S60R Spark Plug Change Guide
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    1. #1
      Junior Member maxenar's Avatar
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      S60R Spark Plug Change Guide

      Didn't manage to find a proper guide here on SS on how to swap out old spark plugs (and coil packs) so here's a guide with some (poor quality, sorry, twas taken with a Blackberry..) pics.

      DISCLAIMER: This guide is for informational purposes only, and is written based off a 2006 S60R. Your car may require a different procedure. Please attempt procedures with extra care, I am not responsible for your damages. If you do not know something, LOOK IT UP before you proceed. Otherwise

      So before we begin, here's a comprehensive list of items/tools you need:

      - 5 new Spark Plugs (duh, but please make sure they fit your vehicle, NGK Iridium IX LFR6AIX-11 here)
      - Torx Tool T-25 & T30
      - Flathead Screwdriver
      - Hex-bolt wrench (Not sure of the size, test it yourself)
      - Deep hex-shaped tool (5/8 inch size), fitted with a spark plug holder (recommended)
      - Spark plug gapper
      - Torque wrench

      Recommendations:

      - Keep car off for 3 hours before beginning to work, cuz parts of the car may be HOT, especially when you're from Texas and it's TRIPLE DIGIT temperatures in the summer.
      - Anti-seize (0.14z is more than enough, you can get them for $1 from Autozone)
      - 5 new Coil Packs (for those who want to replace them only, not required if you're only replacing spark plugs, it can be anything like IPD's HD Coils or VIVAPerformance's Plasma Direct Coil Packs)

      Procedure:

      1 - White waiting for your car to cool off, check your spark plugs to ensure that they are of optimal condition: no damage to the spark tip, and of the correct gap. The recommended gap from NGK in the S60R is 0.028" or 0.7112mm, use the spark plug gapper to ensure that it's of the right gap.

      2 - Begin by opening your hood, and removing the over the engine (OTE) pipe by removing the two Torx T-25 screws on the frontal side of the engine [FIGURE 1, CIRCLED BLUE], and then the two V-clamps on the front and back of the engine with the flat-headed screwdriver (the V-Clamps are a little hard to reach, and be careful of the HOT surfaces when reaching in deep).

      3 - Next, remove the blue (stock color), left Volvo engine cover by removing two of the Torx T-30 screws, and popping them off from the front. Then remove the remaining six Torx T-30 on the right Volvo engine cover. [FIGURE 1, CIRCLED RED]

      4 - After removing the engine cover, you should see the top of the five coils [FIGURE 2]. I recommend replacing one spark plug at a time. Remove the hex bolt with the wrench [FIGURE 2, CIRCLED RED] off one single coil pack first. Then remove the coil pack by pulling it upwards. Be careful not to damage the coils.

      5 - You should be able to see a spark plug located inside. (If you don't, you've been running with one spark plug less! Otherwise consult a psychiatrist) [FIGURE 3]. Use the deep headed hex-shaped tool along with a wrench and twist counter-clockwise (ensuring that the spark plug is being loosened parallel to the cylinder hole to avoid ruining the thread).

      6 - At this point, unplug your coil pack if you wish to replace it, and then reattach the new one. Once the spark plug is removed, prepare the other spark plug by adding anti-seize paste to the thread (optional) [FIGURE 4]. Be careful to coat them on the thread only, do not stain the spark plug tip with the paste.

      7 - Using the deep-headed hex tool, and using a torque wrench, attach the new spark plug, insert and turn clockwise (torqued to 21.8lbs/ft, recommended). Once tightened, reattach the coil pack and tighten with the bolt you originally removed.

      8 - Repeat step 7 for the remaining spark plugs. Once done, reattach the right Volvo engine cover, and then the left, ensuring that they snap into the right place, tightened with the eight Torx T-27 screws. Once done, reattach the OTE pipe, and tighten the Torx T-25 screw first, then the V-clamps. Double-check to ensure that the OTE pipe is tight and in place.

      9 - Check that your engine bay is CLEAR of your tools, and that you didn't drop anything inside. Shut engine hood, chug beer, smile.

      Pictures:


      ^FIGURE 1


      ^FIGURE 2


      ^FIGURE 3


      ^FIGURE 4
      Last edited by maxenar; 04-17-2012 at 12:40 AM.
      2006 Volvo S60 R | GT | Passion Red | ///S2R
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    2. #2
      Junior Member maxenar's Avatar
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      Just to show you SS folks how hot it is here in Texas, here's my iPod that was left on the passenger seat while I worked.

      2006 Volvo S60 R | GT | Passion Red | ///S2R
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    3. #3
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      good write up

      there is this one that i used to do my plugs a few weeks ago. now if anyone searches this they will get both write ups!

      Spark Plug How to!
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    4. #4
      Junior Member maxenar's Avatar
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      Hmm... That's weird, I must've not searched thorough enough. I notice that the guy's OTE has different clamps than mine...
      2006 Volvo S60 R | GT | Passion Red | ///S2R
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    5. #5
      Member jstro's Avatar
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      Begin by opening your hood
      Nice write up, good thing you did not miss the all important above step, many folks have forgotten to do this prior to starting to work in the engine compartment
      Last edited by jstro; 07-04-2011 at 04:16 PM.
      totally stock.. honest

    6. #6
      Junior Member maxenar's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by jstro View Post
      Nice write up, good thing you did not miss the all important above step, many folks have fogotton to do this prior to starting to work in the engine compartment
      Damn, how could I forget that? Now everyone else must be drilling holes here and there on the hood! lol..
      2006 Volvo S60 R | GT | Passion Red | ///S2R
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    7. #7
      Quote Originally Posted by maxenar View Post
      Hmm... That's weird, I must've not searched thorough enough. I notice that the guy's OTE has different clamps than mine...
      My 04 uses a V-band type clamp with a Torx lockbolt on the turbo side of the CAC, or OTE, or whatever people call it. We call it CAC tube in Ford speak at my work.

    8. #8
      Junior Member maxenar's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by bdcardinal View Post
      My 04 uses a V-band type clamp with a Torx lockbolt on the turbo side of the CAC, or OTE, or whatever people call it. We call it CAC tube in Ford speak at my work.
      Yeah I have a feeling 04/05 have different clamps compared to the 06/07...
      2006 Volvo S60 R | GT | Passion Red | ///S2R
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    9. #9
      Member o2k's Avatar
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      Nice work.. Even thought theres a right up already, it never hurts to have more.
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    10. #10
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      Replacing mine this weekend thanks for the writeup!

    11. #11
      Member ryanlamark's Avatar
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      I never heard about torquing spark plugs. I would be pretty afraid of snapping one.
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    12. #12
      Junior Member twr3cks's Avatar
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      just did mine, checked the gaps on the new spark plugs and have them right at .028. but when i checked the spark plugs that came out of the car, most of them were at 33-35. after installing the new ones the car seems to want to mis fire a bit every minute or so when at idle.

    13. #13
      Quote Originally Posted by twr3cks View Post
      just did mine, checked the gaps on the new spark plugs and have them right at .028. but when i checked the spark plugs that came out of the car, most of them were at 33-35. after installing the new ones the car seems to want to mis fire a bit every minute or so when at idle.
      why did you re-gap OEM plugs? .. should have left them alone...
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    14. #14
      Junior Member maxenar's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by twr3cks View Post
      just did mine, checked the gaps on the new spark plugs and have them right at .028. but when i checked the spark plugs that came out of the car, most of them were at 33-35. after installing the new ones the car seems to want to mis fire a bit every minute or so when at idle.
      Did you make sure you put everything back right? The gapping process is pretty delicate too - you've got to be careful when doing it.
      2006 Volvo S60 R | GT | Passion Red | ///S2R
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    15. #15
      Junior Member maxenar's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by tomedkaz View Post
      why did you re-gap OEM plugs? .. should have left them alone...
      Plugs may come from factories with different gaps. Hence the use of a gapper to check that they're right.
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    16. #16
      I didn't read the whole thing, but the blue engine cover is held by T-30 torx not a T-27
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    17. #17
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      Quote Originally Posted by tomedkaz View Post
      why did you re-gap OEM plugs? .. should have left them alone...
      ALWAYS check your gap. Never rely on the assumption the factory did it perfectly.

      For example, got plugs last week - gaps ranged from 0.028 - 0.031 over 5 plugs.

      This could have caused a host of "down the road" issues.
      04 V70 2.5T AWD - AUTOTECH | SNABB | OBX | MAGNAFLOW | SNABB | BILSTEIN | EIBACH

    18. #18
      Junior Member bimmerd00d's Avatar
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      Maxenar, Dallas crew chiming in. I'm probably due for plugs soon, came in here to see what it takes to remove the OTE pipe! What part of Dallas?
      2004 S60R 6-spd - Black/Nordkap, 18" Pegs, OEM BT, GROM, doesn't need anything else - 113k
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    19. #19
      Junior Member maxenar's Avatar
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      I'm in the University Park area. Grab a beer?
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    20. #20
      Junior Member vLGrok's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Beck View Post
      ALWAYS check your gap. Never rely on the assumption the factory did it perfectly.

      For example, got plugs last week - gaps ranged from 0.028 - 0.031 over 5 plugs.

      This could have caused a host of "down the road" issues.
      I did not know this. Installing the Autolite's straight out of the box without checking gap might be why I've had to garage the R due to engine running like crap until the OEM plugs get installed. Plus that the Autolite plugs had the 25mm reach instead of 29mm. I wrongly assumed I would get the correct plug for the car since it specified exact fit for the 2004 S60R. Costly mistake.
      2004 S60R 6MT, Red+Gobi, Factory Sport Kit, ARD Carbon tune, 10/15mm spacers, Drilled/Slotted rotors, Snabb turbo inlet, Evolve exhaust, OBX DP, Magmaflow Cat, IPD HD Coils, UR Bracers, so much more.

    21. #21
      Junior Member twr3cks's Avatar
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      No what I meant was when I got my new spark plugs I gapped them to .028 perfectly. But when I was taking out the old spark plugs out of the car I checked them to see what they were and they ranged from .031-.033. Do I double checked everything online just to make sure that the gap was supposed to be .028. After putting the new ones in the engine has a bogged down idle.
      So I did some further research and just decided to pick up some Volvo plugs and I'll still check them before putting them in.

    22. #22
      Junior Member maxenar's Avatar
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      Define "bogged down idle" so we can further help out.
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    23. #23
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      nice write up and this baby is not going to seize up in that head.

    24. #24
      Junior Member dmelvi007's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by RRR View Post
      I didn't read the whole thing, but the blue engine cover is held by T-30 torx not a T-27
      Yeah they are actually a T30. Bolts that hold the coils are 10mm or 8mm depending on year, 05 was a split year.

    25. #25
      Junior Member twr3cks's Avatar
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      Well after the car warms up and the idle settles down, the car runs smooth for about 30 seconds then the idle dips down a bit causing the the idle to spike up a bit to keep it from "stalling" I suppose. I just got some plugs from the dealer and I'll install them Monday or Tuesday to see what happens.

    26. #26
      Junior Member unboxy-R's Avatar
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      Just an added warning. I decided not to disconnect the coil packs when I did mine and just moved them out of the way. When I did this it cracked the outer coating on a couple wires to the connector, the wire itself was fine. I have to assume because of age and the cold temp outside being the culprit. I just wrapped each cracked wire with electrical tape and have had no problems.
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    27. #27
      Junior Member maxenar's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by unboxy-R View Post
      Just an added warning. I decided not to disconnect the coil packs when I did mine and just moved them out of the way. When I did this it cracked the outer coating on a couple wires to the connector, the wire itself was fine. I have to assume because of age and the cold temp outside being the culprit. I just wrapped each cracked wire with electrical tape and have had no problems.
      Yeah I didn't disconnect my packs too when I changed out the plugs..
      2006 Volvo S60 R | GT | Passion Red | ///S2R
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    28. #28
      Junior Member twr3cks's Avatar
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      Just installed the new Volvo spark plugs that I bought from the dealer last week and it has a perfect idle. Wierd thing is I checked the spacing on all the new spark plugs and they are the same as the factory spark plugs that I originally took out a couple weeks ago( .031 or so). When I checkd all the spark plugs that I took out this time(which were the new ones I put in a couple weeks ago) they were still at a perfect .028. So no sure where the mess up is or if the spark plugs that I got a couple weeks ago from autozone are crap, but glad to hear the car is running as smooth as a babies behind.

    29. #29
      Junior Member dustbom05's Avatar
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      Awesome right up man
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    30. #30
      Junior Member maxenar's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by twr3cks View Post
      Just installed the new Volvo spark plugs that I bought from the dealer last week and it has a perfect idle. Wierd thing is I checked the spacing on all the new spark plugs and they are the same as the factory spark plugs that I originally took out a couple weeks ago( .031 or so). When I checkd all the spark plugs that I took out this time(which were the new ones I put in a couple weeks ago) they were still at a perfect .028. So no sure where the mess up is or if the spark plugs that I got a couple weeks ago from autozone are crap, but glad to hear the car is running as smooth as a babies behind.
      Glad you figured it out!
      2006 Volvo S60 R | GT | Passion Red | ///S2R
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    31. #31
      Member MountainR's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by twr3cks View Post
      Just installed the new Volvo spark plugs that I bought from the dealer last week and it has a perfect idle. Wierd thing is I checked the spacing on all the new spark plugs and they are the same as the factory spark plugs that I originally took out a couple weeks ago( .031 or so). When I checkd all the spark plugs that I took out this time(which were the new ones I put in a couple weeks ago) they were still at a perfect .028. So no sure where the mess up is or if the spark plugs that I got a couple weeks ago from autozone are crap, but glad to hear the car is running as smooth as a babies behind.
      It's been stated many times thru this forum to go with OEM for spark plugs. I'm not sure why, but many of the aftermarket plugs seem to give people issues. I just replaced mine last week with the help of this thread and I was sure to go OEM and check the gappage

      Great thread. Super helpful
      2006 S60R MT //Sapphicap//Sport_Premium_Climate_Convenience//18" OZ Ultraleggeras//TME Springs//phMIC//Viva SM Flywheel//OBX DP//Ipd: Boost Gauge & Poly Upper Engine + Trans Mount//Bob Vila//EST Exhaust//Fitzy Gauge Pod//

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    32. #32
      Junior Member maxenar's Avatar
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      Just to post my experiences: I've been running NGK Iridiums since I posted this in July of last year, but I still do regular oil and filter changes. Since running those NGKs, I've NEVER had any cylinder misfires, nor have I had any start up or idling issues.
      2006 Volvo S60 R | GT | Passion Red | ///S2R
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    33. #33
      Junior Member bimmerd00d's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by maxenar View Post
      Just to post my experiences: I've been running NGK Iridiums since I posted this in July of last year, but I still do regular oil and filter changes. Since running those NGKs, I've NEVER had any cylinder misfires, nor have I had any start up or idling issues.
      Just replaced them with the NGK's last night. All seems well, the old plugs were OEM in decent shape, whatever those are. All had a gap of .028. I had it all apart anyway, figured i'd just replace them and i'll hold onto the old ones just in case.

      2004 S60R 6-spd - Black/Nordkap, 18" Pegs, OEM BT, GROM, doesn't need anything else - 113k
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    34. #34
      Junior Member maxenar's Avatar
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      How's the after feel? better MPG? Smoother engine?
      2006 Volvo S60 R | GT | Passion Red | ///S2R
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    35. #35
      Junior Member vLGrok's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MountainR View Post
      It's been stated many times thru this forum to go with OEM for spark plugs. I'm not sure why, but many of the aftermarket plugs seem to give people issues. I just replaced mine last week with the help of this thread and I was sure to go OEM and check the gappage

      Great thread. Super helpful
      IIRC, melted plugs in some cases with NGKs.
      2004 S60R 6MT, Red+Gobi, Factory Sport Kit, ARD Carbon tune, 10/15mm spacers, Drilled/Slotted rotors, Snabb turbo inlet, Evolve exhaust, OBX DP, Magmaflow Cat, IPD HD Coils, UR Bracers, so much more.

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