Brake Pull - Please Help!
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    1. #1

      Brake Pull - Please Help!

      The brakes pull right when driving above 35 MPH and braking to slow. The car dips right, wheel turns. Then when letting off the brakes, it jolts back to the left, pretty drastically.

      XC90 V8 with about 145k

      The lower control arms are new and have new bushings (I posted on another thread about that...). I originally replaced the left side first and discovered the pull, then did the right side thinking it would solve it but to no avail.

      New tie rods, was aligned. Car drives straight down the highway. I think I need another alignment after doing the right side control arm but the pull really only happens when braking, so thinking the brake system here.

      New pads - old rotors.

      I bled the left side caliper thinking there may be air in the lines after I compressed the caliper for pads. Will do the right side to see if that changes anything. After bleeding the lines, the pull went away! But now we can feel it again after a day.

      So could it be there is still air in the lines? Or could air be getting into the lines somehow? What are the symptoms of a bad master cylinder?

      My thoughts for what could be wrong:

      Seized caliper (though I didn't see any issue when installing pads)
      Sticking caliper pins
      Air still in the lines, need to bleed car fully
      Pinched brake rubber flex line (this could have happened when doing the other work I did)
      Master Cylinder (could it be diverting fluid one way more than another?)

      Some less likely culprits:

      Rotors (if bad, would cause a pedal vibration)
      Rear Control Arm Bushings (I read that bad in the rear can affect the front but wouldn't think it to be as drastic as it is under braking)


      Any thoughts? Experiences with this sort of thing?
      2006 XC90 V8 145k
      2004 BMW 330 XI
      2005 Ford F-150

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    3. #2
      Junior Member
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      Your thoughts sound good; likely front left caliper issue (stuck piston, or flex-hose issue), but could be more complicated (master cylinder, abs, rigid lines)? What about rotor contamination? Any visible leaking fluid?

      https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...ic.php?t=18798
      2006 xc90 2.5t - 115kmi - Hilton Tune - R Design Supension : Family Wagon
      2009 v50 2.4i 75kmi - Bone Stock : Wifemobile
      2011 c30 RD : Moms
      2012 s60 t5 : Pops

    4. #3
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      I would first change the left brake hose. I've seen two fail but in these cases by not releasing the brakes. I suppose they could equally fail by not letting the fluid through at all. With a second person you could check that.

      Next in line if no joy with the hose would be a caliper change.

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    6. #4
      I didn't see any visible signs of leaking fluid. Left side caliper looked good, piston looked good, it also compressed easily with compressor tool.

      No visible faults to the rubber flex hose. I was able to bleed that side and fluid came out so I thought it was ok but I suppose it could be pinched and restricting flow. I would still see fluid if that were the case, it just would be more restricted then the right side.

      I'm thinking I'll change out the hoses and still see if it does it.
      2006 XC90 V8 145k
      2004 BMW 330 XI
      2005 Ford F-150

    7. #5
      i would bleed the brakes again. how are you bleeding them? the other things you mention are not likely the issue at your mileage.

    8. #6
      Junior Member rjosep01's Avatar
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      Had a very similar problem with mine

      Wobbly wheels while braking

      https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...3&share_type=t

      Don't know if you used after market parts but Since I am not as proficient as many others here on this forum including yourself... I was told that the LCAs were not of good quality. If you look at my post you'll see I replaced them with after market parts twice then tried to have an OE bushing pressed in. After all was said and done I understood the problem to be bad parts were used to replace the problems. If anything hopefully the great guys on this forum will give you better insight.

      Good luck!


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    9. #7
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      How long ago did you replace the front control arm bushings? And what brand did you use?

    10. #8
      Member oneofakind's Avatar
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      Did you replace both inner and outer tie rods? I have a pull left/steering wheel turn right similar to yours due to bad inner tie rods.

      Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
      2007 XC90 V8 Sport (R-Design), Passion Red, Large Iron Mark Grille, Satin Black Metallic Powder Coated Rims, 2013 Smoked Tail Lights, Lighted Upper Tail Lights, Chrome Executive Inlets, 32" Light Bar, Full Roof Rack w/ 36" Tri-Row Bar, 20" Light Bar, 4 7" Side Light Bars, 2 6" Back Up Light Bars, Full Sized Shovel, Full Sized Axe, Hi-Lift. S60R Brembo Brakes Front+Rear, 25mm Spacers, EBC Rotors+Pads.

    11. #9
      Member ggleavitt's Avatar
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      If you don't mind my asking:

      When you brake (pick one)-
      1. It veers for as long as you are increasing your brake pressure but with constant pressure it recovers.
      2. When you apply any level of braking it starts to veer and continues for as long as you have any level of braking applied.

      Regardless, really need to get the car re-aligned with any significant front suspension change-out (and the right control arm was about as significant as it gets).
      2005 XC90 B5254T2 175k
      2008 XC90 B8444S Sport 110k

    12. #10
      Quote Originally Posted by ggleavitt View Post
      If you don't mind my asking:

      When you brake (pick one)-
      1. It veers for as long as you are increasing your brake pressure but with constant pressure it recovers.
      2. When you apply any level of braking it starts to veer and continues for as long as you have any level of braking applied.

      Regardless, really need to get the car re-aligned with any significant front suspension change-out (and the right control arm was about as significant as it gets).
      I'd say number 2 is more accurate. You step on the brakes and it pulls right and will continue, then when you let off, it wants to jolt back left. I can release the brake gently and it won't jolt as drastic however.

      Agreed on the alignment, I have a 3 year program with Goodyear so will do that as soon as I am able. In the midst of a move and Volvo had to make it to SC before any further work is done.

      New flex brakes lines are ordered so I will replace them and see if it remedies the issue.

      Control arms were just recently replaced with Moog parts. Outer tie rods were replaced as well, Moog parts. The driver inner tierod was replaced as it was seized to the outer, but I did not replace the passenger inner. All that feels tight.
      2006 XC90 V8 145k
      2004 BMW 330 XI
      2005 Ford F-150

    13. #11
      Member ggleavitt's Avatar
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      Was kind of hoping it was #1, had a similar scenario and it turned out to be worn control arms (was personally convinced that the pull was coming from the rear, same as you wrote in your post, new OE LCAs and an alignment made everything work properly).

      Since you went with aftermarket LCA, was thinking maybe that might have been a contributing factor. Maybe after another alignment with everything stable and in place, things will resolve themselves. Maybe.....

      Are the ball joints and/or strut bearing plates original or have they been replaced as well? Asking for no other reason than curiosity.

      Very interested in hearing how this ends up. I'm personally stuck on a geometry shift versus dragging of a braking component but that's just a guess on my part.

      Thanks
      Last edited by ggleavitt; 04-21-2017 at 09:19 AM. Reason: add comment
      2005 XC90 B5254T2 175k
      2008 XC90 B8444S Sport 110k

    14. #12
      Junior Member
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      Another culprit of movement under heavy braking could be subframe bushings. Unlikely in this case though...
      2006 xc90 2.5t - 115kmi - Hilton Tune - R Design Supension : Family Wagon
      2009 v50 2.4i 75kmi - Bone Stock : Wifemobile
      2011 c30 RD : Moms
      2012 s60 t5 : Pops

    15. #13
      Junior Member rjosep01's Avatar
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      Just as an FYI the parts I got from a distributor were mentioned by someone here on the forum to have been Moog parts. I couldn't tell who the manufacturer really was as I got them off of EBay. But he stated the quality of Moog parts had gone downhill after being purchased by another company. I purchased 2 sets of after market LCAs and still had the problem until I got OEM parts. I had the pistons, subframe mounts, and struts all looked at... problem wasn't resolved until I replaced the LCAs with OEM parts. I also replaced the struts because they needed to be done but the pulling went away with the replacement of the LCAs. You could have another issue but because it seems very similar to the problem that I had. I would bet money it's the after market LCAs. Trust me... I invested a lot to resolve my issue!
      Let us know know your progress. I'm interested to hear if similar symptoms can have varying causes.


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    16. #14
      I'll keep you guys posted.

      I've always had good luck with my Moog parts on Jeeps I've had. Used them on the BMW as well. Plus the bushing looked much beefier then what came off - I took a picture. If I ever get a second in the midst of moving I'll post it. Interesting to know they were bought - was that recently or years ago?


      Ball joints were replaced as well. Strut bearing plates have not been replaced though I'm getting all kinds of noises over bumps and such so they are on my list. I know there is a sticky on the noises these things make but that is a project I will tackle in the future.
      2006 XC90 V8 145k
      2004 BMW 330 XI
      2005 Ford F-150

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