Turbo blanket
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    Thread: Turbo blanket

    1. #1
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      Turbo blanket

      Anyone used one? Thoughts?

      Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
      2005 Volvo S40 T5 AWD M66 || 1987 Toyota MR2 || 2002 Lexus IS300 [hers] || 2008 Volvo V50 T5 [Sold 2016] || 2001 Acura Integra GSR [Stolen 2010 lol]

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    3. #2
      So good and bad here.

      Good is it lowers underhood temps, which helps greatly. Bad is they all advertise to be made of "titanium" and only 1 brand actually is, do your research here. Many light on fire when heated enough (to red hot) - youtube is your friend. When dealing with these sort of heat numbers (up to 1500*F exhaust temps at the end of a 3rd gear pull), you want quality.

      However my vote? Disconnect the inlet and outlet, undo the 3 bolts holding the turbine housing to the body, and send it in to get ceramic coated. It will last longer, have less issues, and handle and dispel heat better. Get a good service that cleans/coats inside and out (I used Cody Jones at NitroPlate, no regrets so far), or you'll risk the interior (if it gets hot enough) disintegrating due to a lack of thermal protection on the inside and a coating on the exterior preventing heat transfer. (or go on fleabay and buy one in decent condition and send it in to get coated then swap them out one day when you have a few hours) (it's a pretty cheap service, my entire dual header system for my harley (about 8 feet of pipe) was $120 for the cleaning/coating).

      I plan on building a complete turbo and getting both the headers, exhaust elbow, and turbine inlet/outlet housing done by him. It lowered temps on my harley's exhaust to around 220*F at the highest whereas before it would melt my wife's shoes/clothes instantly if touched (well over 300-350*F). Proof is in the pudding and it works very well on an air cooled application. I'd love to see a liquid cooled one.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha 10:1 Pistons; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    4. #3
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      I assume you're referring to the DEI Titanium Turbo Shield which has those videos withstanding a blowtorch right? That being said, it sounds like the only drawback is false advertising by many companies?

      Assuming the results are similar, a turbo blanket seems much more convenient than getting the turbo ceramic coated.
      2005 Volvo S40 T5 AWD M66 || 1987 Toyota MR2 || 2002 Lexus IS300 [hers] || 2008 Volvo V50 T5 [Sold 2016] || 2001 Acura Integra GSR [Stolen 2010 lol]

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    6. #4
      https://www.centuryperformance.com/e...OrNrWci7fZ44fq

      This is the single most compelling argument. That being said, it is a high performance application that won't see much time of day in the real world so it applies as much as you have your foot down on the pedal.

      Insulating piping is a different matter than ductile iron, but the general principle is the same. So will it work? Yes. But I'd personally buy a junker off ebay for $100, take it apart, send it in and get the headers/turbine housing coated for about $100, put a new $150-$200 cartridge in it and wait for the existing system to crap out or do a turbo swap early and do the same thing with the other and sell it for a pretty penny and recoup some of the dough. But that's me. Spend $350-$400 and get everything to the Downpipe done. It's the only way to truly ensure the heat goes out the tailpipe and the system doesn't crumble slightly if it's pushed hard for a track day.

      Having ceramic coated headers will prevent your studs/nuts from heat rusting as well, making removal the next time much easier.
      Last edited by avenger09123; 04-19-2017 at 03:10 PM.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha 10:1 Pistons; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    7. #5
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      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post

      But I'd personally buy a junker off ebay for $100, take it apart, send it in and get the headers/turbine housing coated for about $100, put a new $150-$200 cartridge in it and wait for the existing system to crap out or do a turbo swap early and do the same thing with the other and sell it for a pretty penny and recoup some of the dough. But that's me. Spend $350-$400 and get everything to the Downpipe done. It's the only way to truly ensure the heat goes out the tailpipe and the system doesn't crumble slightly if it's pushed hard for a track day.

      Having ceramic coated headers will prevent your studs/nuts from heat rusting as well, making removal the next time much easier.
      I've actually already done part of the process you're describing (remember our long IM discussion lol). I plan on getting the headers ceramic coated soon, but for some reason, I'm hesitant to get the turbine housing done.
      2005 Volvo S40 T5 AWD M66 || 1987 Toyota MR2 || 2002 Lexus IS300 [hers] || 2008 Volvo V50 T5 [Sold 2016] || 2001 Acura Integra GSR [Stolen 2010 lol]

    8. #6
      Quote Originally Posted by V50toS40 View Post
      I've actually already done part of the process you're describing (remember our long IM discussion lol). I plan on getting the headers ceramic coated soon, but for some reason, I'm hesitant to get the turbine housing done.
      What's holding you back?
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha 10:1 Pistons; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    9. #7
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      Hmm well getting the turbo housing ceramic coated doesn't seem as common as getting the headers done and I haven't been able to find great information on it.

      Also, I haven't been able to find that much info (reputation wise) about the coating companies in my area.

      All that in mind, ceramic coating headers and using a blanket on the housing seemed like a good compromise.
      2005 Volvo S40 T5 AWD M66 || 1987 Toyota MR2 || 2002 Lexus IS300 [hers] || 2008 Volvo V50 T5 [Sold 2016] || 2001 Acura Integra GSR [Stolen 2010 lol]

    10. #8
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      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      What's holding you back?
      Probably getting the turbo out! Not a simple or fun job


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      2005 V50 T5 AWD M66

    11. #9
      Quote Originally Posted by V50toS40 View Post
      Hmm well getting the turbo housing ceramic coated doesn't seem as common as getting the headers done and I haven't been able to find great information on it.

      Also, I haven't been able to find that much info (reputation wise) about the coating companies in my area.

      All that in mind, ceramic coating headers and using a blanket on the housing seemed like a good compromise.
      True that. There isn't a big market for coating non-exhaust parts, but they can do it. I was talking to the guy I got mine done through and he said they can, and typically do it on intake manifolds for V8's and intake tracks on more expensive cars when it's not for the exhaust.

      The only people I have used is a man named Cody Jones from the shop Nitroplate, which is why he's the only one I recommend after I got my harley headers/exhaust done by them. Ceramic coating isn't really a "big" thing since you can buy and wrap your pipes yourself or get some of that "spray on" ceramic coating from the auto store. However I did that once and it flaked off the tip of the header and on down slowly within 10,000mi of install, and I decided after that if I did get it done, it would be done by a good company who will properly blast and acid soak pipes as needed.

      But you're 100% correct, coating the headers inside and out should take a significant portion of the heat and put it straight in the exhaust rather than being absorbed and spread around the turbo. And if you coated the turbine housing, you would need to beef up your intercooler system a bit since the turbo wouldn't be eating some of that heat from compression. A turbo blanket would make a nice "middle ground."
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha 10:1 Pistons; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    12. #10
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      I've also considered using VHT Flameproof. But it really seems like your results may vary and I only have one chance to get it right cause once it's on, I'm not taking the headers off again lol. That's cool that you found a trustworthy company but isn't NitroPlate in Nashville?
      2005 Volvo S40 T5 AWD M66 || 1987 Toyota MR2 || 2002 Lexus IS300 [hers] || 2008 Volvo V50 T5 [Sold 2016] || 2001 Acura Integra GSR [Stolen 2010 lol]

    13. #11
      Yep - had UPS ship my header pieces there in 1 Box and they shipped them back with about 8" worth of bubble wrap around each one - they look like this plus 1 pipe not in the photo

      Afterwards they looked like this (all shiny and not chrome but nice nonetheless, no need for heat shields anymore):
      Last edited by avenger09123; 04-21-2017 at 04:46 PM.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha 10:1 Pistons; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    14. #12
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      It seems like shipping back and forth would cost almost as much as the cost to coat no?
      2005 Volvo S40 T5 AWD M66 || 1987 Toyota MR2 || 2002 Lexus IS300 [hers] || 2008 Volvo V50 T5 [Sold 2016] || 2001 Acura Integra GSR [Stolen 2010 lol]

    15. #13
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      2005 Volvo S40 T5 AWD M66 || 1987 Toyota MR2 || 2002 Lexus IS300 [hers] || 2008 Volvo V50 T5 [Sold 2016] || 2001 Acura Integra GSR [Stolen 2010 lol]

    16. #14
      Quote Originally Posted by V50toS40 View Post
      It seems like shipping back and forth would cost almost as much as the cost to coat no?
      Oh hey I didn't see this sorry about that -

      No the return shipping was free from the place I got the work done and it was WELL packed. Shipping there was done by UPS and amounted to like $45 for them to pack it and send it away. If I had packed it and sent it through USPS it would have been probably $20-$30.

      That blanket looks like it'll fit! But for $239 for a fringe benefit, it's a bit pricy in my opinion..
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha 10:1 Pistons; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

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