Driveshaft removal to access Haldex -- recommendations?
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    1. #1
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      Driveshaft removal to access Haldex -- recommendations?

      Hi All, I need to service my Haldex, which will likely include the pump removal -- which requires the driveshaft removal. I'm not sure I have the ability to do something in this depth. Can anyone give me some counsel, in detail, on how to do this? I've tried to find YouTube vids to know avail -- and worse, the ones I've found were of experienced mechanics who got the bolts out but couldn't get the prop shaft off.

      I'm in the middle of doing an electronic module replacement and trying to mentally line up which part of this must to to an Indy -- perhaps BEFORE I pull and repair the DEM.

      I've looked at this on VIDA (which did recommend threading a bolt in from the other side to push it out), but it's still not enough info.

      Thanks!
      2005 S60R MT. Volvo OSD program; Silver Metallic, Gobi; 18" Pegasus, Premium, Climate and Touring Packages; Sirius Sat radio; changed to carbon IAQ air filter with a penknife and two minutes. Added iPod, and Bluetooth phone modules. All on Michelin SuperSport -- great tires. Maintained well, but pretty stock: Enhancements: iPd anti-sway bars, TCV, coils; drilled/slotted rotors, 145,000 miles. Mobil1, all services since new.

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    3. #2
      Member BlkT5's Avatar
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      Drop the cat back, undo rear driveshaft bolts, remove pump
      95 850 T-5R - Stock
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    4. #3
      Junior Member taloras's Avatar
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      The propshaft comes out pretty easily (small 6mm allen bolts) but the flange is trickier. Big beefy 24mm nut requires a counterhold, and the flange will still require some sharp whacks with a sledge from behind or a slidehammer from ahead to pull off. After that, though, the pump and filter are both readily accessible.

      http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...=1#post2264501
      2004 Moose Longroof Go-Fast Row-It-Yourself

    5. #4
      Member Hounddogger's Avatar
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      Forget pulling the propshaft... Just disconnect the center bearing plate, drop the rear exhaust hanger, and pull the driveshaft off the AOC flange.
      Exponents kill
      Elsa my 2004 V70R Silver Metallic&Nordkap >π Miles
      Link to thread: wafflesv70r on Instagram Unofficial R part catalog and maintenance interval spreadsheet.

    6. #5
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      Quote Originally Posted by Hounddogger View Post
      Forget pulling the propshaft... Just disconnect the center bearing plate, drop the rear exhaust hanger, and pull the driveshaft off the AOC flange.
      Thanks all. Hounddogger, this center bearing plate that you're talking about, this is the same as what taloras' linked description talks about: 4 x13 bolts at the cat end? And then, freed up, it slips out of the AOC splines? It seems to me this is the very thing you're saying isn't necessary. But I'm unsure what is the center bearing plate you're talking about.

      Thanks taloras for that link. --I think I have a mind to try this job. That guy did it (likewise) on jack stands, with about three hours. I do have a trusty breaker bar; and some impact air tools, though I think they're worthless at my compressor's 120psi. Even so, it might be enough. --I'm thinking that the plan is to get in all the parts, and do this stage BEFORE I pull and send in the DEM. If I can do it successfully, I'll pull the DEM and immediately send it to Xemodex. And if not, will bundle up what I couldn't do, and drive it to an Indy for prop shaft and pump; then do the rest myself when he's done.

      Additional question though, on the possibility that the muffler *might* have to be separated from cat-back: Will those two bolts likely be frozen, needing some kind of torch? Or might breaker bar be enough. I'm in Florida, so no salt roads here. Or, if I'm understanding right, Hounddogger, that step is even avoidable, right?

      THanks much.
      2005 S60R MT. Volvo OSD program; Silver Metallic, Gobi; 18" Pegasus, Premium, Climate and Touring Packages; Sirius Sat radio; changed to carbon IAQ air filter with a penknife and two minutes. Added iPod, and Bluetooth phone modules. All on Michelin SuperSport -- great tires. Maintained well, but pretty stock: Enhancements: iPd anti-sway bars, TCV, coils; drilled/slotted rotors, 145,000 miles. Mobil1, all services since new.

    7. #6
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      Ah, perhaps I'm getting an understanding. The center bearing, is this simply a kind of bearing in the middle of the prop shaft that more or less helps to hold it up? And might it be the picture here, with the four bolts, right above the muffler? And if I'm correct in this, that what you're saying Hounddogger, is that simply adding this amount of sag in the shaft is enough to allow it to come out from the AOC flange splines. Am I right? Or still missing something?

      2005 S60R MT. Volvo OSD program; Silver Metallic, Gobi; 18" Pegasus, Premium, Climate and Touring Packages; Sirius Sat radio; changed to carbon IAQ air filter with a penknife and two minutes. Added iPod, and Bluetooth phone modules. All on Michelin SuperSport -- great tires. Maintained well, but pretty stock: Enhancements: iPd anti-sway bars, TCV, coils; drilled/slotted rotors, 145,000 miles. Mobil1, all services since new.

    8. #7
      Make sure you make alignment marks (i.e. yellow ink marker) on driveshaft and flanges. It's imperative that you put the shaft back the way it was because they are balanced from the factory.

    9. #8
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      Quote Originally Posted by bentobox View Post
      Make sure you make alignment marks (i.e. yellow ink marker) on driveshaft and flanges. It's imperative that you put the shaft back the way it was because they are balanced from the factory.
      Thanks bentobox. I am grateful for that tip, which I surely would have failed to do.
      2005 S60R MT. Volvo OSD program; Silver Metallic, Gobi; 18" Pegasus, Premium, Climate and Touring Packages; Sirius Sat radio; changed to carbon IAQ air filter with a penknife and two minutes. Added iPod, and Bluetooth phone modules. All on Michelin SuperSport -- great tires. Maintained well, but pretty stock: Enhancements: iPd anti-sway bars, TCV, coils; drilled/slotted rotors, 145,000 miles. Mobil1, all services since new.

    10. #9
      These videos will give you an idea on what to do. First video, @ 10:20, oil pump removal. Second video, @ 4:20, oil pump removal; this one is Haldex version 4. S60R's used version 2 & 3 (I think). Not that hard to do. It'll be much easier if you had a lift. Take your time and don't break anything then you'll be fine.
      First video:
      https://youtu.be/adKwiZ2e0Qs?list=FL...D25mphjXEhhCsA
      Second video:
      https://youtu.be/uZNC06Z7imQ

    11. #10
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      Quote Originally Posted by bentobox View Post
      These videos will give you an idea on what to do.
      Hi Bentobox, thanks. I had seen both of those videos -- wonderful both. I've watched them several times now. But what I can't find, is a video of how to separate the prop shaft from the AOC flange. Taloras' link above gave some great detailed information, and it led me to believe I could undertake it. Still, the one element not shown was how to separate those two parts.

      After taking a second look at that link, I came to a realization: That poster's issue was the pump directly -- as detailed by VIDA. My VIDA shows the DEM -- with the presumption that if the pump was bad it would have shown a code. So, despite XeMODex's strong admonition that the DEM might show pump is needed, and to do it all at the same time, I'm beginning to swing toward simply doing the DEM -- which is obviously a much easier job. Yeah, I risk blowing a $400 newly repaired board, but in light of all of this, I'm contemplating that's the way to go, here. Still, I would LOVE to know how to separate that prop shaft from AOC. --That job may come either now, or soon enough.
      2005 S60R MT. Volvo OSD program; Silver Metallic, Gobi; 18" Pegasus, Premium, Climate and Touring Packages; Sirius Sat radio; changed to carbon IAQ air filter with a penknife and two minutes. Added iPod, and Bluetooth phone modules. All on Michelin SuperSport -- great tires. Maintained well, but pretty stock: Enhancements: iPd anti-sway bars, TCV, coils; drilled/slotted rotors, 145,000 miles. Mobil1, all services since new.

    12. #11
      It doesn't look too hard to remove the driveshaft. If you're down there, might as well replace everything. And maybe do the vibration dampener mod by titan joe, here's a link to his thread:
      http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...mpener-Failure

    13. #12
      titan joe used a 3 jar puller. You can probably use a steering wheel puller or bearing puller. Good luck

    14. #13
      Member Hounddogger's Avatar
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      The prop shaft is not really held into the AOC flange. It's only held in there by the driveshaft bolts. When you remove them the driveshaft will just fall out of the flange.
      Exponents kill
      Elsa my 2004 V70R Silver Metallic&Nordkap >π Miles
      Link to thread: wafflesv70r on Instagram Unofficial R part catalog and maintenance interval spreadsheet.

    15. #14
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      Quote Originally Posted by Hounddogger View Post
      The prop shaft is not really held into the AOC flange. It's only held in there by the driveshaft bolts. When you remove them the driveshaft will just fall out of the flange.
      Ah, so I'll only need enough clearance then to pass the flange part, right? And the center bearing removal (or whatever it is closer to the front) will allow this extra "play"?
      2005 S60R MT. Volvo OSD program; Silver Metallic, Gobi; 18" Pegasus, Premium, Climate and Touring Packages; Sirius Sat radio; changed to carbon IAQ air filter with a penknife and two minutes. Added iPod, and Bluetooth phone modules. All on Michelin SuperSport -- great tires. Maintained well, but pretty stock: Enhancements: iPd anti-sway bars, TCV, coils; drilled/slotted rotors, 145,000 miles. Mobil1, all services since new.

    16. #15
      Member Hounddogger's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by donzo View Post
      Ah, so I'll only need enough clearance then to pass the flange part, right? And the center bearing removal (or whatever it is closer to the front) will allow this extra "play"?
      Yep. Just unbolt the plate and you'll be able to drop the shaft enough to get it out of the flange.
      Exponents kill
      Elsa my 2004 V70R Silver Metallic&Nordkap >π Miles
      Link to thread: wafflesv70r on Instagram Unofficial R part catalog and maintenance interval spreadsheet.

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