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    1. #1
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      Transmission flush..

      So, I'm going to attempt to replace the trans fluid. I read this: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...-Change-How-To

      ... and feel I have a good idea of what I need to do. I did want a couple things clarified though since JAGMAN was changing the fluid in his 6spd manual, not an automatic:

      1. Is there a filter that needs/ should be changed with the fluid?
      2. Is Mobile 3309 the preferred fluid.. or would it be better to use this instead since it's synthetic (and not much more $): http://www.ipdusa.com/products/7793/...redline-d4-atf
      3. Do I need to have anything reset in the computer after changing the fluid?

      Oh.. and any special tools I need to purchase before I drain the fluid again? LOL

      Thanks!
      Last edited by blairboy3; 05-19-2012 at 08:30 PM.
      2005 Volvo S60R: Black Sapphire/ Nordkap; GT5spd; BONE STOCK (Working on it... just bought it! )
      2002 Chevy Tahoe LS: 5.5L; Headers; K&N CAI; TDI Throttle Body Spacer; Predator Tuned
      1968 Plymouth Fury: 383 w/ TF727; Holley 830; Hooker Headers; Performer RPM Nitrous Kit; 3.91 Sure-Grip

    2. #2
      Member ions's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by blairboy3 View Post
      So, I'm going to attempt to replace the trans fluid. I read this: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...-Change-How-To

      ... and feel I have a good idea of what I need to do. I did want a couple things clarified though since JAGMAN was changing the fluid in his 6spd manual, not an automatic:

      1. Is there a filter that needs/ should be changed with the fluid?
      2. Is Mobile 3309 the preferred fluid.. or would it be better to use this instead since it's synthetic (and not much more $): http://www.ipdusa.com/products/7793/...redline-d4-atf
      3. Do I need to have anything reset in the computer after changing the fluid?

      Oh.. and any special tools I need to purchase before I drain the fluid again? LOL

      Thanks!
      1-life time filter. You can change it if ya want tho.
      2-yea, 3309 is the preferred, next is the toyota branded oil then next would be one of the Amsoil brands
      3-if you have VIDA/DiCE you can reset the transmission service setting.

      Are you flushing or just draining and filling through the dipstick?

      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      2005 Volvo S60R Ti/Nordkap *NAV, Climate Package, Premium Package, 18" Flat Black Retarded Flying Horse Wheels, 10mm spacers (all around), Engine Stabilizer Upper Polyurethane Bushing, HD Polyurethane Transmission Mount, Polyurethane Upper Engine Mount, GROM iPOD unit, 2 10" Infinity Subs, Phuzzy Motorsports HD-TCV, 3.5" Air Intake, Green Calipers, UR Brace Bars (Upper Front and Rear), IPD DEM Shield*

    3. #3
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      flushing.. the fluid is pretty dirty (Brownish-red instead of reddish-brown) & is starting to smell a little burnt.
      2005 Volvo S60R: Black Sapphire/ Nordkap; GT5spd; BONE STOCK (Working on it... just bought it! )
      2002 Chevy Tahoe LS: 5.5L; Headers; K&N CAI; TDI Throttle Body Spacer; Predator Tuned
      1968 Plymouth Fury: 383 w/ TF727; Holley 830; Hooker Headers; Performer RPM Nitrous Kit; 3.91 Sure-Grip

    4. #4
      Member ions's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by blairboy3 View Post
      flushing.. the fluid is pretty dirty (Brownish-red instead of reddish-brown) & is starting to smell a little burnt.
      Just order the iPD flush kit and the funnel and you should be set with everything you need. The kit comes with all the little clips and everything you would need. The funnel is useful also.

      You could also just source a tube also from lowes/home depot or whatever. I'm not sure if the clips are reusable since I've never flushed before (THE TRANSMISSION! the toilet I flush tho ) and also I believe on the Rs you use the lower trans line and not the upper, I could be wrong tho

      Also, got my case of 3309 HERE


      http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...php?f=1&t=8767
      "Important- Please Read This First (Info for P2 Cars):
      I need to add this information at the very beginning of this write up so that there's no confusion. What is outlined below is for all AWD/FWD Volvo's up until the design was changed for P2 cars ('01 and later), but the method is really the same. What is different is that the newer (P2- or '01 on) Volvo's transmission fluid flows in the opposite direction. In other words, when you take the tanny-to-radiator line off, you actually let the tranny flush out of the upper hose connection on the radiator with the newer Volvo's unlike what is written below (therefore you'll have to get clear tubing that has an outside diameter of 3/4 inch that goes INTO the ATF cooler on the radiator, unlike what is said below of a 1/2 inch inside diameter hose for pre '01 70 series and 850's), which shows the hose still connected to the trannyhose itself (earlier than '01 Volvo's). If you have a newer Volvo and don't do this, you'll make a mess as fluid will come flowing out of the top of the radiator. Several people on other boards have experienced this and were quite surprised (especially since IPD's instructions were wrong too). Volvo actually recommends for the P2's to take the hose off at the tranny, plug the tranny hole with a plastic stopper, and drain from the hose still attached to the radiator (which makes sense but the tranny hole is a biatch to reach). To disconnect the upper hose on the P2 cars, grab the green clamps on each side of the black hose, push in and then pull out. To reinsert, just pinch the clamps again and push the hose in as far as it will go and then release the tabs. For good measure, pull on the hose without pushing in the tabs to make sure it's secure. It's actually much easier on these later cars than on the older ones. You can get a case of the Mobil-3309 ATF fluid (JWS-3309 fluid must be used on Aisin Warner 5 speed automatic transmissions and not Dexron III)"
      Last edited by ions; 05-19-2012 at 10:22 PM.
      2005 Volvo S60R Ti/Nordkap *NAV, Climate Package, Premium Package, 18" Flat Black Retarded Flying Horse Wheels, 10mm spacers (all around), Engine Stabilizer Upper Polyurethane Bushing, HD Polyurethane Transmission Mount, Polyurethane Upper Engine Mount, GROM iPOD unit, 2 10" Infinity Subs, Phuzzy Motorsports HD-TCV, 3.5" Air Intake, Green Calipers, UR Brace Bars (Upper Front and Rear), IPD DEM Shield*

    5. #5
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      Thanks ion... Much appreciated!
      2005 Volvo S60R: Black Sapphire/ Nordkap; GT5spd; BONE STOCK (Working on it... just bought it! )
      2002 Chevy Tahoe LS: 5.5L; Headers; K&N CAI; TDI Throttle Body Spacer; Predator Tuned
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    6. #6
      Member ions's Avatar
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      let me know how it goes.
      2005 Volvo S60R Ti/Nordkap *NAV, Climate Package, Premium Package, 18" Flat Black Retarded Flying Horse Wheels, 10mm spacers (all around), Engine Stabilizer Upper Polyurethane Bushing, HD Polyurethane Transmission Mount, Polyurethane Upper Engine Mount, GROM iPOD unit, 2 10" Infinity Subs, Phuzzy Motorsports HD-TCV, 3.5" Air Intake, Green Calipers, UR Brace Bars (Upper Front and Rear), IPD DEM Shield*

    7. #7
      planning on doing this pretty soon.

      someone recently did a good pic write up for us gt guys to use
      07 s60r gt

    8. #8
      Junior Member bimmerd00d's Avatar
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      I just followed that guide on the M66 this weekend. I wouldn't recommend a total flush unless you have 30-50k miles. I would drain, replace filter, fill. If you want a flush, do it again in another 15-20k miles. I've watched a number of GM and ZF transmissions kick the bucket after a total flush.
      2004 S60R 6-spd - Black/Nordkap, 18" Pegs, OEM BT, GROM, doesn't need anything else - 113k
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    9. #9
      Member ions's Avatar
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      Yea If you have higher mileage or have never changed the fluid before I would drain, refill, drive a couple days and repeat and that should be better.
      2005 Volvo S60R Ti/Nordkap *NAV, Climate Package, Premium Package, 18" Flat Black Retarded Flying Horse Wheels, 10mm spacers (all around), Engine Stabilizer Upper Polyurethane Bushing, HD Polyurethane Transmission Mount, Polyurethane Upper Engine Mount, GROM iPOD unit, 2 10" Infinity Subs, Phuzzy Motorsports HD-TCV, 3.5" Air Intake, Green Calipers, UR Brace Bars (Upper Front and Rear), IPD DEM Shield*

    10. #10
      Junior Member CandyChrome's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by stepintoliquid View Post
      planning on doing this pretty soon.

      someone recently did a good pic write up for us gt guys to use

      THis is the recent write up that I just did back in march...
      http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...lush-Procedure
      However this is for the 6speed TF-80SC for th 06-07 R...looks like blairboy3 has the 5speed auto, maybe you can use it as reference im not sure...
      2007 S60 R >> Nordkap Int./Magic Blue Ext. >> 6 Spd GT >> OEM 18" and Sideskirts >> K&N Air Filter >> IPD USA SPEC Ipod Integration >> Elevate Front Bumper w/ Silver Grills and Oznium LED Flex Strips >> Viva FMIC Upgrade >> Snabb Air Intake >> Viva CBV >> OBX Cat-Back Exhaust w/resonator >> New 125mm Volvo Emblem >> GlowShift Boost Gauge >> IPD HD R Coil Packs

    11. #11
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      OK.. so I'm doing this this weekend. Thanks for the link CandyChrome, you did a great write-up!

      I got a flush kit ordered from IPD. I'm going with my gut & decided the mechanics at the dealership are worried about covering their asses and couldn't tell me that Mobil 3309 is just fine for my GT5... so I bought 2 cases for the flush.

      Now, before I do this... is a full flush recommended for my car? I have 97500 miles on it. The service records show a valvebody replacement @ 62,546 miles. BUT, it looks like they only replaced what fell out of the pan ( Work order only shows a charge for 1 bottle of 1161640 Trans Oil). SO.. is replacing all my fluid going to remove all the wonderful goodness floating around in my caR's transmission and cause it to slip more than a bikini wearing hottie in an oil wrestling competition? Or should I be O.K.? LOL

      Thanks all!
      2005 Volvo S60R: Black Sapphire/ Nordkap; GT5spd; BONE STOCK (Working on it... just bought it! )
      2002 Chevy Tahoe LS: 5.5L; Headers; K&N CAI; TDI Throttle Body Spacer; Predator Tuned
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    12. #12
      Junior Member BumpinVolvo's Avatar
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      I would say you should be fine. I flushed the first time a couple years ago with mobil 3309 and just a few weeks ago with the toyota t-iv fluid. Both times a noticeable increase is smoothness was noticed. My first flush was done about 75k and most recently @ 130k. Neither time did anything other than dark burnt fluid come out, no solids or anything.
      2004 S60R Silver/Nordkap 158k
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    13. #13
      Junior Member Paisley Pirate's Avatar
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      Anyone have any luck using the Seafoam transmission product prior to a dump and refill? Just wondering if it would loosen up some of the grunk and let it get out of the trans.

      I am getting ready to do a drain and refill, because I, too, have seen several transmissions grenade immediately after flushing.
      2004 S60R Auto Silver/Nordkap, 18" Pegs, Bob Villa mod, CAI mod, Trans cooler, HID fogs, SS brake lines, Stage 0 (again)... this is Volvo #16...
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    14. #14
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      Well, I'm definitely no expert... but it seems the Seafoam dissolves any solids that accumulates. So that being the case, I don't think it would make anything worse than it already is. I also think that doing the flush using only the trans pump (not the high pressure flush pump your local jiffy lube uses) would not knock anything lose that isn't already floating around. Otherwise, it would have done it already caused an issue... right?

      My worry is that the friction materials that have accumulated over the last 97000 miles and are suspended in the fluid are holding everything together. And, if I flush all that out, the clutches & bands won't grip like they use to, and cause a trans failure. I don't know. It seems to be an issue when flushing high mileage cars that have never been flushed or had a fluid/ filter change. Is 97000 miles too long to go without a flush? I can't verify if one was done @ 50,000 miles per the factory service schedule, and have to assume that it wasn't.
      2005 Volvo S60R: Black Sapphire/ Nordkap; GT5spd; BONE STOCK (Working on it... just bought it! )
      2002 Chevy Tahoe LS: 5.5L; Headers; K&N CAI; TDI Throttle Body Spacer; Predator Tuned
      1968 Plymouth Fury: 383 w/ TF727; Holley 830; Hooker Headers; Performer RPM Nitrous Kit; 3.91 Sure-Grip

    15. #15
      It's been like 3 weeks, do it already gesh.

    16. #16
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      LOL.. I know. Life gets in the way though. I've been working nights & weekends to meet a deadline.

      Not only that, but you start reading more posts & talking to mechanics & you (I) start worrying about every little thing.
      2005 Volvo S60R: Black Sapphire/ Nordkap; GT5spd; BONE STOCK (Working on it... just bought it! )
      2002 Chevy Tahoe LS: 5.5L; Headers; K&N CAI; TDI Throttle Body Spacer; Predator Tuned
      1968 Plymouth Fury: 383 w/ TF727; Holley 830; Hooker Headers; Performer RPM Nitrous Kit; 3.91 Sure-Grip

    17. #17
      Quote Originally Posted by blairboy3 View Post
      LOL.. I know. Life gets in the way though. I've been working nights & weekends to meet a deadline.

      Not only that, but you start reading more posts & talking to mechanics & you (I) start worrying about every little thing.
      And this is why you have a shop do it.

    18. #18
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      No... this is why I've never had to pay a shop to do anything on my cars- except smog checks & the timing belt on my Honda. That thing needed the driverside fender removed to get to anything. I just didn't want to deal with it! LOL.

      I research, bug the **** out of people who know more than me (like you guys), and get all the info I can so that I feel comfortable doing it myself.

      I maintain my own house... even added 800sq. ft. to it. (I'm an architectural draftsman... no stranger to construction). I've maintained every car I & my wife have owned: '67 Dodge Coronet, 89 Olds Cutless Supreme, '90 Chevy Silverado, '99 Isuzu Rodeo, '68 Plymouth Fury, '02 Chevy Tahoe, '95 Honda Accord... and now this caR- which is by far the nicest, most technical car I've owned. I like a good challenge though. So thanks for all your help, seriously! I appreciate the advice (even if it's not intended as advice )
      2005 Volvo S60R: Black Sapphire/ Nordkap; GT5spd; BONE STOCK (Working on it... just bought it! )
      2002 Chevy Tahoe LS: 5.5L; Headers; K&N CAI; TDI Throttle Body Spacer; Predator Tuned
      1968 Plymouth Fury: 383 w/ TF727; Holley 830; Hooker Headers; Performer RPM Nitrous Kit; 3.91 Sure-Grip

    19. #19
      Member ions's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by blairboy3 View Post
      No... this is why I've never had to pay a shop to do anything on my cars- except smog checks & the timing belt on my Honda. That thing needed the driverside fender removed to get to anything. I just didn't want to deal with it! LOL.

      I research, bug the **** out of people who know more than me (like you guys), and get all the info I can so that I feel comfortable doing it myself.

      I maintain my own house... even added 800sq. ft. to it. (I'm an architectural draftsman... no stranger to construction). I've maintained every car I & my wife have owned: '67 Dodge Coronet, 89 Olds Cutless Supreme, '90 Chevy Silverado, '99 Isuzu Rodeo, '68 Plymouth Fury, '02 Chevy Tahoe, '95 Honda Accord... and now this caR- which is by far the nicest, most technical car I've owned. I like a good challenge though. So thanks for all your help, seriously! I appreciate the advice (even if it's not intended as advice )
      get to it boy!
      2005 Volvo S60R Ti/Nordkap *NAV, Climate Package, Premium Package, 18" Flat Black Retarded Flying Horse Wheels, 10mm spacers (all around), Engine Stabilizer Upper Polyurethane Bushing, HD Polyurethane Transmission Mount, Polyurethane Upper Engine Mount, GROM iPOD unit, 2 10" Infinity Subs, Phuzzy Motorsports HD-TCV, 3.5" Air Intake, Green Calipers, UR Brace Bars (Upper Front and Rear), IPD DEM Shield*

    20. #20
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      Well... that was pretty darn easy. I could see how it would be a little bit more of a pain without another set of hands when it came to watching the & adding the fluids. I pretty much followed CandyChrome's write up to the letter & it all went fine. Used 12qts of fluid over all, plus a few 12oz beers, and it made for a nice Saturday afternoon. IPD flush kit is handy, too!

      Thanks guys!
      2005 Volvo S60R: Black Sapphire/ Nordkap; GT5spd; BONE STOCK (Working on it... just bought it! )
      2002 Chevy Tahoe LS: 5.5L; Headers; K&N CAI; TDI Throttle Body Spacer; Predator Tuned
      1968 Plymouth Fury: 383 w/ TF727; Holley 830; Hooker Headers; Performer RPM Nitrous Kit; 3.91 Sure-Grip

    21. #21
      Member ions's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by blairboy3 View Post
      Well... that was pretty darn easy. I could see how it would be a little bit more of a pain without another set of hands when it came to watching the & adding the fluids. I pretty much followed CandyChrome's write up to the letter & it all went fine. Used 12qts of fluid over all, plus a few 12oz beers, and it made for a nice Saturday afternoon. IPD flush kit is handy, too!

      Thanks guys!
      A+

      did you use the upper rad line or the lower?

      Did you drain the transmission or just pop the hose in, drain 2qt then replace 2qts?


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      2005 Volvo S60R Ti/Nordkap *NAV, Climate Package, Premium Package, 18" Flat Black Retarded Flying Horse Wheels, 10mm spacers (all around), Engine Stabilizer Upper Polyurethane Bushing, HD Polyurethane Transmission Mount, Polyurethane Upper Engine Mount, GROM iPOD unit, 2 10" Infinity Subs, Phuzzy Motorsports HD-TCV, 3.5" Air Intake, Green Calipers, UR Brace Bars (Upper Front and Rear), IPD DEM Shield*

    22. #22
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      I used the upper line, and didn't drain the pan... just drained 2qt. & re-filled. The fluid looked clean & red at the end.
      2005 Volvo S60R: Black Sapphire/ Nordkap; GT5spd; BONE STOCK (Working on it... just bought it! )
      2002 Chevy Tahoe LS: 5.5L; Headers; K&N CAI; TDI Throttle Body Spacer; Predator Tuned
      1968 Plymouth Fury: 383 w/ TF727; Holley 830; Hooker Headers; Performer RPM Nitrous Kit; 3.91 Sure-Grip

    23. #23
      Junior Member bimmerd00d's Avatar
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      Interesting, when i did my AOC it was 12oz of fluid and 12qts of beer
      2004 S60R 6-spd - Black/Nordkap, 18" Pegs, OEM BT, GROM, doesn't need anything else - 113k
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    24. #24
      Member ions's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by blairboy3 View Post
      I used the upper line, and didn't drain the pan... just drained 2qt. & re-filled. The fluid looked clean & red at the end.
      Awesome. Thanks.


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      2005 Volvo S60R Ti/Nordkap *NAV, Climate Package, Premium Package, 18" Flat Black Retarded Flying Horse Wheels, 10mm spacers (all around), Engine Stabilizer Upper Polyurethane Bushing, HD Polyurethane Transmission Mount, Polyurethane Upper Engine Mount, GROM iPOD unit, 2 10" Infinity Subs, Phuzzy Motorsports HD-TCV, 3.5" Air Intake, Green Calipers, UR Brace Bars (Upper Front and Rear), IPD DEM Shield*