Any guide for replacing left side axle seal?
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    1. #1
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      Any guide for replacing left side axle seal?

      I'm leaking from the left hand side axle to transmission seal. Or driver's side axle to those in North America.





      Now, it looks clean as I took the pic after cleaning the area. But after cleaning that area, it is wet again today and dripping ATF on the floor.

      I can't find any guide on replacing this seal on a XC90. VIDA uses too many special tools in how to replace it. Is it really necessary to remove the ball joint and control arm? I came across this video ...

      https://youtu.be/Bfk0URzPa1I

      It's a V70 but his method looks pretty simple and fast.

      Any other advice much welcomed as this would be the first time I'm tackling a drive shaft.
      08/09 XC90 2.5T Non-US market 78k miles

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    3. #2
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      The XC90 is a heavy car, I usually use 2 separate jackstands under subframe for safety purposes.

      I just replaced the same seal (left side axle seal) on my 1998 Volvo S70, couple things:

      1. Use only Volvo or Corteco (Coreteco is OEM) seal.

      2. Use your hand and feel the existing seal location, when installing new seal, make sure it is in the same exact spot. I installed the new seal a bit too deep (2-3mm further inward) and ended up with a leak. A week later, I had to re-position the seal!

      So whatever you do, take note of the existing seal location (i.e. how deep it is from the OUTER edge of the trans housing).
      Best is to use your finger and feel it. Take a few photos.


      I posted the photos in the thread below. Pay attention to posts from 16 Oct 2016 and 22 Oct 2016:
      https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...64252&start=30

    4. #3
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      Thanks very much CN90. After reading your link a few times and other resources I went to tackle this today.

      Oh my ... got stuck with removing the other axle CV from the hub. Had to knock it out all the way.

      And then got stuck again removing the axle from the transmission. My first pry bar broke. Then I bought a few. Problem is the space in there to wedge is tight and I can only get a small pry bar. I tried banging the pry bar but no luck.

      Any ideas anyone?
      08/09 XC90 2.5T Non-US market 78k miles

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    6. #4
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      If you read that thread again, most people use "Cold Chisel".
      Something like this:

      https://www.zoro.com/dasco-pro-cold-...7g/i/G4579215/

      Just wedge it in and hammer it, the axle will come out.

    7. #5
      Member T501's Avatar
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      Yeah those axles can be a real PITA to get out. Just went through this on my s60. Hammering a cold chisel and many other various tools up there did nothing for me. I even took mine to my Volvo specialist and they even gave up on it. Read post 19 in my thread to see how I finally got it out.

      http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...t-old-chestnut
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 177K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, HD coils, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 79k miles
      Wife -'13 C30 T5 R-Design Dad - '98 S70 T5 160K + miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD HD rear springs, SAS delete Mom -'10 S80 V8 Executive Sis - '02 S80 T6 Backup car -'13 S60 T5

    8. #6
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      Quote Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
      If you read that thread again, most people use "Cold Chisel".
      Something like this:

      https://www.zoro.com/dasco-pro-cold-...7g/i/G4579215/

      Just wedge it in and hammer it, the axle will come out.
      Yup. Forgot to mention that. I have that Dasco cold chisel. Maybe it wasn't big enough but I bent my cold chisel with my big hammer while trying to get the axle out. I thought of getting another bigger chisel but decided not to as I was afraid of damaging the axle with the first one already bent and the axle not moving even a tiny bit.
      08/09 XC90 2.5T Non-US market 78k miles

    9. #7
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      Quote Originally Posted by T501 View Post
      Yeah those axles can be a real PITA to get out. Just went through this on my s60. Hammering a cold chisel and many other various tools up there did nothing for me. I even took mine to my Volvo specialist and they even gave up on it. Read post 19 in my thread to see how I finally got it out.

      http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...t-old-chestnut
      After reading your thread and finding green threadlock on the axle threads, I decided to pay someone to do this who has a lift. I was working on the XC on jackstands so space was limited.

      After giving up and reassembling the axle back again, I found it difficult to get the outer axle into the wheel hub even after cleaning the threads with a brush and rag, and lubricating the thread. Closer inspection I noted this





      There's this green dried up stuff on the thread. I had to use a nail to get every thread cleaned of this green stuff. Then only the axle went in easily as it should into the wheel hub. I didn't know this before, but after googling there is such a thing as green threadlock. I believe someone used that on the axle threads. If it's on the outer axle, it may be on the inner axle thread too.

      The XC is at the shop as I'm writing this. I'll post an update.
      08/09 XC90 2.5T Non-US market 78k miles

    10. #8
      Member T501's Avatar
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      Hmm, never heard of green thread lock. That's pretty stupid of whoever did that if it is indeed thread locker.

      Well I hope your shop gets it out for you. Good luck!
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 177K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, HD coils, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 79k miles
      Wife -'13 C30 T5 R-Design Dad - '98 S70 T5 160K + miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD HD rear springs, SAS delete Mom -'10 S80 V8 Executive Sis - '02 S80 T6 Backup car -'13 S60 T5

    11. #9
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      Quote Originally Posted by T501 View Post
      Hmm, never heard of green thread lock.
      Me neither! But can't think of anything else.

      08/09 XC90 2.5T Non-US market 78k miles

    12. #10
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      Job done but not quite. The shop tore my outer CV boot and I have to send the car back for them to replace it.

      There was no threadlock on the inner axle thread, only rust. They greased it up before installing. The manager told me it's not uncommon to see rust on the inner axle thread on the Volvos. He's not sure why some have rust some don't.

      No way I could have done this on my own. The shop used these to get the axle off with two persons.



      This is the left axle. If the right need to be removed in the future, I will most likely get the shop to do it as that side may have rust too. Pity though, if it wasn't for the rust and the threadlock, removing the axle isn't that difficult.

      Thanks everyone for all the advice.
      08/09 XC90 2.5T Non-US market 78k miles

    13. #11
      Member T501's Avatar
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      Wow! They bent some big pry bars getting it out. I'm glad mine finally popped with my impact wrench/chissel set up.

      The passenger side is cake compare to the driver's side because there's no circlip holding the splines in. It should slide out by hand.
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 177K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, HD coils, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 79k miles
      Wife -'13 C30 T5 R-Design Dad - '98 S70 T5 160K + miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD HD rear springs, SAS delete Mom -'10 S80 V8 Executive Sis - '02 S80 T6 Backup car -'13 S60 T5

    14. #12
      Junior Member atraudes's Avatar
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      When I was trying to replace my axle, I tried a slide hammer and prying at it with all manner of pry and crowbars. The slide hammer did nothing and I gave up on the pry bars for fear of cracking the transmission housing or damaging the seal. I ended up using this trick, modified slightly:



      I looped two wires around the axle on one end and an axe head on the other. Three firm swings and out it popped. I feel much safer using this technique because you don't risk marring anything, and it works on the same principles as a slide hammer except exponentially cheaper and you don't have to track down the proper crow's foot (oh yeah, and it worked). The force is completely focused on the circlip.

      Now I get to say that I've used an axe as part of a car repair!
      2004 XC90 T6, 150k miles

    15. #13
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      Quote Originally Posted by NikMA View Post
      Me neither! But can't think of anything else.

      Entirely possible someone did an axle ping repair, all sorts of stuff gets put in there, from the Volvo OE (which some folks suggest is indeed a threadlocker of some form, thought in fact it was quoted as being blue or green in color on a few posts) to simple Teflon pipe putty. Anything which fills and/or cushions the wheel bearing hub to driveline spline "slop".
      Can see a few reference links:
      https://www.ipdusa.com/techtips/1018...h-it-s-a-thing
      http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic...n-axle-shafts/
      https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...hp?f=1&t=29498
      http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...le-Spline-Snap
      2005 XC90 B5254T2 175k
      2008 XC90 B8444S Sport 110k

    16. #14
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      Related question re OUTER CV Boot...

      - Since the axle is so difficult to remove, is it possible to replace the OUTER CV Boot in situ, i.e., undo the hub connection, leave the axle hanging and replace the OUTER CV Boot as is?

    17. #15
      Junior Member atraudes's Avatar
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      Short answer: yes. Long answer, you probably don't want to. I looked into doing exactly that after failing so many times to get it removed. You'll need roughly the same tools to pull the hub off the shaft one way or the other, but having proper access to it on a bench is hard to beat. You'll also be able to do things like hammer the end on/off if all else fails. That said, if you're adept at working in tight or tricky spaces, there's no technical reason you can't.

      You should be able to use a tool like this to pull the hub off and push it back on, though I can't say for sure as I haven't done it myself.



      I'd recommend spending the $10 on the steel cable and clamps at your local home improvement store like I did (post #12) and just pop that puppy out.

      Edit: Now that I'm staring at the tool for a minute, I don't see how it could press the hub back on. I believe you'd have to hammer it back on which you wouldn't want to do with the transmission ultimately taking the blows and the joint flopping around. Maybe someone can weigh in on an alternative method.
      Last edited by atraudes; 03-13-2017 at 09:31 PM.
      2004 XC90 T6, 150k miles

    18. #16
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      Quote Originally Posted by atraudes View Post
      ...Edit: Now that I'm staring at the tool for a minute, I don't see how it could press the hub back on. I believe you'd have to hammer it back on which you wouldn't want to do with the transmission ultimately taking the blows and the joint flopping around. Maybe someone can weigh in on an alternative method.
      I don't have the tool yet (will buy it soon), but I am thinking for re-assembly...

      - Place the axle bolt in the axle all the way in.
      - Install the CV Tool in such as way that the axle bolt is about 3 mm from the round hole.
      - Place a solid wrench in that 3-mm space.
      - Turn the axle bolt CCW, it will force the axle inward.

      Just a thought...

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