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How to remove front rotors? Replacement?
I'm trying to revive a 1966 P130 that has been sitting for a few years. After getting the engine running, the next major project is doing a complete brake system overhaul. I have removed the front calipers but I haven't been able to remove the rotor/hub. Is there a trick to it? I tried removing the four nuts behind the backing plate but it seems that the bolts are turning along with the nuts. Am I going to have to cut the bolts off? Update: Or am I doing the wrong thing entirely? I think there may be a nut underneath the grease cap that I completely overlooked?! Sorry for the newbie questions.
Also for the rotors/hub once I finally get them off, is it ok to get them machined? Or are there any reasonably priced bolt-on aftermarket rotors/hub available? Based on a quick internet search, OEM rotors with hub run about $200-$250/ea...
Rotor and hub with caliper removed:
Back side of rotor, behind backing plate:
Last edited by mathrock; 10-18-2011 at 12:37 AM.
Welcome to Swedespeed, Nat.
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If not too late, avoid disassembly of the calipers.
Rotors can be resurfaced - see the pdf for minimum thickness and runout.
Brake parts are available from numerous online suppliers - just list your needs here.
I haven't had time to verify, but looking around more it seems like I should be able to remove the grease cap and then the pin/castle nut behind it to take the rotor off. Luckily I did read up enough on the calipers to know not to separate the two halves. Once I get the rotors off I'll take them to a machine shop to see if they can be resurfaced. I'll post back with parts requirements when I determine what I'll need.
It may be that your rotors really don't need to be machined.
Normal use will clean them pretty well so if they are a bit rusty but smooth, no problem.
The main reason to machine them is if they are warped (but if they are you probably can't machine them enough to fix them.)
Ones that I have considered too rusty to run but otherwise OK I used a disc sanding attachment on an electric drill and just sanded the rust off. Worked great.
Pitting is not a serious problem as many disks come with holes drilled in them.
Got the rotors off!
The backside of the hub looks different between the two rotors, as if one has significant wear. Below are pictures of the backside of the two rotors. Note the left one has a circle disc thing that has "Volvo" stamped into it, the right one doesn't have the same disc but has a small raised circle bit with two raised parts opposite each other. Does this indicate the hub/rotor is too worn or is this nothing to worry about?
Left rotor (inside):
Right rotor (inside):
Unlike the newer cars, the wheel studs are on the rotor and the hub is closest to the wheel. That is the rotor is behind the hub and you need to take the hub and rotor off the spindle and press the rotor off the hub.
I did this once and it was easier to remove all the studs first and then press the rotor off.
Unless you have evidence that the rotors are warped or there is something else wrong with them other than the rust that shows in the pic, I'd recommend that you NOT remove them but clean the worst of the rust off and continue to use them. (It might be good to repack the bearings and replace the seals.)
I'll take that advice -- clean them up with new seals and rebuild the calipers. The bulk of my work will be in replacing some of the rusted out hard brake lines. They sheared completely off when taking them off the calipers.
These are frugal cars made for frugal folk....
OTOH, if you DID replace the disks you could probably clean them up and sell them!