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New member. Just got an 04 V70 R

97K views 501 replies 89 participants last post by  technicalminded 
#1 ·
Hello everyone. New to the forum. I had a 94 850 turbo wagon with pegasus wheels back in 04 or so. Since then I have built a real nice 92 BMW E34 turbo as well as a 72 Datsun 510. I sold the 510 shortly after getting married and since my BMW is making 375 RWHP, I decided I needed a nice DD. I was unable to get the 2 95 cream yellow T5-R wagons I was looking at so I got the 04 V70 R instead. I decided on auto so the wife could drive it as well. It's got 81k miles and is in great shape. Needs a new passenger side front strut and possible some bushings and engine mounts.

I plan on doing a projector retrofit, paint the inner housings grey along with the exterior trim and 18" pegasus wheels. Then I want to lower the car 1-2", and tint the windows. That's really all I want to do for now.











 
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#248 ·
I just mean that I used to send clients etc to them who didn't know about cars. They would go over the car and find every single possible thing wrong and put it on an invoice. They weren't telling them that none of it was mandatory or a threat to the vehicle's safety/longevity etc. But for a regular person, they might assume all that stuff needs to be done. I even tried to tell the owner not to do that to people I sent over but he continued so I stopped sending them. Patrick is a great guy and they have a great new shop. I refer people in the know to them but not people who are uninformed. But since my buddy Clay started working with Thayer, I have been sending people there because it seems like the labor charge is lower. I have never verified that though. I use Import Autohaus personally simply because it's close for me and they know me so they never try to take advantage. In fact, most bills come in slightly under quote. If Thayer/Bimmer Rescue/Delta V were closer, they would be my go to. I used Import to do all the X5 work, Delta V did cam seals and timing belt on the R and Thayer built the diff in my M7 as well as the BBK install on my old LSx 427 E39 touring. I have a 4 post lift and do a lot of my own work but ever since my son was born, I let shops do the stuff I just don't feel like messing with :)
 
#250 ·
Just make sure you prep the console well. Wash it really good and wipe down with some alcohol etc. The SEM stuff says it has plastic adhesion promoter built in but I still sprayed some first.

*

I am torn on which direction to go with the car. I am tempted to do some performance mods but not sure what’s the best bang for buck. It is an auto afterall as well…. I was thinking replace the muffler with a Borla XR-1 as those are my favorite aftermarket, my friend has a nice intake for it as well as a new set of door panels. I definitely will be doing the front lower and rear upper arms soon and have thought about doing the rear subframe bushings. Curious how difficult those are to do and if they go bad as often as the ones in the BMW E39 wagons. I would like to do sway bars too but that seems like a pita to do since the subframe has to be dropped IIRC. Would love any advice on some of the better items to start off with on a car with 145k.
 
#252 ·
S50 and s52 cams work in the m52 head. My m52 made 200 rwhp w just the cams and 413 dme.
 
#254 ·
No problem. I just realized I've just passed the 5 year anniversary of having the R :) 2nd longest I've ever owned a car.
 
#256 ·
Wow... really? I'm on my eighth in 35 years of driving, but the first three were Chevy, and lasted about a year to a year and a half each. Had the Toyota for 10+. Damn - did I just count 35 years?!?
 
#257 · (Edited)
I'm 38 and have had 26 cars. E34 525 I owned for 7 years, R for 5 and I had the e39 touring for 4 years. The rest of all been 2 or less. I owned a 16k mile original 71 datsun 510 for 30 days last year :)

Cars in order from first to last purchase

In order

1953 Chevy truck

1987 Nissan Maxima

1987 Nissan Maxima

1992 Nissan Maxima

1967 Datsun 1600

1987 Nissan Pathfinder

1998 Lexus GS400

1995 Nissan 240sx silvia swap

1993 Nissan Pathfinder

1994 Volvo 850 estate

1969 Chevy C10

1986 Nissan 720 truck

1972 Datsun 510

1986 Nissan 720 truck

1992 BMW E34 525i

2001 Nissan Xterra (step-daughters current)

2004 Volvo V70R (current)

1986 Toyota truck

1999 BMW E39 528it

2003 BMW M5

2007 Mercedes AMG E63

1995 Nissan d21 hardbody (current)

1971 Datsun 510

2001 BMW E38 740i (current)

2003 BMW X5 (wife’s current)

2001 Nissan Frontier
 
#260 ·
I appreciate the thorough advice!
 
#261 ·
No problem, but keep in mind much of that stuff I haven't actually done yet, just my plans. Don't follow the blind man...

I actually forgot to mention one thing, I'd also look into a DIY 'shift kit' for the AW55; I'm not aware it ever being done on an R but I've seen guys with other cars replace the accumulator springs with an aluminum sleeve. This should quicken the shift and reduce the apply time of the clutch packs in the trans, should reduce heat & wear. I wish I tried this on the 5HP I rebuilt in my 7, but just the rebuild took long enough.
 
#262 ·
Understood. Interesting on the trans.

I'm not sure I want to go poly or delrin on the bushings. In the past I have regretted that on other cars. But I know the R is a different animal altogether in regards to suspension.
 
#263 ·
In searching my parts cabinet, I found new OE rear bushings and front Powerflex purple bushings along with new OE ball joints for the front control arms. So I should probably save money and go buy a press for the garage instead of paying a shop or buying new complete arms.

It also looks like the rear lower arms don't wear and instead there is a toe link with two bushings. I assume that's the one to replace. What about the upper arm with the bump stop?
 
#264 ·
You can do the front LCA bushings with a vise. I actually just clamped the center pin of the front bushing with the vise & turned the LCA until the pin tore out. If your bushings don't come with the metal sleeve you can scrape with a chisel then wire brush, or if they have sleeves just collapse them with a chisel and remove.

ball joints are in the knuckles and come out/go back in pretty easy with an air hammer.

While youre in there I'd recommend checking your tie rods and end links.
 
#265 ·
Thanks for the tips. Don't have an air hammer but should. I'll take a trip to Northern this weekend and might get a press anyway. Always wanted one. Did tie rods and end links not too long ago.
 
#266 ·
My front arm power flex bushings are just the bushings. Do I remove the front mount pin from the stock bushing and re-use it? If so, I may just get a complete bushing instead. I don't see the rear toe link with the two bushings on FCP so perhaps they just sell the bushings individually and you re-use the short aluminum housing? Also, when I replace the rear 4c's, is it wise to also replace the upper mounts? In photos, I can't see any rubber so seems silly to replace if just aluminum. But I would imagine there is a rubber mount and if so, I would absolutely replace while doing the shocks. I am basically looking to replace all the main wearable bushings/ball joints etc front and rear and want to order all parts tomorrow.
 
#267 · (Edited)
There are rubber spring seats, strut top bearings up there. I knew the spring seats were toast on my car, and I just went ahead and ordered the bearings too.

Based on how long cars live with you this may not matter but FCP has a lifetime warranty, on everything.. I like to go with OE suppliers from them, and they package kits too. Heres one, I'm not recommonding ( nor not not recommending...) this one, just fyi and to link you to the site:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-front-suspension-kit-comprehensive-sachs-struts-oem-mounts-vfsk5-sachs?ads_cmpid=352577839&ads_adid=22972759279&ads_matchtype=&ads_network=g&ads_creative=85227243679&utm_term=&ads_targetid=pla-36409535322&utm_campaign=&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&ttv=2&gclid=CMGOncLSvtQCFUM2gQodsZYPoA

Btw, they have complete bushings, but reusing the pin and sleeve with what you have isn't a big deal if you will have a press, but of course your call.
 
#268 · (Edited)
Yeah, I order most of my parts from them since I have had so many BMW's. I did the entire front strut assembly and am ready to tackle the rear so I want to make sure I do all the "while in there" stuff.
 
#269 ·
Sorry, I'm a dufus, I read right over you stating your doing the rear.

There is a spring seat that my OCD would force me to change if I was doing a refresh but I dont believe its problematic like the fronts (since the fronts hold the upper shock mount, the rears dont).

Other than changing springs and tweaking the height sensors (by bending the rods) I haven't yet had the pleasure of redoing anything in the rear suspension, hopefully someone who has will chime in.
 
#270 · (Edited)
Hadn't read about bending the rods. Wish I wasn't blocked from this site at work. Too hard to research on the phone and I spend most of home time doing other stuff. Just happens to be raining today.. so much to learn now that I've decided to finally go a little nuts on the VR..

The other auto projects that I work on. Wifeymobile is the 03 X5 4.6is and my usual DD is the 70k mile 95 Nissan D21 but I have an internal oil problem and it's been parked on my lift for a few months while I try and source parts for an engine rebuild. I have done an 87 Nissan pathfinder front end conversion, Bilstein HD shocks, light bar and modified to fit Toyota specific aftermarket wheels.





 
#271 · (Edited)
To be clear I only bent the rods so that the sensors would be in the middle of the range at the final ride height, determined using VIDA& a chinese knockoff DICE unit.

You certainly have a knack for flipping cars. I thought I've had a lot; I'm 41 and have only had ~20, 22 counting the cars I bought Mrs 377Z, though when I add them up I seem to leave some out and past a certain point I'm not sure of the sequence as many tenures with me overlap.

Since I cold turkeyed bimmerforums I lost track of your escapades too, :p last I remember you had a Toyota 4X and the green 510.

PS I too hate searching on a phone, perhaps you could tether in via a tablet, at least over lunch or something. So much easier on a tablet.
 
#272 ·
Seems like the Elevate springs are pretty good for lowering the car a tad and not being harsh. Anyone with experience who can confirm?
 
#273 ·
That's a good looking Nissan (for a Nissan)! Didn't know there was a mod to do that face change. I guess if adam_nonnis can combine an R and an XC, Nissan pathfinders and pickups can be combined too. I've a bit of a hankering for a clean 'Yota like I had back in the day.
 
#274 ·
My old Yota.

 
#275 ·
I gotta go back and look at your list. 86?
Super looking. Really gorgeous. When you're in D.C. (If ever), let's meet up.
My old Yota.
 
#277 ·
Bought a 20 ton press and cleaned the garage. Ready to tackle the front control arms.
 
#279 ·
Haha

I've been looking at Elevate tuning products on fcp. Leaning towards intake, downpipe, exhaust and tuning. Still undecided on springs but leaning towards Elevate on those as well. Any feedback?
 
#280 ·


 
#281 ·
Got the rear 4c connections loose. Also got the driver side ball joint in. I had the wrong front bushings and had to order the correct ones.









 
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