S60R / V70R HOW-TO: Replacing PCV Breather (Crankcase Vent)
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    1. #1
      Junior Member vLGrok's Avatar
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      Lightbulb S60R / V70R HOW-TO: Replacing PCV Breather (Crankcase Vent)

      DIY: Positive Ventillation Crankcase (PCV) Breather Box: P2 VOLVO 2004 S60R

      *** MOSTLY COMPLETE -- BUT STILL DRAFT STATUS ***

      While you can piece it out, I purchased this kit to save me time researching parts:
      PCV Breather System Kit from IPD

      Still TO-DO in writeup:
      Turbo Inlet Pipe
      Positive Crankcase Ventilation Box
      Banjo bolts (2)
      Water pipes

      P R O C E D U R E S:

      Removal and Disassembly

        P101 Disconnect Battery
      1. Disconnect negative (black) battery terminal.

        P102 Engine Mount Bar removal
      2. Loosen upper engine mount with 15mm shallow socket and and 18mm wrench.
      3. Remove the 14mm bolts on the 2 mounts at either end of bar.
      4. Remove bolt from upper engine mount and remove bar.
      5. Insert the mount bolts back into the holes for storage or plastic bag them.

        P103 Charged Air Pipe removal
      6. Loosen worm clamp on intercooler side and slip hose off pipe. Insert shop rag into hose to block.
      7. Remove the two CAP mounting screws. Front is a Torx 25, back is 10mm.
      8. Using 4mm Allen key, loosen screw on clamp holding CAP to Turbo.
      9. Stuff a clean shop rag halfway into turbo to prevent entry of foreign objects.

        P104 Engine Covers removal
      10. Torx 25 remove all 8 bolts from spark plugs cover, remove spark plugs cover.
      11. Torx 25 remove the 2 bolts from timing cover, unclip cover from front, then back, and remove.
      12. 10mm socket, remove 2 caps from Fuel Rail cover. Place all these 12 bolts together in a plastic baggie.
      13. (optional) Spark Plugs, you're there already. Do not fail to check the gap, 0.028 !
      14. (optional) Upgrade the Ignition Coils.

        P105 Electric Fan removal
      15. Disconnect the fan electrical power.
      16. Remove the two 10mm mounting bolts from either side of fan at top.
      17. The fan lifts up and out, supported by heavy clip on either side. After lifting up 1 inch, you can remove fan assembly.
        WARNING: Be very careful not to hit the radiator as you're lifting fan out. (This may be where I damaged my radiator, $$$ to replace)
      18. Gunk and hose down the fan, place it to the side to dry.
      19. Put a rubber mat where fan was mounted, you can even use the 2 fan bolts after poking holes in mat.

        P106 Fuel Rail removal (side: Fuel Pressure Sensor)

      20. Place shop rag over fuel pressure release valve at end of fuel rail.
      21. Press center of valve to release fuel into shop rag. It's only an ounce or two of fuel, the shop rag can more than handle it.
      22. Remove the two bolts holding the fuel rail, iirc, 12mm or 10mm socket.
      23. At this point, the fuel rail is held by the fuel return pipe and the fuel injectors.
        WARNING: more fuel is about to spill out of the rail through hole where return pipe plugs in. It's easiest to just remove the Fuel Pressure Sensor on the end first and capture all the fuel in the shop rag.
      24. Press the release on the fuel return pipe and pull (wiggle) the fuel injectors out. The injectors are held into place by o-rings, so you're only pulling against a slight pressure.
      25. Place screws in baggie and tape to fuel rail. Put fuel rail on shelf.
      26. (optional) you can easily disassemble the fuel rail, replace the o-rings (2 per injector), and/or replace the Fuel Pressure Sensor. Or even upgrade injectors and/or fuel rail at this point.

        P107 Draining Radiator
      27. Radiator drain plug is on driver's side under radiator corner facing downwards.
      28. Use 13mm deep socket to open plug and drain fluid into bucket.

        P108 Intercooler to Throttle Body air pipe removal (picture with arrows)
      29. Disconnect electrical plug from pipe. I believe this is an inlet air temperature sensor but not sure.
      30. Clamps on either end are worm type. Loosen intercooler side first then throttle body side, but it doesn't matter.
      31. Remove air pipe and plug intercooler side with shop rag.
      32. Clean pipe and store to side. Or replace with aftermarket one (Ipd just released theirs).

        P109 Throttle Body(TB) removal
      33. TB is underneath the Intake Manifold, held by 4 long bolts.
        This is the underside of the manifold, so you can see what you are unbolting, before and after TB is installed.

      34. Use a medium extension and 10mm (I think) socket.
      35. After the TB comes loose, disconnect the electrical plug. Wire bundle only has a few inches of play.
      36. Recover the gasket between TB and intake manifold.
      37. Clean Throttle Body using TB cleaner and brushes. Youtube for instructions, plenty out there.
        BEFORE / AFTER


        P110 Intake Manifold removal
      38. Tape and mark the end of each connection to the intake manifold.
      39. Remove each. Single-use clamps just insert a flat-blade screwdriver and twist to loosen it, then pry loose end till it disengages. If you're going to replace vacuum hoses, slice them off with Exacto blade, keeping the marked label on the hose.
      40. Remove oil dipstick mounting bolt. You can remove dipstick now (see P111) or in a few minutes.
      41. Loosen the Banjo bolt underneath front left corner of the intake manifold.
      42. The Intake Manifold is held on by 6 bolts. The 3 on top must be removed. The 3 on bottom only need to be loosened! The manifold slides up/down on those 3 lower bolts. (insert picture)

        P111 Oil Dipstick
      43. Dipstick is held in place by an O-ring, it just pops out by pulling and wiggling.
      44. New O-ring is included in the PCV Breather System Kit from IPD.

        (optional if reusing intake manifold gasket)
        P121 Accessories (insert belt diagram, routing suggestion, tensioning procedure)
      45. Locate T55 socket on tensioner pulley facing passenger side of accessories mount bracket.
      46. Attach T55 to long breaker bar and pull towards front of car to release accessories belt. Slip it off.

        P122 Power Steering Pump
      47. Remove bolts and move power steering pump to the side.
      48. Replace bolts or put them into plastic bag and mark.

        P123 Alternator removal
      49. Remove alternator bolts. Bag and mark them.
      50. Remove alternator. If it is sufficiently fouled, clean as follows:
      51. Use Gunk gel thoroughly on alternator, hose down with water to rinse.
      52. Use isopropyl alcohol to remove ALL the water, then air dry to evaporate the alcohol.

        P124 A/C Compressor
      53. Remove bolts and move A/C Compressor to the side.
      54. Replace bolts or put them into plastic bag and mark.

        P125 Accessories Mount removal
      55. Remove the 7 bolts (3 long upper, 4 shorter lower), bag and mark these.
      56. Remove accessories mount.
      57. Remove the tensioner pulley (2 bolts, use same plastic bag) from the mount.
      58. Gunk, clean, and/or paint it and let dry.
      59. Do NOT degrease or paint the tensioner pulley. Clean the mount careful not to remove the lube grease.

        P126 Thermostat Housing removal
      60. Upper and lower Torx(30?) from thermostat housing.
      61. Save the metal gasket on the manifold to thermostat housing, you will use it again.
      62. Volvo sells thermostat and housing as a unit, about $80. You will re-use the metal gasket on manifold.
      63. Consider replacing the lower bolt (or both) with a hex bolt of same threading.

        P141 PCV Breather Box removal
      64. Using flathead screwdriver, destroy and remove the single-use clamps for the two connections on top of the PCV Breather Box.
      65. Remove the pipes and hoses from the box.
      66. Remove the two bolts holding the box to the engine block, store bolts in the mounting holes on the engine.
      67. Clean the area as needed.

        P151 Stock Air Box/Filter/MAF removal
      68. Loosen the 4 screws on stock air box cover, remove cover.
      69. Either bag the screws or place tape over each, store cover and screws.
      70. Remove air filter, inspect and clean or replace as needed.
      71. Remove the 2 screws holding air inlet to air box and slip air inlet off airbox.
      72. Remove electronic plug from topside of MAF, release clip should be on port side.
      73. Loosen worm clamp on MAF to turbo inlet pipe.
      74. Remove the 3 airbox mounting bolts and bag them.
      75. Remove airbox by wiggling MAF end out of turbo inlet pipe.

        P152 Air Inlet removal
      76. Remove the 3 bolts holding the air inlet in place.
      77. Slide the air inlet loose and bag the 3 bolts, tape it to inlet.

        P154 Upper Engine Mount removal
      78. Remove the 4 bolts holding the upper engine mount.
      79. Note the location of the 2 longer bolts vs. the 2 shorter bolts.
      80. Bag the bolts, remove the mount, clean and paint it (required )!

        P155 Radiator hose removal
      81. Loosen clamp and slip hose off pipe.
      82. Reposition hose to be out of the area.
      83. (optional) Or remove it entirely especially if replacing with silicone hoses.

        P156 Turbo Inlet Pipe removal

        P157 PCV pipe removal
      84. Use a flathead screwdriver to destroy the single-use clamps on each end of PCV air pipe.




      (side options: Turbo Control Valve, Vacuum hoses, Turbo Inlet Pipe replacement)

      Maintenance and Consumables list:
      Rubber gloves, paper towels, hand cleaner, shop rags, degreasing area + water hose
      Gunk (foam and gel), Awesome Orange, Isopropyl Alcohol, large bucket, hazardous material trash bag
      3M gasket sealer and adhesive
      Oil Change (recommended)
      Vacuum hosing: (recommended) 5mm and 6mm inner diameter -- about 7 feet of each
      Spark Plugs (optional)
      Ignition Coils (optional)
      Wire Harnesses (optional)

      Tips:
      Bolts storage: when removing bolts, immediately place them into plastic bags and mark the bag with permanent marker indicating component to which they belong, or bolts can often be stored back in the holes they came out of.
      Learn the vacuum system before you begin cutting and replacing. There are two check valves that you must remember the arrow direction (towards turbo). (Tiny) vacuum diagram is on hood lower right corner.
      Wire and plugs management: clip the zip ties and move wire bundles safely out of the way. measure run lengths and replace any damaged wire harness. plugs are dummy-proof, you cannot install plugs in wrong place or orientation.

      Tools list:
      Torque Wrench
      Breaker Bar (for accessories tensioner)
      Torx metric kit (8mm to 60mm NAPA, $36)
      Ratchet & socket kit, with short, medium, and long extensions
      Wrenches (including a 7mm for hard-to-get worm clamps if stubby flathead can't get to it)
      Needlenose Pliers (for reusable vacuum hose clamps)
      Screwdriver kit, especially flatheads and stubby
      Exacto Blade
      Wire Ties





      WASHING THE ENGINE !! YES WASHING ...

      See the above picture and the one just below.

      After covering the this side of the engine with GUNK GEL and letting sit for 20-30 minutes, I sprayed it all down with a garden hose on JET setting and used a couple different brushes to get the hard stuff loose. DO NOT WORRY if water gets in your valves. Mine were full (except the #4 open valve, the water went down into the oil pan) .. just finish cleaning then soak up the water above the closed valves with paper towels. Then after you get everything put together, and run the car for 5-10 minutes (DO NOT DRIVE ANYWHERE) ... CHANGE YOUR OIL AND FILTER ... or your oil will foam up with the water in it.

      Let's stop all the paranoia about water on the engine. They're not fragile. They won't melt when wet. That's the Wicked Witch of the West. Electronics just be careful, but you're simply washing away the water with alcohol and then letting the alcohol evaporate. You should still avoid the ECU and fuse box, but just because they're closed and you don't want standing water in there.

      Replacement and Reassembly







      Last edited by vLGrok; 06-21-2012 at 03:21 PM.
      2004 S60R 6MT, Red+Gobi, Factory Sport Kit, ARD Carbon tune, 10/15mm spacers, Drilled/Slotted rotors, Snabb turbo inlet, Evolve exhaust, OBX DP, Magmaflow Cat, IPD HD Coils, UR Bracers, so much more.

    2. #2
      Junior Member bimmerd00d's Avatar
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      In for writeup. What are symptoms of needing to replace?

      Sent while in DEFCON Brown.
      2004 S60R 6-spd - Black/Nordkap, 18" Pegs, OEM BT, GROM, doesn't need anything else - 113k
      2006 BMW 330i - The new wife-mobile
      1997 BMW 740iL - The extra car.

    3. #3
      Member Denis's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by bimmerd00d View Post
      In for writeup. What are symptoms of needing to replace?

      Sent while in DEFCON Brown.
      Upper pcv hose and/or oil cap oil leaks. Oil dipstick may pop under pressure. In extreme cases rear mainseal will leak too. Generally it is safe to do such service after 100 k.
      Last edited by Denis; 06-18-2012 at 05:12 PM.

    4. #4
      Member LOGBOMB's Avatar
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      Yea my dipstick started to pop out at about 100k when the pcv needed to be serviced
      2004 S60R, black sapphire, nordikap, M66, Autotech Stage2, K&N, 3" DP, EST catback w/ EST res delete, viva HD CBV,viva FMIC, TWM short shift, snabb intake pipe, TME springs, IPD track spec sways.

    5. #5
      Member ions's Avatar
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      I first noticed mine going bad when the hose next to the oil filler hole began to crack and leak . I bought the full kit from IPD and had my indy install it for me for like $300


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      2005 Volvo S60R Ti/Nordkap *NAV, Climate Package, Premium Package, 18" Flat Black Retarded Flying Horse Wheels, 10mm spacers (all around), Engine Stabilizer Upper Polyurethane Bushing, HD Polyurethane Transmission Mount, Polyurethane Upper Engine Mount, GROM iPOD unit, 2 10" Infinity Subs, Phuzzy Motorsports HD-TCV, 3.5" Air Intake, Green Calipers, UR Brace Bars (Upper Front and Rear), IPD DEM Shield*

    6. #6
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      Hmmm, sadly I think I may be in need of this writeup too. Only 68k but I noticed that oil is leaking from the hose next to the oil cap, underneath the engine covers. Will tighten down the clamp that is there first to see if that sets me straight but tuning in here to see how much work the full R&R is.

      Good call on the paint job. Nice touch while you're in there cleaning things up!
      Last edited by noeish; 06-16-2012 at 11:51 PM.
      04 6MT SR BlackSaph/Gobi. iPd Stage2. PhMIC. EST DP, catback. Snabb Intake. Viva CBV. OkadaPlasmaDirects. AdamsRotors. TakSpeed TiShims. SS lines. iPd TrackSpec Sways. TKi front/rear endlinks, toe bars. iPd R Gauge. EST LED kit. GROM iPod+Bluetooth. 19" Peg Reps. DDM 5000K HID Hi/Lo/Fog. E-codes. To do: Winglets. Door pins. FatMat.

    7. #7
      Member ions's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by noeish View Post
      Hmmm, sadly I think I may be in need of this writeup too. Only 68k but I noticed that oil is leaking from the hose next to the oil cap, underneath the engine covers. Will tighten down the clamp that is there first to see if that sets me straight but tuning in here to see how much work the full R&R is.

      Good call on the paint job. Nice touch while you're in there cleaning things up!
      Yea apparently that hose is known to have a high failure rate.

      this is what mine looked like
      2005 Volvo S60R Ti/Nordkap *NAV, Climate Package, Premium Package, 18" Flat Black Retarded Flying Horse Wheels, 10mm spacers (all around), Engine Stabilizer Upper Polyurethane Bushing, HD Polyurethane Transmission Mount, Polyurethane Upper Engine Mount, GROM iPOD unit, 2 10" Infinity Subs, Phuzzy Motorsports HD-TCV, 3.5" Air Intake, Green Calipers, UR Brace Bars (Upper Front and Rear), IPD DEM Shield*

    8. #8
      hahahahah i just put pics up of mine and it was horrid mine cracked in i think five places and came out in alot of pieces lol

    9. #9
      Junior Member BumpinVolvo's Avatar
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      This is an awesome write up. I hope it get's added to one of the stickies.
      2004 S60R Silver/Nordkap 158k
      1991 Mustang GT White on Gray 168k
      WANTED: Blitz DC2 60mm Blue Boost Gauge and Live Unit 2. PM me if you have one to sell.

    10. #10
      Junior Member dustbom05's Avatar
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      This will be an awesome writeup when finished for many R drivers for years to come. Good job thus far man
      2005 S60R - Magic Blue Metallic - Nordcap : 30% Tints : IPD: Boost Gauge, Silicone Lines Phuz: HD TCV K&N, IPD: Front Grille : RKelly CAI : Takspeed Emblem : Roof Spoiler

    11. #11
      Junior Member vLGrok's Avatar
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      I searched for so long for enough instructions to get started (didn't want to get "stranded") and failed to find such instructions.
      It would've then been hypocritical to not take pictures along the way and do a writeup, where the community is missing one. So here it is.

      Learned quite a few lessons along the way. Each lesson is written into the instructions.

      Almost done changing my radiator, and have a few tips about that too, with pictures. Had to back up a few times after forgetting to install something.
      2004 S60R 6MT, Red+Gobi, Factory Sport Kit, ARD Carbon tune, 10/15mm spacers, Drilled/Slotted rotors, Snabb turbo inlet, Evolve exhaust, OBX DP, Magmaflow Cat, IPD HD Coils, UR Bracers, so much more.

    12. #12
      Junior Member maxenar's Avatar
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      Bravo! Someone buy this guy !!
      2006 Volvo S60 R | GT | Passion Red | ///S2R
      { COMFORT | SPORT | ADVANCED }
      "PRACTICE SAFE SEX, MAKE LOVE IN A VOLVO."

    13. #13
      Member jstro's Avatar
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      Outstanding write up great job! How long did this take? It looks to be quite a process
      totally stock.. honest

    14. #14
      Junior Member vLGrok's Avatar
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      Each step is 5 to 15 minutes. Then again in reverse. Actually putting stuff together takes longer because you're cleaning and putting on new hoses, replacing clamps, and so forth.

      Go down the list and ask yourself how long it takes you. You've probably done 50%-80% of them several times in regular maintenance.

      I can't give you a time, because I was simultaneously doing all the suspension work in the front. AND waiting on parts. Car was "down" for 3 weeks. When I got done, found I'd punched hole in radiator, so just installed new one today.
      2004 S60R 6MT, Red+Gobi, Factory Sport Kit, ARD Carbon tune, 10/15mm spacers, Drilled/Slotted rotors, Snabb turbo inlet, Evolve exhaust, OBX DP, Magmaflow Cat, IPD HD Coils, UR Bracers, so much more.

    15. #15
      Junior Member maxenar's Avatar
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      5-15 mins a step... Explains why the stealership charges a bawmb to do this...
      2006 Volvo S60 R | GT | Passion Red | ///S2R
      { COMFORT | SPORT | ADVANCED }
      "PRACTICE SAFE SEX, MAKE LOVE IN A VOLVO."

    16. #16
      Member tspot's Avatar
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      has anyone replaced just the upper PCV hose without removing all this stuff. i was not planning on doing this today an therefor i dont have all the parts i need just got a new upper hose.
      05 S60 R MT Black Sapphire, Atacama, Anthracite Pegs, Premium, Climate 110k kms EST interior LED kit All pics at http://tspot.imgur.com/NZS27#aYSrq

    17. #17
      Junior Member vLGrok's Avatar
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      tspot, I think you'll have to take off the air pipe coming from intercooler to throttle body. Once that is out of the way, you ought to be able to replace that hose. I'm certain there's a thread on swedespeed, archived, discussing just that.
      Ahhh here it is! http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...-to-flame-trap
      2004 S60R 6MT, Red+Gobi, Factory Sport Kit, ARD Carbon tune, 10/15mm spacers, Drilled/Slotted rotors, Snabb turbo inlet, Evolve exhaust, OBX DP, Magmaflow Cat, IPD HD Coils, UR Bracers, so much more.

    18. #18
      Moderator CMOD_R's Avatar
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      Mine broke today
      2005 Volvo S60R MT Mystic Silver Metallic -Custom Tuned-KW V2 Suspension-All Powerflex Bushings
      Garret:|GTX3576R|TIAL:|QR Recirc Valve|MV-R 44mm External Wastegate|Custom:|Intake|Full 3" Exhaust w/ Borla Xr-1|FMIC|UR:|Chassis Braces|AEM:|Water/Meth Kit 441cc Nozzle|5-0:|750cc Injectors|Audi:|B6 S4 MAF|IPD:|Poly Mounts-V70R Sways|BUILD THREAD

    19. #19
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      Quote Originally Posted by vLGrok View Post
      WARNING: more fuel is about to spill out of the rail through hole where return pipe plugs in. It's easiest to just remove the Fuel Pressure Sensor on the end first and capture all the fuel in the shop rag.
    20. Press the release on the fuel return pipe and pull (wiggle) the fuel injectors out. The injectors are held into place by o-rings, so you're only pulling against a slight pressure.
    21. Are you sure that's the fuel return pipe?
      If that is the fuel return pipe, how does fuel get to the fuel rail?

    22. #20
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      FYI: this hose pictured above, whenit has been changed out before it will be a straight tube no accordian looking tube.

      changing out only the tube can be done. just need to remove all the intake plumbing and etm out to get to the hose. PITA, but if you are going to spend the 1.5 hours to do that, you might as well set aside 1/2 day to do the whole job. the reprecussions of doing a half job can be very costly. like $7-800 bucks or more to change out a blown rear main seal AND still have to do the PCV system again.
      Widdled the fleet down to one Volvo

    23. #21
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      i keep reading this DIY for PCV removal and never remebered having to remove the alternator or a/c pump.

      i did remeber pulling the fan out, didnt even remove the intake manifold off all the way, or even remove the fuel rail at all. unbolted the intake mani off and went in and pulled the pcv box off and swapped the big hose out.

      OP: you did alot of stuff but some was not necessary for just PCV replacement, i also would advise against cleaning the alternator out like that, might just really screw the alternator up.
      Widdled the fleet down to one Volvo

    24. #22
      Member tspot's Avatar
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      well ill have to wait for the kit so if i can get that hose replaced without pulling everything apart i will do that for now. that sucks crazyrace. the new hose is rubber with no accordian. i agreee this is an awesome write up but i would like to know which steps are the NESSECARY ones to do PCV replace.
      05 S60 R MT Black Sapphire, Atacama, Anthracite Pegs, Premium, Climate 110k kms EST interior LED kit All pics at http://tspot.imgur.com/NZS27#aYSrq

    25. #23
      Junior Member vLGrok's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by burg_855t View Post
      i keep reading this DIY for PCV removal and never remebered having to remove the alternator or a/c pump.

      i did remeber pulling the fan out, didnt even remove the intake manifold off all the way, or even remove the fuel rail at all. unbolted the intake mani off and went in and pulled the pcv box off and swapped the big hose out.

      OP: you did alot of stuff but some was not necessary for just PCV replacement, i also would advise against cleaning the alternator out like that, might just really screw the alternator up.
      Hi, yes, I did do optional stuff, and I have stated this repeatedly. But as long as I had all this apart, it was within reason to clean things up. Regarding cleaning electronics (alternator), what technical reason do you give for not cleaning it with water and then alcohol? I've been around electronics all my life and never ruined anything by cleaning it when power was not attached and capacitors are fully discharged. Isopropyl Alcohol is cheap and an incredible solvent. Plus it removes all the water and evaporates quickly.

      When I did the PCV kit, I didn't know the quickest way to do it. There WAS NO guide, even the Vida/Web version was weakly described, but it did say remove the power steering pump etc. I initially did NOT take that approach, trying to go instead through the top, fuel rail -> intake manifold -> pcv box. But I quickly found the bottom-left bolt on the pcv box required removal of the accessories bracket. One person said they were able to remove the bolt without removing the accessories bracket, but they said that after I had asked for weeks, and after I had completed my job. At least with my guide now, you can choose what you want to and not want to do, even if you've never done it.
      2004 S60R 6MT, Red+Gobi, Factory Sport Kit, ARD Carbon tune, 10/15mm spacers, Drilled/Slotted rotors, Snabb turbo inlet, Evolve exhaust, OBX DP, Magmaflow Cat, IPD HD Coils, UR Bracers, so much more.

    26. #24
      Member fallenfenix87's Avatar
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      Thankfully my car has no symptoms at 88k [knock on wood], and will hopefully stay that way for a good while. However, when it does need this service, I know exactly where to look to get it done.

      Volvo: Very Odd Looking Vehicular Object 2004 S60 R GT, Black Sapphire/Nordkap, 05+ center console and tails, UR braces top and bottom, lots of poly, 12mm front and 17mm rear custom spacers. 3" turboback exhaust (CNT/Elevate), silicone charge pipe, EST filter, RKelly intake (and lots more)

    27. #25
      Moderator CMOD_R's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by fallenfenix87 View Post
      Thankfully my car has no symptoms at 88k [knock on wood], and will hopefully stay that way for a good while. However, when it does need this service, I know exactly where to look to get it done.

      Don't even get it done. Get a oil catch can and leave that expensive mess lol
      2005 Volvo S60R MT Mystic Silver Metallic -Custom Tuned-KW V2 Suspension-All Powerflex Bushings
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    28. #26
      Member fallenfenix87's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by crazyace1104 View Post
      Don't even get it done. Get a oil catch can and leave that expensive mess lol
      I have one but not installed...

      Got a good write up for doing one??
      Volvo: Very Odd Looking Vehicular Object 2004 S60 R GT, Black Sapphire/Nordkap, 05+ center console and tails, UR braces top and bottom, lots of poly, 12mm front and 17mm rear custom spacers. 3" turboback exhaust (CNT/Elevate), silicone charge pipe, EST filter, RKelly intake (and lots more)

    29. #27
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      Interesting points made on the project and we probably wouldnt all have done it this way, but it is an awesome sticky/guide for anybody who wants to clean up the front of the motor and do some significant refurb work at the same time.
      I appreciate the guidance, I might even give it a go!
      -- I would be interested in the catch can instructions as well though ..
      Thanks
      N
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      2001 XC70, 2010 XC70 ... maybe we like station wagons ...

    30. #28
      Great write up! And thanks because I'll need it!

      What size (ID + OD) of silicone hose did you use? How long is needed?
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    31. #29
      Junior Member vLGrok's Avatar
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      I believe that is 8mm ID on the blue hoses pictured.
      2004 S60R 6MT, Red+Gobi, Factory Sport Kit, ARD Carbon tune, 10/15mm spacers, Drilled/Slotted rotors, Snabb turbo inlet, Evolve exhaust, OBX DP, Magmaflow Cat, IPD HD Coils, UR Bracers, so much more.

    32. #30
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      Just to play devil's advocate.... If you only need to replace the upper hose going to the crankcase, you can access the lower connection by just removing the intake tube going to the intake manifold. Then you can get your arm under the intake manifold and go to work. That's how I did mine. Of course I'm a proponent for replacing the whole system, but it was clear to me that I didn't need to.
      2006 S60R Passion Red and body kit with Nordkap with GT ---> CFWerks Carbon Fiber V-Style front spoiler, IPD Silicon Hot Side Tubing, IPD HDTCV, IPD Silicon Vacuum Lines, Snabb MAF to Turbo Silicon Intake, IPD Retro Poly Upper Mount, IPD secondary CAI, Nav, Climate, HU-805, AMSOIL lubes with Castrol Titanium 5w-30.

    33. #31
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      Is an oil smell in the cabin a symptom of a clogged PCV?

    34. #32
      Moderator DevolvR's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by S60inToronto View Post
      Is an oil smell in the cabin a symptom of a clogged PCV?
      That's one of them. But I would inspect if there is any oil under the Valve cover first.
      04 S60 R | MT | Titanium Grey | Nordkap ( mods & evolution & pictures )
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    35. #33
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      Quote Originally Posted by DevolvR View Post
      That's one of them. But I would inspect if there is any oil under the Valve cover first.
      Thanks - that's the plan this weekend. I'm thinking that with 92K miles on the clock I may be due for a PCV service soon.

    36. #34
      Member ions's Avatar
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      At 92k your probably due, my R was due for it at like 75k lol


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      2005 Volvo S60R Ti/Nordkap *NAV, Climate Package, Premium Package, 18" Flat Black Retarded Flying Horse Wheels, 10mm spacers (all around), Engine Stabilizer Upper Polyurethane Bushing, HD Polyurethane Transmission Mount, Polyurethane Upper Engine Mount, GROM iPOD unit, 2 10" Infinity Subs, Phuzzy Motorsports HD-TCV, 3.5" Air Intake, Green Calipers, UR Brace Bars (Upper Front and Rear), IPD DEM Shield*

    37. #35
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      Quote Originally Posted by JoJoDaClown View Post
      Just to play devil's advocate.... If you only need to replace the upper hose going to the crankcase, you can access the lower connection by just removing the intake tube going to the intake manifold. Then you can get your arm under the intake manifold and go to work. That's how I did mine. Of course I'm a proponent for replacing the whole system, but it was clear to me that I didn't need to.
      How easy/hard is it to get the "hidden" end of the hose off and the new one installed back there? Isn't there a clamp to get off first?

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