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Grove's 05 S40 T5 Progress Thread!

24K views 116 replies 17 participants last post by  JN2k108 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey community! So I decided to create my own progression thread, to share the mistakes I made, tips I learned and use this threat to begin my write-up about fixing broken AWD issue. Sadly I have work tonight so I must lay down but over the next few days I will get the process going. Some things I will show include DP bolt removal, AWD fix, locations of important fill locations(Haldex and rear Diff), axle/seal removal and finally radiator assembly. Gnight for now but stay tuned(lol).






 
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#3 · (Edited)
Right, sorry about that. I have been super busy the last few days, working nights kills you. Here they are:









I am very interested to see if I can get spacers to widen the base of her rear Peg's. And before any of you say it... I will be ordering Elevate lowering springs end of this month!
 
#4 ·
I love Pegs... Looking sharp! Black is one of the only colors that can pull off the stock black plastic trim and still look good.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Agreed! I plan on keeping it a sleeper so as not to attract unwanted attention. What do you guys recommend I use to darken the trim to bring it back to it's darker coloring? My family has always been a Volvo owning family so the Peg's were my little brothers from his old 850 he had years back, cost = ZERO!
 
#5 ·
Yeah, an other black beauty :thumbup: . . . keep up the maintenance ;)
 
#6 ·
#8 · (Edited)
Pics of last months mods. Added to this but not pictured was my AWD fix(Haldex pump/fluid/filter change), ear diff fluid change, KN Typhoon, new OEM rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, CBV, iPd TCV, front EST strut tower bar, Elevate rear sway bar 25mm and RICA stage 1 Tune. A month or so after this I did my full LED conversion.

EST 3"DP w/ LavaWrap-


ipd TCV-


New Behr Rad(new fan too)-
 
#9 ·
Those Pegs will have a center bore for P80 and P2 cars which is 65.1mm. Our P1 cars have wheels with a 63.4mm center bore, so hubcentric rings should do the trick :D

Mothers Back to Black is by far the best trim restoration product I've used. You may have to apply it multiple times before it really seeps in and darkens your trim. Since mothers, whenever I clean my car, I'll use ArmorAll Tire Shine on the trim. It works great for cleaning off the dirt and getting that semi-gloss back.

It's funny, I use ArmorAll trim for my tires so they're not shiny and greasy, but I use ArmorAll tire shine for my trim so it is shiny.
 
#11 ·
Aside from the obvious differences between the cars, they're both smaller sedans. How do you decide which one to drive?
 
#12 ·
Just messing around, it's my neighbors ride, we do all our auto work at my place. That cars is a beast, he has it tuned on stock stuff, upgraded suspension and some other jazz. I wish I kept my 850 as a DD but it had over 350k miles on it so she was on her way out.
 
#13 ·
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#16 ·
good luck with diagnosing the misfire issues and please do not only buy springs. buy shocks to go with them.
 
#18 ·
One reasons that I can think of... is that if your going to take apart the front strut assembly to do the spring, you might as well do the strut, strut mount, and strut spacer mount (AWD chassis--front struts only)... From my experience, the strut spacer mount on the front doesn't like when you change springs without changing it too--I had creaks like a biotch til I switched them out to new units. They are $22 a pair from Tasca--worthwhile investment so you don't put it all back together only to have your car sound like ****e when turning the wheel in parking lots or in reverse--long story, just trust me lol
 
#19 ·
I haven't had any issues with the stock set up and lowering springs, the strut bearing was my own fault when I was installing the springs.
The only creaky noise I get is from the back if/when a full size adult gets in or out of the back seat.
 
#20 ·
For now I need to solve my problems at hand, seems the new coils worked. Give it a few days drive it easy and see if anything happens. Have my insert arriving tomorrow and in a couple weeks my fmic.
 
#21 ·
The stock shocks suck. Mine started going bad at 55k and are all blown by 90k. I'm at 114k now and am going to put the coils on sometime in October. Lol

Also using lowering springs with the stock shocks will speed up their life.


Sent from my iPhone4S using Tapatalk while on the toilet.
 
#22 ·
Also using lowering springs with the stock shocks will speed up their life.
It will speed up their life, but they're not going to die day 1 of being lowered. Yes, it's a hassle to have to go back in there and replace the strut later... But if money is of concern, you can run on stock struts for a while.

I agree that it is time saving to do them all at once, and it's best to ultimately replace the struts with something adjustable and better built for being lowered.
 
#23 ·
Coils ftw! Or

Koni yellow with Megan springs


Sent from my iPhone4S using Tapatalk while on the toilet.
 
#24 ·
#26 · (Edited)
Last night I spend an hour adding this little gem.

Dirty..

Cleaning the bolts then added anti-seize

I cleaned up the stock bushing and added the extra grease to freshen the bushing up.

The insert sat night and level went in nice. The result is more engine vibration in the cabin but shifting in GT and regular auto just feels so much nicer. It's a must buy for any AW55 owner. Powerflex also has a "Street" version(I bought the "sport/race" whatever it was) but I am not sure the difference it would make, maybe less vibration.
 
#32 ·
Powerflex also has a "Street" version(I bought the "sport/race" whatever it was) but I am not sure the difference it would make, maybe less vibration.
The Durometer ratings of the compounds are very different street is 70-80A while race is 95A. You do not want race stiff on steering bushes, Superpro had a interesting youtube video of a stuck control arm and cracked bushing. Too stiff? LoL. On a tranny, stiffer should react quicker, no rotational forces.

Later on, I may modify this thing as needed, with a mill or knurl it somehow at the shop. It'll hold grease better that way. Not Squeak.
 
#31 ·
I'm a huge fan of the oem electric Ford Focus mount. It can be had for about $44 from Tasca, and it has dramatically improved my shifts and overall feel with no noticeable vibrations...it's very beefy. I'm really surprised more haven't used this part. I doubt it stiffens it up as much as the elevate part or the vibratechnics piece, but I have no vibrations and I don't have to check it to make sure that it is not destroying itself either--for a track only car I'd go with those pieces. The Focus part is perfect for what I wanted.
 
#33 · (Edited)
Could you please supply a link to this mount? Sounds like a good balance between performance and comfort. Is it just the mount or did you also put an insert in it? Do you think it would fit in my 2007 T5? I have about 130k mi on mine and only changed my passenger engine mount, so I imagine this mount would tighten things up a bit more. Thanks!
 
#34 · (Edited)
I don't have a link to the part, but here is the oem ford part #CM5Z-6068A @tasca $43.95. Just give them a call. Can't beat the price on that part. It is the entire mount which the center is circular like the elevate design mount, couldn't add an insert to it. Just bolt it in and go. Best $44 I spent on the car so far. :)
 
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