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Downpipe Install

38K views 163 replies 25 participants last post by  the_blaze 
#1 ·
Hi all. had a box from EST sitting on my porch last night. Wondering how difficult it is to swap out the stock DP with the EST DP? is this doable on jack stands or am i better off taking it to a shop for a pro install?
any input is appreciated.
 
#2 ·
LOL i just got mine today also .. supposedly the 3 bolts on the turbo are a PITA so make sure you just hit them with alot of PB befor you do it. but should be do able.. atleast thats what im gonna do .. my whole exhaust should be done by wed next week.
 
#3 ·
I would definitely hit those upper nuts with some Freeall, PB blaster, Rostoff or something to get those loosened up. Seen a lot of the studs break off, which is why we will usually order up hardware replacements just in case.

Long as you go slow and if you feel some friction go back and forth with the hardware you can usually walk them off without any issues.
 
#4 ·
I had 60k when I changed mine. Took longer to get the old DP fished out from the car than it did to break the bolts loose and tighten the new one up, heh.

Honestly, wasn't as bad as I thought it would be, the bolts broke loose easy enough, looked brand spankin new too. You should have seen the size of the wrench I had to use to get them off, small little guy, no leverage, still got to it though.

Start to finish, maybe 4 hours on jack stands. Took me longer to remove and replace my CBV.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I've done it and yes it is very possible to do it on Jacks.
That said it was much work...

I did the entire exhaust system (downpipe + exhaust CAT & muffler) at once. Removing the exhaust in the rear was a big pain but you are not doing that.

The most difficult when on jacks is that it is hard to get leverage under the car to remove bolts which tend to be quite tight? You also have to wait the car is cool or you’ll make the matter worst.
Removing the turbo bolts was really hard but using some PB penetrating oil they eventually loosened.
Second most difficult part was removing the second CO sensor (after the catalytic converter). I did not have the special wrench and it would have been much easier if I did have one. IPD sales one. The sensor is EXTREMELY tight and using regular tool you have a chance to round the hex. It almost happened to me. FYI, to make it easier, you can disconnect the sensor line and attack the CO sensor removal comfortably rather than under the car.
Lastly I had to figure out missing little parts like replacing the turbo flange gasket. After recommendation from SS members, in between the downpipe and the exhaust I ended up using copper silicon which worked very well and has not leaked since my installed!

Also, be prepared to get a CEL after the downpipe install. In most cases the sensor will get the wrong CO reading value comparing before and after catalytic conversion. This is due to higher gas exhaust flow. I added a spacer to the second CO sensor (after the catalytic converter). After a while a CEL came back. I had to add a second spacer. It has been fine since.
If you plan on tackling this yourself I may be able to guide you if I can recall everything. I hope this helps!
Greg
 
#6 ·
awesome info. thanks guys. i think i may try and tackle this on Sunday so any additional info is appreciated.

I wonder if the AWD will be a bit tighter working space than the FWD?

once i hit the bolts with PB how long do i let it sit/soak for?

also, other than the IPD tool, what can i use for the O2 sensor removal?

i have the Autotech tune waiting to load up and i had it written with the DP as part of it so the second sensor is deleted so i dont expect any CEL's once i DL the tune.
I also have a AF sensor to attach but EST was kind enough to weld in the extra bung so that should be easy enough.
 
#7 ·
also, other than the IPD tool, what can i use for the O2 sensor removal?
3 things:

- Patience
- A 10' pole
- And a piece of wood for luck

:p
 
#8 ·
Actually I remember what I did for the O2 sensor removal!

I ended up cutting the plastic connector corner in a none critical area (watch out not to cut any wires of course) so I could fit a full round wrench over it.
If I did continue to use a flat wrench I would have rounded the hex to a none recoverable state for sure. The O2 sensor is slightly recessed which makes it worse to surround the HEX properly. . .
 
#9 ·
When I had my custom exhaust done, the guys said that they couldn't remember a downpipe removal/installation giving them so much of a hassle. In fact, if I recall correctly, they even went a few hours over the time they quoted me initially.
 
#11 ·
My local auto zone has a 7/8" oxygen sensor socket. This sound like the correct size?
 
#13 · (Edited)
That looks about right:
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5418/t1023-oxygen-sensor-wrench

When I had mine done 2 of 3 bolts broke and had to be drilled out.
When I did mine I replaced the turbo flange bolts. Needless to say I had a hard time finding the part.
I cannot remember where I purchased it.

Use plenty of PB blaster in increments (meaning let it absorb, try to unloose the bolts, than put some more PB blaster all this on a cool turbo)
Don't over torque the bolts as you try to loosen them up. If anything flex it should only be your tool. The bolt should release suddenly and be quite easy to remove once unloosened.

Also, IIRC, to access the turbo bolt on the far end side you need to remove the bolt that holds the aluminum cover shield to the turbo or to the downpipe (can't remember).
I think you do this from the engine bay but I'm not sure anymore. This will give you more room to work behind the turbo.

Another thing, don't be overly concerned if your car smoke like crazy for a minute or so once you turn the engine back on after the install. It's the new seal, flange that cooks for the first time, and much likely the PB blaster burning.
It should dissipate relatively quickly. I was not prepared for that and it scared the heck out of me. LOL, I thought my engine was catching on fire.
 
#12 ·
When I had mine done 2 of 3 bolts broke and had to be drilled out.
 
#15 ·
I personally recommend a shop to do it... At least rent a lift.

IIRC, they're not actually bolts that attach the turbo to the DP, but head studs. If you shear one of those youre fubar... think about removing the engine to get to the turbo, remove the turbo, drill a new hole for a bolt, etc etc. I've been down this road before and it sucks. At least if a shop does it, they have to repair it. Get a quote too so when they go over their allotted time... you know the drill
 
#16 ·
Hey zubilius

would you happen to have a video or sounds clip of your exhaust?
 
#17 ·
Frank had my car taken to an exhaust shop that he deals with. Not sure if air tools had any part in it. My car has relatively high km's so I think it was just from that and the bolts really settling in over time.

@ Evolv0- I dont have any recent vids/audio clips after my DP installation but the sound overall is deeper, burbles more and you'll really notice it at higher speeds when you put your foot down.
 
#18 ·
Help!!!
Have the car on jack stands to hit the bolts with pb tonight to let them soak overnight.
Question - how on earth do I get to the 3 turbo side bolts/nuts?
Is this accessed from under the car or from the engine bay?
What do I need to remove to get to them?
I have removed the splash guard and can see the "perforated" part of the dp but can't see the bend, where it attaches to the turbo or the nuts I need to get to.
 
#19 ·
..... Sorry duplicate by mistake....
See question above!!
 
#21 ·
is this done from under the car or from above under the hood?
 
#22 ·
The heat shield as a bolt you need to remove from the engine bay if I recall, though I may have removed it from under the car once I knew where it was. This will allow you to access the the third bolt of the turbo.
I don't think you need to remove the heat shield. Just push it away.

You may not be able to see it very well but you can guess it's location based on the position of the 2 others.

That said you should be able to see the turbo flange from under the car . . . remember the turbo is quite close to the engine.
My car is a FWD so I'm not certain. It may be different on yours.
 
#25 · (Edited)
The heatshield is attached to the block with 4 bolts. It most certainly will be in the way of getting to the DP bolts, which are mostly blind.

I had to remove my strut brace (if you have one).

Take off the intake tube.

Locate the heatshield, which is directly below the intake tube.

4 bolts hold the heatshield onto the block, remove the bolts, and maneuver the heatshield out (read: wiggle the sh*t out of it until it comes loose) You get to this from the top of the car.

The 3 bolts that hold the DP onto the turbo will be facing away and downward from you (if you're looking at it from the front of the car). They will be either hard to see or completely hidden. All of them can be gotten to from on top of the car. Literally. I laid on top of the engine at times. Getting to them from the bottom of the car would require multiple extensions and u-joint sockets. EDIT: I forgot, on mine, the bottom bolt is in such a awkward position, and me, lacking proper socket extensions and what not, had to get to the bottom DP bolt from the passanger side wheel well. I was able to squeeze my arm thru a gap in the engine bay, and got to the bottom bolt.

I left the pre-cat O2 on the DP. Disconnected the connector, and took out the DP with the O2 sensor still on.

Removing the DP with an AWD car is slightly more difficult, I had to take off the driveshaft tunnel brace, otherwise there was no way to get the old DP out, and the new one in.
 
#26 ·
well sounds like i will be inventing new curse words tomorrow as i am lucky??!! enough to have awd.
 
#28 ·
So, how is this DP coming along ? ;)
 
#29 ·
Installed! Zomg I almost threw in the towel a couple times.
2 of the 3 bolts were %<~{}# hard to get off. Persistence paid off.
Dp installed and I finally was able to load up my autotech tune that had the dp as part of it.
Oh. My. God.
This car is now seriously.....fast.
 
#48 ·
Sweet!!! I cannot wait to get to Stage two with the downpipe...the torque curve is huge!
 
#30 ·
Glad to hear it turn out well.
Yes, persistence is sometime the only remedy to tight bolts ;)
 
#31 ·
When the bolts finally "cracked" I was relieved. Thanks to everyones advice on this thread I kept from going insane!!!!
Btw tg - good looking out on the smoke factor! Hahahaha
 
#33 ·
On a second thought, I hope I didn't spoil a good scare . . . Just kidding ;)
 
#35 ·
i just got eveything installed on mine i will try and get a sound clip also
 
#36 ·
Great news!
How did it go evolv? Any trouble getting the bolts off?
 
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