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Anything to know about installing new DP & exhaust? +kb ;)

4K views 30 replies 16 participants last post by  senordude 
#1 ·
Hey guys so I'm making a jump from my stage 0 to 2.
Which means I'll be pulling off my stock down pipe and exhaust- is there anything I should know or do so this goes smoothly? I'm going to hit all the bolts a head of time with PB blaster to try to make em easier to remove.

Anything else I should do/know?

Sweet jesus!
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Use air tools if possible, and be prepared as you may have to cut flange bolts from DP to stock exhaust for removal.
 
#4 ·
There are A LOT of recent threads on how to do this... impact tools, PB, a torch, maybe an o2 spacer if you get a CEL, use OEM gaskets, new hardware, have fun(?)

Thanks for the KB tho :D
 
#5 ·
^ Rust, corrosion, impossible... all of these. Most aftermarket cat-backs include DP flange bolt replacements.
 
#6 ·
TONS of PB are needed however chances are, if you take the thing off as much as me...You will need to replace some Turbo studs....well at least I will the next time I take her apart. When replacing nuts and bolts STAY AWAY FROM Stainless and Copper...they WILL gall and you will be angry. Steel Flanged is where it's at as Titanium for a nut would retard your spending for a week or so.
 
#7 ·
I installed my obx yesterday...the bolts were by far the worst... then the o2 sensor wouldn't come out even after heating it up and... had to gringer the thing out of the old dp and then dremel the fitting off.
 
#14 ·
im planning on doing the OBX DP as well...and actually, i was wondering...Is it required to have a software tune when upgrading the DP? I already have the OBX cat back with stock tune and stock DP, but now i want to do the OBX DP as well...
 
#17 ·
I sprayed my bolts down the night before I took my car up to Phuz for him to install the DP and FMIC. He said he has never had DP bolts come off so easily. Maybe the drive helped? He installed both the FMIC and DP in like 5 hours. Maybe it was luck? Who knows?
 
#19 ·
My nuts came off very easily with a box end ratchet. The advantage of nut and stud design.
As others have said, get an O2 wrench.
As you will be replacing the complete exhaust system, don't worry about the DP to exhaust bolts, cut them off.
 
#20 ·
Two points come to mind, and I am surprised no one brought them up.

By replacing the exhaust and DP, you reduce the back pressure and you can run the engine pretty lean.

You might consider replacing the injectors and/or having a tune applied.

I believe it isn't immediately critical, the car can be run and driven for some time for for long-term usage this would be better.
Would anyone care to weigh in on the topic?

Andres
 
#22 ·
+1 i agree, thats what i meant above.

fine to run for a while, safer to have tune in case the ecu can't cope and you end up running lean. people have run with dp/catback/no tune for a long time with no noticeable effects.
 
#21 ·
yea, me neither, i dont think that running rich/lean has anything to do with your exhaust pipe. It mainly pertains to your full injectors, O2 sensor read back, and the MAF. Those are the critical components to determining the best air/fuel mixture...The exhaust is just exhaust...
 
#23 ·
i dunno, the engine is just a giant pump, if you reduce back pressure and are pushing more through the system and the ecu can't account for it by pushing enough fuel you will lean out. yes, the sensors/maf will detect this but if the stock tune can't adjust accordingly is where the risk comes. Can the stock ecu account-probably, i just wouldn't run it long term. just get the tune and the power increase.
 
#25 ·
She has such a nice butt+body my jaw just hit my desk.
 
#26 ·
Amazing what you can do with photoshop huh?
 
#27 ·
Yes it is.
 
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