Washer Fluid Not Coming Out
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    1. #1
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      Washer Fluid Not Coming Out

      My windshield washer fluid on my 04 V70R stopped spraying a while back and I always thought it was because I ran out. (Is there any sort of notification for when that happens? My V90 has a light on the dash that lights up)

      Anyways, I added more today, turns out my tank was pretty much full. Still no fluid coming out from any of the places. When I do the fronts I can hear a a pump going pretty loud, but not when I do the rears. Any ideas?

      My preliminary research leads me to believe that a broken check valve may be the culprit, but if that breaks does that mean nothing comes out?
      Last edited by azureous; 01-14-2012 at 07:42 PM.

    2. #2
      Member Wayne T5's Avatar
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      Sure, pretty common problem on older Volvos, still happens on the newer ones. You could either replace the check valve or remove the valve mechanism with a sharp implement or dremel/ drill.
      Past: '94 854, '99 S70 T5 SE, '99 S70 GLT, '04 S60RM, '12 S60 T5, '13 S60 T5
      Present: '13 MX5 Club Sport, '15 S60 RD, '05 V70RGT

    3. #3
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      The check valves don't really break. They have a little bit of rubber and a spring mechanism inside of the valve. In my experience with other European cars the spring presses the rubber against the inside of the housing and it will eventually stick. I tried to "fix one by unsticking it and ended up puncturing the rubber. Then it took forever for fluid to get up to the nozzles. My two cents is to replace the valves so the system works as designed. They are easy to replace and fairly inexpensive. IPD has an economy one for four bucks.
      '07 SR Black Sapphire/Nordkap, 18" Pegs w/ Conti DWS's, Huper Optic Tint

    4. #4
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      So a broken check valve would cause none of the fluid to come out? Versus having just the rear work or just the front work?

    5. #5
      Member Wayne T5's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by azureous View Post
      So a broken check valve would cause none of the fluid to come out? Versus having just the rear work or just the front work?
      It could be that the checkvalves for both front and rear are faulty though that could be a stretch if both front and back (and headlight washers) were working fine previously. It may be something else.
      Past: '94 854, '99 S70 T5 SE, '99 S70 GLT, '04 S60RM, '12 S60 T5, '13 S60 T5
      Present: '13 MX5 Club Sport, '15 S60 RD, '05 V70RGT

    6. #6
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      mine quit too, where are these valves?

    7. #7
      Member LloydDobler's Avatar
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      Have you tried running the squirter and waiting to see if any washer fluid pours out on the ground anywhere? There are several hoses and plastic fittings, any one of which could come disconnected or break.
      2003 C70 T5M Convertible - Eibachs, Koni FSDs, Enkei RSF5s, OBX downpipe, Snabb intake & RIP kit, AL Intercooler, Quaife LSD, 19T, JZW tune pushing 20 psi. Summer fun car
      2001 V70 T5M - Black on black, H&R springs, Triton wheels, Koni FSDs, Daily driver
      1966 122s - Collectible project, restoration and many mods on the way.
      RIP - 2004 C70 HPT Convertible, 5 speed swap

    8. #8
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      not 100% sure where the check valves are and not sure how many. I know on a SAAB that I had there where five I think. The one for the windshield should be close to the hood. Follow the hose back from the washer.
      '07 SR Black Sapphire/Nordkap, 18" Pegs w/ Conti DWS's, Huper Optic Tint

    9. #9

    10. #10
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      @WayneT5: Any ideas what could cause all of them to stop working?

      @LloydDobler: I tried running it for a while, nothing came out. The tank was filled up to the point where I could see the fluid, and the fluid wasn't noticeably decreasing even after trying for a while.

      @mecky33: I tried doing that with the the front ones, but they sort of go down into the engine compartment and is really hard to follow.

      @R.Photo: It's pretty cold, but it wasn't working a while back before it was cold enough to freeze as well

    11. #11
      Member LloydDobler's Avatar
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      If you pull the bumper you have access to pretty much all of the squirter system, that'd be my next step. Disconnect hoses and follow the fluid path.

      Do the headlight squirters squirt?
      2003 C70 T5M Convertible - Eibachs, Koni FSDs, Enkei RSF5s, OBX downpipe, Snabb intake & RIP kit, AL Intercooler, Quaife LSD, 19T, JZW tune pushing 20 psi. Summer fun car
      2001 V70 T5M - Black on black, H&R springs, Triton wheels, Koni FSDs, Daily driver
      1966 122s - Collectible project, restoration and many mods on the way.
      RIP - 2004 C70 HPT Convertible, 5 speed swap

    12. #12
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      The pump could also be bad. A broken diagram would cause the pump to run but not move fluid.
      If you could get to the hose closest to the pump, disconnect it and see if the pump moves fluid.
      Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to slide in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "Holy ****, what a ride!"

    13. #13
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      Would anyone have a diagram for the washer fluid system by any chance? I'm not 100% sure where each component is. Thanks!

    14. #14
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      Hope this helps some.


      Parts here: Tasca Parts
      Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to slide in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "Holy ****, what a ride!"

    15. #15
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      Most of the components are located with the tank. Tank is a blow molded piece that has pump and other components attached to it.
      As Lloyd pointed out, best to remove the front bumper, all will be readily accessible then. On your V70R, the line to the rear goes up the right "A" pillar. There is a connector there as I recall.
      Pump is about $30 as I recall when I replaced mine (2005 V70R)
      If you hear it run, then clearly there is power there, not sure why you do not hear it for the rear, since it is the same pump. I do know that Volvo has used single and multiple pump schemes.
      Replacement pump is straight from the FoMOCo parts bin!

    16. #16
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      Took a look at my problem again, looks like the fluid is slowly going down, but I can still see it in the filler tube. Pump might be broken, couldn't hear it again when I tried listening for it. Must have heard the front wiper motors instead. I'll try it again tomorrow and see if it's leaking. Is it easy to remove the front bumper?

    17. #17
      Member LloydDobler's Avatar
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      Relatively easy, yes. Takes some practice the first couple times but once you know how it's just a few minute process. Remove headlight wiper arms, carefully remove the bumper trim to expose and remove 2 bolts, loosen 2 screws in the fender wells, remove the push clips above the grille, and it should slide forward and off. Anyone else chime in if I missed anything, it's been a while since I pulled a bumper.

      This is kind of what you'll see once you're in there, from my '01:

      Last edited by LloydDobler; 01-16-2012 at 10:37 PM.
      2003 C70 T5M Convertible - Eibachs, Koni FSDs, Enkei RSF5s, OBX downpipe, Snabb intake & RIP kit, AL Intercooler, Quaife LSD, 19T, JZW tune pushing 20 psi. Summer fun car
      2001 V70 T5M - Black on black, H&R springs, Triton wheels, Koni FSDs, Daily driver
      1966 122s - Collectible project, restoration and many mods on the way.
      RIP - 2004 C70 HPT Convertible, 5 speed swap

    18. #18
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      mine quit working as well, I have no power to the pump. all the fuses are intact

    19. #19
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      I haven't really looked into mine yet, I've just left it broken for the time being. How'd you figure out you weren't getting power to the pump?

    20. #20
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      What is the part # on the FoMoCo pump? Last time I pulled the bumper I noticed the Ford markings on mine. Vadis mentions different pumps by chasis, but my car was built in late 04 as an 05 so it sometimes does not follow the notes in Vadis.
      05 V70R MT (Red/Atacama)
      12 XC60 T6 (Wife's Ride)

    21. #21
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      Quote Originally Posted by azureous View Post
      I haven't really looked into mine yet, I've just left it broken for the time being. How'd you figure out you weren't getting power to the pump?
      no voltage when tested

    22. #22
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      I did some research and answered my own question. The Volvo part # was 30699952, but it looks like it was superseded with a new number, 31349228. The cross-referenced Ford part number is a Ford of Europe number which is 1355124. Tasca has the best price I could find at $46 plus shipping. Ford of NA does not stock the part.

    23. #23
      Time to upgrade...Hell Yeah.
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