2008 - DIY remove waterfall and auto shifter...
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    1. #1

      Cool 2008 - DIY remove waterfall and auto shifter...

      So this weekend I ended up pulling apart the waterfall due to a malfunction with the blind in the shifter... If you're thinking "what is a blind in the shifter?" never fear, I didn't know what it was called either. But when it decides to muck things up, it really effs with your Volvo's world...



      So the shifter wouldn't go into park... made for an interesting day until we could start pulling things apart..

      The tools I used were:
      2 flat head (one small, one large) for wedging pieces apart
      T20
      T25
      pocket knife

      So as stated in an earlier thread (and most of this first part is going to be exactly the same but the newer models are a bit different)...

      Step 1 is to unhook the green connector from behind the waterfall then you can pull this panel off from behind the waterfall (really do those in whichever order you prefer). I wrapped a washcloth over the bigger flathead and pryed until I could reach my finger under, then just pull it away. Repeat prying it on the other side.


      Step 2 remove this nifty little panel from around the e-brake


      Step 3 open the armrest and remove the 2 torx screws


      Step 4 pull the trim (and cupholder cover) just straight up off, only thing connecting it are tabs. Between the armrest and the cupholder area there's a piece which stretches down into the console and takes some wiggling and patience to get out (or back in). Toward the front there's the connector for the 12-V (note: not much slack with this, so be careful)




      Step 5 you have now revealed the front screws! Which is the easiest part of these screws lol
      The one on the passenger's side is lower, you can get it an an angle but be careful not to strip it. The one on the driver's side is so close to the trim for the console that it actually get stuck against the trim unless you have a second person physically force the trim up and out of the way - even still, you've got to get some small fingers in there to coax the screw out and pull it free... I did not put that screw back in because there was no possible way to do it. Have fun with that - I will note that the waterfall doesn't rattle so, no big loss.


      Step 6 remove the plate around the radio unit. I tried this with the screwdriver, kept scratching up the plastic so I switched to the knife which was a better tool IMNSHO.


      Step 7 remove the screen. It slides out, but takes some persuasion. Just push from behind and wiggle until it slides forward. Unclip the white and black connectors (don't worry about which came from where, they are not only different shapes but the corresponding female connectors are color-coded as well). Also interesting note - should you need to drive anywhere at this point, you'll have no guages or other dash information and no air circulation.


      Step 8 (possibly optional) I removed the shelf thingy from behind the waterfall - I felt it gave me more wiggling room. just pull up from the middle (there's a hole you can put your finger through) then pry each of the rear corners where indicated.


      Step 9 pull the waterfall toward you and just gently wiggle it free. To note, there's a rubber bib that you'll need to tuck in upon reinstall.


      This is where we change to removing the shifter:
      Step 1 is removing the automatic shift knob. The collar at the bottom screws off to drop down (it screws the opposite way) and then just pull straight up on the knob... no really - this is tug-of-war with your car. It won't break, but you must win to advance. To note: when putting it back on, place the collar onto the knob near the very bottom then just slam it back into place - if you don't put the collar back at the bottom of the shifter (as I stated, loosely - don't screw it into place yet) then you won't get it back to where it goes. Then you screw the collar back up and voila!

      Just wiggle this (starting from the front) and it'll come free easily.

      Step 2 gently pry up the circuit board. Start where indicated, so the other back corner, then just gently lift it off.


      Step 3 remove this piece... start from the passenger's side (as the clips on this side face out where the other clips are facing the front/back - see photo)


      Step 4 you're there! Pull off the old one and replace with the new one!



      Now, just everything else in reverse order (I tried to note any tricky bits on the reinstall above...)
      and don't forget to mention your helper... or the being that kept standing on the bits you were trying to remove...


      Some of the photos were taken out of sequence and you'll notice the difference in the pieces before and after they received a good washing (ew!). I tried to resize them all down so that they would be more user friendly... sorry if some are still large :/

      I also painted my key to match my Volvo. (because why not)


      I taped off the Volvo emblem, key knob, buttons, and the slider bit which releases the other key.
      Turned out good...
      Last edited by KimberKenobi; 03-31-2012 at 08:56 PM.

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    3. #2
      Nice job, thanks for the pics. Will be doing this very soon!

    4. #3
      Good grief they made it complicated.... That looks like it took a lot longer than my 60 second video.

      Good write up, I'm guessing you've done this on other forums.
      Interesting idea about the key, only negative will be seeing how well it holds up over time. Did you clear coat it?

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    6. #4
      Moderator aldebaran's Avatar
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      Looks like its a lot more trouble on the facelifted model year. I only had to pop the cigarette lighter cover to get to the bottom two torxs for the waterfall console.

    7. #5
      Good write up. I'll probably use it when I try to USB my c30


      Sent from my iPhone4S using Tapatalk while on the toilet.
      2008 Passion Red C30 6 Speed M/T
      V1 with Preferred, Climate Package and Dynaudio.
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    8. #6
      Global Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      This thread has been added to the sticky. Thanks!

    9. #7
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
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      Just a note on step #6. The best way to remove the surround is a small screwdriver through the CD slot angled to the outside. You can press the attachment clips outward & not mar the finish in any way. Take a look at the trim piece after it's removed & you'll see what I mean. Take a new picture & I'll delete this post.
      2007 V70 5 Speed
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    10. #8
      MyNameIdeasWereTaken: I did clear coat it. It should hold up good... I painted my lower grill on my other car this way and it held up good... I'm hoping my keys won't get as much abuse... lol I taped off everything (including the undersides as I took the key apart and did both sides at the same time) and did 2 layers of Krylon Plastic Paint (I used blue because I already had some of that color), 3 layers of the color-keyed spray, and 2 coats of the Volvo clear that came with the color-keyed spray.
      Also, I have done write-ups on my Versa Forum. Unfortunately, it rained hard all this morning and I may not get time to mess around with the headlights this weekend :T

      aldebaran: it was! I was using the old thread as a starting point and those 2 screws at the bottom are complete bastards! lol

      pczeilon: Next time I'm in there, I will try it that way and take a new pic! lol thanks for the suggestion!

      I tried to be as thorough as possible to help others with the newer models!

    11. #9
      Moderator aldebaran's Avatar
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      It was an excellent effort regardless. I love detailed write ups with plenty of pics.


      Welcome to Swedespeed too.

    12. #10
      Thanks! Also, I just realized how freaking easy it is to remove the headlights on this car... really? You pull a pin and then the whole thing just comes out into your hands?!?!? Do you know what I had to do to get the headlights from my Versa out??? I had to destruct the entire front end... I had to remove parts from the engine compartment, the grill, AND THE ENTIRE FRONT BUMPER COVER!!! I'm messing around with those LED's now... lol

    13. #11
      Junior Member ion's Avatar
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      There's another way to get access to those two front waterfall console screws, it's shown here: Bluetooth Installation Instructions (Steps 13-20). Basically, you remove two screws under the armrest and behind the waterfall console, then slide the entire center divider back, revealing the two screws.

    14. #12
      I remember you mentioning that... but I couldn't figure it out (and we couldn't get that panel in the console up to reveal the mentioned screws) I'm going to have to do that and photo that as well... good link!

    15. #13
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      FYI: If you have the BLIS system, then Step 4 is damn near impossible to get the front of the trim out, and it IS impossible to get it back in without breaking the tabs that hold the button and module into place.

    16. #14
      Hi All,

      I just replaced the shifter blind in my 2008 Volvo c70 following these directions. The shifter blind works fine, BUT now all of my dashlights, speedometer, odometer, tachometer, temperature gauge etc stopped working! This literally occurred instantly after I replaced the shifter blind, and then turned on the car. Any help? The interesting part is, the radio didn't lock out.

      Thank you for any help.

      hansel

      Edit: The lights are now working. I drove the car for 10 minutes, came home, parked it, and when I went back out to it, all of the gauges are working again. Any clues as to WHY this might have happened?
      Last edited by hansel; 12-06-2015 at 01:58 PM. Reason: it works again!

    17. #15
      The waterfall and screen also control the gauges. If they weren't plugged in all of the way (or if you out the key in while these were unplugged) it would cause the problem you had.

      If it happens again, disconnect your battery for 20 minutes and replug the waterfall and screen. You will not need to remove the waterfall to do this.

    18. #16
      Successfully got the interior taken apart an the old waterfall removed... what was left of it.
      There is a small rectangular magnet that appears to be part of this assembly... and it way broken off and lying under the plastic piece that houses the slide cover and circuit board.

      What does that do?

      I cleaned the parts a bit that I thought would possibly interfere with the car going fully into park.

      With the circuit board off and no new slide cover yet... I attempted to get the key out... but no luck.
      Does that magnet trigger something on the circuit board to allow the key to be turned all the way to 0 position?

      Thanks for any insight... new slide cover is on order, and yes, I have my key stuck in the ignition.
      2008 Volvo S40 2.4i

    19. #17
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      Quote Originally Posted by ion View Post
      There's another way to get access to those two front waterfall console screws, it's shown here: Bluetooth Installation Instructions (Steps 13-20). Basically, you remove two screws under the armrest and behind the waterfall console, then slide the entire center divider back, revealing the two screws.
      Thank you for posting that link. I had been looking at DIYs and how-to's on here and youtube but not much exists for the 2008+ model.

      Doing it the way Volvo describe, sliding the centre console rearward to reveal the screws, is very simple. I swapped all the trim, including the door handles, in lest than an hour, taking my time.

      I had bought the trim from a wrecker, although its mint, so it didn't come with the coin trays. I had to trim a bit of plastic from the coin tray insert and from the underside of the new trim piece to allow it to fit.

      The Nordic Oak looks way better than my old beat up aluminium.
      2008 V50 T5 AWD

    20. #18
      I'd like to add my $0.02 and add a few (important) tips

      * unplug the cigarette lighter when proceeding to unscrew the screws for the waterfall. It will save you a lot of screaming

      * GO BUY ALLEN KEY TORX BITS. you will absolutely save yourself a ton of time in doing so (along with screaming, thrashing, and giving up)

    21. #19
      Just wanted to say thanks for the post. Instructions where clear and pretty easy to follow. Especially that bit about the helper - made all the difference:






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    22. #20
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      I just did this on the C70, and there are a couple of additional steps. I just put a post on the C70 thread.

      However, I wanted to comment here, because in my post, I note that the Handbrake Access panel will likely break or get marred, it's a suuuper soft plastic. So you can preemptively order a new one from the Dealer. Just provide your VIN and the part number is 39850614. It costs around $11.

      http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...25#post5417225

    23. #21
      Member thefisch33's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Carondelet View Post
      I just did this on the C70, and there are a couple of additional steps. I just put a post on the C70 thread.

      However, I wanted to comment here, because in my post, I note that the Handbrake Access panel will likely break or get marred, it's a suuuper soft plastic. So you can preemptively order a new one from the Dealer. Just provide your VIN and the part number is 39850614. It costs around $11.

      http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...25#post5417225
      Thanks. Sticky this for those of us with the 08-. I messed up my e brake panel too. I'll be ordering a replacement! Thanks for the part number!


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    24. #22
      Quote Originally Posted by thefisch33 View Post
      Thanks. Sticky this for those of us with the 08-. I messed up my e brake panel too. I'll be ordering a replacement! Thanks for the part number!
      Done!

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