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    1. #1
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      High mileage C70?

      I just watched the first of the new series of Top Gear and Volvo is featured. Of the three super high mileage vehicles is a V series Volvo plus a London cab and a Mercedes. This made me wonder what is the high mileage C70 on this board, or elsewhere if the details are known? Any suggestions for making a C70 last for the long run?
      In the Extra Gear section of the show Chris Harris took a new V60 Polestar onto the track and said some nice things about it.

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    3. #2
      Junior Member Olstyle's Avatar
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      From my experience with the old C70, the main problem are suspension parts. Whenever I had a service, a bushing was out of order. That car was just too heavy for the platform. I expect my P1 C70 (currently at sub 70k, so not in the milage top flight) to behave quite similar, seeing as that platform was meant for semi small hatchbacks.
      Last edited by Olstyle; 03-17-2017 at 05:16 PM.
      C70 I 2.0 -> C70 II T5 -> the Moon?

    4. #3
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      I know it's not a C70, but my previous V50 (on the same P1 chassis) had about 430 000kms when I sold it, and it's still going strong...
      2012 C70 T5 A - Polestar Tune, Elevate downpipe, VIVA Performance exhaust, JR filter, GoVo ECU spacer, 19"x8.5" Polestar Rep wheels, H&R spacers, Volvo OEM lip spoiler, Heico front spoiler lips
      2005 V50 T5 M AWD - Passion Red/Graphite T-tec, sport pkg, Volvo body kit
      1998 S70 T5 M - Black/Graphite, 239whp/317wtq on old setup, List of mods

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    6. #4
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      Oooh I was hoping you would have a customer story. I know that Volvo sold about 5000-6000 C70 per year in North America so the sample size is quite small. Still there should be some experience out there. 10 Years@14,000 miles/year, maybe? Something?
      Suspension advice is solid.
      Quote Originally Posted by rj240 View Post
      I know it's not a C70, but my previous V50 (on the same P1 chassis) had about 430 000kms when I sold it, and it's still going strong...

    7. #5
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      All of my customer's cars all have super low mileage. I guess most of them don't really drive them in the winter months...
      2012 C70 T5 A - Polestar Tune, Elevate downpipe, VIVA Performance exhaust, JR filter, GoVo ECU spacer, 19"x8.5" Polestar Rep wheels, H&R spacers, Volvo OEM lip spoiler, Heico front spoiler lips
      2005 V50 T5 M AWD - Passion Red/Graphite T-tec, sport pkg, Volvo body kit
      1998 S70 T5 M - Black/Graphite, 239whp/317wtq on old setup, List of mods

    8. #6
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      Quote Originally Posted by rj240 View Post
      All of my customer's cars all have super low mileage. I guess most of them don't really drive them in the winter months...
      Yeah - lots of C70s do seem to be third cars... lots of low mileage 2013's 2012's around these days. My '09 has a mere 95,000 so far... regular oil changes, and saving up for the timing belt next year.... I did look at a '12 with ~150k, but they were asking a bit too much for it given there was no evidence that the timing belt had been done, and it was white, so I walked away.

    9. #7
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      I got DW a FIAT 500L to pile the miles on, so I've been driving the '13 for almost two years, slowing our mileage to ~48K miles over 3.5 years. By far, the most miles we've had on any of our four C70s. Since I got a fantastic deal on one of the last '13s around, I'm having a hard time assigning a "value" to it. I wonder what the next year will hold in terms of resale/trade-in value as we will hopefully have relatively lower mileage for its age. Gonna be out of warranty by summer, I'm afraid. That's almost uncharted territory for us(exception being the '10 XC60 we traded with 56k miles on it). BTW, DW will have over 30k miles on the FIAT in under two years...I'm glad she like that little car and isn't adding those miles to the C70
      Current: '13 C70 Caspian Blue 2015 FIAT 500L Lounge Grigio Chiaro...until Volvo brings the XC40 to the States!!!
      Previous Volvos[/I]: '11 C70 Ice White;
      Polestar ,'10 XC60 T6 Electric Silver; '08 C70, '07 XC70, '04 V70', '04 C70, '01 S40, '80 242 GT '72 145

    10. #8
      Junior Member gotart's Avatar
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      Good deal on mine

      Quote Originally Posted by Sysyphus61 View Post
      Yeah - lots of C70s do seem to be third cars... lots of low mileage 2013's 2012's around these days. My '09 has a mere 95,000 so far... regular oil changes, and saving up for the timing belt next year.... I did look at a '12 with ~150k, but they were asking a bit too much for it given there was no evidence that the timing belt had been done, and it was white, so I walked away.
      I got my 2011 C70 at very end of 2016 and it had just about 20k on it. I got it for a song at the dealer. I'm the 3rd owner and so I just can't believe it had such low mileage. There have been no hidden problems. So far I've put about 1500 miles on it and about 75% with the top down. So, yeah it must have been a 3rd car. It certainly was not a daily driver. It is a heavy car (weight). I agree with Olstyle as I can see suspension parts are certainly abused in this banger. My S40 is light and nimble. Both have Polestar tune and the C70 really needed it.
      2011 S40 T5 Polestar-Barents-Convector Wheels/BLIS/R Type Spoiler
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    11. #9
      Huh. I might be an exception. I bought my 2009 C70 in 2012 with 55000 miles on it. I think it was a lease return. I immediately put 25000 miles on it in the first 9 month. It was my daily driver for a few years and then I shipped it to Europe. Now I daily drive it in northern Sweden as well and winter temp is -10C / 12F for 4 months, give or take a few degrees. about 130k miles on it right now.

      Yeah it is a heavy car and daily driving in the winter on bumpy ass ice is rough as hell on my suspension, but no problems so far. Survived it's 2nd subarctic winter so far. I am considering getting a cheap beater for winter driving though because I feel while the C70 can handle it, the winter does abuse the car too much for my taste.
      2009 C70

    12. #10
      Junior Member gotart's Avatar
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      Mar 19, 2017
      That is very good to know.
      When I lived in No. Ontario. I always had a beater for the winter.
      2011 S40 T5 Polestar-Barents-Convector Wheels/BLIS/R Type Spoiler
      2011- C70-T5 - Polestar--Electric Silver-Loaded- except Blis
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    13. #11
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      I live in North Carolina and I am just thinking about driving in places which have snow and ice months of the year. Another driver can have a simple sliding-on-icy-street-brake-lock rear impact which can have catastrophic top mechanism damage.
      Hat tip to the Sweden driver. See any others from our C70 tribe up in your corner of the world?
      Last edited by tarhoosier; 03-19-2017 at 02:34 PM.

    14. #12
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      my 2008 bought in 2012 only had 27k miles so was definitely a low-mileage/weekend car with 2 previous owners. it's my daily driver and i'm at 75k miles now.

      as for making it last, do the regular maintenance (oil, filter changes, brake fluid, coolant flush, lube top's joints and clean seals), some extra maintenance for optimal performance (plugs, tcv, fps, trans drain&fill), and save money for anticipated wear parts (brake pads/rotors, battery, lower control arms, engine mounts, tires) and un-anticipated but common wear parts (cv boots/axles, ignition switch, wheel bearings, end links, shocks, strut mounts). and cross your fingers nothing serious goes wrong with the top once you're out of warranty... it's rare but a couple of folks have had hydraulic leaks or issues with cables.

      don't get me wrong, i love the car. and just spent a bunch of money to do the timing belt and fluid flushes to get me ready for another 3-5 years. but as someone said, putting a heavy hard-top convertible on the same p1 platform as the s40/c30, mazda3 and ford focus means a tough (and thus short life) for many of the parts.

      it's not a honda accord that you can drive up to 100k miles with just oil/filter changes. if you want to keep it a while, plan to spend the money to do so. if you're handy with tools you can save a lot ordering parts online and swapping the out yourself.
      2008 C70 GT - Black/Black/Nordic Oak/18x8 Black Midirs
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    15. #13
      Quote Originally Posted by tarhoosier View Post
      Hat tip to the Sweden driver. See any others from our C70 tribe up in your corner of the world?
      My town has about 100,000 people and is about 3-4 hours south of the arctic circle. According to the local Volvo dealer there are about 5 other C70 in town. I've seen 2-3 others, and I see another one that is used in the winter. Based on the Swedish C70 club almost all of the garage their car for the winter. Cars are crazy expensive here and people who car afford a C70 have another cheap car for the winter.
      2009 C70

    16. #14
      Some other comments about my experience with the C70 in the winter:

      - Rough roads from ice bumps the hell out of the car. Rough on the suspension and also the top as well. I can hear my top squeak and shake on bad parts. Once a winter it shakes enough to set off the alarm that triggers when you move the car when the top isn't fully open or closed.
      - Apparently Volvo set a low temperature cut off so if it is too cold outside you can't put the top down. If it is too cold you get a warning on the dash when you try to lower it.
      - Window is frozen, so it doesn't move up and down, which is a problem when you have a convertible where the window moves slightly every time you open or close the door. So you open the door and the window still comes out of the rubber gap, but it won't close. Time to go in and get a hairdryer / gently press down on the window and make sure you don't burn out the window motor
      2009 C70

    17. #15
      Junior Member Olstyle's Avatar
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      Someone in another thread mentioned successfully loosening the window with an old credit card. He/she called the procedure"slide to unlock".
      C70 I 2.0 -> C70 II T5 -> the Moon?

    18. #16
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      One of several reasons for picking the C70 was that it is a hard top. It is a 4 season car if needed, which is the way we look at it at least. The plan was to not use it in the winter but with occasional exceptions. .
      It has 63K, I do my own oil changes (now), but we do take it in per the mileage maintenance schedule. The pads are getting close, that I know. The only problem we have had is with the rear camber, which toasted the Hankook Ventus that we had on the rear. Adjustable camber arms installed now. Love the car so far. We opted for the extended warranty when we got the car, so far have not needed it. I don't think the rear adjustable arms would have fallen under the warranty. I plan on installing the Mod4Cars top control which has been sitting in a drawer for a year now, this spring.
      2011 C70, Flamenco Red, Dynamic Package, Climate Package

    19. #17
      112K miles on our '07 C70. It is used as a year round daily driver, snows in the winter, maintenance per the schedule, lube and clean the rubber on the top regularly. Replaced engine mount (front), CVs, brakes, and complete front suspension including springs (was riding pretty low). Just replaced T belt and planning for many more miles to come. It's a bit noisy (vibrations and creaks) especially in cold weather, but there's nothing else like it.
      2016 S60 Inscription T5 AWD Platinum w/Climate and BLIS Osmium Grey/Soft Beige
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    20. #18
      Quote Originally Posted by Sysyphus61 View Post
      Yeah - lots of C70s do seem to be third cars... lots of low mileage 2013's 2012's around these days. My '09 has a mere 95,000 so far... regular oil changes, and saving up for the timing belt next year.... I did look at a '12 with ~150k, but they were asking a bit too much for it given there was no evidence that the timing belt had been done, and it was white, so I walked away.
      My '09 is a daily driver and not quite to 65k. I don't like long commutes, so choose my work wisely. That and my M66 has to last me until I hit the lottery or Volvo brings a manual C90.
      2009 Polestar C70 M66 Passion Red/Graphite/Aluminum - Volvo Strut bar, Volvo wind blocker, K&N, ECU Spacer, e-Focus torque mount, JBRacing RSB, Moog Mazdaspeed end links, 722908030 Porsche TCV, Silicone IC Hose Kit, Koni FSD, need to mount 31338475 IC. Next: downpipe, Rica stage 2.
      2011 XC60 3.2L Barents Blue/Anthracite/Aluminum - rings/pistons at 35k, new engine at 50k.

    21. #19
      I have a 1998 C70 Coupe that has 153000 miles - This past weekend I drove 300 miles from NY to VA. (I forgot how good the stereo system is...) Car is good condition and engine runs great. Has a few issues that I will be working on. The current issues are no cruise control and windshield washer is out. My son uses it during the winter months in NY oh and that's why I have to fix the bumper.... He drives his 2011 C30 (~78K)the rest of the time. I think I may have to do engine mounts but I am still checking. BTW My daughter's 03 S60 AWD has ~160K My Ex-wife's 07 XC90 went over 200,000 miles recently and My 2012 S60 have only 77K.... No major issues with any of these cars - just maintenance and some wear and tear items - (Now the Mini Cooper I had gee where do I begin..... I got rid of that at 120K miles after 7 years - needed transmission, radiator, water pump, front end bushings, 2 clutches, motor mounts.... )

    22. #20
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      Any advice on what to check when potentially buying a high mileage c70?
      2014 XC60 T6 - P* Tune, K-Pax Exhaust, DO88 FMIC, Ferrita DP, TSW Bathurst w/ Conti DWS06, R-Design Suspension, IPD Rear Sway, Morimoto D2S 4.0 HID Projectors, Skeletonized Airbox, Intake Resonator Delete, Powerflex Bushings, Colder NGK Plugs
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    23. #21
      Junior Member gotart's Avatar
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      Post Usual Stuff

      Quote Originally Posted by NorthwestMoose View Post
      Any advice on what to check when potentially buying a high mileage c70?
      Have a mechanic check all the usual stuff and remember that a new timing belt should go in at at about 120,000 miles. (193,000KMs).
      So if it had not been done that would be a big expense on the outset.

      Front suspension is also important on these cars. They are heavy on a light platform.
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    24. #22
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      Quote Originally Posted by NorthwestMoose View Post
      Any advice on what to check when potentially buying a high mileage c70?
      ask about when the following were replaced:
      - timing belt
      - engine mounts
      - battery
      - pcv/oil filter case
      - shocks
      - control arms
      - axels
      - brake pads/rotors
      - tires
      - transmission fluid
      - brake fluid
      - coolant
      - oil/filter change

      - check tires for uneven wear
      - check cv axel boots for wear
      - check for whistle noise that goes away when pulling out the oil dipstick to suggest pcv needing replacement
      - check for oil leaks to suggest worn cam seals
      - check for leaking shocks or lower control arms
      - check ac works (otherwise may need new ac condenser)
      - check for rumbling noise to suggest worn wheel bearings
      - listen for clunks over speed bumps, could indicate worn end links or engine mounts
      - accelerate quickly to highway speeds to make sure boost smooth and linear (otherwise may need new turbo control valve)
      - check for any thrown cel codes (common related to failed fuel pressure sensors)
      - check windshield washers and wipers work (t shaped connector to tubing can fail and washer fluid sprays all over in the engine bay instead of on windshield, and some wiper motors can blow when cheap aftermarket hid kits used)
      - check top function is smooth and no strange loud rattles when top up to suggest loose cabling
      - check for leaks in trunk to suggest hard top pump issues
      - check door handles/locks work (some can get sticky and/or latches worn)

      i've had my 2008 since 2012 (so roughly 5 year ownership) and have dealt with quite a few of the above...

      most is just maintenance so just good to know how much of the wear items are due to be replaced to factor into your purchase price.
      2008 C70 GT - Black/Black/Nordic Oak/18x8 Black Midirs
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    25. #23
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      Exactly what I was looking for, thank you! The car I had in mind was listed as a manual on cars.com, but found pics on the dealers page and it's actually an auto car. The search continues. Appreciate the help, folks!
      2014 XC60 T6 - P* Tune, K-Pax Exhaust, DO88 FMIC, Ferrita DP, TSW Bathurst w/ Conti DWS06, R-Design Suspension, IPD Rear Sway, Morimoto D2S 4.0 HID Projectors, Skeletonized Airbox, Intake Resonator Delete, Powerflex Bushings, Colder NGK Plugs
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    26. #24
      Junior Member Olstyle's Avatar
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      Looking at manual vs. auto,
      you have to keep in mind that there are some combinations which were never available, so naturally it makes no sense to search for them. Most notably a T5 engine in a facelift car with manual transmission was never sold.(that's the one I would have liked, in the end I settled for auto while staying at T5 and Facelift)
      C70 I 2.0 -> C70 II T5 -> the Moon?

    27. #25
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      Thanks for the tip! Makes total sense that Volvo would not want to offer a manual transmission with their sportiest engine in their only coupe, right??
      2014 XC60 T6 - P* Tune, K-Pax Exhaust, DO88 FMIC, Ferrita DP, TSW Bathurst w/ Conti DWS06, R-Design Suspension, IPD Rear Sway, Morimoto D2S 4.0 HID Projectors, Skeletonized Airbox, Intake Resonator Delete, Powerflex Bushings, Colder NGK Plugs
      2007 XC90 V8 Sport - IPD Sways/Subframe Inserts/Strut Bar Conversion, Stoptech Rotors
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    28. #26
      Junior Member Olstyle's Avatar
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      Totally -_-
      C70 I 2.0 -> C70 II T5 -> the Moon?

    29. #27
      Junior Member haleme's Avatar
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      My 2008 is going on 116k miles and we have had it since 2012. Feels like the top end in this thread. Agree with all the comments regarding the suspension being to weak for the platform. Just went through some hell getting the strut bearings replaced.

      I am doing the normal maintenance with the dealer. Nothing too out of the ordinary in terms of cost. Two more things to add to jschinito's list.

      - have the strut bearings checked in addition to the struts.
      - check functioning of the climate control unit. It is expensive to replace at about $2k for the part.

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    30. #28
      I bought my daughter an 07 with a little less than 80k 3 years ago. She's been driving it about 20k miles a year. It has 141k now.

      Here's the things I recall doing to it other than oil changes:

      -Front shocks, boots and strut bearings right after I bought the car around 80k miles. I did that myself and have a detailed thread on here with pictures.

      -the factory battery died around 90k miles and I replaced it with the best quality one that autozone had

      -Somewhere roughly between 100-110k I took it to the dealer to have the timing belt done. They also replaced the upper engine mount.

      -Around 120k I had the ac compressor replaced (I probably could have just shimmed it).

      -lots and lots of tires. I was doing good to get 10k on tires, so:

      -at about 130k I had adjustable rear control arms installed so that the camber could be set better, I also had new front control arms put on and an alignment.

      -also around 130k I had the cab filter, spider shaped radiator hose changed. I replaced the coolant overflow bottle.

      -recent new pads and rotors on the front and pads on the rear. at that point I learned I only had 3 brakes, so

      -at 140k miles I bought a used abs unit and switched the distribution block from it into my old abs unit. I did that my self. It was tough getting it bled afterwards - basically I bled the brakes, then drove hard the make the abs valves work, then bled a second time.

      Here's some things I plan to do over the next month or so: replace driver seat switch, replace the side mirrors signal lenses and 3rd brake light. Also, the engine seems to run good but I should probably replace the plugs.
      Last edited by rodneygt; 04-30-2017 at 10:38 PM.

    31. #29
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      nice job rodneygt! cool dad award for sure!

      while you're doing the plugs, i would replace the turbo control valve (at 141k i'm sure boost isn't as controlled and linear as stock) and fuel pressure sensor too as it's another common wear items by 100k (usually sooner if city miles)
      2008 C70 GT - Black/Black/Nordic Oak/18x8 Black Midirs
      Shark Tune - GoVo ECU Spacer - Ford e-Focus Mount - Koni FSD - Elevate SwayBar - Massive Camber Arms - Centric Rotors - Akebono Pads - Nokian Z-Line 235/45/18 - Mods4cars SmartTop - Llumar/Madico Tint - E46 Bi-Xenon Retrofit w/ZKW-R Lens Morimoto XB35 - LED Int/Ext/Halos - Fryalip - Fumoto Valve

    32. #30
      Quote Originally Posted by jschinito View Post
      nice job rodneygt! cool dad award for sure!

      while you're doing the plugs, i would replace the turbo control valve (at 141k i'm sure boost isn't as controlled and linear as stock) and fuel pressure sensor too as it's another common wear items by 100k (usually sooner if city miles)
      Thanks. I will do those items too while I'm at it. It appears that you have to remove a number of things to change the plugs so that will be a good time to take care of several things.

    33. #31
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      Quote Originally Posted by NorthwestMoose View Post
      Exactly what I was looking for, thank you! The car I had in mind was listed as a manual on cars.com, but found pics on the dealers page and it's actually an auto car. The search continues. Appreciate the help, folks!
      I have a 2006 passion red with manual transmission for sale. Let me know if you are interested and I can follow-up with details.
      1997 850, 149K
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      2006 C70, 52K
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    34. #32
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      2006 c70

      Hi all. I'm new to Volvo and my first one is a 2006 C70. Picked it up on vacation in Miami two weeks ago. Mine has 91k miles on it and I'm both madly in love with it and disappointed with some of the things I'm finding wrong.

      The car rides like a dream and runs like a top. The roof is so cool. Dropping the top is fun and tickles my geek-tooth. Overall, I love driving it and am happy with my first experience with Volvo. I have hit some minor snags, however. Minor things like the headlights being dim and yellow. I ordered and installed LED headlights and fog lights and all went well except the low beams. For some reason the passenger side low beam triggered a message "Low beam failure" on the information system. I've ordered a different pair of LED low beam bulbs to try to overcome it but I will NOT go back to the old halogens now that I've seen how much better the LEDs are. While replacing the bulbs, however I found that the wiring harness inside the sealed light assembly is in awful condition. The wires insulation is baked, brittle and flaking off the wires. For the time being I've tried to cover all the bare places with electric tape but the hunt for reasonably priced headlight wiring harnesses, or complete headlight assemblies(ouch!) has begun. This wiring situation concerns me and the potential cost worried me.

      The front seats have age cracks in the leather which may, or may not, be minimized or removed without full recovering. I've been told that the leather can be "died" to remove the cracking, although I have no idea how accurate that is. The headliner at the back of the center roof segment has one anchor point off and the cover for the back of the rear view mirror need to be re-glued. These are very minor and I can fix all but the leatherwork.

      Oh, I only got one key/remote with it and am less than thrilled at how much THAT'S going to cost to rectify.

      The two items that I was told to be conscious of when buying a Volvo were the timing belt and catalytic converter. The CarFax shows that the timing belt was replaced at 75K miles, so that's one less thing to worry about.

      I expect to have thins amazingly fun car for a long time, so fixing minor things will be almost as much hobby as necessity. I just hope my hobby doesn't eat my lunch because it's a Volvo.

    35. #33
      Quote Originally Posted by Patronus View Post
      I ordered and installed LED headlights and fog lights and all went well except the low beams. For some reason the passenger side low beam triggered a message "Low beam failure" on the information system. I've ordered a different pair of LED low beam bulbs to try to overcome it but I will NOT go back to the old halogens now that I've seen how much better the LEDs are. While replacing the bulbs, however I found that the wiring harness inside the sealed light assembly is in awful condition. The wires insulation is baked, brittle and flaking off the wires. For the time being I've tried to cover all the bare places with electric tape but the hunt for reasonably priced headlight wiring harnesses, or complete headlight assemblies(ouch!) has begun. This wiring situation concerns me and the potential cost worried me.
      In a slightly serendipitous moment, I have a set of brand new OE headlight assemblies (minus the lenses) that I just bought. I Attachment 3353

      It isn't a hard job to separate your existing lenses and affix to these new cases if you're interested in buying them. Would save you a few hundred and have brand new case & guts.

      The reason I have them is my original lenses cracked badly and this was the only way to get new lenses.

      Cheers,

      .f
      2013 S60 T6 AWD/Grey, 2007 C70 6MT/Magic Blue (Koni FSD, Stoptech/Akebono, Elevate exhaust, smartop module, IPD rear sway/links, more to come...), 2006 XC90 V8/Graphite, 1980 242 GT (previous: XC70, 850GLT, 244 GLT. Parents cars: 244 GLE, 244GL, 123 GT, P544)

    36. #34
      You will probably have to add a resistor to run leds on a halogen car. LEDs use less power so the computer can read the lessened resistance as a blown bulb. Our 07 has the factory bi xenon option, which is very nice.

      Keys and having them programmed is expensive. You can probably find more info on the s40 p1 forum as there are more of those and they are similar to our p1 c70s

      I've seen some threads where people did some nice work on repairing their old leather - very labor intensive.

    37. #35
      Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2012
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      1,299
      i didn't have much luck with led h11s a couple of years ago when i tried. poor throw/distance lighting, although very bright up close. agree the stock halogens are horrible. i did everything, from improving aiming/angle, brighter h11 bulbs, had great success with modified h9 bulbs. led kits at the time just threw way too much glare. may swap out my fog lights for them, but i like keeping the fogs a yellow tint and the stock halogens do that already. a cheap "bulb out canceller" device didn't work with the led kit i got either. ended up doing e46 retrofit with morimoto hid w/canbus harness for great lighting and no bulb-out warning light.

      leather honey has worked wonders for bags/jackets for me. haven't needed it on the c70 seats yet.


      Quote Originally Posted by Patronus View Post
      Hi all. I'm new to Volvo and my first one is a 2006 C70. Picked it up on vacation in Miami two weeks ago. Mine has 91k miles on it and I'm both madly in love with it and disappointed with some of the things I'm finding wrong.

      The car rides like a dream and runs like a top. The roof is so cool. Dropping the top is fun and tickles my geek-tooth. Overall, I love driving it and am happy with my first experience with Volvo. I have hit some minor snags, however. Minor things like the headlights being dim and yellow. I ordered and installed LED headlights and fog lights and all went well except the low beams. For some reason the passenger side low beam triggered a message "Low beam failure" on the information system. I've ordered a different pair of LED low beam bulbs to try to overcome it but I will NOT go back to the old halogens now that I've seen how much better the LEDs are. While replacing the bulbs, however I found that the wiring harness inside the sealed light assembly is in awful condition. The wires insulation is baked, brittle and flaking off the wires. For the time being I've tried to cover all the bare places with electric tape but the hunt for reasonably priced headlight wiring harnesses, or complete headlight assemblies(ouch!) has begun. This wiring situation concerns me and the potential cost worried me.

      The front seats have age cracks in the leather which may, or may not, be minimized or removed without full recovering. I've been told that the leather can be "died" to remove the cracking, although I have no idea how accurate that is. The headliner at the back of the center roof segment has one anchor point off and the cover for the back of the rear view mirror need to be re-glued. These are very minor and I can fix all but the leatherwork.

      Oh, I only got one key/remote with it and am less than thrilled at how much THAT'S going to cost to rectify.

      The two items that I was told to be conscious of when buying a Volvo were the timing belt and catalytic converter. The CarFax shows that the timing belt was replaced at 75K miles, so that's one less thing to worry about.

      I expect to have thins amazingly fun car for a long time, so fixing minor things will be almost as much hobby as necessity. I just hope my hobby doesn't eat my lunch because it's a Volvo.
      2008 C70 GT - Black/Black/Nordic Oak/18x8 Black Midirs
      Shark Tune - GoVo ECU Spacer - Ford e-Focus Mount - Koni FSD - Elevate SwayBar - Massive Camber Arms - Centric Rotors - Akebono Pads - Nokian Z-Line 235/45/18 - Mods4cars SmartTop - Llumar/Madico Tint - E46 Bi-Xenon Retrofit w/ZKW-R Lens Morimoto XB35 - LED Int/Ext/Halos - Fryalip - Fumoto Valve

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