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The XC70 R project

66K views 85 replies 18 participants last post by  wingdo 
#1 · (Edited)


Thought I would make a build thread.

After having a daily driver full race built EK Civic Type R, 2 Lexus/Toyota Soarer SC400, 1 Toyota Lexus/SC400 with Adaptronic tuned Supercharged Intercooled 400HP, the missus has succeeded to put her foot down and get a family car. Conditions applied.

Car:

2002 Volvo XC70
2.4L AWD Turbo
(Special Volvo factory order from Sweden)

Upgrades:

XC with M58 Manual gearbox
Dolby Pro Logic II HU-803 Head unit + center dash speaker
Full powered passenger seat
Sport mirrors
Sunroof
XC90 Spring seats

Engine:

AUTOTECH / EVOLVE custom tune + OBD software tuning tool
TD04 HL16T turbo
V70R downpipe
V70R Green 450cc injectors
V70R fuel rail
V70R blue engine covers
IPD-USA Compressor Bypass Valve
IPD-USA Turbo Control Valve
IPD-USA Turbo coupler pipes
IPD-USA HD Coil packs
IPD-USA Poly engine mounts
IPD-USA Throw out bearing
EVOLVE Air Management System
OBX-R Stainless steel exhaust.

Brakes:

V70R Brembo 4 pot calipers
330mm Powerslot slotted rotors
Stainless steel braided brake lines

Interior:

V70R Blue R instrument cluster with custom LED back lighting
V70R R door sills
IPD-USA blue R boost guage
EST chrome head unit dial surrounds
1kw 12v power inverter
Wood interior trim treatment

Exterior:

Carbon Rear spoiler with LED lights
S60R 18" silver pearl Pegasus wheels
6000K HID
Euro silver rails
S60 AWD springs
Limo tint
Carbon side mirrors

Tuning:
Working on this has been a pure test of my patience, trial and error with parts and frequent communication with Peter @ Autotech Sweden. Without Peter's help and his general amusement to tune a car on the other side of the world, I would have been no where with the current set up.

Over the past year I have tested about 6 different Autotech tunes, 1 with the Elevate group buy for the stock 13T and the last being all for the bigger 16T. Not to mention reinstalling other tunes for testing purposes countless times. Some may remember heated discussions in the IPD thread regarding my tune and what was wrong with it, why it was running poor, 20+psi boost spikes and what parts I need. After much trial and error, we realised it was purely software related. Symptoms such as boost flutter and too much boost were a problematic occurrence with later tunes and it wasn't until I installed a set of fresh green giants / injectors, everything started to work beautifully. No boost flutter, no over-boost and no cold start issues. Only problem now is my current boost is set at 12psi. Peter has been too busy to send a new file for more boost.

The next big job will be to install an Autotech FMIC. Not because it can get real hot where I live, but for the added boost and the fragile nature of the stock plastic XC Intercooler.

Some engine pics:







Some interior pics:











Some exterior pics:











Brakes:

Out with the old fronts:


In with the new:
R 4 pot Brembos, stainless steel braided brake lines, bolts, alloy Brembo brackets, 330mm Power slot rotors.







Out with the old rears:





In with the new:
R 4 pot Brembos, stainless steel braided brake lines, 330mm Power slot rotors.



Some shopping:



TERRÄNGKÖRNING LANDVAGN













Whats next:

M66 AWD 6sp manual transmission.
 
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#37 ·
Wonder the same thing too but on a hunch, it will not be better fuel consumption.
 
#40 ·
Taller, narrower tyres sure will lower the fuel consumption.
 
#42 ·
Looks good. Just received the R cluster and the cluster surround. A R engine cover and timing cover on the way too.
 
#44 ·
It is slowly coming.
 
#45 ·
Ocean Racer - so what's the status now? Will the S60 AWD springs give out after a while or was it due to a bad install?

Im looking for any drop I can get and a stiffer ride, but if it's going to lean back like that after a while I'll pass.
 
#47 ·
OMG! I'm going for my SECOND alignment THIS WEEK! You must hate your tires!

I did notice something though - the camber being negative biased has lead to more bent rims, as the insides are much softer than the outsides... Ugh.

My goal is -.7 all around, or -.9 worst-case. That leave the front within spec, and I figure that's good enough for the rears as well :D

FYI, when you take the front shocks off, you are screwing with your overall alignment big time. They are directly responsible for front camber adjustments, and will impact the rest of the alignment if moved.
 
#57 · (Edited)
OMG! I'm going for my SECOND alignment THIS WEEK! You must hate your tires!

I did notice something though - the camber being negative biased has lead to more bent rims, as the insides are much softer than the outsides... Ugh.

My goal is -.7 all around, or -.9 worst-case. That leave the front within spec, and I figure that's good enough for the rears as well :D

FYI, when you take the front shocks off, you are screwing with your overall alignment big time. They are directly responsible for front camber adjustments, and will impact the rest of the alignment if moved.
Just came back from the wheel alignment place (again)
They had previously aligned the XC with the steering wheel on a stupid angle. :rolleyes::facepalm:

Camber in the rear is -2 degrees with a slight increase on the left hand side (passenger side)
I put a heavy trolley jack behind the driver seat to simulate a person in the drivers seat for the alignment.
Again no print out to show.

O, and I did find some left side damage - the left front dust shield had impacted on something and is bent upwards from below - like being dropped on a curb etc.
They deemed that to be an accident.
 
#53 ·
Maybe they think such coz the alignment was out by so much. They have yet to encounter a XC70R.
 
#59 ·
I looked at the IPD camber stuff and decided not to go with it. For what you pay, you don't get much!
The alignment shop has a bust printer and they were not able to print out any data for me to upload. All I know is the rear camber is set to -2 each side. Fronts seem ok.
 
#60 ·
The IPD bushing will net you +/- 1.5 degrees of rear camber. What was odd was that my rear camber did move 1.5 degrees in the rear, but then shifted .2 degrees after a few alignments. I will try with simulated weight in the driver's seat next time around.

Front is slightly adjustable from the factory, but there are ways to make it adjust past that range....

There are advantages, and disadvantages to negative camber. Negative camber will cause uneven wear on tires (and reduced tire life) but gives you better turn-in response with aggressive cornering. For road-going cars that don't see much track/aggressive use, you want to be closer to 0. I'll be shooting for -.5 or -.7 at all four corners during my next run of alignments.

The rear install isn't horrible, but I had some issues with my homemade tool breaking on me during the install. I also did it for the first time and figured that I could average 1.5 hours per side or less if it really came down to it (not using a lift). I'm hoping to only have to touch one of the bushings to bring it further negative to match the other side that's already at it's limit.
 
#64 ·
I hear ya. I do like to keep my XC stock as the ride is nice plus the flash floods are not a biggie for the XC.
 
#65 ·
IPD makes a rear offset bushing that you have to have pressed into the control arm. Depending on the orientation on which you install them, it can add as much as 1.5 degrees. They also offer a front camber bolt kit. My front camber at -.5 is acceptable to me, so I'm not going to spend the $$ on camber bolts.
 
#67 ·
While time consuming, if you're comfortable turning a wrench (and tearing apart your car :D ) it's not a horrible install. My right rear was out to -2.1, so I really didn't have a choice. If you run out of adjustment on the fronts, shoot me an email, as I fixed that for ~$10 after my IPD front camber bolt snapped.
 
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