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    1. #36
      Senior Member phuz's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by jstro View Post
      So, just curious, are you saying tha Motul offers less "thermal reduction" that other oils? Also isn't the mail purpose for oil to lubricate and thermal reduction is really done by your ECU fuel dumping or optional water injection (besides of course the cooling system)?
      No, not at all. it sounds like Motul has better thermal protection than other oils. I definitely have some reading to do. I have always been on board with using Mobil 1 but if there is a superior oil in terms of lubrication and thermal protection...consider me sold.
      Matt
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      2006 Volvo S60R - 6MT: FMIC, DP, Autotech Tune
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    2. #37
      Quote Originally Posted by phuz View Post
      No, not at all. it sounds like Motul has better thermal protection than other oils. I definitely have some reading to do. I have always been on board with using Mobil 1 but if there is a superior oil in terms of lubrication and thermal protection...consider me sold.
      There definitely is a lot more to oil than just that. Everyone should learn to read a UOA and know what the various material levels mean, especially Zinc & Phosphorus. Also, you have to consider viscosity, evaporation (or volatility), and much more. It all comes down to McDonalds vs. Burger King, Coke vs. Pepsi, Dominoes vs. Papa Johns, etc. Everyone has their personal preference.

      For the OP using Royal Purple, it boils down to how much you want to spend, or not spend. RP, Amsoil, & Redline are some of the top tier oils out there. Again, I use the Mobil1 High-Mileage since it has comparable levels of ZDDP (since it is an API SL oil) whereas many other standard synthetic brands are SM oils and have reduced anti-wear additives so the Fed's can mandate longer catalyst life. I now avoid Castrol since BP owns them...
      Last edited by jrgoffin; 01-19-2011 at 03:59 PM.
      2006 S60R 6MT>>>>>> SOLD on 6/12/10

    3. #38
      Quote Originally Posted by jrgoffin View Post
      There definitely is a lot more to oil than just that. Everyone should learn to read a UOA and know what the various material levels mean, especially Zinc & Phosphorus. Also, you have to consider viscosity, evaporation (or volatility), and much more. It all comes down to McDonalds vs. Burger King, Coke vs. Pepsi, Dominoes vs. Papa Johns, etc. Everyone has their personal preference.

      For the OP using Royal Purple, it boils down to how much you want to spend, or not spend. RP, Amsoil, & Redline are some of the top tier oils out there. Again, I use the Mobil1 High-Mileage since it has comparable levels of ZDDP (since it is an API SL oil) whereas many other standard synthetic brands are SM oils and have reduced anti-wear additives so the Fed's can mandate longer catalyst life. I now avoid Castrol since BP owns them...
      Great info. Do you recommend to put a little bit of lucus oil engine oil stabilizer? http://www.lucasoil.co.uk/products/10001.jpg
      Sold : 2005 SR MT Black Sapphire Metallic/Nordkap
      Mods: bone stock

    4. #39
      Quote Originally Posted by iLLEST-R View Post
      Great info. Do you recommend to put a little bit of lucus oil engine oil stabilizer? http://www.lucasoil.co.uk/products/10001.jpg
      No!

      if you are already using RP, why try to fix what isn't broken...
      2006 S60R 6MT>>>>>> SOLD on 6/12/10

    5. #40
      Quote Originally Posted by jrgoffin View Post
      No!

      if you are already using RP, why try to fix what isn't broken...
      Touche, haha it was just a question! No but I use it on the old Tercel w/ conventional oil. 130k miles and it runs like new. I know its not common, but was wondering if it would enhance RP or M1 at all.
      Sold : 2005 SR MT Black Sapphire Metallic/Nordkap
      Mods: bone stock

    6. #41
      Amsoil emailed back and so did IPD. According to IPD, they suggest running 5k mile oil intervals with the volvo/mahle oil filter. Amsoil sent me a list of tests in their reply which is listed below. Enjoy!

      Hi Jay,

      Thank you for contacting us.

      AMSOIL AEF Flush has been developed with many years of research and development. AEF is probably the safest engine flush that you can use to clean the engine (or transmission). Just add one bottle of AEF to the engine oil before the oil change and let it idle for 15-20 minutes. Drain the oil hot and replace new oil and filter (do not drive with AEF in the oil).

      AMSOIL makes 4 oils in different price points for the 2004 VOLVO S60R 2.5L 5-cyl Engine Code [52] B5254T4 Turbo

      Maximum Performance Signature Series 0W-30 100% Synthetic Motor Oil (SSOQT)
      http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/amsoil/0...or-Oil-SSO.php

      Maximum Performance SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (ASLQT)
      http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/5w30-sae-motor-oil-asl.php

      Performance Plus XL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (XLFQT)
      http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/5w30-xl-...-motor-oil.php

      Performance Synthetic 5W30 OE Motor Oil (OEFQT)
      http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/amsoil/o...hp?product=oef

      For the wholesale price list please refer
      http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/private/...price-list.php

      To buy wholesale please add preferred customer program to your order
      Refer: http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/amsoil/p...tomer-zone.php

      AMSOIL outperforms Royal Purple, please refer
      http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/dyno-test.php (scroll down for Wear Metal & Horsepower Test results)

      Products for Palatine, Illinois will be shipped factory direct from our Chicago, Illinois distribution center. Preferred customers can pick up products directly from the warehouse (not open for public). To set up your PC account please visit http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/amsoil/p...tomer-zone.php. After registration (within 24 hours), we will email your account details & the warehouse address.

      Contact us if you should have further questions.



      Sincerely,

      Sales & Support
      www.worldsbestoil.ca
      Sold : 2005 SR MT Black Sapphire Metallic/Nordkap
      Mods: bone stock

    7. #42
      Junior Member nucciOMG's Avatar
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      Hey guys quick question- how much oil do our Rs need???
      2004 S60 R GT Dipped/Gobi 18" OZ Chrono HT. Hilton tune. iPd DP, Custom 3" Heico exhaust & QTP wireless cutout. CX FMIC. VIVA CBV. iPd Poly torque mount. iPd B4 servo update. iPd Poly stabilizer kit. iPd Poly Engine mount. Elevate AMS. iPd HD end links. iPd HD spring seats. LED conversion, DDM 6000K HID fogs and heads. V1. GROM iOS+BT.

    8. #43
      5.5 qts
      Sold : 2005 SR MT Black Sapphire Metallic/Nordkap
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    9. #44
      Member s140s's Avatar
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      5.8qts
      2005 Volvo s60r Black Saphire/Nordkap MT, PhMIC, iPd DP, Heico Exhaust, Volutions, Trak Spec F&R Sways, IPD Stage 2, R Kelly Intake , SS Brake Lines, HD Coils, Viva forge CBV, R Boost Gauge , Strut Brace, GROM Aux Input, CB Radio....
      2001 BMW 530i Alphine White
      2004 Volvo s60r 6MT Black Sapphire/ Nordcap Sold and Missed 11/20/09

    10. #45
      or 5.8. Just go with 6 quarts and when you're on your 5th quart, monitor how much more you need to top it off.
      Sold : 2005 SR MT Black Sapphire Metallic/Nordkap
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    11. #46
      Member s140s's Avatar
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      I am confused now, I remember my R manual said 5.8qts for the R, online s60 manual specifies 5.5qts. You need to buy 6qts and fill until its at proper level.
      2005 Volvo s60r Black Saphire/Nordkap MT, PhMIC, iPd DP, Heico Exhaust, Volutions, Trak Spec F&R Sways, IPD Stage 2, R Kelly Intake , SS Brake Lines, HD Coils, Viva forge CBV, R Boost Gauge , Strut Brace, GROM Aux Input, CB Radio....
      2001 BMW 530i Alphine White
      2004 Volvo s60r 6MT Black Sapphire/ Nordcap Sold and Missed 11/20/09

    12. #47
      Yeah I just said 5.5 because that's what Amsoil stated, but I never pay attention to the tenths'. Just get the 5 in and gradually pour in the 6th one until its topped off.
      Sold : 2005 SR MT Black Sapphire Metallic/Nordkap
      Mods: bone stock

    13. #48
      Junior Member nucciOMG's Avatar
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      Thanks fellas!
      2004 S60 R GT Dipped/Gobi 18" OZ Chrono HT. Hilton tune. iPd DP, Custom 3" Heico exhaust & QTP wireless cutout. CX FMIC. VIVA CBV. iPd Poly torque mount. iPd B4 servo update. iPd Poly stabilizer kit. iPd Poly Engine mount. Elevate AMS. iPd HD end links. iPd HD spring seats. LED conversion, DDM 6000K HID fogs and heads. V1. GROM iOS+BT.

    14. #49
      Member ions's Avatar
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      It says using an engine flush before using AMSOIL oil for the first time but isn't there a sensor/seal that will be messed up in the R's oil pan if we do this that monitors the oil?

      I was told not to use additives and things (seafoam) and just use oil because of this "sensor" or am I just crazy lol
      2005 Volvo S60R Ti/Nordkap *NAV, Climate Package, Premium Package, 18" Flat Black Retarded Flying Horse Wheels, 10mm spacers (all around), Engine Stabilizer Upper Polyurethane Bushing, HD Polyurethane Transmission Mount, Polyurethane Upper Engine Mount, GROM iPOD unit, 2 10" Infinity Subs, Phuzzy Motorsports HD-TCV, 3.5" Air Intake, Green Calipers, UR Brace Bars (Upper Front and Rear), IPD DEM Shield*

    15. #50
      Quote Originally Posted by iLLEST-R View Post
      Amsoil emailed back and so did IPD. According to IPD, they suggest running 5k mile oil intervals with the volvo/mahle oil filter. Amsoil sent me a list of tests in their reply which is listed below. Enjoy!

      Hi Jay,

      Thank you for contacting us.

      AMSOIL AEF Flush has been developed with many years of research and development. AEF is probably the safest engine flush that you can use to clean the engine (or transmission). Just add one bottle of AEF to the engine oil before the oil change and let it idle for 15-20 minutes. Drain the oil hot and replace new oil and filter (do not drive with AEF in the oil).

      AMSOIL makes 4 oils in different price points for the 2004 VOLVO S60R 2.5L 5-cyl Engine Code [52] B5254T4 Turbo

      Maximum Performance Signature Series 0W-30 100% Synthetic Motor Oil (SSOQT)
      http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/amsoil/0...or-Oil-SSO.php

      Maximum Performance SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (ASLQT)
      http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/5w30-sae-motor-oil-asl.php

      Performance Plus XL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (XLFQT)
      http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/5w30-xl-...-motor-oil.php

      Performance Synthetic 5W30 OE Motor Oil (OEFQT)
      http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/amsoil/o...hp?product=oef

      For the wholesale price list please refer
      http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/private/...price-list.php

      To buy wholesale please add preferred customer program to your order
      Refer: http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/amsoil/p...tomer-zone.php

      AMSOIL outperforms Royal Purple, please refer
      http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/dyno-test.php (scroll down for Wear Metal & Horsepower Test results)

      Products for Palatine, Illinois will be shipped factory direct from our Chicago, Illinois distribution center. Preferred customers can pick up products directly from the warehouse (not open for public). To set up your PC account please visit http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/amsoil/p...tomer-zone.php. After registration (within 24 hours), we will email your account details & the warehouse address.

      Contact us if you should have further questions.



      Sincerely,

      Sales & Support
      www.worldsbestoil.ca
      That is all the typical marketing material that Amsoil has been sending out for years. Nothing new.

      The 5,000 mile "recommended" interval is only one opinion among many. YOU have to decide what interval is best for YOU based on YOUR driving conditions. That is one of the reason a UOA comes in handy. Changing a good synthetic oil at low intervals is a waste of YOUR money. I could have easily gone 15,000 miles on GC 0W30 and even Amsoil recommends long intervals with a filter change in between.
      2006 S60R 6MT>>>>>> SOLD on 6/12/10

    16. #51
      I run Mobil 1 10w-30 in the summer and 5w-30 in the winter. I change the oil every 5-6K, or sooner if a track day is involved. I bought the car with about 16K miles, it now has 87K miles and burns pretty much no oil.

      Any full synthetic in the correct viscosity will be fine for 99% of us. I read from a reputable source that Mobil 1 survives overheating much better than the other synthetics, so I run that. Of course, overheating shortens the life of ANY oil. Though that was a few years ago so who knows now.
      2002 Volvo S60 T5 5M (SOLD) - ECU, intake, exhaust - 2:05 at BIR long course || 2006 Volvo S60R 6M Sonic Blue (RIP - saved my life) - 2:03.5 at BIR long course - 2:00 at BIR short course - Road Trip Pics - My HD Trackday Videos - Loud enough for ya? || 2007 Volvo S80 V8 (his), Barents Blue, 35% tint, Sport Package (4C), Heated and Cooled Seats, IPD Rear Sway Bar || 2011 Volvo XC70 T6 (hers), Oyster Grey, 35% tint, IPD Rear Sway Bar

    17. #52
      Member Blurry's Avatar
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      Until the dipstick is at the full mark.
      - Ara

      "It's more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow."

      2004 SR_MT_Metalic Silver_Nordkap_17" Pegs_Stock_169K

    18. #53
      Senior Member 850arrrsaylikepirate's Avatar
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      Did someone say oil?

      2006 S60R - Black Sapphire~Nordkap~GT~iPd Track Spec Sways~TME Springs~TME DP-Exhaust~Bell FMIC~iMIV~E-Codes
      2009 XC90 3.2 AWD - aka the kiddo hauler
      1997 4x4 Nissan - Fook mi this thing is slow

    19. #54
      Quote Originally Posted by 850arrrsaylikepirate View Post
      Did someone say oil?

      Sold : 2005 SR MT Black Sapphire Metallic/Nordkap
      Mods: bone stock

    20. #55
      Quote Originally Posted by ions View Post
      It says using an engine flush before using AMSOIL oil for the first time but isn't there a sensor/seal that will be messed up in the R's oil pan if we do this that monitors the oil?

      I was told not to use additives and things (seafoam) and just use oil because of this "sensor" or am I just crazy lol
      Emailed IPD regarding this.
      Sold : 2005 SR MT Black Sapphire Metallic/Nordkap
      Mods: bone stock

    21. #56
      Quote Originally Posted by Warpedcow View Post
      I run Mobil 1 10w-30 in the summer and 5w-30 in the winter. I change the oil every 5-6K, or sooner if a track day is involved. I bought the car with about 16K miles, it now has 87K miles and burns pretty much no oil.

      Any full synthetic in the correct viscosity will be fine for 99% of us. I read from a reputable source that Mobil 1 survives overheating much better than the other synthetics, so I run that. Of course, overheating shortens the life of ANY oil. Though that was a few years ago so who knows now.
      That's what I'm going to do this upcoming year. First oil change was w/ RP 5W-30. Swapping 10W in the summer and 5W in the winter was my original plan with whatever oil I was planning on ordering. You use the Mahle filter correct?
      Sold : 2005 SR MT Black Sapphire Metallic/Nordkap
      Mods: bone stock

    22. #57
      Quote Originally Posted by iLLEST-R View Post
      That's what I'm going to do this upcoming year. First oil change was w/ RP 5W-30. Swapping 10W in the summer and 5W in the winter was my original plan with whatever oil I was planning on ordering. You use the Mahle filter correct?
      You should stick with the 5w30 or even a 0w30 year round. Whether it is a 0w30, 5w30, or a 10w30, they all have one thing in common - they are all 30 weight oils. The first number only tells you how easy the oil will flow at a cold temperature - so you want something that flows the best on the initial crank - that would be a 0w30 or 5w30.

      Most cars nowadays can run a 0w30 or 5w30 all year, Florida or even Minnesota. Using a 10w30 in the summer and switching to a 5w30 in the winter is pretty pointless with today's synthetic oils.
      2006 S60R 6MT>>>>>> SOLD on 6/12/10

    23. #58
      Quote Originally Posted by jrgoffin View Post
      You should stick with the 5w30 or even a 0w30 year round. Whether it is a 0w30, 5w30, or a 10w30, they all have one thing in common - they are all 30 weight oils. The first number only tells you how easy the oil will flow at a cold temperature - so you want something that flows the best on the initial crank - that would be a 0w30 or 5w30.

      Most cars nowadays can run a 0w30 or 5w30 all year, Florida or even Minnesota. Using a 10w30 in the summer and switching to a 5w30 in the winter is pretty pointless with today's synthetic oils.
      Um, despite both having the "30" in the name, a 5w30 does NOT protect in hot temperatures just as well as a 10w30.

      From our very own owner's manual:
      https://www.customers.volvocars.com/..._11a.htm#pg142
      See the graph?


      Now, the 0w30 does appear to match the 10w30 even though 5w30 doesn't. However, 0w30 isn't available in Mobil 1, so that's not an option... my guess is it costs a lot more.
      2002 Volvo S60 T5 5M (SOLD) - ECU, intake, exhaust - 2:05 at BIR long course || 2006 Volvo S60R 6M Sonic Blue (RIP - saved my life) - 2:03.5 at BIR long course - 2:00 at BIR short course - Road Trip Pics - My HD Trackday Videos - Loud enough for ya? || 2007 Volvo S80 V8 (his), Barents Blue, 35% tint, Sport Package (4C), Heated and Cooled Seats, IPD Rear Sway Bar || 2011 Volvo XC70 T6 (hers), Oyster Grey, 35% tint, IPD Rear Sway Bar

    24. #59
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      Quote Originally Posted by Warpedcow View Post
      However, 0w30 isn't available in Mobil 1, so that's not an option... my guess is it costs a lot more.
      My car is due for an oil change so I was checking my local O'Reilly store for Castrol 0W-30 when I noticed that they have Mobil 1 synthetic on sale for $4.99/qt. Also discovered that Mobil 1 makes a 0W-30 with "Advanced fuel economy" and also a 0W-30 one for racing. Not sure what all is entailed with the 'advanced fuel economy" so I'm sticking with Castrol for now.

      http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/...l_1_0w-30.aspx

      http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/...ing_0w-30.aspx
      Last edited by Svensk R; 01-21-2011 at 11:52 AM.

    25. #60
      Quote Originally Posted by Warpedcow View Post
      Um, despite both having the "30" in the name, a 5w30 does NOT protect in hot temperatures just as well as a 10w30.

      From our very own owner's manual:
      https://www.customers.volvocars.com/..._11a.htm#pg142
      See the graph?


      Now, the 0w30 does appear to match the 10w30 even though 5w30 doesn't. However, 0w30 isn't available in Mobil 1, so that's not an option... my guess is it costs a lot more.
      The graph in the owners manual is generic at best. The only way you will be able to tell how well the oil has maintained it's viscosity (i.e., "protected" your engine) is to do a Used Oil Analysis (UOA) and have it read that way. If you actually do some research, you will find that that the cSt (centiStoke) value of the 30-weight oils is about identical, whether there is a 0, 5, or 10 before the 30. Again, the "weight" of an oil is an arbitrary designation (look up SAE J300 on the internet) - it is the viscosity that matters.

      Also, since you are so sure that Mobil1 does not make a 0w30 oil, here is some information that you wil probably find helpful:

      http://www.mobil.com/usa-english/mot...duct_guide.pdf
      Last edited by jrgoffin; 01-21-2011 at 12:14 PM.
      2006 S60R 6MT>>>>>> SOLD on 6/12/10

    26. #61
      Quote Originally Posted by Svensk R View Post
      My car is due for an oil change so I was checking my local O'Reilly store for Castrol 0W-30 when I noticed that they have Mobil 1 synthetic on sale for $4.99/qt. Also discovered that Mobil 1 makes a 0W-30 with "Advanced fuel economy" and also a 0W-30 one for racing. Not sure what all is entailed with the 'advanced fuel economy" so I'm sticking with Castrol for now.

      http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/...l_1_0w-30.aspx

      http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/...ing_0w-30.aspx
      If you are going to keep using a 0w30, then the GC is actually the better choice (actually Redline, Amsoil, and RP are probably even better than that). The newer API SM formulations of motor oil have less zinc & phosphorus in them to supposedly give the catalytic converters a longer life. If you reference the Mobil1 Product Guide that I linked to the above posts, it actually lists the values for the "anti-wear" additives. Notice the lower values in most with the exception of the Race & High Mileage oils. If you do a UOA of the CG, Redline, Amsoil, & RP oils, you will see that the zinc & phosphorus levels are higher than the standard SM levels.

      I personally use the M1 High Mileage 5w30 in both my Ford 4.6 engines even though one has 18,000 miles and the other has 50,000 miles - just because of the better additives. It's mainly because I have been pretty partial to M1 stuff all along (including gear lubes, transmission fluid, etc.). If I were to switch, I'd go to Redline, but them again, I like the freebies from the Mobil1Rewards program!
      2006 S60R 6MT>>>>>> SOLD on 6/12/10

    27. #62
      Quote Originally Posted by jrgoffin View Post
      Also, since you are so sure that Mobil1 does not make a 0w30 oil, here is some information that you will probably find helpful:

      http://www.mobil.com/usa-english/mot...duct_guide.pdf
      I meant it isn't available for sale at the places I buy my oil - I know it exists. My post was vague though... whoops.
      2002 Volvo S60 T5 5M (SOLD) - ECU, intake, exhaust - 2:05 at BIR long course || 2006 Volvo S60R 6M Sonic Blue (RIP - saved my life) - 2:03.5 at BIR long course - 2:00 at BIR short course - Road Trip Pics - My HD Trackday Videos - Loud enough for ya? || 2007 Volvo S80 V8 (his), Barents Blue, 35% tint, Sport Package (4C), Heated and Cooled Seats, IPD Rear Sway Bar || 2011 Volvo XC70 T6 (hers), Oyster Grey, 35% tint, IPD Rear Sway Bar

    28. #63
      Quote Originally Posted by Warpedcow View Post
      I meant it isn't available for sale at the places I buy my oil - I know it exists. My post was vague though... whoops.
      NP. Just my $.02, but if you are still a Mobil1 fan, you would be fine running the 0w30 all year. When it comes to track use, I would be throwing the 0w40 in for maximum shear resistance. Switching between 5w30 and 10w30 does nothing - Volvo really needs to update their service manual...
      2006 S60R 6MT>>>>>> SOLD on 6/12/10

    29. #64
      Quote Originally Posted by jrgoffin View Post
      Switching between 5w30 and 10w30 does nothing...
      Then why does Mobil 1 sell both? And why does every Walmart and Sam's Club around here carry both, right next to each other, in their stores? Does the 0w30 cost a lot more or something?
      With the driving I do, it's no big deal to switch - I do roughly 3 changes per year, so one 5w30 for the coldest four months and 10w30 for the other eight.
      2002 Volvo S60 T5 5M (SOLD) - ECU, intake, exhaust - 2:05 at BIR long course || 2006 Volvo S60R 6M Sonic Blue (RIP - saved my life) - 2:03.5 at BIR long course - 2:00 at BIR short course - Road Trip Pics - My HD Trackday Videos - Loud enough for ya? || 2007 Volvo S80 V8 (his), Barents Blue, 35% tint, Sport Package (4C), Heated and Cooled Seats, IPD Rear Sway Bar || 2011 Volvo XC70 T6 (hers), Oyster Grey, 35% tint, IPD Rear Sway Bar

    30. #65
      Quote Originally Posted by Warpedcow View Post
      Then why does Mobil 1 sell both? And why does every Walmart and Sam's Club around here carry both, right next to each other, in their stores? Does the 0w30 cost a lot more or something?
      With the driving I do, it's no big deal to switch - I do roughly 3 changes per year, so one 5w30 for the coldest four months and 10w30 for the other eight.
      It's all marketing and old standards, although something called a viscosity index may come in to play, but that is probably over the head of most.

      Modern engines are all designed to run at right around 200F...

      The way the oil is tested for "weight", the centiStoke measurement, is calculated at 100C, which amazingly enough is 200F. A 30 weight oil will come in with a value between 9.3 - 12.5 cSt - doesn't matter if it is 0w, 5w, or 10w. The first number just indicates the "pumpability" at low temperatures and is modified based on the additive package in the oil. Since most of the wear in an engine happens when you turn the key, your best bet is to use something that is going to flow the best right off the bat. I used the GC 0w30 year-round when I had my R and based on the UOA's after 7500 miles, it barely sheared. I didn't even bother thinking of using a 5w in the summer - it is pointless.

      Just for reference, the Mobil1 High Mileage 5w30 that I use has a cSt rating (again, at 100C) that is 11.48 whereas the 10w30 is 11.79. Both fall within the 9.3 - 12.5 range for a 30wt oil and the difference is negligible. Adding to that, the regular M1 5w30 comes in at 11.1 and the M1 10w30 is actually lower, at 10.7 - so if you want to split hairs, the 5w30 is actually "thicker"!!

      Personally, if you race your R and you see extended higher temps (above 200F), you are better off using a 40wt oil, so that if it shears down slightly, you are still keeping it in the 30wt range. Again, just my $.02.
      Last edited by jrgoffin; 01-21-2011 at 04:57 PM.
      2006 S60R 6MT>>>>>> SOLD on 6/12/10

    31. #66
      Member Blurry's Avatar
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      1,274
      Quote Originally Posted by MaggieV View Post
      I'm at 140K miles. The engine absolutely purrs. Stil has great get up and go. Other expensive components are failing left and right. I have used only the standard non-synthetic oil the dealer puts in. I cut the 7,500 recommended interval in half (usually). R people tend to love to write about their cars; the bad and the good. They like to talk about their cars; the bad and the good. Are there any documented engine failures caused by using standard oil at 7,500 miles intervals? I am thinking Audi/Volkswagen sludge problem. I have never read a post on SS where someone blamed an engine failure on standard oil. Do I think it is likely that using full synthetic will extend engine life? Yes, it probably will. But if that extended life means getting 300,000 out of the engine instead of 200,000, what's the point? I see no reason why my engine will not last until 200,000 or more. Not so sure the rest of the car will. What percentage of people here will buy and keep their cars past 200,000 miles? Even past 100,000 miles?
      Most of what you say is correct and in most instances it won't matter. For me, the reason I use a synthetic (AMSOIL 0w30) is for cold weather starts, better protection, extended oil changes (7500 miles for me) and most importantly for me, over the course of 100K, 200K, or even 300K of use if I get an additional 2-4 mpg which I do using synthetic, that is a big savings over the course of ownership.
      - Ara

      "It's more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow."

      2004 SR_MT_Metalic Silver_Nordkap_17" Pegs_Stock_169K

    32. #67
      Quote Originally Posted by Blurry View Post
      Most of what you say is correct and in most instances it won't matter. For me, the reason I use a synthetic (AMSOIL 0w30) is for cold weather starts, better protection, extended oil changes (7500 miles for me) and most importantly for me, over the course of 100K, 200K, or even 300K of use if I get an additional 2-4 mpg which I do using synthetic, that is a big savings over the course of ownership.
      Good call. If you are using a good synthetic oil and changing it at short intervals (like 3000 miles), you are just pi$$ing your money away.
      2006 S60R 6MT>>>>>> SOLD on 6/12/10

    33. #68
      Junior Member
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      The manual states to use Castrol Syntec, so that's what I use I also change oil at the manual recommended intervals.
      2007 S60R 6MT

    34. #69
      Quote Originally Posted by jrgoffin View Post
      Personally, if you race your R and you see extended higher temps (above 200F), you are better off using a 40wt oil, so that if it shears down slightly, you are still keeping it in the 30wt range. Again, just my $.02.
      I do track days and I wouldn't be surprised if my oil temps hit 260F or even a bit more at these events. Other guys have added temperature gauges for this and seen similar numbers. Mobil 1 supposedly survives these extreme temperatures better than other synthetics.
      2002 Volvo S60 T5 5M (SOLD) - ECU, intake, exhaust - 2:05 at BIR long course || 2006 Volvo S60R 6M Sonic Blue (RIP - saved my life) - 2:03.5 at BIR long course - 2:00 at BIR short course - Road Trip Pics - My HD Trackday Videos - Loud enough for ya? || 2007 Volvo S80 V8 (his), Barents Blue, 35% tint, Sport Package (4C), Heated and Cooled Seats, IPD Rear Sway Bar || 2011 Volvo XC70 T6 (hers), Oyster Grey, 35% tint, IPD Rear Sway Bar

    35. #70
      I barely burned any oil using RP 5W-30, and I did take the R on a few spirited highway runs (50-60 miles total each run). Changed the oil after 5,000 miles and the oil was a maroon color. Just waiting to see how my M1 turns out...


      Quote Originally Posted by Warpedcow View Post
      I do track days and I wouldn't be surprised if my oil temps hit 260F or even a bit more at these events. Other guys have added temperature gauges for this and seen similar numbers. Mobil 1 supposedly survives these extreme temperatures better than other synthetics.
      ^^ I'm sure RP and M1 are practically the same when it comes to burning oils and such. Here
      s a link I found regarding RP and increased HP : http://www.royalpurple.com/corvette-enthusiast.html
      Sold : 2005 SR MT Black Sapphire Metallic/Nordkap
      Mods: bone stock

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