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Aznatama's Build Thread

7K views 112 replies 16 participants last post by  aznatama 
#1 · (Edited)
I might as well start my own build thread. Planning on rebuilding a hybrid k24 with a hilton 2.5 tune. Nothing too fancy, but I want to put some life into this caR.

2006 V70R GT M66

Maintenance done all within past year:
AmsOil ATF
AmsOil Euro 0w-40 at recommended intervals
Redline Shockproof Lightweight gear oil
brake flush with Ate SL.6
All other fluids changed w/ factory fluid

Stage 0
-SS brake lines
-FPS
-MAP sensor
-Upgraded pierburg BPV
-OEM Bosch coils
-Volvo plugs NGK LFR7AIX one-step colder iridium race plugs
-Mann cabin filter
-PCV checked and working
-timing belt done at 118k
-Full PCV service
-All new fluids in drivetrain
-NEw timing belt kit (OEM)
-All new engine mounts

Parts collection / plansStage :D:

CNC ported head
Do88 drop in IC
8EightFab dp w/ swappable test-pipe/cat
Custom 3" -> 2x 2.5" exhaust w/ Borla XR-1 8EightFab full Ti resonated cat-back exhaust (<13lbs!)
S4 MAF
Snabb intake and IC piping
Hybrid k24 (Kinugawa 7+7 54.6/71mm compressor wheel, clipped turbine)
Forge CBV FMDVK04S
Flow matched Deatschwerks 650cc Bosch injectors flow matched at ~700cc @ 3bar/100%
M66 swap w/ SMF and OEM Luk clutch and pp
Snow stage-2 MAF meth injection
Built by Rolling Motors LLC
Tuned by Steveo


First night - no meth (She's ALIVE!!!! BIG thanks to Ben for all the hard work!!!)
 
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#6 ·
Connor is correct about stage 3; You should do 650cc injectors to support the additional flow also.


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#8 ·
I just checked my coils, and no cracks seen. Do coils wear out? and is there a way to determine their mfg date?

Engine is pretty damn dirty too. Is it okay to remove the coils, cover electronics in plastic, and pressure wash the entire top of the engine? There's dirt inside the spark plug holes as well, which I'd like to remove.

Also, there's a large crack on my stock plastic IC piping, right at the upper mounting tab. Time to utilize my warranty for this, as well has having the shop take a look at why there's a bunch of oil covering my turbo turbine housing. (car eats some oil, I think this is where it's going)
 
#9 ·
There is a date code on top of each coil, its a year-week code if I remember correctly. They can look good and still go bad, so no real way to know when they are on their way out short of when they start snuffing out under boost and causing a power stutter.
 
#10 ·
Sounds like you're on your way.... have fun. Excited to see how it turns out. I'm sure you'll be happy with it.


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#14 · (Edited)
Anyone know if I should replace the water and oil lines when I install my hybrid? Are there upgraded lines available, or should stock lines be sufficient?

Also, anything I need to pay attention to when removing the stock turbo, or is everything just a simple unbolt and reconnect (do I HAVE to drain the coolant, or can I just plug the lines once I remove it)?

Thanks.
 
#18 ·
I wasn't, just giving a neutral response. =P

Anyways, I skipped the power washing, would've taken too much time in the wash bay. Ended up using engine degreaser, a toothbrush, and a bunch of paper towels to clean most of the muck off. Wasn't able to get to the loose dirt around the spark plugs, but I'll just leave it for now, and have my mechanic blow it out with an airgun before I do plugs. Put the new coils in as well, no noticeable change, but good insurance. Old coils now for sale in classifieds.
 
#19 ·
I might as well start my own build thread. Planning on rebuilding a hybrid k24 with a hilton 2.5 tune. Nothing too fancy, but I want to put some life into this caR.

2006 V70R GT

Maintenance done all within past year:
AmsOil ATF
AmsOil Euro 0w-40 at recommended intervals
brake flush with Ate SL.6
All other fluids changed w/ factory fluid

Stage 0
(either completed or have parts waiting to be installed)
-SS brake lines
-FPS
-MAP sensor
-Upgraded pierburg BPV
-OEM Bosch coils
-Volvo plugs (will get NGK one step colder once tuned)
-Mann cabin filter
-PVC checked and working
-timing belt done at 118k

Parts collection / plans:
(already have or planning to get)
do88 drop in IC
8EightFab dp will run catted for now due to emissions and noise, but I have the option of going catless with a simple pip section swap
OEM exhust (haven't decided which catback to get. Noise is an issue.
S4 MAF
Snabb intake and IC piping
Hybrid k24 (will purchase a used K24 to send off for a rebuild w/ a oversized 7+7 compressor wheel, clipped turbine, and perhaps ported wastegate)
OEM injectors (seems like these should support my planned ~400-425 crank hp build; will get them serviced)

Questions:
-Should I get new oil lines for the turbo? OEM or braided lines?
-Should I go ahead and shim the block and/or get the head refreshed with a valve sear job and all? Problem is... where to get this done locally...
-Anything else I'm missing that I should also do?
For the oil and water lines for the turbo i did bought them on ebay

The guy was selling a whole turbo kit at 900$ us and i asked him if he could sell me all the stainless steel lines (water and oil) as well as all the gasket and bolts without the turbo

He agreed to sell me the parts for 109$ us









My mech did not use the flexible stainless oil line in the kit since i bought new rigid prestone and oil steel pipe (the black powder coated ones on the last picture) that get around the engine

However, for the water lines all the gasket and bolts i think for 109$ us its good thing if you plan upgrading your k24 to hybrid

By the way my oem turbo oil and water lines were all cracked and about to fail at any moment

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#23 ·
#22 ·
If you search "MAMBA GTX Turbocharger VOLVO S60" on ebay, there's a seller in the UK that has that kit (same seller maybe?). There's other kits that have oil/water lines for Volvos, but without that little T flange thing for the oil return. Seems like stock lines aren't that bad though, so in order to avoid bling, I think I may stick with stock lines.
 
#30 ·
Very nice!

I wanted a hybrid 7+7 but they were all out of stock (backorder) when i did rebuild my turbo 1 month ago... i checked the ARD and viva performance at that time and they were both back order

Did you get yours on ebay? From what i hear kinugawa is a big supplyer and even if it sound chineese it is very relyable

I went with a 11 blade hybrid instead. Since we have a very similar setup it would be interesting to compare how soon the 7+7 blades start to spool vs the 11 blades when we are both done with our project :))

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#29 ·
Yes the guy just sold me the line, bolts and gasket so i could install them on the hybrid rebuild k24

Im north of Montreal (laurentides) the engines is still out off the bay but we should put it back at the end of this week :)

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#32 ·
Diverter valves...

Forge FMDVK04S and FMDVK04D appear to be the same, with the exception og the nipple being straight vs side exit. Not sure why all the caR applications advertise the direct version (Viva and EST both show only direct fit versions), while the side exit is only listed for the non-R Volvo cars. They seem to both work on the Porsche 997, and it seems like both are interchangeable.

Forge's site shows the side exit as fitting Volvos, and the direct as only fitting bentlys and vauxhaulls
http://www.forgemotorsport.com/Vaux...entley_Recirculation_Valve--product--774.html
http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/Direct_Fit_Piston_Recirculation_Valve--product--1006.html

Anyways, I ordered a side exit off a seller on ebay for $64 shipped. He was selling for 100, offered 80, applied 20% ebay automotive parts coupon. =) The seller's got 2 left if anyone wants one.
 
#33 ·
You ordered a forged unit for $64 on eBay? Or another brand? I know there has been a high volume of knock forge units floating around that actually don't work properly.

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#34 ·
haha, we'll see. It looks legit. The seller appears to have gotten his hands on a bunch of overstock Ford/domestic items, which included 3 Forge Motorsport FMDVK04S units. His phone pics of the box, decal, and spec sheet look legit. $100 for a 2nd hand part isn't hard to believe (I've seen this part go as low as $120 in the past from Porsche tuning shops).
 
#40 ·
thats at 3 bar of pressure. our cars run at 4 bar of pressure...

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60lb injectors, same set ipd sells. I believe our caRs start at 3bar, but increases to 4bar as required in the upper rpm range. My obd scanner shows 43psi fuel pressure putting around the city.

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#44 ·
Whats the power potential of a hybrid wheel? I was planning on stopping at FMIC, exhaust, and a tune, but wonder if I could be tempted to upgrade to a hybrid wheel since it could be thousands less than upgrading the whole turbo.
 
#45 ·
Viva estimates 420hp/450tq at the crank with supporting upgrades (dp, exhaust, IC, CBV, Hilton stg 3, water/meth injection). Interesting thing is that they don't list injectors, but Hilton said I needed them. I'm hoping for close to 400 crank, although I really don't care too much about straight up numbers. I also plan to add an Aquamist system later on down the road.

Still looking for a block shim shop though.
 
#46 ·
Yeah, I used to put more stock in numbers, until I discovered the cars I enjoy the most rarely stand out on paper. I'm not really chasing any specific number as much as just looking for some gauge of value relative to a bigger/different turbo since this looks like a much cheaper option. From what I recall viva mentions '420BHP or more' which to me reads like there is potential for more. I know theres more to it than a peak number tho, mine will always be a street car so I'd love to keep a good low end while maximizing area under the curve.

Have you considered DIY for the shimming? If and when I do most likely the motor will stay in the car, looks like the camlock tools are $50 on amazon.
 
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