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Problem to remove the rear propeller shaft
My car is an XC70 AWD 2006.
I need to change the AOL Haldex oil, so I removed the muffler and the exhaust given that they need to be replaced.
I only have the catalytic converter in place, I put something under it to avoid it tilts too much.
I followed the instructions on Vida to remove the rear propeller shaft but so far, without success.
1) Remove the screws from the propeller shaft center bearing. done
2) Slacken off the screws in the support for the center bearing on the right-hand side a few turns. done
3) Fully remove the screws on the left-hand side done
4) Let the center support hang down so that the propeller shaft can be angled. done
5) Remove the screw from the joint. If this is meant the one left in the flange for safety reason then I did it
6) Press the shaft joints together, detach it from the flange.
7) Remove the shaft.
I am not clear on point 6), could you please explain Press the shaft joints together? Which joints do they refer to?
The shaft cannot be tilted too much because it is just above the catalytic converter and I do not want to put the weight of the shaft on it.
If I try to pull the shaft without tilting, I just get about 1 cm movement towards the front but that is the cv joint rubber movement, then I hear a sound like something blocking it, as if there would be another screw holding it, but there is not.
What am I missing??
Perhaps I should remove the bolts on the front shaft??
I posted on other forums too, but nobody was able to help or I got information that was not relevant to resolve the problem.
I hope you can help me to understand what I am doing wrong, unless the rust is the real issue, then I really would not know how to get the shaft to come off.
Here below some pictures.
If I understand the question correctly your issue is that the driveshaft will not seperate from the haldex coupling. This is common. Ussually I give it very liberal dousing with penetrating fluid like some wd-40 or similar, Might want to do this and let it sit overnight. I then use a brass hammer to hit the coupling, Hit in a spot, rotate hit in another spot. If all else fails there is one threaded hole that goes in to the back of the coupling, You thead a bolt into this and it will push the driveshaft out. It is rare this step has to be taken, And it isn't easy. Your in Canada and the car is rusted. This makes things like this very difficult.
Many thanks for your advice.
I threaded already the two M8 20mm bolts on the back of the flange, the thing has not moved 1mm.
I could try PBBlaster and see what happens, so far I did not use any penetrating fluid, is there any rubber part that might be damaged or am I good to go?
Definitely this is not beautiful California man, rust reigns.
To be honest with you, I am re-assembling everything because after three days trying to remove the shaft with no result, I am exhausted.
Many people say that I can still change the Haldex oil without removing the filer or the pump, but I think the oil I could suck out is not much, what do you think?
At the moment, my AWD does not work, since the pump was changed 4 years ago and the DEM is good, either oil level is too low or the sensor is gone, which is why I start from the less expensive option and then go to the sensor if needed.
the rust is the real issue.
when it says "press the joint together" it just means that the shaft has some slip, and you can pop the flange off and the shaft will compress without damage.
soak it in something not WD40, it's useless.
PB blaster or Kroil.
If oil doesn't do the job after a few days soaking, it's time to get out a torch and heat the flange. It will pop after some heat and a few smacks with a hard plastic mallet.
In your pictures the dust cover is loose but the flange is still stuck. You are on the right track with using the bolts from the rear of the flange. That being said, it is highly unlikely that a low oil level is causing your awd issues, unless you have a serious leak at the aoc. Have you pulled codes, and is your bevel gear coupler good?
The error I get is DEM-0007 Hydraulic pressure faulty value, so the oil level would be the first check.
I am not sure on how to check whether the bevel gear coupler is good or bad.
Regardless, after 11 years, changing the oil in the Haldex can only be beneficial.
The Haldex oil in our '04 XC70 was black at 10 years and 98,000 miles. Sucked out 0.5 liter, all possible. Replaced same and drove, then another withdraw and refill.