Turbo Control Valve Replacement
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    1. #1
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      Turbo Control Valve Replacement

      I've been struggling with a weird boost/no-boost condition with my V50 ever since purchasing a year or so ago. Figured it was the FPS - nope; figured it was plugs - nope; figured it was the turbo check valve - nope; and then finally tried the turbo control valve (TCV) - bam, fixed. Power is now very linear, good boost build, better power at full throttle, better economy on cruising (which I'm assuming is from the CPU cutting the boost efficiently). I'm at 130k miles and the turbo control valve was the original OEM pierburg unit. Based on ARD tuning's website listing, I replaced it with a pierburg unit 7.22908.03.0 (ARD lists it as an upgrade since it's OEM for porsche turbo). It doesn't have the same mounting point, which I solved with a few zip ties. The procedure went like this: jack up and remove the right wheel and inner fender. At this point you'll barely be able to see the tcv, it's clipped into a hard mount point (similar to how the coolant overflow tank is mounted). Use a screw driver to lever the tcv off the mount and to remove the electronic plug, press the pin down and pull. Then undo one of the three vacuum lines at a time and connect them to the new tcv. To make sure you have the lines routed correctly, don't disconnect them all at the same time - use the old unit as a guide. Then either clip the new OEM tcv back into the mount or (like me) zip tie the aftermarket tcv to the hard mount. You're gonna get greasy and a bit cut up due to the weird position, but it's an easy-ish fix.
      Last edited by mercdude; 07-07-2016 at 10:07 AM.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD M66

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    3. #2
      Ironic timing! I just did the TCV last weekend for my V50, pics and write up coming soon.

      But for anyone doing this, I really encourage relocating your TCV. The stock location is so close to the turbo, the heat causes premature failure and potentially faulty readings (especially on a tune vehicle being driven hard). All the aftermarket TCVs suggest relocation to one of the firewall bolts. I used about 6" of extra hose to relocate my OEM replacement. Ziptied it to the AC lines with a little foam insulation so it doesn't rattle around.

      Definitely an easy replacement, it's just some awkward positioning to access it.

    4. #3
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      What constitutes "premature" failure? Seems like 10 years is a good lifespan, but less than that would be concerning.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD M66

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    6. #4
      Quote Originally Posted by mercdude View Post
      What constitutes "premature" failure? Seems like 10 years is a good lifespan, but less than that would be concerning.
      I would say 5 years or 60k miles. I've seen them go bad in less time than that too.

      10 years is definitely reasonable.

    7. #5
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      60k seems short, but then again that's about the lifespan of a FPS. So what are your thoughts on "upgrading" (as ARD calls it) the TCV to the porsche unit? Still a pierburg, so I'm not sure it makes a difference except in price.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD M66

    8. #6
      Quote Originally Posted by mercdude View Post
      60k seems short, but then again that's about the lifespan of a FPS. So what are your thoughts on "upgrading" (as ARD calls it) the TCV to the porsche unit? Still a pierburg, so I'm not sure it makes a difference except in price.
      I say keep the stock TCV. After following all the data logs and tuning issues from Shark and Elevate, general consensus is that the stock TCV is pretty much the best unit and easier to control with software tuning. It just needs to be relocated away from the turbo on cars with excessive boost.

      Elevate and iPd both have aftermarket TCVs which are claimed to be an improved design for higher boost cars. But the best running K16 builds are all using stock TCVs... So that says something.

    9. #7
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      That makes sense when comparing pierburg (OEM) to aftermarket (IPD, etc.), but from pierburg (OEM) to pierburg (OEM Porsche)? The only difference I could see was that the mounting clip was different... and it's significantly cheaper.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD M66

    10. #8
      Oh, yeah... I'm really not sure if there is a mechanical benefit from one to the other. Like you said, price and mounting clip are different. Do you happen to have a side by side picture of the two?

      I went with the Pierburg unit (Volvo part) from FCP Euro which was ~$50. The V50 will be "Stage 3" once it's all said and done.

    11. #9
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      Go here: http://www.ardideas.com/Turbo-Contro...g-_p_2180.html You'll see that the pierburg (porsche) unit has a true attachment clip. Go here: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/7711...ntrol-solenoid You'll see that the pierburg (OEM Volvo) unit has a press-in attachment. The only difference I can tell is the attachment, and the Porsche one you can find at amazon for about $25. No other issues, whatsoever.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD M66

    12. #10
      Junior Member dannoman007's Avatar
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      I just did mine on my 05 s60, bigggggg difference, found it on flea bay for 36$ shipped

    13. #11
      Member Brown9348's Avatar
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      stage three for the V50?
      05' S40 T5 AWD >129k miles. KW V1. E-focus tq Mount. Racing Beat rsb. SPC arms. 18"Midir's, 17" Pegs.
      Elevate Cat-back. EST Downpipe. ATP FMIC. Elevate TCV.Shark, Stage '3' Tune.
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    14. #12
      Quote Originally Posted by Brown9348 View Post
      stage three for the V50?
      Everything except for a K16. But adding parts slowly so that the wifey can learn the difference/improvements that each part delivers.

    15. #13
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      You must have a cool wife. My gf could care less
      2005 V50 T5 AWD M66

    16. #14
      Junior Member dannoman007's Avatar
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      Hey,
      What is this fps, I hear mentioned? I have an 05 2.5t...do I even have it?

    17. #15
      Quote Originally Posted by dannoman007 View Post
      Hey,
      What is this fps, I hear mentioned? I have an 05 2.5t...do I even have it?
      Fuel Pressure Sensor, you have one in your S60.

    18. #16
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      i've read the instructions and there's 1 youtube but it doesn't really go into detail of the hardest part... getting the TCV off or removing the hoses and re-attaching them on the new valve. it seems if you can barely even see it, how the heck do you get tiny hoses on and off, especially where you need to manipulate hose clips?

      mniwt, any chance you have a write/video stored somewhere and just haven't had a chance to edit/upload? the only thing in the FAQ/DIY is for a D5.

      i like the idea of new hoses but i'm also kind of lazy/short on free time (2 young kids) so honestly would prefer to just get the new TCV in place in the most efficient manner possible. you mentioned hose extension in another post -- did you mean somehow attach new hose to the original hose? what kind of connector did you use to do that? or did you mean replace the entire hose length with a longer one? if so, where did you order the hoses and what size? it seems that would mean digging into the engine bay even more to get at the other end of the hoses. i'm only at 70k miles so maybe my hoses will tolerate another 30-50k miles with the replacement TCV.

      i'm willing to tackle it -- i've done e-focus mount, ecu spacer, fps thanks, oil/air filter, and cabin filter changes thanks to this forum. but my hands are big and am not the most patient person :-)
      how much do you think a shop will charge to install it?

      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      Ironic timing! I just did the TCV last weekend for my V50, pics and write up coming soon.

      But for anyone doing this, I really encourage relocating your TCV. The stock location is so close to the turbo, the heat causes premature failure and potentially faulty readings (especially on a tune vehicle being driven hard). All the aftermarket TCVs suggest relocation to one of the firewall bolts. I used about 6" of extra hose to relocate my OEM replacement. Ziptied it to the AC lines with a little foam insulation so it doesn't rattle around.

      Definitely an easy replacement, it's just some awkward positioning to access it.
      2008 C70 GT - Black/Black/Nordic Oak
      Shark Tune - GoVo ECU Spacer - Ford e-Focus Mount - Koni FSD - Elevate SwayBar - Massive Camber Arms - Centric Rotors - Akebono Pads - Nokian Z-Line 235/45/18 - Mods4cars SmartTop - Llumar/Madico Tint - E46 Bi-Xenon Retrofit w/ZKW-R Lens Morimoto XB35 - LED Int/Ext/Halos - Fryalip - Fumoto Valve

    19. #17
      Based on what you've done, you shouldn't have any problem with the TCV.

      It's too tight of a space to actually film the process of removing the hoses and clips, but there's enough space to get your hands in there.

      The TCV slides off of a metal bracket with a little force. The clips can easily be pinched and removed using small pliers. If you're keeping the TCV in the same spot, it's a fairly simple disconnect reconnect procedure.



      I suggested relocating the TCV to get it away from the excessive heat of the turbo. Two of the stock hoses will remain long enough to relocate it, no need to disconnect the hoses from their other ends. You will need to extend one hoses using a basic hose connector (pictured below). 3 or 4mm ID hosing should work. Did your new TCV not come with new hoses?


      Elevate's TCV installation guide gives a few good pictures of the process as well.

    20. #18
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      You've got to take the wheel off and then wedge you hands in between the subframe and the engine (around the suspension) and take needle nose pliers and pinch the connectors off. I suggest doing these one at a time and immediately connecting the old hose to the new tcv. It's very doable, but not fun.

      Even the CBV is not that hard to get at with the right tools and some patience.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD M66

    21. #19
      Quote Originally Posted by mercdude View Post
      You've got to take the wheel off and then wedge you hands in between the subframe and the engine (around the suspension) and take needle nose pliers and pinch the connectors off. I suggest doing these one at a time and immediately connecting the old hose to the new tcv. It's very doable, but not fun.
      What? No... Just lift the front of the car on jacks or ramps. Then it's a fairly straight reach up along side the turbo. You do have to reach around the axle, but no need to remove the wheel. I swapped out TCVs on the last V50 in 30 minutes, but that was the 3rd one that I've done.

    22. #20
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      What? No... Just lift the front of the car on jacks or ramps. Then it's a fairly straight reach up along side the turbo. You do have to reach around the axle, but no need to remove the wheel. I swapped out TCVs on the last V50 in 30 minutes, but that was the 3rd one that I've done.
      That's how I've done it. Long-handle needle-nose are very helpful. When I did my suspension I realized it might be a little easier to reach through the side, but by the time the car is lifted and wheel and fender-liner are removed, you could have the TCV half-way off going through the bottom.
      2007 S40 T5 AWD

    23. #21
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      thanks everyone! i will give it shot this long holiday weekend using ramps.

      i bought my pierburg tcv for $33 on ebay - no tubing.

      edit: just ordered 11" long needle nose pliers for $10 on amazon. hope it makes the job more pleasant
      Last edited by jschinito; 12-20-2016 at 08:56 AM.
      2008 C70 GT - Black/Black/Nordic Oak
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    24. #22
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      Just to stay in the topic and not create a new one - can somebody with Vida can confirm if doing a TCV test ("activate" function) should result in any audible feedback? Tested mine recently, with engine on and off and the same result - no audible difference at all. TCV is working, during test run goes to 55% duty cycle (not sure if thats the correct value but it seem to be nominal).
      Remember reading posts about "relocating tuned TCVs due to heat and sound they make" so what gives?....
      2005 V50, T5AWD, M66
      E-Focus Torque mount, E-46 bi-xenon retrofit, de-nanny mod, Black Diamond braided b.l.+Brembo discs+ATE ceramic pads

    25. #23
      Don't forget to give the new TCV a few mile break in period. Keep it out of boost for the first mile, then slowly build boost over the 2nd and 3rd miles until you're up to wide open throttle.

      Quote Originally Posted by LizardOfBodom View Post
      Remember reading posts about "relocating tuned TCVs due to heat and sound they make" so what gives?....
      The TCV does no make a sound. What people hear is the TCV rattling against the fire wall (a common relocation spot). Especially the aftermarket TCVs that are mounted to aluminum brackets, those make all sorts of rattles against the firewall under full boost. If your TCV is still in the stock location, or it's sufficiently spaced from the firewall, you probably won't hear anything.

    26. #24
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      The TCV does no make a sound. What people hear is the TCV rattling against the fire wall (a common relocation spot). Especially the aftermarket TCVs that are mounted to aluminum brackets, those make all sorts of rattles against the firewall under full boost. If your TCV is still in the stock location, or it's sufficiently spaced from the firewall, you probably won't hear anything.
      Thanks for clarification, makes sense now. Yes, stock one and stock location.
      So what is the "activate" test in Vida for? would work only when car is driving? Tried to activate it when idling and duty cycle still remained 0%.
      2005 V50, T5AWD, M66
      E-Focus Torque mount, E-46 bi-xenon retrofit, de-nanny mod, Black Diamond braided b.l.+Brembo discs+ATE ceramic pads

    27. #25
      I'm not sure... I still don't have Vida.
      But if I had to guess, it would a process of testing the TCV at various boost levels to ensure it is working properly.

    28. #26
      Member Veefifty T5AWD's Avatar
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      When I replaced mine on the V50, I had a bear of a time getting the hoses back onto the nipples. I found that heating the ends of the hoses made them slip on much easier! Oh, and be sure to just slide the clamps back, leaving them on the hoses the whole time. Then, once the hoses are back on the TCV, simply open and slide the clamps back in place.
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    29. #27
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      appreciate the tips! i bought some long nose pliers... with big hands the less i need to reach into things the better.

      how'd you heat the hoses? blow dryer? i'm in sunny california but still in 40-60s so chilly.

      Quote Originally Posted by Veefifty T5AWD View Post
      When I replaced mine on the V50, I had a bear of a time getting the hoses back onto the nipples. I found that heating the ends of the hoses made them slip on much easier! Oh, and be sure to just slide the clamps back, leaving them on the hoses the whole time. Then, once the hoses are back on the TCV, simply open and slide the clamps back in place.
      2008 C70 GT - Black/Black/Nordic Oak
      Shark Tune - GoVo ECU Spacer - Ford e-Focus Mount - Koni FSD - Elevate SwayBar - Massive Camber Arms - Centric Rotors - Akebono Pads - Nokian Z-Line 235/45/18 - Mods4cars SmartTop - Llumar/Madico Tint - E46 Bi-Xenon Retrofit w/ZKW-R Lens Morimoto XB35 - LED Int/Ext/Halos - Fryalip - Fumoto Valve

    30. #28
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      Quote Originally Posted by jschinito View Post
      appreciate the tips! i bought some long nose pliers... with big hands the less i need to reach into things the better.

      how'd you heat the hoses? blow dryer? i'm in sunny california but still in 40-60s so chilly.
      Blow dryer could work, but I used a heat gun. It doesn't need much heat, just enough to make the rubber a bit more pliable.
      Logan

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      2008 S40 2.4i - hers
      2013 C30 Polestar Limited Edition #87/250 - (former) | 2005 V50 T5 AWD (former)

    31. #29
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      What? No... Just lift the front of the car on jacks or ramps. Then it's a fairly straight reach up along side the turbo. You do have to reach around the axle, but no need to remove the wheel. I swapped out TCVs on the last V50 in 30 minutes, but that was the 3rd one that I've done.
      Yeah I tried that the first time too - IMO it's much easier to see what you're doing from the side than the bottom. Besides, wheel off is like an extra 2 min of work. But whatever works for you is the right way to do it The CBV definitely needs to be accessed from the side though.

      Try spraying just a bit of wd40 on the inside of the hose, or put some on your fingers and touch the end of the hose - it'll slide right on like butter.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD M66

    32. #30
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      Quote Originally Posted by jschinito View Post
      i'm in sunny california but still in 40-60s so chilly.
      lol so cal wuss
      2005 V50 T5 AWD M66

    33. #31
      Surprised to see so much love for the plastic OEM valve.

      The IPD HD is an all metal valve body and uses an industrial control style coil. I found the strain relief a little wanting but some butyl rubber and split loom took care of that. Ziptied to the firewall and never looked back.

      I guess if you consider it a consumable like the FPS than it's probably OK. I just didn't want to worry about it again. The VVT solenoids, for example, are all metal.
      '05 S40 T5 AWD M66 sport/winter/ew. Michelin PS A/S+. 6000k 50w HID low/HIR1 high/full LED conversions. RiCA SW. Evoelate intake. IPD rear sway, skidplate, TCV.
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    34. #32
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      totally a wuss! :-)

      Quote Originally Posted by mercdude View Post
      lol so cal wuss
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    35. #33
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      ipd definitely sounds superior... heard their initial version had issues, though. but honestly i'm cheap and the oem was much cheaper. also the stock one actually is still working at 70k (although probably not optimally in the last 10k) so if i get another 50-60k out of this one i'm happy... will likely sell the car well before it needs replacing again

      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      Surprised to see so much love for the plastic OEM valve.

      The IPD HD is an all metal valve body and uses an industrial control style coil. I found the strain relief a little wanting but some butyl rubber and split loom took care of that. Ziptied to the firewall and never looked back.

      I guess if you consider it a consumable like the FPS than it's probably OK. I just didn't want to worry about it again. The VVT solenoids, for example, are all metal.
      2008 C70 GT - Black/Black/Nordic Oak
      Shark Tune - GoVo ECU Spacer - Ford e-Focus Mount - Koni FSD - Elevate SwayBar - Massive Camber Arms - Centric Rotors - Akebono Pads - Nokian Z-Line 235/45/18 - Mods4cars SmartTop - Llumar/Madico Tint - E46 Bi-Xenon Retrofit w/ZKW-R Lens Morimoto XB35 - LED Int/Ext/Halos - Fryalip - Fumoto Valve

    36. #34
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      I've talked to a few tuners and they said that the stock peirburg unit is the easiest to get to work properly. So if you're going tune, then I'd say stay stock. Counter-intuitive, right?
      2005 V50 T5 AWD M66

    37. #35
      Quote Originally Posted by theshadow27 View Post
      Surprised to see so much love for the plastic OEM valve.
      Quote Originally Posted by mercdude View Post
      I've talked to a few tuners and they said that the stock peirburg unit is the easiest to get to work properly. So if you're going tune, then I'd say stay stock. Counter-intuitive, right?
      This! There are many aftermarket TCVs available for our cars that are superior in build quality, but adjusting timing for these TCVs has proven extremely challenging for all of the major tuners.

      The stock TCV has proven sufficient for both K04 and K16 applications. Relocating it away from the turbo has allowed stock units to last as long as 150k miles, which is hardly disposable.
      Especially since you can now buy the pierburg unit for $30-50, it's the better option in my opinion.

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