Turbo Lag, what to do? what to do?
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    Results 1 to 13 of 13
    1. #1
      Hey guys,
      I have a 96 volvo 850 turbo wagon. It has turbo lag, obviously, and I dont like it. This is probably one of those things that are impossible to fix, and I bet a manuel transmission would go a long way in fixing it. Im not gonna do that though. Anyway, how can I get a bit more off the line punch. Would changing the blow off valve or waste gate do much, will a chip co much for this, an exhaust, etc. I did add a air filter, but that was only marginal towards fixing the problem. It does make a cool noise though, hehe. Anyway, anyone gotten it so that when they launch the car you get a little wheel spin, or that sports car take off, rather than the granny take off until the turbo kicks in. I mean when Im at a red light, next to a r$ce Burner, and we floor it, and we are neck in neck until my turbo kicks in, it just doesnt look as good as when I can blow them away. I like its power once its going, I mean when Im on a track, or braking the law, and going in excess of 100 mph, its acceleration through there is decent, not great, but decent. Anyway, some help would be greatly appreciated.

    2. #2
      Global Moderator GrecianVolvo's Avatar
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      quote:
      Originally posted by pj's 850:
      Hey guys,
      I have a 96 volvo 850 turbo wagon. It has turbo lag, obviously, and I dont like it. This is probably one of those things that are impossible to fix, and I bet a manuel transmission would go a long way in fixing it. Im not gonna do that though. Anyway, how can I get a bit more off the line punch. Would changing the blow off valve or waste gate do much, will a chip co much for this, an exhaust, etc. I did add a air filter, but that was only marginal towards fixing the problem. It does make a cool noise though, hehe. Anyway, anyone gotten it so that when they launch the car you get a little wheel spin, or that sports car take off, rather than the granny take off until the turbo kicks in. I mean when Im at a red light, next to a r$ce Burner, and we floor it, and we are neck in neck until my turbo kicks in, it just doesnt look as good as when I can blow them away. I like its power once its going, I mean when Im on a track, or braking the law, and going in excess of 100 mph, its acceleration through there is decent, not great, but decent. Anyway, some help would be greatly appreciated.


      I will leave the technical aspects for the experts...Perhaps a wastegate adjustment will help a bit but I doubt it will cure the lag (come on man, it's not that bad!).

      One thing that a lot of turbo owners don't do is launch their cars the right way. Because the car is a turbo that does not mean that, while at a standstill, you just mash the gas pedal down to the floor and the car will spew flames from its exhaust! You can try a couple of things: one is to get used to using both feet when driving (takes some practice, spend the time in getting used to it), meaning left foot on the brake pedal and right on the gas. While you wait at the light (and while you are trying to block the sound of the r1ce fart muffler bellowing) try to build th RPM up to about 2,000 (at 2,200rpm your Turbo is ready to go) and when the light turns green, well, let "nature" take its course.

      I, personally, like the "gradual" acceleration. Just rev up a little bit (no more than 1,200 or 1,300 rpm) and when you are ready to go, push the accelerator only about 3/4 of the way down...not all the way, you may get jumped but it will only be momentary (and that is a big "if")...as you go into the 2nd gear (you have to know when your transmission switches--I assume you will be in "Sport" mode anyway) then you MASH it all the way. I guarantee you that you will accelerate quicker this way. You just have to practice it a few times, on your own, as if you don't get it right you will be chasing.

      I don't know how old you are but...be careful! Only do this when you have an open road ahead of you...not in traffic. It's not worth it. Just let idiots who want to race you in traffic win...The best racers are the smart racers. Pick your battles and you will always come on top!

      Yannis

      2001 Volvo V70 T5 M SR, Classic Red/Graphite Lthr, TME Stage II ECU, 3" Downpipe w/ Cat-back exhaust from MTE, Volvo Roadholding & Lowering Kit w/ Nivomats, 17" PEGASUS, Rear Spoiler, Dolby Surround Sound
      2015.5 XC60 T6 AWD R-design, Crystal White Pearl w/ Front Heated Seats/Platinum/BLIS package

    3. #3
      After the w/g adjustment, get an exhaust. That really helps as well.


    4. #4
      ok thanks. I have done launches using the two footed brake deal. I think I read about it once, tried in a parking lot. You are very right, you do have to be careful, first time I did it, I revved to high, let off the brake and the wheels just broke loose, car slid sideways with almost no forword movement. OOPs! Tires are too expensive for that stuff, yeah the smoke looks cool I guess, but not worth it. I do have a question of reliability. Is that bad for any part of the car, such as the brakes or transmission. I worry about that, sometimes. I read once that someones car would idle right, it was ideling at like 1200 rpm or something like that, and that when he got home the brakes were smoking. I think it was an older car with some issues, so I dont know if this can even aply to what Im doing. Now I had read, I think in the forum, that adjusting the waste gate isnt the best idea, because the stock chip doesnt allow the extra boost, or does it have some range. Now would adding an aftermarket wastegate, turbo controler, blowoff valve deal be any good. I dont really understand turbos much, but if any of those parts mentioned will benefit the cars performance any.

    5. #5
      Ok, there are several questions...
      - It isn't great for the brakes when you brake torque it, but you don't need to do it for longer than half a second (for the revs to get up where you want them). It is worse for the tranny/running gear than the brakes. Plus, brakes are cheap... (well, in comparison)
      - There is a MUCH bigger difference from holding the brakes stopped for maybe a second, to trying to fight an engine to stop over and over again trying to get home. The main problem with driving a car like that would be the heat created by the brakes b/c they never get a rest and they can actually melt/glaze the pads and tarnish the rotors. 850s especially have poor ventilation to the brakes. (I tarnished my last set :rolleyes
      - The art of launching your car is finding the perfect throttle/brake/rpm combo that comes as close as possible to spinning the wheels w/o actually doing it.
      - Chip is the best easiest mod to do that will give you decent power gains, I would start with that.
      - You have to have a chip to use a boost controller, and if you get a chip, then there isn't really a point in getting a boost controller
      - A BOV (Blow off valve) won't give you any more power, but when you start adding boost, it will take the extra abuse off the waste gate and you also get the ever so cool WOOOOSH
      out of time, I have to go to class...


    6. #6
      First off, I adjusted the the waste gate a but ago, and then went for a nice spirited drive through some country roads. I did notice a the turbo spooling up a bit quicker. One thing though, it seemed like when it shifted into maybe third or fourth, and the turbo meter would drop, the car would kinda stop accelerating for a second, as if it took longer now for the turbo to spool back up. To be honost I have done that kind of Higher speed driving, dont worry I wasnt speeding much, in a while, so it may have always done it, infact it may have been that moment or something. Who knows. Anyway, I like that adjustment, works pretty good. It said 3-5 turns, so I did 4, its inbetween, I was afraid to try 5. If I go to far, will the check engine light come on, but no damage, or is it a bad thing to do. I think a whoosh would be cool, but not 200 dollars cool. HEHE! How are the BSR chips and exhaust. Im talking quality, reliability, and sound of exhaust. I like the volvo sound, but I would like more of it. How does replacing a chip work, I know about the installation part, but as far as getting it. My understanding is that you can either send your in for reprograming or trade yours for one that has been reprogramed. Its my only car, since Im only 21, and I wouldnt want much down time, a weekend, a few days, maybe a week, thats fine, but I dont know about sending the chip in, I would much rather just pop in the new one and send the old one back. Then I have what, maybe half hour to an hour down time. Oh by the way, I blead on my turbo, those screws are dangerous, I think that made it go faster. HEHE! I also burned my arm a little, now no wise cracks about you are supposed to wait for the engine to cool, cuz I did, for as long as my patients would hold up, but the engine block stays hotter than the other stuff, even the turbo didnt seem hot, though I could have been touching the cool side. I know what would make my car faster, NOS, yeah, nothin like a few liquid pistons through my hood, hehe. I saw that once at a race, stupid kid, installed it himself, upgraded pistons, to lasy I guess to change the rods or whatever. Anyway, he was running a turbo and way too much nitrous through a japanese four banger. You know the kind. Floors it, wheels spinning, smoke from the front tires, then like a small explosion sort of thing, hood is pretty ripped up, and something went flying out. Kid ran out of the car as the red hot piston, well it wasnt really red, but I do believe it was hot, came down on the car. It was amazing, I didnt know what happened at first, actually I dont think anyone but the kid knew what happened. I still dont get how that happens, someone tried to explain it, but I was a little confused. Oh one last thing, is there only one place for the BSR stuff in the United states, I assume they have 850 stuff still, though its not on the web site, and does anyone know the price, or estimate it, is it the same for all the volvos. By the way, I love my volvo, I think I want to keep it forever, cuz its so nice and comfortable, and when you want it, its got some gidyup! Thanks in advance and for the other advice already given.

    7. #7
      lmfao...heres a cool question to ask people.." is nitros oxide combustible?" meaning is it flameible...the obvious answer being no.. NO2.. one nitrogen 2 oxygen.
      when running nitros oxide you are flooding the engine with oxygen, more o2 more fuel, more fuel more revs..more revs, more power. and so on. in the end more money!!!and a piston dropping on your head!.

    8. #8

    9. #9
      Turboale/Austin,

      How do you like the ipd exhaust? Howz the drone-factor w/it? I was thinking of going with a custom, but nobody in Alaska has the machinery... except an aviation company and they didn't say no, they said "hell no," that they wouldn't bend pipe for me.

      /Scott


    10. #10
      Scott,
      I really like the exhaust, the fit and finish is perfect and it will probably outlast the car... There is the low "drone effect" that only occasionally comes up on the high way when you are partially on the gas, but I don't really notice it anymore. If anything, its too quiet. Overall it basically just adds a little bass on the low end. When I'm really on it, I can barely tell there is a difference. I think its because at higher rpms the engine gets just as loud as the exhaust so you don't really notice. I have actually been pondering the idea of taking off one of the silencers... but I'm not convinced its worth it yet b/c I'd want to be able to put it back on with ease. I just wish I could compete with the sound of my friend's S4 with the UCC :drool: oh well... one day... she will be mine aanyway... I think we should get different exhaust notes from different systems and post them up. I have have a few I could put up... I'm curious to see how the SS and BSR compare as well as Kai's Fire breather


    11. #11
      quote:
      Originally posted by turboale:
      I'm curious to see how the SS and BSR compare as well as Kai's Fire breather

      I'll try to record something this weekend then. Let's see if someone can bring a video cam or tape recorder to the OR GTG.


    12. #12
      I'd be there in a second if I could... We will have to make a video when I do finally make it up there... One day.... one day.....


    13. #13
      Turboale:
      I have the IPD exhaust also and felt that it was too quiet too. So I did just what you are thinking of doing, I removed the last silencer. I went to my local exhaust shop and had them make me a 3 inch replacement for the last 3 feet or so eliminating the last round silencer. I had them neck down the 3 inch pipe to slip over the IPD 2-1/2 inch and used the same clamp from the IPD system. Also it was real easy to place the needed hangers on the new pipe to secure it properly. So if I wanted to I could switch back to all IPD exhaust in about ten minutes.
      Sound wise it is a little louder at an idle and has more bass to the note. Definently sounds better, with more authority. At part throttle it does not sound much louder than the complete IPD system, but under heavy acceleration with the boost up, it gets fairly loud but not obnoxiously loud. It really brought out the distinct 5 cylinder tone our cars can make and my friends say it sounds like a piston driven jet engine with the turbo creating pressure in the exhaust. It's pretty cheap to do also since your only buying a small lenght of pipe. It cost me $45.00 I say you go for it and see how you like it. I am very happy I did, plus the IPD portion i took off looks cool hanging on my garage wall...
      MIKE