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Possible starter solenoid problem?

2K views 15 replies 5 participants last post by  WI_Volvo 
#1 ·
I've had my SR for just about a month now, and last week I went to start my car after work and it just made some clicking noises but did not turn over. I assumed dead battery, so tried a jump and it worked. I pulled the battery to do a charge, but the charger read 12.7 or 12.9 volts and only charged for about an hour before the charger said it was done. (Also, I do feel like the starter is a little slow in starting compared to other vehicles, but assumed this was normal for it)

Since that charge, I have had no problems until this weekend after I had the timing belt done. I was in a parking lot, same thing happened so I just waited a minute and it started. Does this sound like a solenoid/loose connection problem? Today I went in to investigate the issue, but couldnt get a good look at the starter (I think its below the fuel rail on the driver side of the engine, right?) I went to pull the airbox and had the issue of not being able to pull the MAF connector out and gave up since I didnt have anyone else to help me rip it off. So mainly I am wondering if anyone has had these symptoms before and if it needs a starter replacement or if anyone else has any ideas if it is something else I am not thinking of before getting back into it again.
 
#3 ·
My starter went out on me. It would click like I turned the key but forget to engage the clutch. I used a golf club to knock it when it would stick until it finally gave out completely. At first I removed the starter and tried cleaning the connections; even disassembled it to clean the bushings. It didn't help much, so I ended up buying a new starter from O'Reilly's and did the swap myself. Pretty easy job, just tight quarters.
 
#4 ·
Luckily, you have a manual, and starter problems are as bad as they are for autos. I feel like my starter is slow, but I've never had a problem. How many miles are on the car? When you say slicking noise, does it sound like a big solenoid and from the starter? If that's the case, power it getting to the solenoid on the starter (there may be a tiny solenoid somewhere else since I think the starter is controlled by a computer rather than a simple switch, CAN bus, ugh). Then it's either the brushes or the contactor in the solenoid. Easiest way to fix it is a new starter. It may make work with the tapping method as mentioned by mmnjtwa (which makes me think of teen-age mutant ninja turtles for some reason) since it's a lousy connection problem somewhere in the starter. The key is to make sure that the starter is clicking and trying to do it's job. You can also hook a multimeter to the battery and try cranking it. If it barely deflects when you hear the click, you know that there is no load on it and a broken connection in the starter. If the voltage nose-dives to nothing, it a battery (bet the meter would have to be connected directly to the battery, if it was connected near the starter and dips but it doesn't at the battery, it's some wiring). I think that's unlikely. You can also make sure that the big thick wires to the starter are securely connected. I've rebuilt a starter before, but these things are really just throw away parts anymore. Good luck.
 
#5 ·
No, the clicking noise is like a fast little ticking and sounds more like an electrical switch going on and off fast... I've had very low batteries in other cars where the car would not turn over and that is the sound that it made (but in this case does not seem to be the battery.) But thank you both, kind of verified what I thought I knew. I am not really able to diagnose with multimeter, as the problem is so sporadic and will probably work by the time I get out my multimeter. But sounds like it is most likely just a starter/ bad connection issue since it is not battery related and most likely not a bad relay.

Also, I did want to verify starter location- I think I barely see it on the front of the engine on driver's side, correct? And what is the easiest way you have found to access the starter? I was assuming that removing the airbox would give enough space to inspect/remove starter but had a stuck intake pipe that I didn't have the time for.
 
#6 ·
Yes, you can see the starter in the front of the engine, towards the bottom, a little towards the driver's side of center. You'll need to remove the air box and the pipe in front. It isn't a tough job at all - 30 minutes.

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#7 · (Edited)
Okay, so it just happened to me again leaving work so I busted out the multimeter for some testing. Electrical system showed a base of 12.4-12.5; When I turned the key to start it would drop to around 8 or 8.5. I tried to post the video but did not seem to work for me. I have only posted one other picture on this forum, and that worked, but not a video so far.

Anyway, luckily my girlfriend was parked next to me, and lo and behold a jump start fixed the problem again. With the car running, the multimeter showed 14.5 volts. So now I am thinking the total opposite and must be battery related- either a poor ground or some other battery drain, or just plan a bad battery that is not holding charge, correct?
 
#9 ·
Too much voltage drop! You have a high resistance cell in your battery, or a poor connection in the starter high current path.
I would expect to see a minimum of 10 VDC at starter during cranking.
If you were measuring at the battery itself, and saw the low voltage, it almost has to be the battery internal cell.
 
#10 ·
Hmmm... let me double check to see that voltage drop then, that's just what I remember her telling me when I was starting- I was more interested in if it dropped in general or not. Also, I was measuring at the positive terminal access point in the engine bay.
 
#12 ·
Ok took out airbox, inspected wires as well as I could and jiggled some wires, all seemed solid. Battery voltage still around 12.5 and will not start. A jump start will start it every time. Is it safe to assume bad battery now?

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#13 ·
Measure at the battery itself, not at the terminal and I suspect you will se the low voltage during cranking. That eliminates the wiring as an issue.

The fact that a jump starts it, if that jump is at the battery itself, would again confirm a battery issue.

If the jump does not work at the battery itself, but does at the terminal under the hood, you have a loose connection somewhere in that path.
 
#14 ·
I agree with Roger. I did want to note that jumping a car from a car that is running its engine is risking your alternator. I've seen it happen a where the jumped car blows it alternator. Just use the other battery to boost the other. When you plug two electrical systems together designed on different end of the globe, it's a gamble. Often there will be no problem, but sometimes you burn out diodes. You can charge the other battery off the other car, but just make sure that the helper car is not running when you go to start.

12.5 volts on a warm summer day is pretty low. I don't know what the ambient temperature is around there, but if it's t shirt weather, it needs to be very close to 13v.
 
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