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VR Build Thread - overdue...

7K views 40 replies 12 participants last post by  Clockel 
#1 · (Edited)
Let give a late intro into my Volvo ownership experience. So, I have been on swedespeed, volvospeed, volvo-forums and other places since 2007 when I bought my first Volvo. I have always been hovering without registering here, but finally did. I had an 850 T, that I tuned decently well for a guy in his garage. I fell in love with that car, and it eventually hit it's demise when the oil pump rod fell into the motor and shredding a piston. I did not feel like rebuilding the motor, and the body was last on the list, and decided to part it out. I have owned and built rock buggies(Jeep XJ's) for years, and do all work myself. Motor swaps, complete suspension fabrication as I weld. All in, I can do it.

Moving on. Car:
2004 V70R GT - bought with 143k
flatbed

I had been on both sides of the car biz for many years until 09, but despite that, had never seen a P2 R traded, I had always wanted one, but it was never the right time. Since 07 until two years ago, I still would search from time to time to find one. My Allroad was pissing me off, and I couldn't get the tune I wanted for a small enough outlay. So I kept searching. I finally found one at a small indy dealer here in Denver. I showed up, it wouldn't start, was a bit rough but not enough to where I would walk away. BTW, previous owner had repo'd the car, and did not take care of many maintenance fixes that would have left this car in way better shape.

Got it started and drove it, to find out that it would stall frequently. Dealer told me he had replaced fuel pump, to no avail and could not get it to run well. I did a thorough check over, and noticed it started to leak coolant. I checked oil to see it either had a PCV problem or blown head gasket. I showed the dealer, and offered $3500 OTD. Knowing it probably had a head gasket, I had it towed to my old indy, and it had a turbo coolant line causing the leak, and the PCV needed to be reworked. He also stated he thought the tank was dirty, pump was incorrect pump, or poorly installed and needed to yank tank. Car ran okay until a 1/4 tank, than would piss out.

Replacement/fixes since April '14(mostly insignificant):
PCV system replaced
Turbo line
Fuel Tank dr side gasket/o ring
Slid into a guard rail in snow storm to the tune of $6700 insurance paid
All ignition coils
Plugs
3x - Strut spring seats, pass side (bought the aftermarket, against read advice here, now have XC90's)
Strut bearing
'06 S60R transfer case following an angle gear failure, had 30k on clock
Radiator
Intercooler pressure sensor
Dr CV shaft
Yanked silencer due to drive shaft rub
Saggy bumper aluminum brace
Both headlamp lenses - Eurosporttuning models

701

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Car December

Needed or in the works repairs:
Fuel pump
Possible struts (probably keeping 4C for now, need to convince wife coil overs are needed, she likes comfort)
Camber bushings
LCA's
Sway bar links
Tie rod ends
Subframe mounts
Tranny and motor mounts
Catalytic convertor
O2(s) due to cat
Haldex flush
Interior issues like worn console etc.
E-brake issue

Most of the following have occurred or will following all the required maintenance issues this car has. 150k makes this thing in dire need of drive-ability solutions first.

Unnecessary NECESSARY:D fixes/builds:
TME springs
Stoptech rotors - Akebono pads
STI lip
Winter wheels - Stock Pegs
235/45ZR17 Nitto Nt555

Upcoming/changes already begun:
STR 606 wheels - 18x9 +35
Continental ExtremeContact DWS tires 245/40R18
Wheels have been a gross search and lengthy researched topic. I finally landed on STR 606 gold mesh wheels as I like the older school look. I am nervous as to how they will look, as I have only found 1-2 R's with gold mesh wheels. We shall see once I get the alignment following LCA's.

str606

Rolled fenders(may pull them as well soon)
FMIC - I am building my own from a top mount STI intercooler I have acquired from a friend. Learning to weld aluminum.
Need to install VIDA on my old laptop
LCA's should arrive monday from IPD as well as sway links and ball joints
Electric Fuel Pump?...
Injectors
Coil overs...

This car has been a joy to drive, and I do not plan on ever selling it. I spent 10 years trying to find one. I scored it cheap which, in the end went to getting shat fixed, made for a good step to the P2 cars. They are a PITA, but fun to get running well, and decently quick from factory spec. I do not plan to make this thing an autocrosser, however, the plan is make this MY style of an R that has a decent balance of power, comfort, and style. I always read every post daily, I do not spend much time posting but more time reading and working. I rarely snap photos during a build or tune as they have all been done before me. I prefer not to clutter forums, but add good info. So I hope to update this post as time rolls by. It may not be often, but when more prolific changes occur, I will post them. Feel free to give me heat, be annoying like a lot of forums, or provide good feedback, criticism, and advice. I will say this thing may turn into a ridiculous project, as many Jeeps followed the same track record of a capable rig turned rocker...

Sneak of the 996 Turbo and the last rig...
porsche

jeep3

jeep1
 
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17
#2 ·
What a story...

Not sure if it was intentional, but the images are rather small. Did you perhaps imbed the thumbnail rather than full-size images?
 
#4 · (Edited)
Definitely intentional. Did not want to post a mile long photo stream haha. I certainly have the links to full size images if needed.

Don't do coilovers... It defeats the purpose of the car. Fuel pump is 04 specific from my research so we're both in the shell out for blue box Volvo club lol.
Agreed, sort of. 4C is awesome, IMO, but the crashing gets old. If I want to go super low, I will do coilovers. With regard to pump, the original unit is crucial, however, I do not think mine is bad. I think the collector from the driver side of tank is clogged. The gauge sensor is also probably badly corroded giving the incorrect levels. The pump has just been on the end of my list. At 1/4 tank, after turning right, the car will run into issues stalling. OTW, runs great.
 
#6 ·
When you get VIDA working check the fuel pump duty cycle. If you need help with VIDA let me know...
Most definitely will. Much appreciated.
 
#7 ·
I like your choice of wheels, as a fellow gold-wheeler. I was also thinking about getting a similar set of 2-piece wheels next summer, but am interested in going with a different more off-the-wall color.
 
#9 ·
I like this pic: Jameson?

I prefer not to clutter forums, but add good info.
And your comment is most noteworthy. Too much spam is bantered about in threads nowadays, like a contest for who has the most posts.

Good luck with your VR!
Wagons rule.
 
#10 ·
I like this pic: Jameson?

And your comment is most noteworthy. Too much spam is bantered about in threads nowadays, like a contest for who has the most posts.

Good luck with your VR!
Wagons rule.
Ha good catch, from a different post. But nope, Deerhammer Downtime Colorado whiskey. Good stuff. And yeah, I just think peeps spend too much time trying to be noticed and most posted.
Wagons are what' up. Fact.

DevolvR - I have seen this rig many times online, about one of the only gold wheel'd VR's. Solid on Works.

Gold wheels look great IMO on the right car, but not on all. For sure.
 
#12 ·
So I received my wheels, and I will not re-post that info here since it is my wheel thread. Basically, the wheels do not clear the caliper, and I sort of expected that. But now I have figure out the correct spacer to fit these without a huge poke. I went 18x9 +35(which will turn into close to 10 after correct spacers) all the way around as opposed to staggered, probably a good thing in the end.

Next:
Find measurements, or measure up and chalk the stance front and rear.
Measure gap to hub for correct spacer width, front and rear.

Install:
IPD:
Front control arms
Sway bar end links
Ball joints
Strut bearing - pass.
STI lip

New stuff

New stuff

New stuff
 
#13 ·
Did a few things on the R tonight. LCA's, sway links, ball joints and STI lip. Still have to mate caps to lip ends, and convert the screws to nuts and bolts. Any tips on the cap adhesion would be appreciated. And...had to grind off one of the stupid torx held links. Lame design lame design. And ipd's Allen key isn't much better either.













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#14 ·
Patiently awaiting an answer for the open ends on the lip. It bothers the crap out of me seeing them open.

Did you end up trimming the bottom of the lip at all? I know on mine the bottom of the side fins angled up so I trimmed about an inch off to make the bottoms level.
 
#17 ·
Very nice S204 lip, looks familiar.
Yes sir! Good stuff. For so cheap, I would buy another 3 of them and practice plasti dipping and paint work!
 
#20 ·
Let's just say I have some fender work and some camber adjustment to do. The wheels clear the calipers now by a few mm. The adapters are 25mm. Effective offset of +10. It's a ridiculous amount. But with some fender pulling and rolling, and some secret front fender plans this weekend, it should come out better looking than this video game stance.







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#22 ·
Wheel poke. Ugh. Fenders will get pulled (again) and rolled (first time). I plan to space fenders at door if coverage is still lacking. I may weld some spacers to bolt in. Rear is also a concern for coverage, though it is a bit less dramatic. Rear is at -2d camber. Fronts are stock.

I'd prefer to get the kaplhenke plates, but those may have to wait. Aligned two days ago.

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#23 · (Edited)
Pulled and rolled fenders front and rear. I did not pull rears as far, but was able to pull front fender mounts further. This allowed less visual poke from the fronts.

Used the baseball bat method and a heat gun to roll fenders. Worked flawlessly and I was able to gain an extra bit of tire clearance. Next up are kaplhenke camber plates, home built strut bars, and a slightly lower rear suspension setup. I may swap the h&r springs backs in. For now, stock height will stay.















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#26 ·
Ha. No joke. I already hate after 50 miles. Ridiculous. I still have some solutions. Will update as they happen.


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#27 ·
#28 ·
Update on the VR, also long overdue. For the record, I am a professional cyclist and don't dedicate the time much of the year to my car. Update list:

-Cracked a front wheel, had it welded and works well, luckily on the inside
-Ripped off front lip spoiler in the ice and snow en route to Vail one day, replacement on the way
-Had a short where the wires to coil 1 grounded out and touched each other due to worn wire housing, $275 later, realized it is the fuze to ignition that burst as a result. Problem solved.
-Ordered IPD lowering springs last week
-Still have chassis settings issue turning and driving, mostly left. Will reassess this weekend assuming it is the wire leading to sensor. Will most likely replace front struts as they have 165k on the clock now.
-Ordered some poly motor mounts and transmission mounts from Dave (here), should replace the horrific lag in the motor and tranny under load and brake.
-Did some oil changes.
-The radiator replacement a year ago has been nothing but perfect.
-Replaced the heater core....that was a pain, but not near as bad as some people make it out to be.
-Custom drilled wheel adapters are working well, check torque somewhat regularly.

Plans or coming updates:
-Install lowering springs, already sits low so I will have to space front fenders. Looking forward to the work for that one.
-Sway bars fr/rr (if you have some larger ones that you want to sell....PM me please!)
-Yank fuel pump to check for bad connection on level sensor and also clean tank. Still have that issue around 1/4 tank
-Install front struts (if you have driver one in good shape...PM me please, I'll take it)
-Buy VIDA finally, on the list since day 1!

I'll be posting some more pics this weekend and updates as per usual. The fender mod will be an interesting one requiring some thought and abnormal care. Have not seen an R with spaced track fenders yet.

Cheers
 
#30 ·
Uh, misfire anyone?

Misfire city
 
#31 ·
The blue engine cover looks pretty but all it does is trap heat... I still have it on my R but every XC we have lives without the cover... Liquid electrical tape is a decent stopgap but the only way to fix it is a new harness...
 
#32 ·
Fact. The heat plus the vibration between the wire harness housing and the cover gives way to wear. I like the cover, but am considering removing it. I have taped the wires quite well, but its only a matter of time...
 
#33 ·
I hate plastic covers and rather see the engine and harnesses, so this is the under hood look I go with. Its also much better for the coils to have some cooling air as well.

 
#34 ·
Not bad thoughts stealthy. I always liked the look of the R motor, not much fluff. But, for better or worse, I'll take better... Cover may get sold...

Also, got these today along with a replacement front lip and the subframe bushings with inserts... Finally a wanderless car.

Ipd
 
#36 ·
Thanks. Work in progress as have been my entire life with cars... Denver downtown. You a member in Alpha Euros fb group? I am one of only a couple Volvo's much less R's.

Hopefully I will have the time to do subframe mounts and springs this weekend. I have some other secret plans as well.
 
#37 ·
Replaced steering rack with a unit from a low mile R. ZF unit. Nice. Got an anti skid temporarily off message and a chassis settings temporarily off message as well. Put in new struts from Monroe, and motor mounts.

Not sure what those messages are as they aren't the typical chassis service required or anti skid service required messages. Thoughts would be appreciated.
 
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