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    1. #4691
      Front wheel alignment due to pulling to right side of the road.

      Reason found: the upper one of the 2 large bolts holding the left side shock adsorber was not completely tightened. Rot cause: the former owner had replaced both front shock assorbers, but the bolts were not cleaned from massive rust, so the nut did not hold the adsorber properly only slightly (however 200 Nm torque applied at the first try for tightening it).

      Even the knocking sound disappeared at cornering to right.

      I will keep the annual wheel alignment proposal - it worth the money (after purchased brand new set of winter and summer tyres).
      Last edited by zoli; 04-13-2017 at 12:01 AM.
      2001 VOLVO S60 2.0t A/T L5 230K miles
      1998 SAAB 9-5 2.0t M/T L4 ​281K miles retired
      1971 VW 1302 L 1.3 BOXER4 retired

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    3. #4692
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      Quote Originally Posted by Shamak View Post
      Car runs great. It's just that my car isn't "ready" for the emissions inspection. Ugh.
      Some more miles and drive cycles should fix that. =/ It sucks that the engine requires specific parameters and operation conditions to get it all ready. I'm sure what the exact drive cycle requirements for I/M readiness are somewhere online...
      2004 S60 2.5T - Stock for now...

    4. #4693
      Junior Member Shamak's Avatar
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      Been doin them but so far haven't worked


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      2007 S60 T5 M66 Titanium Grey/Graphite: Midir 18s (summer)/Orpheus 17s (winter), H&R Sport lowering springs, Koni Yellow Adjustable shocks/struts, R Brembo calipers, EBC slotted rotors, SS brake lines, IPD HD front/rear end links, H&R spacers: 10F/15R, IPD HD TCV, extended wheel lug conversion, muffler delete, tint

    5. #4694
      Engine oil, ATF Fluid and oil filter are changed.

      Giving for Total QE9 5W40 a try with Mahle OEM oil filter - old Mann was performing very well. Found only some burnt particles / soot, so additional 2 short OCI planned.

      Also learned very well the exact amount of ATF required by performing simple drain and fill techins: 3.8 litres enough (checked on the HOT marks after went through all gears by 10 seconds per shift).









      2001 VOLVO S60 2.0t A/T L5 230K miles
      1998 SAAB 9-5 2.0t M/T L4 ​281K miles retired
      1971 VW 1302 L 1.3 BOXER4 retired

    6. #4695
      Member ZZZZZZZ's Avatar
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      There yet?
      Been thinking about ya and this situation. Such great weather here this week!
      Quote Originally Posted by Shamak View Post
      Car runs great. It's just that my car isn't "ready" for the emissions inspection. Ugh.
      My initials - IPD - ZZZZZZZ's thread
      Now: 2007 vRgt, red & gobi - 2005 s60 2.5t AWD, silver & tan - 2002 xc70, silver & black
      Past: 1999 v70, tropic blue/green & oak and Mom started this in 1975 with a 1974 164e, maroon & maroon

    7. #4696
      Junior Member Shamak's Avatar
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      Not yet. Were in FL this week for Spring Break so the T5 is chillin in the garage.


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      2007 S60 T5 M66 Titanium Grey/Graphite: Midir 18s (summer)/Orpheus 17s (winter), H&R Sport lowering springs, Koni Yellow Adjustable shocks/struts, R Brembo calipers, EBC slotted rotors, SS brake lines, IPD HD front/rear end links, H&R spacers: 10F/15R, IPD HD TCV, extended wheel lug conversion, muffler delete, tint

    8. #4697
      Did my timing belt last weekend! Feels good to finally have that out of the way. Replaced with a Gates belt along with new tensioner, idler and water pump. And also replaced my plugs while I was at it. 215k miles and still running strong!

      Next up: pcv system and window tint lol.




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      2002 S60 2.4/NA - MT | BC Racing BR Series Coilovers | UR ST Brace, F&R Lower Chassis Brace, 25mm Rear Sway | Steinberg Adjustable Endlinks | iPd Rear Chassis Brace, SB Conversion, Poly Engine & Tranny Mount, Subframe Inserts | Custom 2.5in Catback w/ Magnaflow Muffler | K&N Hi-Flow Filter | OEM 05+ Complete Facelift | Enkei RSF5 18x8 (summer), VR5 17x8 (winter) | R Brake Conversion Brembo 4-pot Calipers, SS Braided Lines

    9. #4698
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      Quote Originally Posted by Shamak View Post
      Been doin them but so far haven't worked


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      That's really odd... Eventually it should be ready. I had that problem back in my Honda days. Long story short, turned out that the fuse that goes to the ECU memory was blown, had been for easily 8 years before it was discovered. That same fuse also goes to something with the radio, in which there was a known issue amongst Honda techs that replacing the factory radio with an aftermarket unit (which I did of course) would generally cause that fuse to blow out. And essentially the ECU is resetting itself every single time that the car is turned off. And of course when you pull into a smog station, you usually turn off the car to go inside and hand over the keys. Once I got that all figured out (took 2+ months to figure out), the MIL then informed me that I had a bad forward O2 sensor, doh!! She smogged perfectly after all of that. Not to say that this is your issue, because I doubt the ECU ties into a circuit with the radio in our cars, but there's gotta be a reason why it's not readying... Refresh my memory, has VIDA been run to make sure there's nothing that a code scanner wouldn't catch? Readiness entails the O2 sensors, the EVAP system and its purging and something else I forget... Maybe the gas tank filler cap too?
      2004 S60 2.5T - Stock for now...

    10. #4699
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      Quote Originally Posted by stonerzebra View Post
      Did my timing belt last weekend! Feels good to finally have that out of the way. Replaced with a Gates belt along with new tensioner, idler and water pump. And also replaced my plugs while I was at it. 215k miles and still running strong!

      Next up: pcv system and window tint lol.




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      Looks good!!

      I'll be doing my T\belt in the next weekend here myself, and am trying to get an idea from others that have done it of about how long it took, and what the most difficult part was you ran into with it. Also something I realized is that I may not have enough coolant to refill back with. I have one gallon of OEM Volvo coolant concentrate on hand, but my 2.5T uses 9.3 quarts I believe, so just over 2 gallons worth??
      2004 S60 2.5T - Stock for now...

    11. #4700
      Junior Member Shamak's Avatar
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      What did you do with your s60 today?

      Dang, i have about 7 quarts available. But ur too far...


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      2007 S60 T5 M66 Titanium Grey/Graphite: Midir 18s (summer)/Orpheus 17s (winter), H&R Sport lowering springs, Koni Yellow Adjustable shocks/struts, R Brembo calipers, EBC slotted rotors, SS brake lines, IPD HD front/rear end links, H&R spacers: 10F/15R, IPD HD TCV, extended wheel lug conversion, muffler delete, tint

    12. #4701
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      I feel like I'm an island here almost, so many east coasters, lol! Thanks for the thought Shamak! 👍 I have a pending iPD order that's delayed due to the H1 fog light bulb sockets I ordered. I'm going to call them first thing today to see if they can cancel the bulb sockets and send another gallon of coolant concentrate instead since its the same price! Fingers crossed...

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      2004 S60 2.5T - Stock for now...

    13. #4702
      Quote Originally Posted by Shamak View Post
      Not yet. Were in FL this week for Spring Break so the T5 is chillin in the garage.


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      Where in FL? I am in Panama City.


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      2006 Sonic V70R GT 132k, 2013 XC90 R Design Electric Silver 30K (The Wife's), 2015 Silverado High Country 1500 4WD Ruby Metallic 35k

    14. #4703
      Member T501's Avatar
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      Phixion,

      I guess you're doing water pump too? One gallon should be plenty. You won't lose all the coolant replacing the water pump.
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 177K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, HD coils, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 79k miles
      Wife -'13 C30 T5 R-Design Dad - '98 S70 T5 160K + miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD HD rear springs, SAS delete Mom -'10 S80 V8 Executive Sis - '02 S80 T6 Backup car -'13 S60 T5

    15. #4704
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      Quote Originally Posted by T501 View Post
      Phixion,

      I guess you're doing water pump too? One gallon should be plenty. You won't lose all the coolant replacing the water pump.
      Yup, water pump too. I wasn't sure how much coolant drains out, verses how much the system holds in total. I just figured that 2 gallons once the concentrate is mixed with water should be enough... It pays to read the manual though, LOL! I did want to flush all of the fluid out and start with totally fresh fluid though, not just what drains from the pump area and block...

      EDIT: On iPD's website where they list various model fluid capacities, the S60 coolant (initial fill) capacity is listed as 7 liters which is 7.39 quarts or 1.84 gallons, thus I should have enough of. Not sure what initial fill means as that seem to represent total fill for some capacity listings for other fluids...
      Last edited by Phixion; 04-17-2017 at 12:28 PM.
      2004 S60 2.5T - Stock for now...

    16. #4705
      I bought 2 gallons of coolant from Volvo and 2 gallons of distilled water. Didn't even use a gallon of coolant when I refilled but I only drained from the radiator I didn't completely drain everything. Sometime over the summer I'll probably do a complete flush and replace all my coolant hoses.

      In terms of how long everything took me, I'd say like 4-6 hours with the assistance of my father. First time doing a t-belt job (but my father has done plenty) so I was pretty thorough and didn't rush anything. I'd say the most difficult part is getting the belt back on and making sure none of your camshaft pulleys moved. Everything else is pretty straight forward.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      2002 S60 2.4/NA - MT | BC Racing BR Series Coilovers | UR ST Brace, F&R Lower Chassis Brace, 25mm Rear Sway | Steinberg Adjustable Endlinks | iPd Rear Chassis Brace, SB Conversion, Poly Engine & Tranny Mount, Subframe Inserts | Custom 2.5in Catback w/ Magnaflow Muffler | K&N Hi-Flow Filter | OEM 05+ Complete Facelift | Enkei RSF5 18x8 (summer), VR5 17x8 (winter) | R Brake Conversion Brembo 4-pot Calipers, SS Braided Lines

    17. #4706
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      Thanks! Getting the belt back on seems to be the toughest part. Did you remove the crank pulley or leave it on?

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      2004 S60 2.5T - Stock for now...

    18. #4707
      Member T501's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Phixion View Post
      Thanks! Getting the belt back on seems to be the toughest part. Did you remove the crank pulley or leave it on?

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      I've only done it with the pulley off because I was replacing the crank seal at the same time. Most techs do it with the pulley in place so it can be done. Taking the pulley off isn't that easy either so give it your best shot before removing the pulley.
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 177K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, HD coils, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 79k miles
      Wife -'13 C30 T5 R-Design Dad - '98 S70 T5 160K + miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD HD rear springs, SAS delete Mom -'10 S80 V8 Executive Sis - '02 S80 T6 Backup car -'13 S60 T5

    19. #4708
      Quote Originally Posted by Phixion View Post
      Thanks! Getting the belt back on seems to be the toughest part. Did you remove the crank pulley or leave it on?

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      I'm assuming you're referring to the harmonic balancer? If yes then I took it off. Four (10mm?) bolts and the 30mm bolt, which you need an impact gun to remove. I pretty much just followed VADIS instructions and even watched the fcp video.
      2002 S60 2.4/NA - MT | BC Racing BR Series Coilovers | UR ST Brace, F&R Lower Chassis Brace, 25mm Rear Sway | Steinberg Adjustable Endlinks | iPd Rear Chassis Brace, SB Conversion, Poly Engine & Tranny Mount, Subframe Inserts | Custom 2.5in Catback w/ Magnaflow Muffler | K&N Hi-Flow Filter | OEM 05+ Complete Facelift | Enkei RSF5 18x8 (summer), VR5 17x8 (winter) | R Brake Conversion Brembo 4-pot Calipers, SS Braided Lines

    20. #4709
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      I know the FCP video of it well, lol! I don't have air tools, just a 24v cordless impact wrench, but I doubt it's up to the task of the balancer bolt, isn't on with 120+ lbs/ft of torque not to mention the fact that it SPINS? I'll try the belt change without removing that first. Thanks everyone!
      2004 S60 2.5T - Stock for now...

    21. #4710
      Quote Originally Posted by Phixion View Post
      I know the FCP video of it well, lol! I don't have air tools, just a 24v cordless impact wrench, but I doubt it's up to the task of the balancer bolt, isn't on with 120+ lbs/ft of torque not to mention the fact that it SPINS? I'll try the belt change without removing that first. Thanks everyone!
      I just used my Craftsman 1/2" cordless impact didn't have to break out the air tools. Took some penetrating lubricant and heat but it came off. Using an impact gun will not make the pulley spin - but using any sort of hand tool will, which obviously is how you line your timing marks up (make sure this is done before it comes off! lol). It torques to 130 ft/lbs.

      I suppose it doesn't really need to come off though, I just don't know how much room you'll have to slip the belt underneath it to get it on the crank pulley. Good thing is your crank pulley won't really move when taking your belt on and off. It's mostly your intake and exhaust cams you have to make sure stay lined up. But honestly it's going to be pretty obvious if you're off a tooth.
      2002 S60 2.4/NA - MT | BC Racing BR Series Coilovers | UR ST Brace, F&R Lower Chassis Brace, 25mm Rear Sway | Steinberg Adjustable Endlinks | iPd Rear Chassis Brace, SB Conversion, Poly Engine & Tranny Mount, Subframe Inserts | Custom 2.5in Catback w/ Magnaflow Muffler | K&N Hi-Flow Filter | OEM 05+ Complete Facelift | Enkei RSF5 18x8 (summer), VR5 17x8 (winter) | R Brake Conversion Brembo 4-pot Calipers, SS Braided Lines

    22. #4711
      I replaced the gaskets in the heater

    23. #4712
      Quote Originally Posted by Ethegar View Post
      I replaced the gaskets in the heater

    24. #4713
      Member T501's Avatar
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      What gaskets?
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 177K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, HD coils, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 79k miles
      Wife -'13 C30 T5 R-Design Dad - '98 S70 T5 160K + miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD HD rear springs, SAS delete Mom -'10 S80 V8 Executive Sis - '02 S80 T6 Backup car -'13 S60 T5

    25. #4714

    26. #4715
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      Quote Originally Posted by stonerzebra View Post
      I just used my Craftsman 1/2" cordless impact didn't have to break out the air tools. Took some penetrating lubricant and heat but it came off. Using an impact gun will not make the pulley spin - but using any sort of hand tool will, which obviously is how you line your timing marks up (make sure this is done before it comes off! lol). It torques to 130 ft/lbs.

      I suppose it doesn't really need to come off though, I just don't know how much room you'll have to slip the belt underneath it to get it on the crank pulley. Good thing is your crank pulley won't really move when taking your belt on and off. It's mostly your intake and exhaust cams you have to make sure stay lined up. But honestly it's going to be pretty obvious if you're off a tooth.
      That's good to know! Yeah, marking everything off is probably the most important, lol! I plan to mark using White Out on both the cam gears and the belt right at the cam gear marks, and then at the crank and crank mark. Then later on I'll match the old belt with new and make marks on the new to match the ones on the old. I've heard that's a good way to set up the new belt. My understanding is that things can get a half or whole tooth off once dialing in the tensioner. Of course once all is done, give it a few cranks by hand to make sure nothing is hitting and no more resistance is present than when I began.
      2004 S60 2.5T - Stock for now...

    27. #4716
      Stopped by ipd for some new bushings


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    28. #4717
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      Quote Originally Posted by Bryce Anderson View Post
      Stopped by ipd for some new bushings


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      Totally jealous... That you can visit them in person!

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      2004 S60 2.5T - Stock for now...

    29. #4718
      Haha yeah it's really nice!


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    30. #4719
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      After parking on the street in front of my house yesterday and watching gas running out of the fuel pump area, I ripped out the back seat and found bad things. Since I have an 02 S60 AWD i have the fuel pump issue. Never fails, can't just be the giant 'O' ring/gasket, no, that would be easy. So, got it all apart and found out it is shooting fuel out the top. This is the 4th 02 P2 that I have seen this issue on. 2 on my P2's and 2 on friends. All of the cars were originally from Nebraska or Colorado. No help on fuel pump recall. So I got up this morning and ran to the junk yard and pulled a fuel pump out of a 04 S60 AWD with just under 100k on it. Got back to the house and started the swap. That is where the fun started. First, forgot I had a near full tank of gas. Second, the fuel pumps are not the same. Actually they probably are but they hook up differently. So I had to figure out how to effectively re-wire the new to me fuel pump to the old wiring. After a 4 hour job, all is working and the only gas smell is from the gas that spilled into my shoes. Car runs great and gas guage is more accurate. I figure with gas not getting pumped out the top to spill all over, the gas mileage might go up some. After fixing the same issue on my XC I gained about 3mpg around town and about 5mpg on the highway.

      BTW, that fuel pump wrench that looks like a strange kings crown, that thing is a god send. Was able to get the plastic retaining ring out in like 15 seconds vs the 2 days it took to do in my XC. I had to use a screw driver and hacksaw for that one.
      2002 S60 AWD (171,000 mi, stock so far, FOUND third gear)
      2002 V70XC (185,000 mi, was Daily driver now burnt exhaust valves on #4)
      1995 Saab 9000 CS (ZF Gertrag Auto, over 250,000 mi. 30+ mpg back-up car)
      1994 Saab 900 Turbo Classic Convertible (Auto, 124,000 mi, parade car)
      NEVER REMOVE THE 27mm BOLT, BAD THINGS HAPPEN

    31. #4720
      Junior Member Shamak's Avatar
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      Thx for the write up.


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      2007 S60 T5 M66 Titanium Grey/Graphite: Midir 18s (summer)/Orpheus 17s (winter), H&R Sport lowering springs, Koni Yellow Adjustable shocks/struts, R Brembo calipers, EBC slotted rotors, SS brake lines, IPD HD front/rear end links, H&R spacers: 10F/15R, IPD HD TCV, extended wheel lug conversion, muffler delete, tint

    32. #4721
      rip


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    33. #4722
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      😱
      What's going on there?

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      2004 S60 2.5T - Stock for now...

    34. #4723
      Quote Originally Posted by Phixion View Post

      What's going on there?

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      Blew an axle so took the opportunity to do front pads and rotors as well as lower control arm bushings, inner tie rods, and ball joints.


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    35. #4724
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      Quote Originally Posted by Bryce Anderson View Post
      Blew an axle so took the opportunity to do front pads and rotors as well as lower control arm bushings, inner tie rods, and ball joints.


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      Good call! Always good to take advantage and do what you can while things are apart. What axle are you replacing the blown one with?

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      2004 S60 2.5T - Stock for now...

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