2006 S40 2.4i Intermittent Stalling (p0101) - Page 3
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    1. #71
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      Quote Originally Posted by mklinker View Post
      Open the hood, grab the hose going into it... you will feel the pump vibrating.
      For some reason I feel like this and/or the whole hose that's on the right side of the engine, along with the valve that controls vacuum, is my issue. It's 200$ for the hose and 155$ for the pump. Already dropped 300$ on a new throttle body that didn't fix it but throttle response is much better. Will test later.

      How did you do your smoke test?

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      2006 S40 2.4i FWD

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    3. #72
      Quote Originally Posted by evy0311 View Post
      For some reason I feel like this and/or the whole hose that's on the right side of the engine, along with the valve that controls vacuum, is my issue. It's 200$ for the hose and 155$ for the pump. Already dropped 300$ on a new throttle body that didn't fix it but throttle response is much better. Will test later.

      How did you do your smoke test?

      Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
      Hooked up some hardware store hose and puffed on a cigar. It sucked, wouldn't recommend it, and unless there is a huge, obvious hole in your hoses, it wont tell you much.

      I doubt your vacuum pump is broken... if it was it would mess up your braking but there is a check valve so it being broken wouldnt cause a vacuum leak.

    4. #73
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      Quote Originally Posted by mklinker View Post
      Hooked up some hardware store hose and puffed on a cigar. It sucked, wouldn't recommend it, and unless there is a huge, obvious hole in your hoses, it wont tell you much.

      I doubt your vacuum pump is broken... if it was it would mess up your braking but there is a check valve so it being broken wouldnt cause a vacuum leak.
      I just know I used to hear it buzz and I haven't in a while.

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      2006 S40 2.4i FWD

    5. #74
      Quote Originally Posted by evy0311 View Post
      I just know I used to hear it buzz and I haven't in a while.

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      Check the fuses, and see if it is hot. If its hot, its probably working.

    6. #75
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      Quote Originally Posted by mklinker View Post
      Check the fuses, and see if it is hot. If its hot, its probably working.
      It is hot, but I'll check the fuse just in case. It was hot yesterday when it was 92° outside and I had just drove around for a bit, but I'll check it just in case.

      The code I have is a p0101 code, so Im assuming it's something with vacuum/intake. Did you see the thing about the valve that goes close to the firewall?

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      2006 S40 2.4i FWD

    7. #76
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      Called the independent Volvo repair shop in Cincinnati that we've used before. They said a smoke test would be a couple hundred dollars and an A/C compressor clutch reshim would be 200$. Too expensive!!

      Plan on doing both of these things myself to save a lot of money. They also told me they still don't know what's wrong with the car- that they have absolutely no idea and can't help. Hmm.
      2006 S40 2.4i FWD

    8. #77
      Glad to hear your throttle response has improved, but sad to hear it hasn't fixed your issue.

      That being said, the vacuum pump has a specific pressure it's supposed to start and stop at. There's a thread around here about someone who's was running all the time and was too hot to touch, and in the thread it specified when it was supposed to turn on and when it was supposed to turn off. It might have been on MatthewsVolvo or the UK forums.

      Obviously if it's running all the time and you can see in VIDA the pressure is below or above the cutoff, you know the pump is bad.

      If the pressure never drops to where it needs to go, you know you either have an unseen leak in the hose or a pump that is not pumping like it should.

      Either way, going to be a sucky and expensive OEM fix unless you want to make the hose yourself and cut the dead ends off the bad hose and reuse them on the one you make. You could probably get away for making a hose for $50 in parts from the local hardware store, and just make sure you test airflow directions so you know where to cut in any one way PCV valves.
      Last edited by avenger09123; 05-18-2017 at 09:25 PM.
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    9. #78
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      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      Glad to hear your throttle response has improved, but sad to hear it hasn't fixed your issue.

      That being said, the vacuum pump has a specific pressure it's supposed to start and stop at. There's a thread around here about someone who's was running all the time and was too hot to touch, and in the thread it specified when it was supposed to turn on and when it was supposed to turn off. It might have been on MatthewsVolvo or the UK forums.

      Obviously if it's running all the time and you can see in VIDA the pressure is below or above the cutoff, you know the pump is bad.

      If the pressure never drops to where it needs to go, you know you either have an unseen leak in the hose or a pump that is not pumping like it should.

      Either way, going to be a sucky and expensive OEM fix unless you want to make the hose yourself and cut the dead ends off the bad hose and reuse them on the one you make. You could probably get away for making a hose for $50 in parts from the local hardware store, and just make sure you test airflow directions so you know where to cut in any one way PCV valves.
      Tomorrow after my football practice I'll go ahead and check the vacuum stuff. I do know sometimes it is very hot to the touch... Maybe this is a sign. I almost wonder if there is a slight leak and over the years has forced the pump to run too hard. We'll see.

      I'll check it tomorrow and get back with you. If this doesn't point to anything I have no idea what it could be at this point. Other than something electrical.

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      2006 S40 2.4i FWD

    10. #79
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      Car has been running better lately since the new throttle body but still has the P0101 CEL code and also has the RPM drop when coming to a stop. Anyone have anything else I can check? I still haven't been able to check the vacuum pump but am not sure exactly what I need to check

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    11. #80
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      Vacuum pump is a supplement for the brake booster. Not your problem.

      As you know, this is a MAF code for out of expected range readings. The engine is using a significantly different amount of air than the MAF is recording as going past. Your RPM drop pretty much confirms you have an issue. Keep this in mind when coming up with troubleshooting ideas.

      If you have a significant vacuum leak between the MAF & the engine you'll get this code. Try spraying brake or carb cleaner around any locations you you suspect possible leakage. A change in RPM will indicate a leak. Boot behind MAF, intake runner o-rings, etc. Perhaps remove large vacuum hose & plug opening as a troubleshooting experiment. Remember you'll have no power brakes - Don't Drive!

      This code can also be triggered by disrupted airflow through the MAF. You need smooth flow. A common cause would be an aftermarket intake with a bend right before the MAF. One forum member chased this issue for quite some time before they discovered someone had modified the insides of their stock intake box in an effort to get more flow.
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    12. #81
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      Quote Originally Posted by pczeilon View Post
      Vacuum pump is a supplement for the brake booster. Not your problem.

      As you know, this is a MAF code for out of expected range readings. The engine is using a significantly different amount of air than the MAF is recording as going past. Your RPM drop pretty much confirms you have an issue. Keep this in mind when coming up with troubleshooting ideas.

      If you have a significant vacuum leak between the MAF & the engine you'll get this code. Try spraying brake or carb cleaner around any locations you you suspect possible leakage. A change in RPM will indicate a leak. Boot behind MAF, intake runner o-rings, etc. Perhaps remove large vacuum hose & plug opening as a troubleshooting experiment. Remember you'll have no power brakes - Don't Drive!

      This code can also be triggered by disrupted airflow through the MAF. You need smooth flow. A common cause would be an aftermarket intake with a bend right before the MAF. One forum member chased this issue for quite some time before they discovered someone had modified the insides of their stock intake box in an effort to get more flow.
      I'm 99% sure my airbox isn't modified, knowing the previous owner was an older couple and it doesn't look modified to me.

      It's still the stock intake, so I don't think flow would be an issue. I'm also pretty sure I don't have an oiled filter or anything that could block airflow.

      Have tried spraying carb cleaner and all but with no luck. Have replaced the manifold gasket seals and the throttle body seal as well. Also replaced a couple vacuum hoses. Would a smoke test be advised? Not sure where else I could have a leak

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    13. #82
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      Pull your air filter out & have a look. It's simple & will give you peace of mind. Perhaps pull the snorkel also just for grins.

      I don't think smoke is going to tell you anything you don't already know. A tiny pinhole leak isn't going to throw this code. Pull the vacuum line & plug like I suggested. Your leak could be way down that line toward the booster or somewhere spray isn't getting to it. Plugging that big line will allow you to eliminate all that stuff in one easy test.
      Last edited by pczeilon; 06-04-2017 at 11:35 AM.
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    14. #83
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      Quote Originally Posted by pczeilon View Post
      Pull your air filter out & have a look. It's simple & will give you peace of mind. Perhaps pull the snorkel also just for grins.

      i don't think smoke is going to tell you anything you don't already know. A tiny pinhole leak isn't going to throw his code. Pull the vacuum line & plug like I suggested. Your leak could be way down that line toward the booster or somewhere spray isn't getting to it. Plugging that big line will allow you to eliminate all that stuff in one easy test.
      Should we plug the line itself or the port that it goes into? I'm assuming you're talking about the line that goes from the brake booster into the top of the intake manifold. We've had the snorkel off before and it seems to be fine to me.

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    15. #84
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      Yes, the big line to the booster, etc. Plug the intake manifold. Unplug the vacuum pump or it will (should) run constantly trying to build vacuum in the disconnected line.
      Last edited by pczeilon; 06-04-2017 at 11:36 AM.
      2007 V70 5 Speed
      2005 S40 2.4i 5 Speed

      1995 855 5 Speed SOLD

    16. #85
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      Quote Originally Posted by pczeilon View Post
      Yes, the big line to the booster, etc. Plug the intake manifold. Unplug the vacuum pump or it will run constantly trying to build vacuum in the disconnected line.
      Okay. I will do this later when I'm home from work. Should be in about an hour or so. Also need to tackle the sunroof drains leaking.

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      2006 S40 2.4i FWD

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