Advice on suspension upgrade/replacement and also 100K tuneup

[Fantom]

Hi, have a 2004 V70 2.5T...mostly a grocery getter. However, I'd like to fix it up a little bit. 105K on the odometer and still on original shocks/struts so that's a priority. I run the sport package 17 inch rims.

Here's what I'm considering:

a) Bilstein HD shocks/struts - any feedback, and any recs on the best online source to buy this for the lowest cost shipment to CA would be helpful

b) Springs - not sure what to do here, heard good things about various lowering springs like Eibach. I think coilovers are probably overkill. My concern is the tires already rub at full lock (yes, that famous problem)...so wondering if lowering will just exacerbate the issue.

c) what other suspension components are required for a good job? I saw another post in this forum that mentioned also buying new end links and spring seats and strut seats. What about bushings?

c) tune up - wondering what to buy here - I probably need to just go to an independent mechanic with my parts and ask for the 100K mile tuneup. I see there is a Volvo tuneup kit for my car. I'd like to hit the major components (spark plugs and wires, air filter, fuel filter, etc) but not sure what else might be important.

[Fantom]

Looking for any input.

[repacs0103]

I have the same car.

a) Bilsteins will be great, though certainly stiffer than stock. Koni would be another good option. FCP has great prices.

b) I run Eibach springs and am very happy. It's not a huge drop, but the ride is really great still.

c) Definitely do spring seats and strut mounts (the mount includes the strut bearing) if you do struts and springs. XC90 mounts are an upgrade I believe. Your sway bar end links will likely need some attention, also look at the tie rod ends and LCA bushings...they go bad A LOT on this chassis, and you might as well do it all at once so you only need one alignment.

d) In addition to what you mentioned have the PCV system checked, you'll likely be due for an oil trap and perhaps some lines or fittings- the system is only designed to go about 120k. You might also want to check your turbo soft lines- the small one right at the turbo and the one at the end of the charge pipe into the intercooler- the factory rubber deteriorates with age...ipd sells a nice set of replacement silicone hoses.

e) Make sure to service the trans!!! A full flush with Mobil 3309/Toyota T-IV fluid is ideal; ipd and a couple other sources sell a cheap kit to do the flush.

[JRL]

120K my a**
On most of these cars with "normal" 7500 mile oil changes, the breather system is completely clogged at 90K!

[repacs0103]

120K my a**
On most of these cars with "normal" 7500 mile oil changes, the breather system is completely clogged at 90K!

That figure from Volvo goes in the same category as "lifetime transmission fluid".

[Beck]

I have the same car on Eibachs and Bilstein SP. Get Bilstein HD if keeping original springs. Replace all parts of suspension (seats, links, strut bearings).

[thaxman]

That figure from Volvo goes in the same category as "lifetime transmission fluid".

And 105K belt/tensioner/idler pulley.
What are the symptoms of the PCV death? Mine has 106K, bought at 91K, and passed the OBDII plug in emissions test just in Dec.

[repacs0103]

You'll likely find excessive oil consumption and additional oil in the intake and charge air tract. Blue smoke through the exhaust and the tattletale popping dipstick from crankcase pressure can happen too. If you're at 106K, it's at least partially sludged.

[Beck]

AutoRX can help you reduce a lot of that sludge safely. Worked wonders on the sludgy engine I bought years ago.

[1998 S70]

Is it possible that you can use Seafoam to clean out your PCV system? Is there enough vaccuum in the PCV system to suck the product in and clean it out? I assume the charcoal canister can handle liquid no problem. My coffee maker and Brita water filter us the same concept of charcoal filtering right? Let me know guys how you would go about cleraning your pcv system. I bought a new hose but installing it might be more than I can handle since I have to drive my car 7 days a week for work.

[acools]

FCP (FCPeuro.com) has a whole kit for the suspension, my XC70 front rear rear shocks/struts, end links, strut mounts, A-arms, strut bumps and the like is about $900 and includes every part you need for a complete suspension overhaul. I would replace plugs, air/oil/fuel filter, service PCV, change T-belt, tensioner, S-belt, leave the water pump if it isn't leaking, flush the transmission, check service interval on brake build/coolant/PS.

To the OP, you have coil on plug ignition, no more plug wires. Your coils can go bad at 100K, keep an eye on them

Andres

[thaxman]

You'll likely find excessive oil consumption and additional oil in the intake and charge air tract. Blue smoke through the exhaust and the tattletale popping dipstick from crankcase pressure can happen too. If you're at 106K, it's at least partially sludged.

The PCV? or the engine? Kinda wondering if the PCV was the straw that got the car traded in, as I seem to have none of the symptoms at all.

[1998 S70]

BTW BECK That AutoRX product looks like it only works on metal. I check the website. The whole pcv system is plastic & rubber/silicone so I cringe at trying that on the pcv system. That's kinda what I'm trying to figure out as well with Seafoam. But I am assuming not until I hear from someone or I get the lowdown from Seafoam themselves.

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk 2

[Fantom]

Just wanted to say I appreciated all who have responded to this thread, especially to members repacs and acools.
I have just ordered the full set of Bilstein HD's from FCP, as well as their OEM tune-up kit, and will be taking the car in to my local mechanic for installation as soon as the shipment arrives.

And on that note I'd also like to extend a big thanks to Chris at FCP who helped me out and got me the parts I needed at a very fair and reasonable price. I am sure I will go back to him for more parts after I get on the other side of this suspension upgrade and tune-up work.

[JRL]

Hope you have strong kidneys, BIG mistake (IMO)

[Fantom]

What would you recommend ?

[V70x2]

Hope you have strong kidneys, BIG mistake (IMO)

What do you have suspension wise?

I'm starting to look at replacement suspension, and always hear people saying "Bilstein". Are they that harsh?
The monroe are so much cheaper, I would expect them to be closest to oem, without paying the oem prices.

[JRL]

HDs are

[cafe]

I have the same car with the same mileage and did the entire job you are referring to (struts, a-arms, tie rod, sway, ball joints) along with timing belt, water pump, and tensioner etc...

A Volvo dealer out of Bend, Oregon had the best price on the timing belt/tensioner/water pump that I ran into- $570 out the door.

Went with Bilstein HD's front & back from autoparts warehouse for $209 on the struts and $126 on the shocks.

Tasca parts for everything else (they were the cheapest for OEM by a longshot and only a couple bucks more than aftermarket). I would suggest staying with OEM with the exception of the Bilsteins (thats just a "imo" since a lot of supposed OEM companies have shifted to China and the quality has suffered)>

As mentioned - Would suggest using the XC90 mounts.

The job isn't that hard to do it just takes time.
I suggest reviewing the online resources for DIY and picking up a electric Milwaukee 1/2" impact ($170 great investment - everything comes off very very easily with this) and you can rent for free everything else from autozone assuming you have basic tools and a floor jack.

Doing the a-arms and the struts at the same time is a piece of cake - just remove the strut and use a tie down strap to support the front hub assembly ( I ran it through the open mount and attached it to the sway bar - installing the a-arms without the strut in the way is a piece of cake.

The HD's are a bit stiff but the ride is superb (I went with stock height and used my old springs).

In regards to a trans fluid flush - I have talked to a couple of tranny peeps and have also read about not doing a trans fluid "flush" since most trans fail shortly afterwards. However, they do recommend multiple "changing" the fluid over time ( I hope this makes sense).