newer Mobil1 stocks are all SM rated, which is why I run the High-Mileage SL oils - higher levels of zinc and phosphorus. The GC 0W30 I used to use had higher levels of ZDDP in it and I could have easily ran it for 15,000 miles (based on my own UOA's) with one filter change in between. Of course if you race the car, all that changes...
      2006 S60R 6MT>>>>>> SOLD on 6/12/10

    29. #29
      Member kmg_S60R's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Skot53 View Post
      Castrol EDGE 10W-30 here. 5,000 mile intervals, OEM filters. No Pistons through the firewall yet!
      2nd that! +++
      06 Ti Grey SR w/Sport Pkg, Manual, (IPD)>Stage II, AMS w/custom AEM Dry Flow, 3in DP, Track Sway Bars, HD Endlinks, Boost Gauge, Silicone Vac Lines, Upr Engine Mnt, HD Trans Mount. SNABB Intake & Short Shifter,IPD 3" Oval Exhaust, Phuz HD TCV, Viva HD CBV, Wg 7psi, Port Matched/Polished Intake Manifold, Victory Performance FMIC w/IMEC, Labonte Stg II H2O/Meth Injection. http://www.dragtimes.com/Volvo-S60-Timeslip-19306.html

    30. #30
      Member ZenZone's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by phuz View Post
      I never heard this, but it inspired me to start searching google.
      Cool vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3cChm-dqZts
      Phuz, No exaggeration when I say the performance increase in my VR was drastic. I have posted about the noticeable decrease in friction. With the Motul 300V, my 0-60 pull is fairly hard in first, then WOT in 2nd to 60+ mph. 0-60 times are low 5's all day long. The time really depends on how hard I hit it in 1st. Blot said he's been using Motul 300V in SR for four years both DD and track with no complications. Before trying the 300V, I tried one cycle of Motul 8100 X-Cess 5W-40. It was smoother but not as noticeable as the 300V.

      To the OP, in general it depends on your driving style. I will never use any Mobil 1 product again. The only M1 formulation close to the original from the 80's and 90's is the diesel version. M1 does vary as JGoffin mentioned. I just don't think M1 holds up to extended high RPM driving and will eventually result in premature engine wear. I did a lot of research to determine this - just wish I had done it sooner.

      Thanks
      2005 V70R, Fully Loaded Stealth Wagon - SOLD on 19 Jan '13 (Went to a good 2nd owner)

    31. #31
      Member ZenZone's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Skot53 View Post
      Castrol EDGE 10W-30 here. 5,000 mile intervals, OEM filters. No Pistons through the firewall yet!
      +2 on Castrol. We are running the same in our 2005 V50 T5 GT and '98 S70 T5 5MT. Great oil!!
      2005 V70R, Fully Loaded Stealth Wagon - SOLD on 19 Jan '13 (Went to a good 2nd owner)

    32. #32
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      Quote Originally Posted by phuz View Post
      To my knowledge, there are no documented cases. The few engine failures (oil related) were because of the oil pump failing (happened on my '01 T5). We use the synthetics for added protection because most of us are neurotic fools who love our cars too much
      I know thats the category I fall into.

    33. #33
      Senior Member phuz's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ZenZone View Post
      Phuz, No exaggeration when I say the performance increase in my VR was drastic. I have posted about the noticeable decrease in friction. With the Motul 300V, my 0-60 pull is fairly hard in first, then WOT in 2nd to 60+ mph. 0-60 times are low 5's all day long. The time really depends on how hard I hit it in 1st. Blot said he's been using Motul 300V in SR for four years both DD and track with no complications. Before trying the 300V, I tried one cycle of Motul 8100 X-Cess 5W-40. It was smoother but not as noticeable as the 300V.

      To the OP, in general it depends on your driving style. I will never use any Mobil 1 product again. The only M1 formulation close to the original from the 80's and 90's is the diesel version. M1 does vary as JGoffin mentioned. I just don't think M1 holds up to extended high RPM driving and will eventually result in premature engine wear. I did a lot of research to determine this - just wish I had done it sooner.

      Thanks
      I'm no chemist and I know very little about the composition of oils so I tend to go with the flow in terms of popularity and proven performance. Since our cylinder blocks are sleeved, I definitely want the oil that will provide me with the optimum lubrication for the entire surface area of the cylinder walls AND give me the best thermal reduction on those walls. While the increase in performance is a nice bonus, I would much rather have the added protection in high stress scenarios.
      Matt
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      2006 Volvo S60R - 6MT: FMIC, DP, Autotech Tune
      2012 Volvo XC60 T6 R-Design (Wife)
      1993 S13 - 2JZGTE, PT6262 @ 26psi, HKS 272s, Haltech PS2000, 1000cc, Meth, 4" FMIC

    34. #34
      Member jstro's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by phuz View Post
      I'm no chemist and I know very little about the composition of oils so I tend to go with the flow in terms of popularity and proven performance. Since our cylinder blocks are sleeved, I definitely want the oil that will provide me with the optimum lubrication for the entire surface area of the cylinder walls AND give me the best thermal reduction on those walls. While the increase in performance is a nice bonus, I would much rather have the added protection in high stress scenarios.
      So, just curious, are you saying tha Motul offers less "thermal reduction" that other oils? Also isn't the mail purpose for oil to lubricate and thermal reduction is really done by your ECU fuel dumping or optional water injection (besides of course the cooling system)?
      totally stock.. honest

    35. #35
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      I use AMSOIL 0w30. Go on their website and pay the $20 and become a preferred customer and the $10.50 a qt. for the 0w30 becomes $8.10 or something. But it's a good savings when you do 2 changes a year for 3 cars.
      - Ara

      "It's more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow."

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