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Brake Caliper bracket Torque specs

28K views 21 replies 7 participants last post by  T5spdstr 
#1 ·
This is my third attempt to get some information regarding how much torque is required when installing the caliper support bracket, and the caliper slider bolts on a 2005 S40 T5 AWD, with 320mm fronts, and 300mm rears.

Please, please, please....I'm sure someone on the forums has this info.

HQ
 
#2 ·
I just did my rear brakes. Same car.
I torqued the pins to 22 ft lbs.
I torqued the brackets to 44 ft lbs.
I used new bolts.
The wheel lugs are (I think, I have to look in the manual) 64 ft lbs. I always get confused with the 940...that uses 65 ft lbs.
 
#6 ·
OK , Un-Pack take to Room for - Look Over .

Going to do some Measurements for SS - Site .

OK - Got some Stuff - also had to take Photo's & Change all the sizes - etc. - Up - load etc.

First I order 2 front caliper to replace stock OEM with - just in case .

First Thing the Tq. on the Guide Pins on these was right at : 36 - 40 ft lb. with 4 Drops of Red .

 
#9 · (Edited)
Took some Measurement : If I leave out anything ask I might be able to get it .
Center Distance on the Pins that Go Into Guides = 4.098

Pin Dia. @ Bottom = .4710 - .4712 / same pin @ Top = .4718 - .4720 - looked due to Swedging
Not a Taper .

First Pin was slight larger : .4730- .4732 @ Bottom @ Top .4738 - this leads Me to say Our Pins
could Go .474-.475 for a Snugger Fit , would that help the Judder or Shudder ?

A Nice Bronze Guides & SS Pins - mostly would take these Brakes Up a Notch !

ALSO : The Mounting Centerline Distance 3.5409 , so they were shooting for 3.5400 - 3.5420 !


 
#10 ·
Part Number - well You saw the FoMoCo 975 - The Guide Bushings : 780-33237 / Dust Shield : WDI 23471

Picture Part Number Name :

 
#11 ·
Now it seems I Have a New Caliper that is : D.O.A.. --- That's Right a Freaking Reject - BUSTED ! - noticed this like in 13 sec. out of the Box

 
#13 ·
So which part is Effd, the boot, the caliper not same height around where the boots seals or the piston is in at an angle pulling on the boot? Or did they not fully seat the boot on that side and that is what is causing the gap?

Those are Remans I hope, if new sure an awful lot of tools marks!
 
#14 ·
Dust Boot Material is like .015-.020 thk. - If You look at the Pic with Boot Help Up - You'll see a Thk. Stiff Ridge about .025 thk X .036 Dp. - No Groove , Hence - the Word - just - Grooveeeee : LOL
 
#15 · (Edited)
Also on Material - Back Half of Our Rotor is in fact Aluminum - so the RS & St - Copied Us .
The RS500 on the other Hand has - similar but looks to have 2 pucks - most likely an Up Graded Pin Guide Package .

It would seem then We could fit 330 rotors would really be Nice for a Comparison - possibly it's just different Pads ?

It is also 68 Degrees in My Basement , for those wondering about the Measurements ( Eye of the I ) - I-I
 
#16 ·
Thanks a bunch MGC. After all of the fuzz I created, it doesn't seem right that I also found info at the library (Chilton's European car edition for 2005 and 2006) regarding the torque specs. They listed the pins at 22 lb-ft, and the brackets at 52 lb-ft. This conforms to the accepted bolt size spec as far as torque; to whit, M8 bolt is 24 lb-ft, and the M10 is 50 lb-ft. If you look at the bracket bolts, they are M10.9. Also, I have used a torque value of 65 lb-ft on the wheels in the past, and the car just didn't handle, or seem as tight as before, plus it had shimming. So upon further research, It turns out that the wheel torque should be 85 lb-ft. After re-torquing the wheels to 85, it eliminated the looseness I felt before, and there was no shimming. Just to be on the safe side, do some more research on the bracket torque, and definitely confirm the torque spec on the wheels. Again, thanks for your help.
 
#18 ·
Thanks a bunch MGC. After all of the fuzz I created, it doesn't seem right that I also found info at the library (Chilton's European car edition for 2005 and 2006) regarding the torque specs. They listed the pins at 22 lb-ft, and the brackets at 52 lb-ft. TI have used a torque value of 65 lb-ft on the wheels in the past, and the car just didn't handle, or seem as tight as before, plus it had shimming. So upon further research, It turns out that the wheel torque should be 85 lb-ft. After re-torquing the wheels to 85, it eliminated the looseness I felt before, .
You are welcome. I struggled to get the same information and located the bracket torque online.
I was not 100% sure it was correct but I assumed that with the new bolts and fresh torque patches I was good.
44 is about what you get to with a 1/2 drive when you tighten tight but don't reef on it. I may go back and tighten a bit more though. Thanks.

For the wheels, I think what you are noting is pretty strange.
I've run these wheel at 64 for several years without any problems.
Same for my spare wheels.
The 940 I do set to 65. My V70 is set to 82.
I have enjoyed the absurd cost of replacing all of my lugs so I make a real issue over keeping the V50 at 64.
If I have work done on the car, I re-torque when I get home....
And I always have to argue at the shops since their computer tells them 85 foot pounds. Anyway, thanks for the bracket info.
 
#17 · (Edited)
What does The Book have on the Hub Lugs ?

There's also the lightweight 2 pc. Lug Nut that usually has an Issue with Air Guns ( Lug Nut has a lower rating ) .




I also can see these Air Guns bending the Pins - those should be Hand done , cleaned and Greased - Plus all Dust shields -Inspected every time New Rotor & Pads are done .
 
#19 · (Edited)
I'm now looking into a Lower Cost - Caliper & 320 mm Package ( Rotor is 1.18 with Curved Vanes ) Nice Cooling & 30mm thk. so HD - Rotor .

Solid 4 Puck Calipers - I'm digging up all the Spec's - seeing it cost $220.00 for Cryo'd Rotors - which seems You really have to have in order to do any sort of Performance Driving .

Only other Choice would be to get making a Custom Guide Pin Package Like these !

http://store.bimmerworld.com/solid-brake-guide-kit-p46.aspx
 
#20 ·
EngTech-

I know this is an old thread, but maybe you can help me. I recently changed my rotors/pads on same model ('05 s40 T5 320mm), but in the process of removing calipers, I untorqued one of the "star" bolts at the bottom of the caliper, as seen in your pic above, and it fell out & was lost! Obviously this is meant to hold the caliper together, not meant to be removed. Went to dealer to get replacement bolt, they say you can't buy the bolt, you must buy an entire new caliper for $250!?!?

Any help you can shed would be great!! Can i get a replacement bolt and just torque it back in myself, or is the caliper integrity compromised now that i've been driving on it minus one bolt??

Thanks!
 
#21 · (Edited)
I'd remove one of the By moving up on the Toque wrench from a low setting to a Higher setting , trying each Time to Remove Bolt
with - Out - Clicking the Tq. Wrench to Find needed Tq. setting !
( Approx put You in the ball Park )

Looking at Bolt in Picture - It does have some Marks , so It is Hardened , that Caliper was a rebuilt and Sand Blasted , so I can't make out the Marks . Let Me look around .

ps: Get a Big Magnet - Find - that Mother ! - - ( looks like a 10.9 rated )
pss: If You take one of the others Out - run over to ( Most Good Hardware store ) or call and ask they have a MM - Thread Size Checker .

Push comes to shove - still can't find one .
I'd also Add then many Volvo Dealer's do swap out's on Calipers , seems they might have a Caliper , Is so ask to have 1 Bolt Please , as they
will still get Paid - the Core Fee back !


Psss: I Know You able to get them in Titanium !
 
#22 ·
I swapped out my 300 mm OEM calipers with these 320mm calipers along with the 320mm rotors. I purchased the calipers from Ebay; these calipers are the same as Mazda3 speed 2007. I rebuilt them sand blasted them, inspected the seals and the cylinder. They sell replacement seals at Oreilly.
 
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