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    Thread: Zeljko_M's R

    1. #1
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      Zeljko_M's R

      Ok,
      I've started this thread a while ago to log all the mods and nice time I have with my caR.
      It did not work quite as I expected cause I had no time for forum, but I'll try to work on that field now.

      The stage 1
      The primary condition which I wanted to achieve prior any engine modifications was setting up the suspension and AWD properly. It included changing worn bushings with powerflex and XC series bushings, and adding sway bars. Rear one was easy, and front one is laying in a garage, one day the engine will get out anyway and. It will be the perfect time for the new sway bar instalation. AWD needed a new collar, angle gear reseal, new oil and oil filter.

      The stage 2
      Ok, what it takes for stage 2 mod is FMIC, exhaust and a tune.
      Thanks to ViVA I have got a great deal on iSoftloader and tunes. The FMIC is also from ViVA.

      So, let's see the exhaust now
      The entire turbo back exhaust is made out of 316 SS, and is 3" wide all the way.
      The OEM DP flange was used for turbo side. First O2 on the same place as OEM, and the second one has been placed before the CAT and on its spacer. No CEL activated with stage 1 or 2 tune (Rica)









      The OEM turbo flange will be cut away when new turbo setup comes in.

      More exhaust pictures will follow...

      And the result was excellent. Huh, no need to explain, it is so much better than stock or OEM.
      The only problem was, it did not last long enough
      After about two weeks of fun, one 2hour track day course, and a 1000km road trip my Rosie had a stroke and wrote LOW COOLANT, STOP SAFELY.
      You all know what it is, unfortunately.

      So, I got her towed to Croatian's T5 guru and in les than 2 hours we got the head off.
      @ 125000 km


      The engine was probably producing around 380 hp.
      I believe that the main reason for souch a failure is lack of horsepower.
      Next step is Dartons.

      Bigger brakes plan
      After getting the car up to 220kmh on our local track, and braking before entry to a corner I quickly understood that I was loosing a lot of time and brakes there. It crossed my mind before to go bigger, but The price tag was something I feared off.
      And just couple weeks ago, I ran over one nice guy who was selling a pair of used Porche cayenne turbo 6 piston brembo monoblock calipers. Cool, I instantly saw them in silver Volvo color with one shiny R .
      So, here is them two hawing a bath before sending them for media blasting and coating;


      The plan is to get the two peace 355 rotors under neath 18" pegs, and some 19" aftermarket wheels for summer time. I might keep. The OEM brakes for winter time and possibly getting a 17" set of wheels for that occasion.
      Last edited by Zeljko_M; 03-22-2012 at 08:41 AM.
      SR, MT, TiGray Gobi; slow project...

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    4. #3
      Member n23's Avatar
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      Looks nice and shiny, almost too bad you had to bury it under the car once installed.

    5. #4
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      Ha ha, thanks for the comments. I feel the same way.
      I'll need to keep the heat shield cause my shield on the firewall was chewed by a fricken rat now I need to put a new one in, but that calls for getting the engine out. I'll eventually replace it, but not before an engine has to go out.

      I'll update with more pictures once I receive them.
      SR, MT, TiGray Gobi; slow project...

    6. #5
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      Quote Originally Posted by Zeljko_M View Post
      Ha ha, thanks for the comments. I feel the same way.
      I'll need to keep the heat shield cause my shield on the firewall was chewed by a fricken rat now I need to put a new one in, but that calls for getting the engine out. I'll eventually replace it, but not before an engine has to go out.

      I'll update with more pictures once I receive them.
      oh I see, then it is time to mod out your heat shield with a high temp rat trap...

    7. #6
      Quote Originally Posted by dougy View Post
      gorgeous Zeljko, i would not put that shield back on.
      Why not? Wouldn't the engine bay get much hotter?

    8. #7
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      Quote Originally Posted by Slvr S60R View Post
      Why not? Wouldn't the engine bay get much hotter?
      just my preference and "opinion" with a thick cast iron exhaust manifold it is air cooled better without a shield then with it on and it is better for the exhaust manifold gasket and the steam seals...now if it was headers i'd wrap them... as for the heat , it is there weather the shield is on or not and I rather have it cool off into to the bay after you shut it off than into the head.

    9. #8
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      I finally got some time to add some recent history to the topic.
      I'll be editing first page to keep the thread tidy.
      SR, MT, TiGray Gobi; slow project...

    10. #9
      Global Moderator CMOD_R's Avatar
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      6 pistons bolt right up? Hmmm I want some lol
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    11. #10
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      Quote Originally Posted by crazyace1104 View Post
      6 pistons bolt right up? Hmmm I want some lol
      +1, I would want to know more about how it'll bolt right up...
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    12. #11
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      Quote Originally Posted by crazyace1104 View Post
      6 pistons bolt right up? Hmmm I want some lol
      Not quite bolt on option. I'll need to get new fitting plate fabricated. New aluminium heart for the two piece rotor and I'll most likely end up using porshe's floating disc.
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    13. #12
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      Quote Originally Posted by DevolvR View Post
      +1, I would want to know more about how it'll bolt right up...
      Ya cause if that's the case...then I'm gonna start savin my pennies. 6 piston on all four corners would be like ohhhhhh I don't know...AMAZING!

      Custom custom custom I got excited that it would bolt up :/
      2012 Volvo S60 T6 R-Design Hilton Tuned 310awhp/414awtq
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      Some more updates;

      George at ViVA has started a build for me.
      Parts list is mostly from George's shop; Wiseco pistons, Dartons, K1 conrods, knife edged crank, single mass flywheel, spec 3+ clutch, probably 1000cc fuel injectors and lots of coatings and treatments on most of components.

      I've always wanted to try BW EFR turbo, and my initial wish was EFR7670. Unfortunately, that turbo seems unavailable, and a waiting list is miles long.
      Logical step was EFR8374. I've found one at home and I'll see if that small snail will fit underneath the bonnet. Exhaust manifold will be costum built, and now I pry god every night to find a way how to stuff that turbo at the back of the engine.

      The tune should be done at Rica engeneering, they have showed interest for souch a challenge.

      I'll get home in about two weeks and then I'll get you pictures and details if there was room for the snail...

      I might be doing big brakes conversion and transmission modifications this time.

      Hope that the snail will keep the thread hot.
      SR, MT, TiGray Gobi; slow project...

    15. #14
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      Picked up some nice parts for my R yesterday.
      The pictures do not show it all but you will get some viewing pleasure

      New cooling pipe


      Mr Milakovic is proud to present his masterpiece




      I'll have to test install the old block next week to check all clearances before sending the manifold, DP and turbine exhaust housing for ceramic coating.

      I'd like to hear your thoughts and comets
      SR, MT, TiGray Gobi; slow project...

    16. #15
      As Macklemore said: this is fu****g awesome!

    17. #16
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      I think you should send that manifold to me for testing, I will return it promptly honest

      I really hope that fits, ask your guy if he would consider producing another one and if yes what would he charge for it?
      totally stock.. honest

    18. #17
      Are the oil inlet and outlet located on the top and bottom of the turbo with the turbo oriented like that (so that the oil will drain naturally with gravity back into the engine)?

      If the oil drain angle is any more than about 15 degrees from vertical oil can back up in the turbo charger and blow the seals.
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    19. #18
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      Quote Originally Posted by contrast View Post
      As Macklemore said: this is fu****g awesome!
      Thank you

      Quote Originally Posted by jstro View Post
      I think you should send that manifold to me for testing, I will return it promptly honest

      I really hope that fits, ask your guy if he would consider producing another one and if yes what would he charge for it?
      Sounds like a good deal, would you burn it in for me free of charge?
      Well, I'll send you his contact if you want to ask him. My manifold is still not finished and the build cost is quite high for one item. The price is not a secret, but I'd wait with total cost before we finish it with ceramic coat. I need to test fit it with my old engine before we can coat it.
      The price of that build is climbing to some figures I'd rather forget about...

      Quote Originally Posted by soupandspoons View Post
      Are the oil inlet and outlet located on the top and bottom of the turbo with the turbo oriented like that (so that the oil will drain naturally with gravity back into the engine)?

      If the oil drain angle is any more than about 15 degrees from vertical oil can back up in the turbo charger and blow the seals.
      Yes, the oil return was taken care of. It would be a shame not to do it properly once you are building the manifold. I'll post some pictures tomorrow
      SR, MT, TiGray Gobi; slow project...

    20. #19
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      happy engine is happy
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    21. #20
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      I love the new manifold and turbo setup! Will that fit in the engine bay though? I feel as if the top of the manifold will hit right under the hood cowl
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    22. #21
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      Zeljko_M's R

      I'm sure they measured or will make modifications to the hood/firewall it make it fit.

      What's the old saying, measure twice, cut once.

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      2005 Volvo S60R Ti/Nordkap *NAV, Climate Package, Premium Package, 18" Flat Black Retarded Flying Horse Wheels, 10mm spacers (all around), Engine Stabilizer Upper Polyurethane Bushing, HD Polyurethane Transmission Mount, Polyurethane Upper Engine Mount, GROM iPOD unit, 2 10" Infinity Subs, Phuzzy Motorsports HD-TCV, 3.5" Air Intake, Green Calipers, UR Brace Bars (Upper Front and Rear), IPD DEM Shield*

    23. #22
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      So are you using the 8374 or 7670? I thought you were using the 7670..
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    24. #23
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      Quote Originally Posted by Zeljko_M View Post
      New cooling pipe


      Mr Milakovic is proud to present his masterpiece
      and masterpiece it is...very nice Job Mr Milakovic ...main coolant pipe as well.

    25. #24
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      Quote Originally Posted by dougy View Post
      and masterpiece it is...very nice Job Mr Milakovic ...main coolant pipe as well.
      Yeah that coolant pipe is nice and shiny. Wish mine looked that nice
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    26. #25
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      Zeljko_M's R

      I'm using 7670. It might be enough

      Thanks for positive comments. We'll try to install the suspension and tow the car to my mechanic next week. We should find all the answers then.
      SR, MT, TiGray Gobi; slow project...

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      Zeljko , i see you guys reworked the coolant pipe completely for clearance of new turbo...and i see you're missing the coolant drain plug in the back of the block and the entire re-circulation loop that once went to oil/coolant cooler from your main coolant pipe, which i am sure you'll be using an external oil cooler anyway...are you planing to put one in/back? (the drain plug that is) and is it relevant to have and re-circulating back in the main coolant pipe from the block?


      Quote Originally Posted by Zeljko_M View Post
      New cooling pipe


    28. #27
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      Zeljko_M's R

      Hi dougy,
      Sorry for delayed replay.

      Yes, the heat exchanger will be installed back on the oil sump. The coolant drain port (The one on the drive end of the engine) will be returned.

      I plan on using the oil cooler from viva performance, and I'll try to introduce a oil pressure and temperature sensor so that I can keep an eye on the oil condition. If it would still be high on temperature I would then take the coolant line from the block and pass it trough the front mounted small radiator before returning it back to the oil/water heat exchanger.

      I would feel better doing that than having oil lines coming to the front of the car.

      To answer tour question, yes we need to close the loop with out using an external coolant pump. The biggest improvement (after installing bigger heat exchanger) might come from in line front mounted coolant radiator (which would drop the coolant temperature coming to the heat exchanger).




      Quote Originally Posted by dougy View Post
      Zeljko , i see you guys reworked the coolant pipe completely for clearance of new turbo...and i see you're missing the coolant drain plug in the back of the block and the entire re-circulation loop that once went to oil/coolant cooler from your main coolant pipe, which i am sure you'll be using an external oil cooler anyway...are you planing to put one in/back? (the drain plug that is) and is it relevant to have and re-circulating back in the main coolant pipe from the block?
      SR, MT, TiGray Gobi; slow project...

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      very nice work Zeljko, any additional pics of progress?


      Some paint finally













      Bolt ons



      the IC mounting:



      Turbo intake pipe:

    30. #29
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      turbine delivery pipe:


      engine bay with new manifold & air intake:



      and engine bay with intake & IC. TB is missing:

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      Hi Dougy,
      thanks for updating this topic for me, really nice from you!

      Well, things are moving forward with really small steps. Mr. Milakovic is nearly finished with the project and once the car is returned we will have to remove the old engine and install the new one.

      So far all the parts for the engine are here. I need to check if the valve o-rings were replaced on the engine head and tick that box if the new ones need to be ordered. I'll probably replace the oil pump with the one from T6 engine if I find figures that support the theory behind better delivery of the T6 pump.

      We need to find the solution for the thermal isolation of the firewall as the original thing got in the way to the big turbocharger and new manifold. I still don't have an idea on what to use for that purpose.
      The enxaust manifold and the exhaust turbine housing will be ceramic coated and warped with the thermal insulation to keep the engine bay temperatures down.

      All fuel mods have finally been finished.
      Original fuel rail got new teflon fuel delivery lines. There is an Bosch 044 fuel pump in the trunk which will be driven with the original PWM controller and now we need to find a way how to isolate the 044's bony from the ground as the PWM controller in connected between the ground and negative terminal of the 044. There are some teflon fuel lines with plastic braid and that should be perfect for the application.

      Some pictures to back up all the talk:


      The paint job is perfect. I am really happy with the way things turned out.


      The TB is missing here. We are looking at possibilities to paint the TB in the same colour but the thing needs to be baked at 200 deg. centigrade and I don't want to bake the TB's electronics... Probably it would be best to buy one housing, paint it and transfer the guts.


      The cabin heating has been a major problem as the big exhaust manifold was close and all the original plastic connectors were just sticking too far out for the turbo delivery pipe to fit.


      I'm thinking of sending off the new valve cover for the same paint job. It would look really nice in matt black, don't you agree?


      Return line from the swirl pot + another port for the return from the fuel rail if we end up installing the fuel pressure regulator valve. It all depends if the mastermind behind the Motronic will be able to concur the hardware and get the software sorted out. There is plan B for stand alone EMS.

      The progress on this project is really, really slow. I'm sure that once when this car hits the road again it will be really unique S60R. I just hope that I will not loose my mind before we finally get it running cause it feels like I do not own an S60R any more.
      People involved in the project are always asking about my expectations of the power output but I am really looking forward do HEAR the thing revving up to 8k. That would be all I expect from the car; sound! LOL, I'm crazy I know it.

      Please feel free to comment out as much as you like. Any constructive feedback is welcome.
      SR, MT, TiGray Gobi; slow project...

    32. #31
      Global Moderator CMOD_R's Avatar
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      What did you use for the heater core lines?
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    34. #33
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      Very nice build. So, what are your next steps? Swap the old for new engine together with all the new goodies like the manifolds and turbo? Will you be having a custom tune done for the ME7? How about boost control - do you have an electronic controller?
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    35. #34
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      Quote Originally Posted by CMOD_R View Post
      What did you use for the heater core lines?
      We are using just regular silicone hose with 90 deg. bent on it. There are some SS hose joints on the end of these pipes and that's where we'll connect the original circuit to. I'm planning on replacing the original heater core with a fresh one and then we might install some adequate connectors there...

      Quote Originally Posted by dougy View Post
      Very nice Zeljko...I'm not sure this might work in your case, but it might give you an idea.

      http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...replacment-Mod
      Thank you for that info. I'll have a look to see what your solution was. I was thinking of using something from this guys:
      http://www.zircotec.com/page/heatshield_products/97
      Thank you for the link, it is of great help. Past few years I just can't get enough spare time to read about all these cool P2R mods and bread threads.

      Quote Originally Posted by ElementR View Post
      Very nice build. So, what are your next steps? Swap the old for new engine together with all the new goodies like the manifolds and turbo? Will you be having a custom tune done for the ME7? How about boost control - do you have an electronic controller?
      Thanks!
      Well, I guess after we get everything out we'll need to work on heat shielding of the fire wall.
      Next would be to make all the wiring loom extensions. I want to keep the original loom and just add the female - male extensions so that it can all be removed and if I decide to replace the wiring loom I can order one from Volvo any time.
      I reckon that it will be easiest to build the new engine on the front subframe and install it all together ( intake manifold and IC would have to be installed later.
      We still need to find a method of bleeding off the IC and radiator properly to keep the system's performance. That shouldn't be a big deal.

      The ECM will have to be modified to use 5 EGT sensors in the process of producing smiles.
      I've been in touch with Mr. Daniel2345 who wrote ecm code for German's S60R. All the folks I know who had business with him are saying all the best and I will be really happy if he will accept the job and get the car up and running.

      I want to keep all the car's functionality as standard. So, there will be no manual boost controllers or anything bur the Motronic EMS. I hope to have Comfort mode limited to something similar to original (or with stage 2 tune). In advanced it would be nice to have what ever is safe to output (it doesn't really matter. It is an DD car after all.)
      And Sport would be a nice to sit somewhere in between the two.
      I'll be brutally honest; with all the hardware it will pull really hard and I don't really care how hard. All I really care about is all the orchestra sounds that the car will produce once running. I simply love t5 engine sound. Addicted! Stupid silly but I went to get one of the XC60 2.4D AWD because of the engine sound Luckily this is R-Forum and you guys do understand it well.

      After all, I am open to all the suggestions and if you think that I'm missing something important please write. It is all about doing it right on first time.

      Thank you all for feedback and comments.
      z
      SR, MT, TiGray Gobi; slow project...

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      I've forgot to add the photo of 3 tanks which are mounted in the boot.
      The biggest one is for IC coolant. Then Aquamist tank and a pump. The smallest one is actually carrying the fuel pot. The void space between the fuel pot is piped out from the boot (safety first ). Bosch 044 is bolted on the side of the tank too. We still need to isolate the 044's body from the ground...



      The round external pot on the right side is the ice reactor where I can install one frozen cylinder. If I'm not wrong there are couple of cylinders made for this project and it should keep me running trough entire summer time. Ice reactor is not the only thing keeping the coolant cold. There is a nice radiator where the FMIC used to be and that should work fine for the normal usage. The Ice reactor is just for couple of days when the temperatures are really extreme and in case I really, really want to have a nice day ha ha ha

      Hope you guys like the very last update
      Last edited by Zeljko_M; 06-18-2014 at 03:20 PM.
      SR, MT, TiGray Gobi; slow project...

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