SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

Gingineer's V70R

24K views 73 replies 25 participants last post by  slickfast 
#1 ·
Hello!

Recently I've been doing a lot of lurking and occasional commenting on here, and now I think it's time to formally introduce myself. My name is Colin, I'm an aircraft designer/wantrepreneur, and I come from the world of rallycross and E36 M3s! Super happy to be here.

So I've been trying to quell my interest in rallycross (I'd rather invest in my ideas at this point but it's SO MUCH FUN), and I've always thought that a fast AWD manual wagon is one of the best all arounders a person can drive. I was looking at B6 S4 wagons, Subaru WRX wagons, STi hatchbacks, and a car I've always had in the back of my mind, the Volvo V70R. My requirements were manual gearbox, AWD, refined interior (I drive about 65 miles a day), some good power, and obviously AWD.

I currently own a 1999.5 VW Jetta TDI 5MT that was awful for everything except for the 10,228 mile road trip I took it on, as well as a 1999 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS Coupe which I absolutely adore. I'm certainly getting rid of the Jetta after I put the intake manifold back on, and I would LIKE to get rid of the subie. But I'm not sure that's gonna happen. Car love.

Anyway, so I've been idly searching for V70Rs for a couple months now, and stumbled upon the Craigslist Finds thread on swedespeed. Loved it, but be careful because they don't have everything. In fact they didn't have the best car I had found in the area for quite a while: a 2006 V70R 6MT in Sapphire/Nordkap with 100k on it... the one I ended up buying.



The PO had it since 39k just off lease, and it was dealer serviced until a couple days ago when I picked it up. Luckily I had a Pre-Purchase Inspection done at a different Volvo dealer though, because they found the angle gear to be not working at all. I was completely ready to walk away when the PO said that he would have the job done on his dime and keep the sale price as is! SO STOKED. One of the rear dampers has been replaced because it was leaking, and appears to work perfectly. It's amazing the difference in connectedness to the road!

So: while it's not a perfect example, it still makes me very happy to drive something so civilized/capable/fast/spacious after either driving a boring slow car (TDI) or a loud unrefined-but-hilariously-fun car (my beloved subie).

Some issues I discovered right off the bat (that weren't picked up by the PPI oddly?)

- Cruise control doesn't engage. There is no message being shown. The word "cruise" appears on the dash, but when I hit the + button nothing happens. A friend recommended the clutch position sensor. Ideas? Another piece of info that the emissions inspector discovered: it starts up without your foot on the clutch. Does that mean my clutch position sensor is definitely kaput? Most cars have a safety interlock that keeps you from starting until your foot is on the clutch.

-Low oil level light comes on every once in a while. I of course checked the oil level, and it's fine. Is the sensor known to fail?

-Some slightly buzzing speakers in the back when I crank it. I'll have to look for some replacements. I had a BSW audio kit in my M3 which are basically Rainbow speakers in the stock locations with the stock amp and I LOVED the sound.

Until I get more pictures up I just wanted to say Hello R Forum! I hope I'm here for a good while. :D
 
See less See more
1
#2 ·
welcome, nice find on the wagon! definitely sounds like a clutch position sensor issue, although i have no experience dealing with this so i wont comment. the low oil warning comes on when the oil level is about halfway between the high and low marks on the dipstick.these cars do tend to burn a bit of oil so once in a while you might have to top it up. maybe once or twice between oil changes, depending how long your intervals are. these caRs love to be on the hiway, enjoy!
 
#4 ·
Thanks man! Yeah when I measured the oil it was about halfway between those hashmarks on the dipstick, so I added about a quart to bring it up to the full line. It came on shortly thereafter... I'm doing an oil change soon on it, so I guess I'll find out if there is a real problem after draining it and filling it up completely.

Congrats and welcome aboard. VR manuals are a pretty rare breed - there are probably only a half dozen or so for sale around the country at any one time. You were smart to get a PPI - always surprised at the number of people who don't.

Thanks! Yeah I think I always assumed they were impossible to find until this one came along. PPIs are so freaking awesome for complex cars such as these. This one paid for itself about 13 times over after they discovered the faulty angle gear/sleeve!
I have saved a lot of money being able to diagnose and repair the car from the information on these threads.
 
#3 ·
Congrats and welcome aboard. VR manuals are a pretty rare breed - there are probably only a half dozen or so for sale around the country at any one time. You were smart to get a PPI - always surprised at the number of people who don't.

I have saved a lot of money being able to diagnose and repair the car from the information on these threads.
 
#5 ·
A manual VR - so jealous.... I love my SR, but what I would do for a VR.

Can't wait to see more pics - where in CT are you located?
 
#8 ·
Probably so, I'd say in the $90 range for the SUM recal. Make sure to crank the headlight adjusters to point them down, make sure they have the headlights "on" when the SUM recal is done, then adjust the lights back up afterwards.
 
#9 ·
Sorry about all the unusual borders... I was trying to be fancy with Adobe Lightroom which I don't know very well. I really just wanted the black border and my little signature on there, and I didn't want to have to mess with Photoshop. Camera was nothing fancy either, just my point and shoot.


















Also please excuse the filthiness... I had it washed YESTERDAY but of course overnight we got snow and therefore salt. argh!
 
#11 ·
Just a guess but that could be a clutch position sensor wires looks like it may have had a remote start on it or something
 
#13 ·
it was obviously cut and tapped in to for some sort of aftermarket device. i would try reconnecting them and seeing if cruse control works.

BTW my office is located in guilford
 
#15 ·
True... the PO didn't say anything about this though, which is weird because he told me about pretty much everything he's done or had done to the car, including how he integrated a Garmin nav into the center console. I guess it could have been done by the first owner...

Oh nice! I'll keep an eye out for ya. I live just off the green.
 
#21 ·
That's definitely a clutch position sensor issue. Cruise control won't work, the car will start without the clutch in, and general driving dynamics will be whacked. You'll be surprised how much smoother it drives with a working CPS. Mine went out and I remember it being very lurchy and awkward to drive.

Try just reconnecting the clipped wire.

As for the oil light, it apparently measures both oil quantity and oil quality, so it could be due for an oil change. I say apparently because it seems a little odd that there isn't a separate message for this, and confirmation has been sketchy, since adding clean oil could technically improve the quality.
 
#23 ·
Good looking wagon! I recently bought my 06 MT VR and the headlights were aimed down as well. A SUM recal and a ~$70 trip to the dealer solved it just as you suspected.
 
#24 ·
It does NOT measure oil quality
What do you think this is...BMW?
 
#25 ·
Haven't been on here in quite a while, figured I would do an update:

-Fixed clutch position switch, cruise control now works!
-A paint chip on the rear lower bumper has caused a lot of that section to flake off. Probably going to have to repaint.
-New very annoying heat shield rattle at idle
-Just ticked over 105k, time for a new timing belt!

Loving the B-2 (named after the bomber!). So much space, power, and refinement. A few of my friends have driven it (one with a B7 Audi RS4) and they all LOVE how it drives. I think I may want a bigger downpipe and maybe a louder exhaust, but we'll see. Also has anyone installed the park distance sensors? Considering the size of the car I could really use that feature. Totally willing to drill the holes in my bumper.
 
#28 ·
Thanks man! I would gladly swap your interior with my exterior color! ;)

I just picked up my 04 V70R 6MT Friday night. It has 105,000 so it's going in for the timing belt. It has been a Calif car all it's life. It came to the USA through Port Hueneme CA, sold new at Culver City Volvo to the guy I got it from. He and I both live in Ventura County. A manuel trans V70R in Calif is VERY rare. Glad I waited on finding mine. I love how it drives and handles. I to am looking into exhaust for it, but timing belt 1st.
Very nice man, these are great cars. Agree on them being extremely rare. I just got incredibly lucky when I found an 06 in the Northeast. It's far from perfect but I love the crap out of it!
 
#27 ·
I just picked up my 04 V70R 6MT Friday night. It has 105,000 so it's going in for the timing belt. It has been a Calif car all it's life. It came to the USA through Port Hueneme CA, sold new at Culver City Volvo to the guy I got it from. He and I both live in Ventura County. A manuel trans V70R in Calif is VERY rare. Glad I waited on finding mine. I love how it drives and handles. I to am looking into exhaust for it, but timing belt 1st.
 
#29 ·
A little update on the B-2...

As it turns out, these cars are just a bit quicker than the Saab Turbo X. I was proud. :)

Moved with it, recharged the A/C a bit since the pressure was getting a little low. Noticed a little ringing sound that happened only at idle... found a piece of exhaust heat shielding that lost its weld.

TIMING BELT DONE! Wasn't terrible, but that damn crank bolt takes some oomph to loosen. Replaced timing belt, water pump, idler, tensioner, serpentine belt, and serpentine belt tensioner. All OEM.

Bummer thing I discovered while I was under the car: lots of worn out bushings, and my right rear shock is leaking like an irishman. Rockauto?

Starting to really get used to 300 hp, which is a dangerous thought. I would consider doing a downpipe, catback, the fog vent intake idea and a tune, but I think that's about it for me.

Got my first speeding ticket with it! Which brings me to radar detectors, haha. Any advice on radar detectors/laser jammers? I would love to fully integrate one into the car so the sensors are where they need to be and then I'll 3D print a nice screen holder and find a nice spot in the interior for it. I've always loved the V1, but I understand it's been around for a while and probably surpassed by someone.

LED lights: I'm thinking I want to replace most of the lights with LEDs. I hate the egg yolk look in the headlights and tail lights. Honestly I think I'll leave the DRLs unless I can do this to them which requires a clear lens.

Other than that, just enjoying driving my R! I think it should really be the definition of sport luxury. What a package.
 
#30 ·
I run a K40 jammer/ detector combo and love it. Got it thru a audio shop on the westbrook Clinton line.
 
#34 ·
When it becomes more available, I really want an Escort Passport Max. It has a color display and is supposed to be their best yet. Should even outdo the V1.

Nice wagon and welcome!
Wow I hadn't heard about that detector. Thanks! I'm currently fighting my ticket because I discovered the speed zone that I was quoted breaking (40) doesn't exist (only 45 to 35, and I wasn't in the 35 zone yet). I had set my mind on a V1, but I should do some research on this Passport Max...
 
#33 ·
Couple weird things that I was like "the swedespeed guys aren't going to believe this..."

-The exhaust pops between shifts every once in a while, usually when I'm shifting around 3k or so. Does anyone else have this? I'm running a stock tune.

-Had a TOTALLY weird stall out today. Car was warm (just commuted home), stopped at Stop and Shop for 10 minutes, got back on the road, accelerated from a stop in first gear rather hard about 2 minutes into the drive, and the acceleration CUT for maybe a quarter second. Then all seemed fine, and then it cut out again. I tried restarting, and it started, then stalled again. Afraid that I effed something big up, I pulled over and checked over a couple things (timing belt, serp belt, intake, underhood fuses, fluid levels, checked for leaks under the car) and discovered nothing wrong. Frustrated, I tried getting back in and starting it. Started up and ran perfectly... drove it home without event. Has anyone ever had anything like this? Seems very odd to me.
 
#38 ·
Think it's time for an update...

Solved the oil leakage problem, and I have a piece of advice for EVERYONE WITH A VOLVO: go and get the Viton oil cap seal at IPD for 10 bucks. If you're losing oil, this is an easy and cheap way to insure it's not something as simple as oil getting out of the engine via the oil cap. Mine was and now I don't leak oil!

Other recent news
-Put new plugs in a bit ago. I could faintly smell burning oil after any hard pulls and thought maybe this would fix it. Once I was in there I noticed that it looked like oil had passed the gasket of the plug. Is this bad? After cleaning it and putting new OEM plugs in the smell went away for a month or so, and now it's back although not as badly. Haven't gotten in there again to see if there is any blow by.
-OEM engine air filter. This airbox is annoying to open up!
-New 1.5" charcoal cabin filter. Old one was definitely dirty, and what a difference!
-New fuel filter has yet to be installed.

And the tires. I was driving along the highway a week ago in the rain, and the front end seemed to be moving around quite a bit. Concerned about a blowout or low tire pressure, I took the next exit and got out to check everything. All looked good: all tires were filled up with air, and from the outside it looked like my tread depth wasn't too bad. However, after sticking my hand in and feeling the INSIDE of the tires, I found that my front right tire was BALD! Took it directly home, and cocked the wheel all the way and I could see the freaking chords!!

So, now I figure it's time for a snow set. Bought a set of used Amalthea wheels on CL and ordered my favorite snows (General Altimax Arctics) to wrap them with. Currently waiting on 15mm spacers and extended lug bolts.

I'm thinking of going gunmetal grey plastidip and getting some matching mirror caps. Anyone done/seen this before? My friend did it with his Audi RS4. Looks sick.

Until I can get them put on the car is parked, so I'm missing my R like crazy right now... :(
 
#40 ·


That's what I found on the inside of my front right tire.

But a set of VIVA 15mm spacers and extended lug bolts later, and everything fits! Thanks to VIVA for the fast service and quality parts... definitely not the cheapest though.


One thing I'm glad I read about: make sure you put anti-seize on either side of the spacers so that they don't fuse to the wheel hubs or the wheel.



While I was having the wheels straightened at my buddy's shop, I got a chance to have my first good look under the car. Got a couple comments on random people about how big the brakes were:



After taking off the stupid exhaust bracket:


I found a couple weird things. Like the fact that I'm missing a bunch of fasteners that hold the splash shield and front bumper cover on:



The source of my driveshaft squeal in the rain:

It makes me really want to just put a straight mid-section in. Does this make it drone at all? I want to eventually have on-demand stage 2, but I also really like the sleeper factor.

There was this very slight oil seepage at the right and left rear corners of the oil pan. Anyone else have this? Doesn't seem to really be leaking too much, maybe I should just re-torque the bolts in that area?



Anyway, I absolutely love how it turned out with the wheels/tires/spacers. The rears could come out a bit more, but I think the fronts are perfect. Love the look of knobby tires...


Here she is next to my dad's newly acquired baby, a 1967 Volvo 122S with the B20 and a manual conversion.
 
#41 ·
There was this very slight oil seepage at the right and left rear corners of the oil pan. Anyone else have this? Doesn't seem to really be leaking too much, maybe I should just re-torque the bolts in that area?
oil pan...you can not re-torque with chemical gasket, have to remove it and re-seal it with new chem gasket...the front leak are your crank or cam seals most likley.
 
#42 ·
You can replace that resonator with a straight pipe, you don't get any drone if anything you hear the exhaust a little better. It was the first thing I did and had no complaints on it. Now I have a full 3" straight pipe exhaust+DP so well yeah drone doesn't bother me lol I just turn up the radio. Also your not missing anything as these cars don't come with splash pans from factory.
 
#43 ·
Agree with Dougy. You can't re-torque pan bolts. Check your turbo oil return gaskets, particularly at the block. Its a common failure. Takes about 15 min to do and the two gaskets cost about 3 bucks.

Sent from my SGH-T849 using Tapatalk 2
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top