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    Thread: Zeljko_M's R

    1. #71

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    3. #72
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      Quote Originally Posted by dougy View Post
      any more pics pics picsss? not of the washers...lol
      Maybe next month Dougy.
      Thanks
      SR, MT, TiGray Gobi; slow project...

    4. #73
      Member Hounddogger's Avatar
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      What do you expect your IATs to be with an air/water cooler compared to air/air? I'm a huge fan of charge air water cooling.
      Exponents kill
      Elsa my 2004 V70R Silver Metallic&Nordkap >π Miles
      Link to thread: wafflesv70r on Instagram Unofficial R part catalog and maintenance interval spreadsheet.

    5. #74
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      Air/water charge air coolers are great as long as you can keep them from getting heat soaked. Wonder what the ice reactor referenced at the bottom of page 1 is all about... is it for dry ice?
      07 S60R Electric Slvr/Nordkap 6MT RaceS60R FMIC, IPD Sways, Spec Stg3+ SMF, PDV Collar Sleeve, Hybrid K24, RS4 MAF, Devils Own Meth & Contrast Tune
      01 Audi S4 Silver/Black, Tial 605's, JHM, VAST tune, EST, Aquamist, etc. 475 awhp @25psi
      93 Mustang Cobra Black/Black, Incon Twin Turbo, Fully Built 347" engine, Megasquirt, Full MM suspension, etc. ~550rwhp @8psi

    6. #75
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      Great build! I'd love to drive an R down the coast in Croatia
      2006 S60R 6 Speed, Electric Silver/Nordkap, 18 inch Pegs, OBX Downpipe

    7. #76

    8. #77
      Member CKAVolvo's Avatar
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      I think it came out at 550 HP

      [IMG][/IMG]



      I feel lucky to be able to have that exhausted heading under the hood of my VR after a stop at Swain Coatings
      2006 V70R Black GT 377 awhp TME Exhaust, Girodisc 2 piece rotors IPD Sway bars, HD end links, Strut Brace, Poly engine mounts EST CAI, Silicone hose kits, SNABB intake, IPD HO coils,Enem Y21, CamsRaceS60R FMIC,Majestic Hybrid Turbo, HFS-4 water meth ElectronicsSPA digital Boost/EGT, ScanGauge II, Bel STiR ,Laser Interceptor HD front jammer, Mobileye collision avoidance system , LED interior lighting, ImiV, 2 USB, AARP member,

    9. #78
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      Morning gents, sorry for this delayed replay.

      Quote Originally Posted by Hounddogger View Post
      What do you expect your IATs to be with an air/water cooler compared to air/air? I'm a huge fan of charge air water cooling.
      Well, I expect things to run well. I don't have a figure that is my expectation, as nearly everything under neath the hood has been replaced so it is hard to take a reference from old setup. If this would have been IC upgrade only, then I would be able to do some comparison. What I expect to have is some bubbles trapped in the WIC core. These will decrease cooling efficiency of the system, and I'll have to see how to go around that problem once it happens.

      Quote Originally Posted by ElementR View Post
      Air/water charge air coolers are great as long as you can keep them from getting heat soaked. Wonder what the ice reactor referenced at the bottom of page 1 is all about... is it for dry ice?
      The Ice reactor should have matching cell that gets inserted in the tube. These cells should be kept in an freezer at home until you go to somewhere like Texas and you really wanna be the fastest guy off the stop light. I don't intend to do any drag racing with this car. For me, this feature will hardly ever be used.

      Quote Originally Posted by franjo View Post
      Great build! I'd love to drive an R down the coast in Croatia
      Thanks man! I hope you'll take a holiday one summer and maybe we meet on the coast

      Quote Originally Posted by StealthyS60R View Post
      After several years in the making, is there any dyno data for this car yet?
      No Sir. The car never run since the original engine came out. This might make it a record long bui... no, the Project Carbon holds that record, am I right?
      I do not intend to release any dyno graphs that are run in sport or advanced mode, seriously. So once you see the graph in comfort mode, you'll know that she is running finally

      Quote Originally Posted by CKAVolvo View Post
      I think it came out at 550 HP
      I feel lucky to be able to have that exhausted heading under the hood of my VR after a stop at Swain Coatings
      That is just an estimate that Mille has wrote on his web site.
      Well, your order has slowed down my project, if that makes you feel any better
      I hope you'll love that SS as much as I do, congrats on the project!
      SR, MT, TiGray Gobi; slow project...

    10. #79
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      If you size the pump correctly and don't create a trap for air to accumulate with the orientation of the cooler/coolant port locations, you should not end up with trapped air. Hard to tell from the pics, but it looks like you may have placed the coolant in/out ports on the cooler near the bottom... that will cause trapped air to accumulate. You really want the ports at the top as much as possible and combined with enough flow/pressure you will force air out. You may want to consider placing a bleed port (8-10mm) at the top of the outlet tank of the cooler and routing it to the suction side of the pump... or just make it a vent to atmosphere with a valve that you close. You'll likely have to play around with it to get it to function just right.
      07 S60R Electric Slvr/Nordkap 6MT RaceS60R FMIC, IPD Sways, Spec Stg3+ SMF, PDV Collar Sleeve, Hybrid K24, RS4 MAF, Devils Own Meth & Contrast Tune
      01 Audi S4 Silver/Black, Tial 605's, JHM, VAST tune, EST, Aquamist, etc. 475 awhp @25psi
      93 Mustang Cobra Black/Black, Incon Twin Turbo, Fully Built 347" engine, Megasquirt, Full MM suspension, etc. ~550rwhp @8psi

    11. #80
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      Quote Originally Posted by ElementR View Post
      If you size the pump correctly and don't create a trap for air to accumulate with the orientation of the cooler/coolant port locations, you should not end up with trapped air. Hard to tell from the pics, but it looks like you may have placed the coolant in/out ports on the cooler near the bottom... that will cause trapped air to accumulate. You really want the ports at the top as much as possible and combined with enough flow/pressure you will force air out. You may want to consider placing a bleed port (8-10mm) at the top of the outlet tank of the cooler and routing it to the suction side of the pump... or just make it a vent to atmosphere with a valve that you close. You'll likely have to play around with it to get it to function just right.
      Exactly as you wrote here, with addition to the coolant ports being located in the middle of the WC.
      I was thinking of tapping a whole on the highest wet side of the WC and installing a air release ball valve which should not leak coolant. That is the idea at least.

      It is still too early to say how will the original system perform. I can't wait to try it out
      SR, MT, TiGray Gobi; slow project...

    12. #81
      The drop in's are fine, and cheap n easy,

    13. #82
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      Wink

      News here!

      Got my exhaust header back from Milletech.
      Someone has ordered the same header for EFR 7670 turbo and I've generously sent my motor, gearbox, angle gear and all supporting hardware for the new header build.

      Now, there is a fundament for a challenge right there: - let's see who's R will spit fire trough that sexy Milletech header first?!
      So who is the lucky guy in the challenge? (I already know the name but I'm not sure If the build thread has been started)
      SR, MT, TiGray Gobi; slow project...

    14. #83
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      Quote Originally Posted by Dream3r View Post
      The drop in's are fine, and cheap n easy,
      I'm not sure what part of the drop in's are you referring to, but I can assure you that the word "cheap" is not the best adjective in my case. Considering that most engine externals had to be engineered (and payed) for this build I regret for nut running a project like this on an R8 Audi, or similar platform, as I feel like the whole build would cost exactly the same, with double the HP output.
      SR, MT, TiGray Gobi; slow project...

    15. #84
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      Good day folks!

      I was hoping to surprise you with the audio and video of the car running by the end of this weekend, but I have only a picture.

      The outcome of the build is:
      I was unlucky enough to receive a BW EFR 7670 with porous casting of the exhaust wheel. I found that out after I had to pull the engine out due to a leak on the coolant feed in to the turbo - yes, it was the front port which is only accessible if you remove your turbo and for that you need to pull the engine out. And then I noticed it, a small home on the exhaust wheel. I really think that it was intentionally let pass the quality control as that particular bade had a white paint on it, thus you could’t see the porous casting before the engine run for the first time. That’s about 120 seconds. I have purchased a brand new turbo in EU and got the engine back in.

      On Friday I finally got ready to test run the engine for the second time. Insurance payed and ready to put the test plates over the weekend… Started the car and got a nasty surprise again, haven't even left the garage. The block has cracked and a massive coolant leak developed at the rear of the engine at the back side of the second cylinder. I had to tow the car to another garage as this one has already been rented out to a new customer. Tomorrow is going to be a long day of pulling the engine out and stripping it. I can’t express my feelings on the white computer screen and I’ll let the pictures to say it all... I forgot to mention that this happened as soon as the engine warmed up for the first time, not even to a running temperature.


      Last edited by Zeljko_M; 03-19-2017 at 02:48 AM.
      SR, MT, TiGray Gobi; slow project...

    16. #85
      Member Hounddogger's Avatar
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      Oh no! That's miserable! Was it freezing that cracked it?
      Exponents kill
      Elsa my 2004 V70R Silver Metallic&Nordkap >π Miles
      Link to thread: wafflesv70r on Instagram Unofficial R part catalog and maintenance interval spreadsheet.

    17. #86
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      Quote Originally Posted by Hounddogger View Post
      Oh no! That's miserable! Was it freezing that cracked it?
      Nope, the engine was completely dry and the weather was not near the freezing temperature. I have pressure tested the coolant system before start up and it was not leaking there.

      This crack happened during the first warmup, maybe 2 minutes of continuos run with no load. The previous runs were maybe 20 to 30 seconds long each. I had a coolant leak on a banjo that I had to identify so the runs were short and engine didn't warm up like this time.

      I'll pull the engine out tomorrow and we'll start the autopsy.
      The deal for the repair has been set today. In about 30 days time I should have a new motor. It's not all lost.
      SR, MT, TiGray Gobi; slow project...

    18. #87

    19. #88
      Member Hounddogger's Avatar
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      Was it bad casting? Or a flaw someone introduced when the sleeved it or something?
      Exponents kill
      Elsa my 2004 V70R Silver Metallic&Nordkap >π Miles
      Link to thread: wafflesv70r on Instagram Unofficial R part catalog and maintenance interval spreadsheet.

    20. #89
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      Quote Originally Posted by dougy View Post
      wow...omg that sucks zeljko...any warranty on anything?
      No clue on that, but I'll let you know when I find out. I haven't even asked jet. I'm not sure if there is any point to that. I don't plan on shipping the engine out for R&R anyway. The shipping and rental garage price would definitely over kill the repair cost.

      Quote Originally Posted by Hounddogger View Post
      Was it bad casting? Or a flaw someone introduced when the sleeved it or something?
      I'd say it is a matter of the second one. A bad casting should have been visible...

      I'll see what will the dial indicators show when we pull the sleeve out from that seat. That should tell us more about the failure mode of the block. But I might expect miracle here.

      All I want now is to have my original R's block resleeaved. Someone on this forum has called it "the mockup engine" already. It's time to correct that!
      SR, MT, TiGray Gobi; slow project...

    21. #90
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      Talk about bad luck. Wow - that really sucks!
      07 S60R Electric Slvr/Nordkap 6MT RaceS60R FMIC, IPD Sways, Spec Stg3+ SMF, PDV Collar Sleeve, Hybrid K24, RS4 MAF, Devils Own Meth & Contrast Tune
      01 Audi S4 Silver/Black, Tial 605's, JHM, VAST tune, EST, Aquamist, etc. 475 awhp @25psi
      93 Mustang Cobra Black/Black, Incon Twin Turbo, Fully Built 347" engine, Megasquirt, Full MM suspension, etc. ~550rwhp @8psi

    22. #91
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      Quote Originally Posted by Zeljko_M View Post
      No clue on that, but I'll let you know when I find out. I haven't even asked jet. I'm not sure if there is any point to that. I don't plan on shipping the engine out for R&R anyway. The shipping and rental garage price would definitely over kill the repair cost.


      I'd say it is a matter of the second one. A bad casting should have been visible...
      guessing, i'd say second one as well ...good luck to you zeljko.

    23. #92
      Wow man sorry for the troubles.
      05 S60R MT, 578AWHP, 12.2 1/4 mile at 124 mph. Ported GTX3576R, Tial 44MM MVR WG, Tial QR Bov, Enem Y21 Cams, Hilton Tune, 1000cc Id's, 340 LPH Aero pump, Devils Own Progressive injection, 4 In Audi maf, Catless DP, EST CB W Res Del, FMIC, Snabb air box, Poly mounts, Milletech intake manifold, IP plasma coils, Snabb shifter. Viva SMF, Spec Stage 3 +. GB Forgestar F-14's, Enkei RSF5, KW V2'S, Ur Braces, Vr sways, IPD toe bars. Built to the hill.

    24. #93
      Member jstro's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Zeljko_M View Post
      Good day folks!

      I was hoping to surprise you with the audio and video of the car running by the end of this weekend, but I have only a picture.

      The outcome of the build is:
      I was unlucky enough to receive a BW EFR 7670 with porous casting of the exhaust wheel. I found that out after I had to pull the engine out due to a leak on the coolant feed in to the turbo - yes, it was the front port which is only accessible if you remove your turbo and for that you need to pull the engine out. And then I noticed it, a small home on the exhaust wheel. I really think that it was intentionally let pass the quality control as that particular bade had a white paint on it, thus you could’t see the porous casting before the engine run for the first time. That’s about 120 seconds. I have purchased a brand new turbo in EU and got the engine back in.

      On Friday I finally got ready to test run the engine for the second time. Insurance payed and ready to put the test plates over the weekend… Started the car and got a nasty surprise again, haven't even left the garage. The block has cracked and a massive coolant leak developed at the rear of the engine at the back side of the second cylinder. I had to tow the car to another garage as this one has already been rented out to a new customer. Tomorrow is going to be a long day of pulling the engine out and stripping it. I can’t express my feelings on the white computer screen and I’ll let the pictures to say it all... I forgot to mention that this happened as soon as the engine warmed up for the first time, not even to a running temperature.


      I may be blind but I am not seeing any crack
      totally stock.. honest

    25. #94
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      one inch 10 o'clock above that black 10 mm bolt in the center of the pic and it continuous behind the main coolant pipe.

    26. #95
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      Morning all,

      I've pulled the engine out yesterday.
      The crack is a bit larger than anticipated.



      It will be interesting to see the relation of the ARP stud to the position of the crack. That's the first thing I'll check today.

      I've talked to a friend who has over 340HP/1L engine and he pointed me to a machinist who does installs the Dartons and tests the block at 90 degrees centigrade @ 30Bar, on the coolant side I assume.
      The machinist should come with a quote for reinstalling of the Dartons to my OEM block. I am really excited now

      Stay tuned!
      SR, MT, TiGray Gobi; slow project...

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