I put in the Elevate rear sway bar this weekend. Took longer than I expected, but it was a satisfying job. Don at Elevate was great to deal with, answering all my dumb questions and giving me a great price on the bar.
I took my time so I'm sure others would do it less than the 2+ hours it took me. It has been some time since the last time I was covered in undercar grease and dirt, so it actually felt therapeutic.
- 15mm socket and open wrench
- 13mm socket and open wrench
- breaker bar
- a 5mm hex bit socket was very helpful, but you could probably just use any 5mm hex bit / allen wrench
- blue loctite for all bolts
Here's what comes with the bar - bushings, grease, brackets for the bushings, and elevate stickers. The quarter coin is for scale. You will reuse the bolts and nuts on the OEM bar.
First step was to put the car up on stands. I tried to back up onto my ramps but the tires kept pushing them out and not climbing them. So I ended up using my ancient but still strong jack stands -- probably safer anyway.
Then, I removed the 15mm nuts where the bar connects to the end links (I have the vertical style). Note that the end link bolt has a hex "hole" in it so that it can be held in place while removing the nut. Here is where the 5mm hex bit socket was VERY useful for keeping the bolt in place while loosening the 15mm nut.
The next step was the trickiest. You have to remove the two 13mm bolts that hold each of the two bushing brackets onto the chassis. The driver side is a piece of cake, but the passenger side was extremely tough to access, especially the top bolt. I had to unplug some sort of wire harness connector; I'm not sure you can do it without unplugging this connector. The lower part of the pic below is the OEM bushing bracket.
In order to remove the old bar and slide in the new one, the easiest way is to remove the rearmost 15mm bolts from the cross bracing (a C70-only set of diagonal braces). This way you can drop down the braces in order to slip in/out the bar. (Note the old bar hanging down in pic below)
One reason it took me longer than it should have was that I first put the new bar in upside down, so the end link bolts and the tabs did not line up. I had hand tightened all the bushing bracket bolts before figuring this out, so I had to take them out and flip the bar around. So, make sure that you put in the new bar so that the vertical end tabs are essentially parallel to the ground (point straight back at you and not down) and fully lined up with the end link bolts.
Here is a comparison of the Elevate bar and the OEM bar. The OEM bar is pretty respectable, but the Elevate bar is a few mm thicker. Very nice product.
Use the supplied grease on the inside of the plastic/rubber bushing, and snap them onto the bar on the OUTSIDE of the lip / flange molded on the bar (they are split). (See white grease in one of bushings below)
Don't forget to loctite all the bolts, including the bolts for the cross bracing. I used the "blue" strength that can be removed with hand tools (I noticed that the bushing bracket bolts had blue loctite on them already).
All installed, but my greasy hands were not kind to the nice blue powder coated paint job on the bar. I tightened everything to at least 60+ ft-lbs using my torque wrench.
FYI, here is a close up of the tricky side for accessing the bushing brackets. Access to the top bolt is very tight. Just be patient and make sure to disconnect that wire harness.
I haven't had a chance to fully test it, but my initial impression is VERY positive. The car is much flatter under fast cornering, does not lean as much as before. I will report back after a more thorough test.