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    1. #71
      Member JaredR's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by nick_rabbo View Post
      Is there a trick to dislodging the factory downpipe from the turbo? This thing is stuck.
      Get a lead hammer....perfect for this kind of stuff.

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    3. #72
      Quote Originally Posted by JaredR View Post
      Get a lead hammer....perfect for this kind of stuff.
      Ok perfect, I'll try that. I also got the turbo replacement kit from ARD so I can replace the seals and gaskets when installing the turbo.

      One other question, does the car have to be on a lift to replace the dp and exhaust? I currently have it jacked up on 2 stands in the front. I can jack up the back on two stands as well but not sure if that's enough clearance or not.

      Anyone have experience running the obx dp and exhaust? I read there might be some modifications I need to make to make it fit . Will it give me a CEL?

      Thank you all once again, this is my first time actually getting into the nitty gritty aspect of modifying a car and understanding how it works so I certainly appreciate all the help. I just want to make sure I know the whole picture before I get under there and turn some wrenches. Hopefully one day, I'll be able to help others back.

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      2004 Volvo S60R - Stuff. IPD Elevate Snabb.
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    4. #73
      Member JaredR's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by nick_rabbo View Post
      Ok perfect, I'll try that. I also got the turbo replacement kit from ARD so I can replace the seals and gaskets when installing the turbo.

      One other question, does the car have to be on a lift to replace the dp and exhaust? I currently have it jacked up on 2 stands in the front. I can jack up the back on two stands as well but not sure if that's enough clearance or not.

      Anyone have experience running the obx dp and exhaust? I read there might be some modifications I need to make to make it fit . Will it give me a CEL?

      Thank you all once again, this is my first time actually getting into the nitty gritty aspect of modifying a car and understanding how it works so I certainly appreciate all the help. I just want to make sure I know the whole picture before I get under there and turn some wrenches. Hopefully one day, I'll be able to help others back.

      Sent from my E6683 using Tapatalk
      Check out my dad's V70 progression thread for pics of what we did to get his exhaust in.

      By the way, just to be clear here, when I say lead hammer, I literally mean a hammer made out of actual lead. They are perfect because they are so soft that the head of the hammer usually deforms before you damage whatever you are hitting.

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    6. #74
      Quote Originally Posted by JaredR View Post
      Check out my dad's V70 progression thread for pics of what we did to get his exhaust in.

      By the way, just to be clear here, when I say lead hammer, I literally mean a hammer made out of actual lead. They are perfect because they are so soft that the head of the hammer usually deforms before you damage whatever you are hitting.
      Interesting. I'm thinking it's gonna be a pain in the butt to do this without being on a lift but I'll manage.

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    7. #75
      Junior Member fivealive's Avatar
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      Nah I've done an 850 exhaust swap several times on the ground.

      For the multi-piece stainless aftermarket exhausts, you put the downpipe in from the top, and put the rest of the exhaust in from the bottom.

      For the stock exhaust, it is a little more work because there is only one joint in the middle. The downpipe/cat section comes out the bottom, and the rest of the exhaust can be slid out the back end of the car once it's disconnected.

      The higher you can jack up your car, the easier it is. I just put the car on four jack stands when I did mine.
      1996 855 Platinum - many mods, signature too long
      2006 V70 2.5t - mostly stock daily driver
      a dozen+ RWD Volvos, now gone

    8. #76
      Quote Originally Posted by fivealive View Post
      Nah I've done an 850 exhaust swap several times on the ground.

      For the multi-piece stainless aftermarket exhausts, you put the downpipe in from the top, and put the rest of the exhaust in from the bottom.

      For the stock exhaust, it is a little more work because there is only one joint in the middle. The downpipe/cat section comes out the bottom, and the rest of the exhaust can be slid out the back end of the car once it's disconnected.

      The higher you can jack up your car, the easier it is. I just put the car on four jack stands when I did mine.
      Okay great, thanks for the input, that gives me some piece of mind. As you stated, I was planning on doing the downpipe from up top and the rest from down below on 4 jack stands.

      Does anyone know if an OBX system will throw any CEL codes? And any modifications I need to make to enable it to fit?

      Thanks fellas.

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    9. #77
      So I came home and found the new exhaust waiting for me.



      Upon opening it, I noticed this was the Becker Performance branded OBX exhaust. First off, should I care? Is there any difference at all besides the name?





      Second, is the angled downpipe supposed to have a smaller diameter opening than the straight?

      Angled on left. Straight on the right.


      Notice the inner diameter on the straight flange goes from one side of card to the 4 printed on the card.



      While the angled flange stops only at the 5 proving it's smaller.



      I also noticed a small dent on the angled flange, is this normal?



      I'm confused. I don't know if this is how it's supposed to be or is something wrong with my unit. Can someone please chime in?

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    10. #78
      And another dent on the angled flange.



      And how that dent translates to inside the pipe towards the left of picture.

      2004 Volvo S60R - Stuff. IPD Elevate Snabb.
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    11. #79
      Anyone have any thoughts? I'm just wondering if this is normal for these exhausts or if instead I have a defective one that needs to be replaced.

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    12. #80
      The bigger flange is the angle downpipe.

    13. #81
      Quote Originally Posted by tryingbe View Post
      The bigger flange is the angle downpipe.
      Whoops. I just put it next to the turbo and realized that. But do all other things and concerns from my earlier post look normal for these exhausts? Especially those dents?

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    14. #82
      Quote Originally Posted by nick_rabbo View Post
      Whoops. I just put it next to the turbo and realized that. But do all other things and concerns from my earlier post look normal for these exhausts? Especially those dents?
      You get what you paid for. Yes, dents are normal on obx exhaust.

    15. #83
      Quote Originally Posted by tryingbe View Post
      You get what you paid for. Yes, dents are normal on obx exhaust.
      Okie Dokie, sounds good. And this Becker one is the same exact one as the OBX besides the branding on the muffler?

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    16. #84
      I need a punching bag...badly.

      I've removed the entire exhaust system including downpipe and removed the turbo as well. I replaced the new 16t turbo along with the angled flange. Reconnected all the oil and coolant lines which were a pain in the butt. As a matter of fact, I actually had to drill out the clamp that binds the turbo to the exhaust flange since the nut got stuck on the wrong thread or something. But I replaced with another and it's fine now. Next, I ATTEMPTED to install the OBX (Becker) angle flange downpipe and holy crap! Why does everything have to be so difficult??? Did anyone else have any issues mounting the turbo exhaust angle flange 3 bolts to the 3 holes on the angle flange downpipe? For the life of me, I can't get all 3 to fit into place. It feels like 2 will go in and the 3rd will go in only if I bore out the hole on the downpipe to allow some extra room for the 3rd to fit.

      CAN ANYBODY HELP ME, PLEASE CHIME IN!

      THANKS!

      Last edited by nick_rabbo; 07-05-2016 at 08:34 PM.
      2004 Volvo S60R - Stuff. IPD Elevate Snabb.
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    17. #85
      I had to enlarge the holes a bit on my OBX downpipe. No big deal. Like tryingbe said, you get what you pay for
      96 850R red/beige
      Billet 19t, m56hk, d088 Intercooler, R manifold etc.

      99 Volvo s70 n/a

    18. #86
      Quote Originally Posted by brad850 View Post
      I had to enlarge the holes a bit on my OBX downpipe. No big deal. Like tryingbe said, you get what you pay for
      So bore it out a bit using a drill bit and that should do it? That's what I was thinking but I wanted to make sure with you guys in case somebody has encountered something similar.

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    19. #87
      Quote Originally Posted by nick_rabbo View Post
      So bore it out a bit using a drill bit and that should do it? That's what I was thinking but I wanted to make sure with you guys in case somebody has encountered something similar.

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      It was so long ago, but I believe I used a Dremel. You wan't to be careful not to enlarge them too much. Also I don't want you trashing your downpipe due to my advice!
      96 850R red/beige
      Billet 19t, m56hk, d088 Intercooler, R manifold etc.

      99 Volvo s70 n/a

    20. #88
      Quote Originally Posted by brad850 View Post
      It was so long ago, but I believe I used a Dremel. You wan't to be careful not to enlarge them too much. Also I don't want you trashing your downpipe due to my advice!
      LoL... I don't see any other solution!

      Anyone else have any thoughts?

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    21. #89
      You will be fine enlarging the hole(s). You should only have to enlarge one or two of them, just be careful not to remove too much. There is a sealing lip on the exhaust housing so it will still line up correctly.
      Last edited by brad850; 07-05-2016 at 11:17 PM.
      96 850R red/beige
      Billet 19t, m56hk, d088 Intercooler, R manifold etc.

      99 Volvo s70 n/a

    22. #90
      Quote Originally Posted by brad850 View Post
      You will be fine enlarging the hole(s). You should only have to enlarge one or two of them, just be careful not to remove too much. There is a sealing lip on the exhaust so it will still line up correctly.
      Right on, I'll give it a try and see what happens. I'm sure it'll be fine.

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    23. #91
      Quote Originally Posted by brad850 View Post
      You will be fine enlarging the hole(s). You should only have to enlarge one or two of them, just be careful not to remove too much. There is a sealing lip on the exhaust housing so it will still line up correctly.
      I extended the holes a little. I'm able to get the studs in now, but still not pretty. It looks like I need to extend one side a little more but what I'm afraid of, is if I do this, will the inner lip thing not fit right?



      The damn dremel bit broke off anyway so I need to grab another one if I'm gonna try to enlarge the hole a little more.

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    24. #92
      I'm returning this whole kit. I just don't feel confident with it and I don't want to modify it, that won't give me piece of mind. I'm returning it to the eBay seller who sold it to me (racingdepot) and just ordered another kit from sparktek motorsports 🏁. Hopefully this will be a better kit with better fitment and a true bolt on with no modifications.

      I'm guessing I can begin putting the exhaust manifold and head back on without the downpipe so I guess I'll do that in the meantime. I usually don't have much time so if I can keep chipping away at things little by little, that'll help.

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    25. #93
      Member JaredR's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by nick_rabbo View Post
      I'm returning this whole kit. I just don't feel confident with it and I don't want to modify it, that won't give me piece of mind. I'm returning it to the eBay seller who sold it to me (racingdepot) and just ordered another kit from sparktek motorsports 🏁. Hopefully this will be a better kit with better fitment and a true bolt on with no modifications.

      I'm guessing I can begin putting the exhaust manifold and head back on without the downpipe so I guess I'll do that in the meantime. I usually don't have much time so if I can keep chipping away at things little by little, that'll help.

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      Access back there is obviously not as good with the head on, but it's certainly doable.

    26. #94
      Sup forum. I know it's been a while, but I got hella busy with work, so now just having time to start putting everything back together. I figured I'd take my time with this and make progress little by little as I pretty much never have a full day to work on it.

      So I have the head machined, water pump/timing/serpentine belt kit, head gasket kit, new pcv reservoir kit, changed 15g turbo for a 16t, changed old cracked exhaust mani for the R mani, and I'm ready to begin.

      So yesterday, I thought I'd start by doing a quick and easy replacement of water pump, idler pulley, and tensioner along with removing old timing belt. But I forgot this is a Volvo and nothing is quick and easy...

      After removing the bottom timing belt shield, it was a pain trying to get the belt off because there's very little room. I ended up just cutting the belt off. It didn't look too bad as you can see, except for the cracking visible when bending the belt.

      Old belt on left.


      Small cracking on old belt.


      Then took off old bottom part of tensioner.

      Old one on left.



      Then took off old top part of idler tensioner. Or I should say attempted to take off. As you can see, it got dark outside because I got stuck here in this "learning" experience. The space to use a T45 is very limited so it's very hard to get tools in there.



      So after about 6 or 7 trips to AutoZone and O'Reilly, the solution was to get a serpentine belt tool on loan from AutoZone for 90 days which makes the job way easier.

      Serpentine belt tool is very thin so allows more room. By the way, don't get these black bits from AutoZone, they suck and it bent on the first turn. Just like my AutoZone bit adapter snapped in half previously in this thread. Had to get a better T45 bit from O'Reilly. Seriously, I'm never buying bits again from AutoZone, no offense to any employees here.


      Can you guess which bit bent?


      Here is the old one on left. Still looked pretty good to be honest, didn't spin that freely too but new one going in anyway.


      Then took off old idler pulley which was the simplest in this process via two 12mm bolts. Same scenario, old one still looked pretty decent.


      Finally, the water pump removed via 7 bolts. Once all were removed, it took some power to get it separated from the engine block because of how long it's been there I assume.

      Old water pump on left. Once again, looked great and didn't spin freely too much. Also, no back and forth wiggle in bearing.


      Now to put the new pieces back in, I just went in reverse order and naturally, I messed something up. The new HEPU water pump came with 7 new bolts with lock tight already on. The direction is to torque these bolts to 15 ft. lbs. DONT DO THIS! The bolt stripped right away and I was left with a broken bolt in my engine block despite following directions. I think the correct value is lower, somewhere around 8 ft. lbs. or something like that.

      Broken bolt.


      I figured it was because the bolts that come with the HEPU unit are inferior. Take a close look at the difference in the bolts and you will see a difference in the flat underside of head.

      Old sturdier bolt on left. New HEPU bolt on right.


      So that's where I'm at folks. Now how the heck am I gonna get this stripped bolt out in such a tight spot...

      Sigh.

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    27. #95
      Member Wayne T5's Avatar
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      Sorry for your troubles. That bolt doesn't look stripped but it looks like it snapped in the picture. Hard to believe that only 15 ft lbs would have caused that. Looks like an ez out will remove that pretty easily.
      Past Volvos: '94 854, '99 S70 T5 SE, '99 S70 GLT, '04 S60RM, '12 S60 T5, '13 S60 T5, '15 S60 RD
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    28. #96
      Quote Originally Posted by Wayne T5 View Post
      Sorry for your troubles. That bolt doesn't look stripped but it looks like it snapped in the picture. Hard to believe that only 15 ft lbs would have caused that. Looks like an ez out will remove that pretty easily.
      Yes, sorry, I meant snapped in half. And you're right, I wouldn't imagine 15 ft lbs to do that either and I remember thinking that this seems like it feels more than 15. So I am thinking maybe my torque wrench malfunctioned or wasn't calibrated correctly.

      Is EZ out basically an extractor tool? Do you have a link of one you think might be able to help me, especially in that tight spot. I appreciate it.

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    29. #97
      Member JaredR's Avatar
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      You might be better off to try to get a vice grip on it and see if you can turn it that way before you go the EZ out route.

    30. #98
      Member Wayne T5's Avatar
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      Agree with JaredR - try a vise grip first. I got a set of ez outs from Sears a few years ago and they seem to work pretty well.
      Past Volvos: '94 854, '99 S70 T5 SE, '99 S70 GLT, '04 S60RM, '12 S60 T5, '13 S60 T5, '15 S60 RD
      Present Garage: '16 MX5 Club, '95 854 T-5R, '05 V70RGT, '15.5 XC60 T6, '16 V60 P*

    31. #99
      Quote Originally Posted by JaredR View Post
      You might be better off to try to get a vice grip on it and see if you can turn it that way before you go the EZ out route.
      Quote Originally Posted by Wayne T5 View Post
      Agree with JaredR - try a vise grip first. I got a set of ez outs from Sears a few years ago and they seem to work pretty well.
      I tried the vice grips prior but it's in such a tight spot, I had no luck. So I proceeded to try the following. I needed to use my right angle drill adapter to get in the tight area. I wanted to use a left handed drill bit first because that could probably take it out on its own but the right angle drill adapters seem to only come in hex bit form. So instead, I am defaulted to use a drill, right angle drill adapter, and a hex drill bit.

      First, I used a cutter to shorten the drill bit some more for clearance.


      After a while, the bit broke.


      But I managed to make a good sized, although slightly off centered hole inside.


      That allowed me to get the extractor in and tap it in as much as possible.


      And YESSSSSS! IT WORKED!!!! Anyone who has been through this knows how freaking happy I am that this bolt came out.


      When putting water pump back in, I was more careful not to use that torque wrench that got me in this mess in the first place. Now lastly, this little plastic piece snapped off being that it's so brittle from old age. I don't see what purpose it has, do you guys know? I just want to know if it's okay to proceed without it.





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    32. #100
      Member Wayne T5's Avatar
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      Nice work in getting that bolt extracted! It's an amazing feeling when it actually starts to turn!

      Sorry, I don't know what that plastic piece is - hopefully it's not important.
      Past Volvos: '94 854, '99 S70 T5 SE, '99 S70 GLT, '04 S60RM, '12 S60 T5, '13 S60 T5, '15 S60 RD
      Present Garage: '16 MX5 Club, '95 854 T-5R, '05 V70RGT, '15.5 XC60 T6, '16 V60 P*

    33. #101
      It just holds the timing cover out. I wouldn't worry too much unless your timing cover is severely warped.
      New website >>> http://www.yother.com

    34. #102
      Appreciate the replies and input!

      Got some more progress done and almost getting everything completed.

      Got some materials:


      Prepped the block by cleaning the surface with a razor blade:


      Gasket in place:


      Shiny head ready to go in with spark plug rings. By the way, some have commented previously in this thread regarding my footwear, or lack of, so how about these for fun lol:


      Torqued down:


      Valves were soaking in oil, time for their install. They seemed a little stubborn to get in:


      Cams with new front and rear seals:


      Now time for the cam cover. It's been sitting for a while so it needed a good cleaning.


      Brake cleaner is amazing:


      Now time for the gasket maker pictured earlier:


      And sealed:


      Now, the annoying part begins...

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    35. #103
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      I almost burst out in joy when you got the broken bolt out!..

      ...But my heart stopped for a second when I saw the black RTV on the cam cover. Duuuuude. I dunno.

      I'm so sorry to break it to you but I don't think that stuff is going to work well. I can't tell you exactly what will happen but I really think you should pause and reflect on that a bit. I know what is specified for that sealing surface is Volvo's pink anaerobic sealant. It is specified when two surfaces are precision machined to high tolerances. It takes up less space in a gap than black RTV. Black RTV works well when the two surfaces aren't as precisely machined and fills in gouges and irregularities better. Effectively your top cam cover is probably sitting just a little bit higher than it should be with the black RTV creating some gaps for the cams in their journals. Might not be the end of the world, but I'm not qualified enough to give you an accurate prediction of what to expect. I'm sure others will chime in on this.

      What was your technique for holding the cams in place when you reinstalled the cam cover? I made the mistake of just setting the cams in there and slowly using clamps to pull it back together. The cam cover leaked oil on the exhaust manifold and I had to eventually seal it again. I used aftermarket anaerobic sealant the first time, but I think it was my clamping technique that failed me. The second time, a year later, I used Volvo's OEM pink sealant and a bootleg version of Volvo's cam cover tool from eBay. I'm still leak free.
      Me: 1998 V70 T5 M - 16T, R manifold, 3" exhaust, IPD air intake, Snabb FMIC, IPD all the things suspension, Koni Yellows, Porsche/R BBK, CJ's sub frame bushings, Quaife LSD, SPEC stage 2 clutch (SMF)
      Wife: 2005 Toyota Prius - We drank the Kool-Aid
      Extra: 1996 Lexus LX450 - 2.5" OME lift, 33" All Terrains, locked differentials

    36. #104
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      Yeah it's bad, man. I'm really sorry but you're gonna have to redo it for sure. First 6 minutes of this video:

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lW2JLf7-1mU
      Me: 1998 V70 T5 M - 16T, R manifold, 3" exhaust, IPD air intake, Snabb FMIC, IPD all the things suspension, Koni Yellows, Porsche/R BBK, CJ's sub frame bushings, Quaife LSD, SPEC stage 2 clutch (SMF)
      Wife: 2005 Toyota Prius - We drank the Kool-Aid
      Extra: 1996 Lexus LX450 - 2.5" OME lift, 33" All Terrains, locked differentials

    37. #105
      Quote Originally Posted by bob82pigdog View Post
      I almost burst out in joy when you got the broken bolt out!..

      ...But my heart stopped for a second when I saw the black RTV on the cam cover. Duuuuude. I dunno.

      I'm so sorry to break it to you but I don't think that stuff is going to work well. I can't tell you exactly what will happen but I really think you should pause and reflect on that a bit. I know what is specified for that sealing surface is Volvo's pink anaerobic sealant. It is specified when two surfaces are precision machined to high tolerances. It takes up less space in a gap than black RTV. Black RTV works well when the two surfaces aren't as precisely machined and fills in gouges and irregularities better. Effectively your top cam cover is probably sitting just a little bit higher than it should be with the black RTV creating some gaps for the cams in their journals. Might not be the end of the world, but I'm not qualified enough to give you an accurate prediction of what to expect. I'm sure others will chime in on this.

      What was your technique for holding the cams in place when you reinstalled the cam cover? I made the mistake of just setting the cams in there and slowly using clamps to pull it back together. The cam cover leaked oil on the exhaust manifold and I had to eventually seal it again. I used aftermarket anaerobic sealant the first time, but I think it was my clamping technique that failed me. The second time, a year later, I used Volvo's OEM pink sealant and a bootleg version of Volvo's cam cover tool from eBay. I'm still leak free.
      Quote Originally Posted by bob82pigdog View Post
      Yeah it's bad, man. I'm really sorry but you're gonna have to redo it for sure. First 6 minutes of this video:

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lW2JLf7-1mU
      I'm laughing uncontrollably at the moment.

      I think that's what happens when a tragedy strikes and the person doesn't know what to do except laugh like a lunatic lolllll...

      A) This is why I love this forum, because you guys chime in with the expertise of experience for us noobs.

      B) I knew I should've went with what I knew. Believe it or not, I wanted to use the pink anaerobic sealant, which dries with the absence of air, but someone suggested I use this stuff instead as it's "better"...

      C) Darn. So I'm guessing everything is coming off again. What now, scrape off this black sealant, clean everything up, new spark plug ring seals, and reapply correct gasket maker?
      2004 Volvo S60R - Stuff. IPD Elevate Snabb.
      1997 Volvo 850R - All original, all stock, all beautiful.

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