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    1. #386
      Junior Member sventastic's Avatar
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      Oh yeah, that's 100% wrong, the arrow is supposed to point to that dot! I believe that mount is mostly supporting an axial load for all the up-down movements of the engine so it probably wasn't doing a good job rotated like that
      Last edited by sventastic; 03-17-2017 at 01:01 PM.
      1996 850R 232km
      1998 S70 T5 SE 259km

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    3. #387
      Quote Originally Posted by sventastic View Post
      Oh yeah, that's 100% wrong, the arrow is supposed to point to that dot! I believe that mount is mostly supporting an axial load for all the up-down movements of the engine so it probably wasn't doing a good job rotated like that
      Maybe this is a reason it failed earlier than it should. Oh well, glad I'm replacing it now.

      So let me make sure I have this correct:

      1) I removed the torque arm altogether since I'm replacing the firewall mount as well.

      2) I cut out the center part of old bushing.

      3) Now I need to saw out the remaining hard rubber perimeter of the old bushing and it should fall apart and come out?

      4) Then I use the DIY press to get the new bushing in from drivers side?

      5) It might stick out a little so that's when the ABS/PVC coupling comes into play, only to get it in more flush but not necessary?
      2004 Volvo S60R - Stuff. IPD Elevate Snabb.
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    4. #388
      Junior Member sventastic's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by nick_rabbo View Post
      Maybe this is a reason it failed earlier than it should. Oh well, glad I'm replacing it now.

      So let me make sure I have this correct:

      1) I removed the torque arm altogether since I'm replacing the firewall mount as well.

      2) I cut out the center part of old bushing.

      3) Now I need to saw out the remaining hard rubber perimeter of the old bushing and it should fall apart and come out?

      4) Then I use the DIY press to get the new bushing in from drivers side?

      5) It might stick out a little so that's when the ABS/PVC coupling comes into play, only to get it in more flush but not necessary?
      Yeah I think you've got the steps down. Just don't go too crazy when you're about to cut through so you don't scratch things up.

      I don't think you have to start it on the driver's side, I think I chose the drivers side because it's closer to the side of the car I was working on which made it easier

      The rest looks good, hopefully the PVC works well
      1996 850R 232km
      1998 S70 T5 SE 259km

    5. #389
      Quote Originally Posted by sventastic View Post
      Yeah I think you've got the steps down. Just don't go too crazy when you're about to cut through so you don't scratch things up.

      I don't think you have to start it on the driver's side, I think I chose the drivers side because it's closer to the side of the car I was working on which made it easier

      The rest looks good, hopefully the PVC works well
      So the coupling is only if I need it flush which isn't necessary right? Just asking for pure knowledge's sake. And whatever pipe coupling I get, it needs to be the size of the outside diameter of bushing, not inside diameter. The ID seems to measure 2" while the OD measures 2.25".
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    6. #390
      And are there torque values for the bolts on:

      1) Upper torque arm bushing.
      2) Upper torque arm firewall mount.
      3) Lower passenger side motor mount.
      4) Under transmission torque mount.

      Thanks!
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    7. #391
      Junior Member sventastic's Avatar
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      Yeah you only need the coupling if you want to make it flush, which, if you have the coupling you might as well try to do right? Pretty sure you want the coupling to be 2" so it fits inside the lip that makes up the outer diameter, otherwise you're going have a hell of a time keeping the coupling lined up perfectly on that lip while tightening things up. Plus, if it's slightly larger than the OD of the bushing then you've defeated the purpose of using the coupling entirely

      Check some of the additional marks in that mvs write-up, there were some good pointers on making it flush.

      Not sure about torque values, just make sure they're all snug and not overtightened

      Robert DIY also has a YouTube video for this, I can't watch it right now so I don't know if it would help with your questions but he's usually pretty detailed
      Last edited by sventastic; 03-17-2017 at 02:23 PM.
      1996 850R 232km
      1998 S70 T5 SE 259km

    8. #392
      HOLY MOLY! THIS IS NOT AS SIMPLE AS I THOUGHT IT WOULD BE!

      Note to self: Whenever people on Swedespeed, Volvospeed, Mathews Volvo Site, YouTube, etc mention a particular job to be really annoying/time consuming/impossible without a DIY tool, listen.

      So I got the damn bushing in, finally. I had to undo the tool around 7 times because, as mentioned, the bushing would turn as I squeezed it in, ultimately throwing off the arrow mark slightly. In the end, I thought I'd outsmart it by starting the process with it slightly offset so that it ultimately lines up where I needed it. Yep, that didn't work. This is what I got.

      I'm hoping the arrow mark being slightly off is okay, I can't imagine taking this out and redoing it.

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    9. #393
      Junior Member sventastic's Avatar
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      That's looking pretty darn close, I'd say you're gonna be just fine! I was wondering if it was taking forever because you hadn't posted in a few hours lol, in the meantime I've been doing a lab report for 6 straight hours but I think I'd rather be replacing that bushing😂

      I wonder why it kept spinning on you, I don't remember having that issue (I don't think...)
      Last edited by sventastic; 03-17-2017 at 07:16 PM.
      1996 850R 232km
      1998 S70 T5 SE 259km

    10. #394
      Quote Originally Posted by sventastic View Post
      That's looking pretty darn close, I'd say you're gonna be just fine! I was wondering if it was taking forever because you hadn't posted in a few hours lol, in the meantime I've been doing a lab report for 6 straight hours but I think I'd rather being replacing that bushing😂

      I wonder why it kept spinning on you, I don't remember having that issue (I don't think...)
      Ahhhhhhhh the days of lab reports! Enjoy your school days while you can brotha lol.

      Yeah not sure either, but, I'm guessing it has to do with the WD40 I sprayed inside the metal bracket to help ease the installation.

      Now onto the firewall mount.
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    11. #395
      Ok, firewall torque mount is in. Looks like they have an updated design now:



      I was worried I got the wrong piece but double checked online and it was correct. Everything fit back together nicely.



      Now onto lower passenger side engine pad mount.
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    12. #396
      Junior Member sventastic's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by nick_rabbo View Post
      Ahhhhhhhh the days of lab reports! Enjoy your school days while you can brotha lol.

      Yeah not sure either, but, I'm guessing it has to do with the WD40 I sprayed inside the metal bracket to help ease the installation.

      Now onto the firewall mount.
      Haha oh I will, I'm takin it all in 5 classes, 2 sports, and being a driver for our Formula SAE team is about as good as it's gonna get!

      How did the lower passenger side mount go? I had trouble with that one being misaligned when lowering the engine back down, had to push the mount with one hand so it'd slide along the right spot on the engine and lower the jack with my other hand. Wasn't sketchy at all...
      1996 850R 232km
      1998 S70 T5 SE 259km

    13. #397
      Quote Originally Posted by sventastic View Post
      Haha oh I will, I'm takin it all in 5 classes, 2 sports, and being a driver for our Formula SAE team is about as good as it's gonna get!

      How did the lower passenger side mount go? I had trouble with that one being misaligned when lowering the engine back down, had to push the mount with one hand so it'd slide along the right spot on the engine and lower the jack with my other hand. Wasn't sketchy at all...
      Damn that sucks. Honestly, I was thinking the same thing, the videos from FCP and Robert DIY seem way to easy for the procedure. Then again, all those videos show a simple procedure that turns into a two hour process lol.

      It got late last night so I figured I'd hold off on that pad and the tranny torque mount until sometime this evening/night when I can knock em both out at the same time.

      I was wondering when we jack the motor up to slide that pad in, wouldn't that stress or tear the mounts up top that I just installed...
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    14. #398
      Member JaredR's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by sventastic View Post
      Haha oh I will, I'm takin it all in 5 classes, 2 sports, and being a driver for our Formula SAE team is about as good as it's gonna get!

      How did the lower passenger side mount go? I had trouble with that one being misaligned when lowering the engine back down, had to push the mount with one hand so it'd slide along the right spot on the engine and lower the jack with my other hand. Wasn't sketchy at all...
      I wish the formula SAE team at my school wasn't full of losers. That would be pretty fun to be in on!
      Hey at least I have the sailing team.

    15. #399
      Member Wayne T5's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by nick_rabbo View Post
      Damn that sucks. Honestly, I was thinking the same thing, the videos from FCP and Robert DIY seem way to easy for the procedure. Then again, all those videos show a simple procedure that turns into a two hour process lol.

      It got late last night so I figured I'd hold off on that pad and the tranny torque mount until sometime this evening/night when I can knock em both out at the same time.

      I was wondering when we jack the motor up to slide that pad in, wouldn't that stress or tear the mounts up top that I just installed...
      You are right but you should be jacking up the motor just a little bit so there shouldn't be a lot of stress placed on the upper mount.
      Past Volvos: '94 854, '99 S70 T5 SE, '99 S70 GLT, '04 S60RM, '12 S60 T5, '13 S60 T5, '15 S60 RD
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    16. #400
      Junior Member sventastic's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by JaredR View Post
      I wish the formula SAE team at my school wasn't full of losers. That would be pretty fun to be in on!
      Hey at least I have the sailing team.
      Lol that sucks, the people on the team are some of the nicest and smartest people I know so it's been a lot of fun and joining the team is probably one of the best decisions I've made at this school! Sailing is awesome too! A couple people in FSAE are also in our sailing club
      1996 850R 232km
      1998 S70 T5 SE 259km

    17. #401
      Junior Member sventastic's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by nick_rabbo View Post
      Damn that sucks. Honestly, I was thinking the same thing, the videos from FCP and Robert DIY seem way to easy for the procedure. Then again, all those videos show a simple procedure that turns into a two hour process lol.

      It got late last night so I figured I'd hold off on that pad and the tranny torque mount until sometime this evening/night when I can knock em both out at the same time.

      I was wondering when we jack the motor up to slide that pad in, wouldn't that stress or tear the mounts up top that I just installed...
      Okay yeah that was probably the right decision, it could end up taking awhile.

      Like Wayne said, just don't jack it up too high and it's fine. You'll be able to feel when the resistance increases and the mounts are really fighting back at you, that's when you know to ease off. When you take off the bolts for the passenger side mount, practice by jacking the engine up and see if you can lower it back down properly so it lines up with the mount's bolt holes again. The old mount might line up fine with no issues, but when I installed the new one (Rein brand), I thought that I had ordered the wrong part because I couldn't​ get the bolt holes to line up. Turned out it was just really tricky to get the engine to slide back down into place. By slide back down, you'll see what I mean with this sort of groove on the side of the engine that lines up with the mount
      1996 850R 232km
      1998 S70 T5 SE 259km

    18. #402
      Passenger side engine pad went in pretty easy, Thank God. I think the key is to making sure your car is sitting leveled on the jack stands and not tilting too much to one side. That way everything lines up when you bring the motor down. Here's old and new, old one didn't look too bad to be honest.





      Now what's concerning me is the OEM Hutchinson transmission torque mount. Is it supposed to have this much flex???????

      https://youtu.be/KdLk5WLwnNM
      2004 Volvo S60R - Stuff. IPD Elevate Snabb.
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    19. #403
      Well whaddiya know... Upon shining a flashlight through the mount, you can easily see this mount is torn.


      Sigh...
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    20. #404
      Junior Member sventastic's Avatar
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      The new mount is torn??? Wtf
      1996 850R 232km
      1998 S70 T5 SE 259km

    21. #405
      Quote Originally Posted by sventastic View Post
      The new mount is torn??? Wtf
      I know an old Mexican man named Pepe. Likes doing stuff the old fashioned way. The good way.

      Whenever we worked on stuff and something like this would happen mid job, he would shake his head, look at me from above his eyeglasses, and say, "There's always gonna be something... Always."

      He's right. This is annoying. Now a few more days until a new mount comes. But to be honest, the old mount is looking solid as it is. I don't see any tears or anything. I feel like putting this one back in but then all that movement when I shift gears makes no sense???





      Now I'm concerned. If my original mount still looks solid and I'm getting this much movement as shown in my video from last week, Maybe I should get the polyurethane IPD unit? I know it was mentioned polyurethane vibrates too much but will that hold true for the transmission torque mount?
      Last edited by nick_rabbo; 03-20-2017 at 08:31 PM.
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    22. #406
      Junior Member sventastic's Avatar
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      Pepe is 100% right... It's just how it seems to go, no matter how much you think it will go smoothly. Every time I've done work on my S70 or 850 beyond super simple stuff like air filters and whatnot, there's been a stupid problem (like intake manifold and water pump gaskets sticking to the block when I did my PCV and timing belt)

      Have you driven the car with the new torque bushing and firewall mount? Should probably do that before making a decision on the trans torque mount

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      1996 850R 232km
      1998 S70 T5 SE 259km

    23. #407
      Quote Originally Posted by sventastic View Post
      Pepe is 100% right... It's just how it seems to go, no matter how much you think it will go smoothly. Every time I've done work on my S70 or 850 beyond super simple stuff like air filters and whatnot, there's been a stupid problem (like intake manifold and water pump gaskets sticking to the block when I did my PCV and timing belt)

      Have you driven the car with the new torque bushing and firewall mount? Should probably do that before making a decision on the trans torque mount

      Sent from my ASUS_Z012DC using Tapatalk
      I drove it very, very briefly.

      But I did ask someone to sit inside and shift through the gears to see how much it moves. It still moved a bit. Not sure how much it should be moving. Do you know of any video that shows normal engine rocking with good mounts?
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    24. #408
      Global Moderator R-Pow3R3d's Avatar
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      I think the poly becomes an issue when all of the connections between the engine/transmission and the body are poly. This means there's no place else for the vibrations to go but into the cabin. My opinion is that changing out the torque rod alone for poly will not adversely affect your experience, but that's just my opinion.
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    25. #409
      Junior Member sventastic's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by nick_rabbo View Post
      I drove it very, very briefly.

      But I did ask someone to sit inside and shift through the gears to see how much it moves. It still moved a bit. Not sure how much it should be moving. Do you know of any video that shows normal engine rocking with good mounts?
      Why not drive it more and see how it feels? You have 3 new mounts, the engine isn't going to fall out haha

      I just drove a friend's S70 yesterday that has only 98,000km on it (so the mounts are likely all intact), and I shifted through the gears back and forth a few times and you can still feel the engine rock. In the end, it's going to move a bit, just depends how much you want to reduce it to. I wish I'd taken a video of my S70 after replacing all of the mounts (except firewall) so you could have a basis of comparison, but I won't be seeing that car til about a month from now
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    26. #410
      Member Wayne T5's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by nick_rabbo View Post
      Passenger side engine pad went in pretty easy, Thank God. I think the key is to making sure your car is sitting leveled on the jack stands and not tilting too much to one side. That way everything lines up when you bring the motor down. Here's old and new, old one didn't look too bad to be honest.





      Now what's concerning me is the OEM Hutchinson transmission torque mount. Is it supposed to have this much flex???????

      https://youtu.be/KdLk5WLwnNM
      The older one looks much shorter than the new one - that's what happens as they wear.
      Past Volvos: '94 854, '99 S70 T5 SE, '99 S70 GLT, '04 S60RM, '12 S60 T5, '13 S60 T5, '15 S60 RD
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    27. #411
      Quote Originally Posted by R-Pow3R3d View Post
      I think the poly becomes an issue when all of the connections between the engine/transmission and the body are poly. This means there's no place else for the vibrations to go but into the cabin. My opinion is that changing out the torque rod alone for poly will not adversely affect your experience, but that's just my opinion.
      Yeah that's what I was thinking. Maybe one with poly wouldn't hurt if the others are OEM rubber. And reading the reviews on the IPD website show that the vibrations are present but usually only at idle and even that could be lessened a bit by doing a little trick when installing it.
      Quote Originally Posted by sventastic View Post
      Why not drive it more and see how it feels? You have 3 new mounts, the engine isn't going to fall out haha

      I just drove a friend's S70 yesterday that has only 98,000km on it (so the mounts are likely all intact), and I shifted through the gears back and forth a few times and you can still feel the engine rock. In the end, it's going to move a bit, just depends how much you want to reduce it to. I wish I'd taken a video of my S70 after replacing all of the mounts (except firewall) so you could have a basis of comparison, but I won't be seeing that car til about a month from now
      Well it's not so much about how it feels to me, I don't mind it rocking a bit. But I really want to eliminate it because I think it's giving my car a false detection of knock when I'm on WOT. It probably sees the shake and thinks it's knocking.
      Quote Originally Posted by Wayne T5 View Post
      The older one looks much shorter than the new one - that's what happens as they wear.
      Are you referring to the engine pad or the transmission torque mount?
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    28. #412
      Junior Member sventastic's Avatar
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      Right right, I forgot that's why you were doing all this!! Either way, wouldn't it be worth doing a hard test drive and seeing how it behaves under WOT now?
      1996 850R 232km
      1998 S70 T5 SE 259km

    29. #413
      Quote Originally Posted by sventastic View Post
      Right right, I forgot that's why you were doing all this!! Either way, wouldn't it be worth doing a hard test drive and seeing how it behaves under WOT now?
      First drive showed less. Second drive showed usual. I'm thinking of getting the IPD unit and trying it out.

      Watch the knock have nothing to do with this lol...

      ATTENTION ALL FORUMERS: Is there any way possible, please, for you to post a quick 30 second clip of your transmission torque mount while you're shifting from P to R to D back and forth? Whether you have an original mount or an IPD unit, I'm curious how this should look. Please. Thank you.
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    30. #414
      Or maybe easier, can you look at this video at 2:17 and tell me if that looks normal /similar to yours?

      https://youtu.be/RyA905JrtOM
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    31. #415
      Member Wayne T5's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by nick_rabbo View Post

      Are you referring to the engine pad or the transmission torque mount?
      Engine pad. It gets squished over time which compromises what it's supposed to be doing.
      Past Volvos: '94 854, '99 S70 T5 SE, '99 S70 GLT, '04 S60RM, '12 S60 T5, '13 S60 T5, '15 S60 RD
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    32. #416
      Global Moderator R-Pow3R3d's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by nick_rabbo View Post
      Yeah that's what I was thinking. Maybe one with poly wouldn't hurt if the others are OEM rubber. And reading the reviews on the IPD website show that the vibrations are present but usually only at idle and even that could be lessened a bit by doing a little trick when installing it.
      I'm primarily poly and aluminum mounts in both R's. The auto is much worse. It's noticeable in the manual, but less so. If you didn't do them all and left places for the vibration to dissipate, you'll be golden.
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    33. #417
      Quote Originally Posted by R-Pow3R3d View Post
      I'm primarily poly and aluminum mounts in both R's. The auto is much worse. It's noticeable in the manual, but less so. If you didn't do them all and left places for the vibration to dissipate, you'll be golden.
      I ended up ordering a replacement OEM torque mount that'll get here Thursday afternoon. I'll try that and see what happens. I guess I have no other choice.

      I did think about the IPD one really bad but after talking to the rep, he actually talked me out of it haha! I thought about trying it but if nothing changed, there goes $200 down the hole that I wouldn't be able to get a refund on.

      In other news. Met a dude at a coffee shop and he had a built Forester. That thing pulls pretty nicely. Definitely took my lunch money with the car in its current fragile state.

      Last edited by R-Pow3R3d; 03-22-2017 at 01:47 AM.
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    34. #418
      Junior Member sventastic's Avatar
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      Sounds like a good plan, I hope it tightens things up for the car!

      That Forester is a beast, the XT models are such sleepers with (basically) the WRX engine
      Last edited by sventastic; 03-22-2017 at 12:55 AM.
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    35. #419
      Global Moderator R-Pow3R3d's Avatar
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      Wow, that thing is no joke! The sounds!!!
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    36. #420
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      Any idea on what exactly he had done?

      I beat both of my friends' intake, exhaust, & tuned WRXs. Granted, they are both lifted with slightly larger than stock all terrains.

      I have always liked those Forester XTs though!

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