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...And the VR sways in an SR upgrade begins...

16K views 114 replies 25 participants last post by  glocksrox18 
#1 ·
So I just received part of my tax return purchase yesterday. Ordered some upgraded V70R track sways for my 05 S60R. I decided I wanted to have more oversteer than the S60R track sways provide. I'm going to try and do a full installation and write up once I get a chance to install them but once I start working I tend to get caught up in working so I don't know how many pictures ill end up taking of the install. Ill try my best though! Also going to get around to installing my Snow Performance stage 2 meth injection kit which was my other tax return purchase :)





Pretty beefy rear sway :)
 
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#3 ·
I will give a review after one day of driving it around and than after a week or so I will do another. I should be installing them Monday so just sit tight! :)
 
#8 ·
Are you going from stock sways to these or track sways(ipd, etc) to these?
 
#10 ·
I am going from stock sways to the 25mm front and 28mm read sways from IPD. I bought 4 extra tubes of the aqua lube so in going to make sure I don't get any noise.
 
#9 ·
I'm pretty excited to see your review of them. This is my next purchase. I want the oversteer and I'm sick of the ride height and bushing noise after lowering the car. The factory bushings integrated onto the bar are keeping my height a good half inch higher than it should be.
 
#14 ·
If I understand this correctly...
Stock sway bars= under steer...
SR Sway bars= Some over steer...
VR Sway bars = Alot of over steer...?
 
#16 · (Edited)
I'd be down for a group buy on those. I was gunna buy them with some of my tax return money but I bought a kevlar timing belt, tensioner, idler, S belt, 10/15 mm H&R spacers, IPD subframe bushings for the SR. And new e brake cables for the wagon. That went fast.

Iv'e realized when I talk about one of my whips now I really have to specify, cuz I can't say, the volvo, the blue car, or the R.
 
#19 · (Edited)
You guys might want to wait to see his review of the VR sways before setting up a group buy. I get the feeling that the handling might be a little "funny." Particularly when braking and turning where a lot of weight is on the front, weaker sway bars, and less weight is on the beefier rear sways. Might cause the inside rear tire to unweight, and in turn lower overall cornering speed (and potentially overall stability).

EDIT:
Just did a little searching on the weight balance, was surprised to find that the S60 is 55% front weight, where the V70 is 54% front weight; that's not too different. The sway bar difference must be because of how "tall" the weight is in the rear. Plus, it weighs 300lbs more... :)

So:
S60 R Front: 2016 lbs
S60 R Rear: 1650 lbs

V70 R Front: 2117 lbs
V70 R Rear: 1803 lbs
 
#21 ·
You guys might want to wait to see his review of the VR sways before setting up a group buy. I get the feeling that the handling might be a little "funny." Particularly when braking and turning where a lot of weight is on the front, weaker sway bars, and less weight is on the beefier rear sways. Might cause the inside rear tire to unweight, and in turn lower overall cornering speed (and potentially overall stability).
Back a few years when the California Highway Patrol purchased a small fleet of S60's for chase cars they spent an entire day out at Willow Springs getting the suspension sorted out. After trying a number of sway bar and bushing combinations they went with one of the larger track bars in the rear and ended up going back to the stock sway bar in the front. That, according to the Highway Patrol test drivers, gave the best overall control at speed through the corners.

Just saying, ...why re-invent the wheel?
 
#22 ·
just out of curiousity, does anybody know what the stock sway bar diameters are for the sr and vr?
 
#29 ·
I installed VR bars in my SR, got them from a buddy who sold his R. If you go from stock to track sways there is a major difference, car handles better and less crashy over some bumps. Ive never been in a SR with tracks, as for DD I haven't found any downside.
 
#33 ·
So after work today I got around to installing the 28mm rear sway bar on my SR. IPD states the installation time is 4 hours. With fighting with the sway bar and the strut it only took me about an hour and a half. I only removed one shock, I just unbolted it and tilted it out of the way to allow the sway bar to slip past.

This is the way I removed the old sway bar and installed the new IPD bar.

1- REMOVE EXHAUST. I have the IPD oval cat back so I just loosened the clamp behind the resonator and took it off the hangars and layed it on the ground.

2- OPTIONAL. If you have the UR lower rear braces all you have to do is remove the two rear most bolts and loosen the other 2 bolts on the 2 rear most bars and swing the out of the way

3- UNCLIP PARKING BRAKE CABLES. there are two clips on each parking brake cables that hold them against the exhaust heat shield. Pop them out of the clips and let them hang down. I kept them connected to the rear hubs. No need to remove them from the hubs like IPD's instructions state. Than there is one bolt holding each parking brake cable to the body. They are located by the two exhaust hangars right before the exhaust bends off to the drivers side. Remove those two bolts.

4- REMOVE SWAY BAR LINKS. Remove one sway bar link entirely and just unbolt the other side only at the sway bar. I chose to remove the drivers side entirely and only unbolted the passenger side at the sway bar. You can remove both but I only found need to remove one to allow enough room to slide the sway bar out and new one back in.

5- UNBOLT ONE REAR SHOCK. remove the bottom bolt on the strut opposite the side of which you removed the end link completely. So if you removed the driver side end link completely like I did, than unbolt the passenger side strut. Next from inside the car fold down the rear seat of the side you are removing the strut. Unclip the small rectangular clip behind the seat back. Fold back the trunk lining and you will see a small foam circle. Remove the foam circle and you will see the strut mount. There is only one bolt from the top holding the strut mount to the body and it has a crescent shaped washer. Remove that bolt. Go underneath the car and you will see two more bolts holding the mount to the body. Use a sharpie to mark where the mount lines up with the body so you can install it in the correct spot. Next remove the two bolts. The only thing holding the strut in place now is the sleeve where the lower bolt goes. Use a small pry bar and force the bottom of the strut out and it will be free to move around. Be careful of the 4C wire!!

6- UNBOLT SWAY BAR BUSHINGS. The two brackets holding the sway bars and bushings in place need to be removed. Pretty straight forward just remove the nut and than remove the bolt. Both brackets should come down on their own. If not just pull down a little and they will fall down. Now the sway bar is loose.

7- REMOVE SWAY BAR. Slide the sway bar towards the side where you completely removed the sway bar link. Than with a little wiggling and making sure you watch out for the 4C wires slide the end where you unbolted the strut out. Be patient and the bar will come out.

8- INSTALL NEW SWAY BAR. pretty much install the same way you removed it. Slide in the end with the sway bar link removed first. Than work in the side with the strut removed. MAKE SURE SWAY BAR IS ABOVE THE PARKING BRAKE CABLES.

9- INSTALL NEW BUSHINGS WITH WATER PROOF GREASE. I ordered extra tubes from IPD of the aqua lube just to be safe. I put ALOT of aqua lube on each bushing just to make sure they would not make noise. Than put bushings on bar. Flat side facing up. Than put the bracket on and bolt up to the body.

10- the rest is easy, just install in reverse order of removal and you have your new rear sway bar installed! :)

Hope this "how to" is helpful!
 
#34 ·
Great write up! I can't wait to hear how the sways feel because I am definitely thinking I want to do this in the future
 
#35 ·
So first impression with the VR sway bar installed. WWWOOOOOOWWWWW!!!!!!

Just having installed the rear bar made a WORLD of difference! The rear is planted to the ground. The understeer is GONE. I took the back roads on the way home from work to my girlfriends house and I was smiling the entire time. I felt like I was in a turboed go cart every time I took a turn. No more floating rear end. I do not know why I waited so long for sway bars. This was one of the most amazing upgrades I've made. The ARD tune and sway bars are tied for most noticeable mod. Once I install the front sway bar I will report back with any changes but as for my new 28mm rear sway.. I think I'm going to go out for another drive right now :)













And I just got my top hutch for my snap on box at work. So happy :)



 
#51 ·
What about the elevate sways would those be the same if not stiffer because there adjustable?
 
#52 ·
Okay, I'll save up for the VR track sways. Did you see a big improvement with the UR braces?
The UR braces made an improvement yes. But no where near the improvement just the rear VR sway bar did. So my advice is get the sways first. Even just the rear. And if its not stuff enough for you get the UR braces until you are satisfied :)

And for the elevate sways... I have no experience whatsoever with elevate sway bars. The fact that they are adjustable may or may not be better than the VR rear sway. But what I will say is I am extremely pleased with my VR sways :)
 
#55 ·
I know there are a couple "how to's" on the front sway bar replacement but if anyone would like me to do a full install write up I can. But if no one wants one than I'm not going to type the entire thing out :) haha
 
#56 ·
I would like a full write up since I plan to do sways in the coming months. I plan to do VR sways btw after seeing how well you like them
 
#57 ·
Okay when I get some free time I will do a full write up. I have a few pictures but I will definitely do a step by step and some tips on an easier install :)
 
#60 ·
okay so heres the front sway bar install as promised!

FIRST TIP.... when raising up the car either on a lift or on jack stands... DO NOT lift the car from either the sub frame or the sub frame brackets as you will need to remove them and lower the sub frame

after raising up the car, i had to remove my front lower UR brace

REMOVE EXHAUST BRACKET... take out the 4 bolts holding the bracket in place

UNBOLT STEERING RACK... there are 5 bolts holding the steering rack to the sub frame. some are bolts and some are nuts. ALSO NOTICE WHAT LINES/HOSES RUN ABOVE AND BENEATH THE SWAY BAR. new one must sit the same way the old one did. taking pictures helps alot

SUPPORT REAR OF SUBFRAME... if using a lift, use a pole jack to hold up the subframe. if using jack stands, use a hydraulic jack that can be easily lowered

REMOVE SUBFRAME BRACKET... remove all 3 bolts on each bracket and place off to the side

LOOSEN FRONT SUBFRAME BOLTS... the two front subframe bolts need to be loosened. IPD says loosen 4 full turns but i found 5-6 is easier. just be careful not to loosen too much or your entire subframe will drop once you lower the jack holding up the rear of the sub frame.

LOWER JACK SUPPORTING REAR OF SUBFRAME... slowly lower the jack. the subframe will start to come down with it. MAKE SURE STEERING RACK SEPARATES FROM SUBFRAME. my rack separated easily but yours may be stuck. if it is stuck either wiggle it loose or pry GENTLY with a small pry bar

REMOVE SWAY BAR LINKS... remove the link from the sway bar. keep the link attached to the strut though

REMOVE SWAY BAR BRACKETS... there is one bracket on each side of the sway bar attaching it to the subframe. each bracket has 2 bolts. remove both bolts on each bracket. the sway bar should be free to move around now. if not re check you did all the steps.

REMOVE SWAY BAR... this is the PITA of the install. the sway bar brackets get in the way while removing the old bar. be VERY careful that you do not damage anything while removing the bar!!! there are many components that can be damaged so just watch out! you may need to loosen the front subframe bolts one more turn for more extra clearance. eventually the bar will come out so be patient!

INSTALL NEW BAR... since the brackets arent attached to the new bar, it slides in very easily

LUBE BUSHINGS AND INSTALL NEW BRACKETS... use the provided aqua lube in the IPD kit and grease up the bushings well. if you dont, they will make noise. when bolting in the new brackets make sure they are slid as far towards the rear of the car as you can. if they arent slid all the way back they may contact the control arms.

NOW REVERSE REMOVAL PROCEDURE FOR INSTALLATION

hope this helps!
 
#112 ·
okay so heres the front sway bar install as promised!

FIRST TIP.... when raising up the car either on a lift or on jack stands... DO NOT lift the car from either the sub frame or the sub frame brackets as you will need to remove them and lower the sub frame

after raising up the car, i had to remove my front lower UR brace

REMOVE EXHAUST BRACKET... take out the 4 bolts holding the bracket in place

UNBOLT STEERING RACK... there are 5 bolts holding the steering rack to the sub frame. some are bolts and some are nuts. ALSO NOTICE WHAT LINES/HOSES RUN ABOVE AND BENEATH THE SWAY BAR. new one must sit the same way the old one did. taking pictures helps alot

SUPPORT REAR OF SUBFRAME... if using a lift, use a pole jack to hold up the subframe. if using jack stands, use a hydraulic jack that can be easily lowered

REMOVE SUBFRAME BRACKET... remove all 3 bolts on each bracket and place off to the side

LOOSEN FRONT SUBFRAME BOLTS... the two front subframe bolts need to be loosened. IPD says loosen 4 full turns but i found 5-6 is easier. just be careful not to loosen too much or your entire subframe will drop once you lower the jack holding up the rear of the sub frame.

LOWER JACK SUPPORTING REAR OF SUBFRAME... slowly lower the jack. the subframe will start to come down with it. MAKE SURE STEERING RACK SEPARATES FROM SUBFRAME. my rack separated easily but yours may be stuck. if it is stuck either wiggle it loose or pry GENTLY with a small pry bar

REMOVE SWAY BAR LINKS... remove the link from the sway bar. keep the link attached to the strut though

REMOVE SWAY BAR BRACKETS... there is one bracket on each side of the sway bar attaching it to the subframe. each bracket has 2 bolts. remove both bolts on each bracket. the sway bar should be free to move around now. if not re check you did all the steps.

REMOVE SWAY BAR... this is the PITA of the install. the sway bar brackets get in the way while removing the old bar. be VERY careful that you do not damage anything while removing the bar!!! there are many components that can be damaged so just watch out! you may need to loosen the front subframe bolts one more turn for more extra clearance. eventually the bar will come out so be patient!

INSTALL NEW BAR... since the brackets arent attached to the new bar, it slides in very easily

LUBE BUSHINGS AND INSTALL NEW BRACKETS... use the provided aqua lube in the IPD kit and grease up the bushings well. if you dont, they will make noise. when bolting in the new brackets make sure they are slid as far towards the rear of the car as you can. if they arent slid all the way back they may contact the control arms.

NOW REVERSE REMOVAL PROCEDURE FOR INSTALLATION

hope this helps!
Glocks, thanks for the write up! Question - do you need to support the engine from the top when lowering the subframe? I saw another poster that used an engine support. IPD's instructions don't show needing to.
 
#61 ·
Has anyone else had a noise after front sway bar install? After a while of driving I'm getting a rattling noise/feeling like something is loose. I put my car up in the air and I could not find anything loose, broken, hitting other parts, and my sway links don't seem to be bad. The exhaust isn't tapping either.
 
#62 ·
It is very difficult to evaluate the condition of the sway bar endlinks while they are bolted in and under tension. I have read reports from many people that swear they checked the endlinks while they were bolted in and they were fine, only to report later that they unbolted the links and found obvious play in one of the ball joints once it was off the car.
 
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