IPD Turbo Intercooler Hose Problems
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    1. #1
      Junior Member josephku's Avatar
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      IPD Turbo Intercooler Hose Problems

      I'm having some issues with the hose that goes from the top of the turbo to the over-engine pipe, hopefully someone had similar issues and can provide some insight.

      I installed the silicone IPD turbo hose kit that has 2 pieces, one from the turbo to the over-engine pipe, and one from the over-engine to the intercooler. I put those in around 6 months ago, at 175,000 miles.

      Recently I started having problems with the hose on top of turbo. I was driving up a pretty decent hill, started to give the car a bit more gas and there was a sudden loss of power and a smell of oil in the car.

      I pulled over and found the hose on top of the turbo popped off. I reattached it and drove home with no problems.



      Since then, it happened a couple more times. I started to not trust the car, I'm afraid to give it any gas.

      Recently, I took everything apart and cleaned it really good, and put a brand new hose clamp on it. It has been staying on for almost a week but today when I looked at it the hose clamp was halfway off the hose, I pushed it back down and it has been holding so far. The hose clamp seems to be kinda loose when the engine is cold, but once it's at operating temp it tightens up (from the hose expanding, I'm assuming)

      When I took it all apart I realized the IPD hose seems too big to go around the over-engine pipe. Perhaps it expanded over time, not sure. But this seems like the cause of the problem, the hose clamp can hold it closed but I feel like the hose is "pushing out" on the clamp.

      Just curious if anyone has dealt with anything like this?
      2006 XC70 (195K) - Silver/Black | IPD Skid Plate | IPD Subframe Bushing Inserts | Micro-RV Build
      2004 S80 T6 (126K-148K) - Black/Black - RIP

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    3. #2
      after you clean it, use some hairspray to lube it when you put it back together.

      It will keep the hose from moving on the mating surface, assuming the clamp is actually doing it's job.

    4. #3
      Junior Member josephku's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by nsjames View Post
      after you clean it, use some hairspray to lube it when you put it back together.

      It will keep the hose from moving on the mating surface, assuming the clamp is actually doing it's job.
      I don't think it's a problem with the hose itself. One of the times I had the problem, I went out in the morning and checked before starting the car, and the hose clamp has already slipped off. To me, that seems like it must be the hose clamp, especially because it popped off while the engine wasn't running.
      2006 XC70 (195K) - Silver/Black | IPD Skid Plate | IPD Subframe Bushing Inserts | Micro-RV Build
      2004 S80 T6 (126K-148K) - Black/Black - RIP

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    6. #4
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      The clamp may be starting to get stripped. Get a new worm clamp.

      Also make sure to get rid of the oil on the pipe, it looks absolutely soaked and that can definitely make clamps slip off.
      2001 V70 T5 | 400,000 KM | Vogtland springs + Enkei BR7, ARD tune @ 18psi, Snabb "Big" intercooler & piping, catless DP + Vibrant Ultra-Quiet + Magnaflow 5x8, do88 3" intake, Snabb TCV, Xemodex ETM

      2002 XC70 | 402,000 KM | Bone stock, winter beater

    7. #5
      Junior Member josephku's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Legtayor View Post
      The clamp may be starting to get stripped. Get a new worm clamp.

      Also make sure to get rid of the oil on the pipe, it looks absolutely soaked and that can definitely make clamps slip off.
      I already did. I got a brand new hose clamp and cleaned everything until it was bone dry. Put it back on and it has stayed so far, but is starting to slip off. The hose has oil on it again, which I think is because of the gap I noticed on the IPD piece.

      I am very tempted to order the OEM rubber hose and try that with new clamps.

      Is there a specific torque to tighten this hose clamp to?
      2006 XC70 (195K) - Silver/Black | IPD Skid Plate | IPD Subframe Bushing Inserts | Micro-RV Build
      2004 S80 T6 (126K-148K) - Black/Black - RIP

    8. #6
      Quote Originally Posted by josephku View Post
      I already did. I got a brand new hose clamp and cleaned everything until it was bone dry. Put it back on and it has stayed so far, but is starting to slip off. The hose has oil on it again, which I think is because of the gap I noticed on the IPD piece.

      I am very tempted to order the OEM rubber hose and try that with new clamps.

      Is there a specific torque to tighten this hose clamp to?
      And what quality clamp did you use? They are most certainly not all created equal. It needs to be the dual ring type or similar high compression type.
      What is this gap you are referring to? Is it possible that the hose isn't fully seated allowing for the clamp to do it's job?

      Sent from my KYOCERA-E6560 using Tapatalk
      Last edited by WAGONER; 04-19-2017 at 04:53 AM.

    9. #7
      Check to make sure the metal insert in the OTE pipe isn't slipping out, it should be flush with the end of the pipe. The oil you are seeing is coming from the pipe/turbo, not seeping into it.

    10. #8
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      You should be using a t-bolt clamp, not a worm clamp.

    11. #9
      Junior Member josephku's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by WAGONER View Post
      And what quality clamp did you use? They are most certainly not all created equal. It needs to be the dual ring type or similar high compression type.
      What is this gap you are referring to? Is it possible that the hose isn't fully seated allowing for the clamp to do it's job?

      Sent from my KYOCERA-E6560 using Tapatalk
      The gap I'm referring to is the IPD hose. Originally it fit fine, but now the inner-diameter of the hose is larger that the outer-diameter of the over-engine pipe. So there ends up being a gap between the hose and pipe, until the hose clamp is on.
      2006 XC70 (195K) - Silver/Black | IPD Skid Plate | IPD Subframe Bushing Inserts | Micro-RV Build
      2004 S80 T6 (126K-148K) - Black/Black - RIP

    12. #10
      Silicone will swell when subjected to alot of oil. How is your pcv system?

    13. #11
      Member T501's Avatar
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      Also that clamp needs to be pretty darn tight. You should use a socket wrench and not a screwdriver to tighten it.
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 178K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, HD coils, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 79k miles
      Wife -'13 C30 T5 R-Design Dad - '98 S70 T5 160K + miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD HD rear springs, SAS delete Mom -'10 S80 V8 Executive Sis - '02 S80 T6 Backup car -'13 S60 T5

    14. #12
      Junior Member josephku's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by hootie6828 View Post
      Silicone will swell when subjected to alot of oil. How is your pcv system?
      PCV was all done 20,000 miles ago last year.

      Quote Originally Posted by T501 View Post
      Also that clamp needs to be pretty darn tight. You should use a socket wrench and not a screwdriver to tighten it.
      I tried getting it really tight, and the clamp only stayed on for 5 min. If I tighten it (engine cold) to the point where I can barely move the hose clamp with my hand, it will stay on. Then when the engine gets warm the hose clamp tightens up more (from the hose expanding and pushing out, I assume)

      Does anyone know the torque spec, if any, for this hose clamp?
      2006 XC70 (195K) - Silver/Black | IPD Skid Plate | IPD Subframe Bushing Inserts | Micro-RV Build
      2004 S80 T6 (126K-148K) - Black/Black - RIP

    15. #13
      Quote Originally Posted by josephku View Post
      If I tighten it (engine cold) to the point where I can barely move the hose clamp with my hand, it will stay on.
      you shouldn't be able to move it after it's tight.

      Can't say I've ever wanted to put a torque wrench on a hose clamp. Tighten until you see it start to squeeze the hose and call it good. if I had to guess I'd say 8 ft lbs or so given how tight I put them on with a 1/4" drive ratchet

    16. #14
      Member T501's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by josephku View Post
      PCV was all done 20,000 miles ago last year.



      I tried getting it really tight, and the clamp only stayed on for 5 min. If I tighten it (engine cold) to the point where I can barely move the hose clamp with my hand, it will stay on. Then when the engine gets warm the hose clamp tightens up more (from the hose expanding and pushing out, I assume)

      Does anyone know the torque spec, if any, for this hose clamp?
      What do you mean barely move? If it's tight it shouldn't move at all. There's no torque specs for hose clamps. Either you're not getting it tight enough, or you have a bad clamp. T-bolt clamps are nice and better than worm clamps, but a working worm clamp will do the job just fine if properly tight. I've been running the same worm clamp on mine for 16 years but I also have the OE rubber. Silicone is a lot more slippery than rubber so the clamps have to be even tighter than with rubber hoses to keep everything together. That's one of the negatives to silicone hoses.

      Orient the clamp so that you can reach with a ratchet and extension from the passenger side of the car, it's the easiest way I've found to get it tight. As seen here:
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 178K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, HD coils, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 79k miles
      Wife -'13 C30 T5 R-Design Dad - '98 S70 T5 160K + miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD HD rear springs, SAS delete Mom -'10 S80 V8 Executive Sis - '02 S80 T6 Backup car -'13 S60 T5

    17. #15
      Junior Member josephku's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by nsjames View Post
      you shouldn't be able to move it after it's tight.

      Can't say I've ever wanted to put a torque wrench on a hose clamp. Tighten until you see it start to squeeze the hose and call it good. if I had to guess I'd say 8 ft lbs or so given how tight I put them on with a 1/4" drive ratchet
      That's the problem. I tighten until it starts to squeeze the hose, but once it starts squeezing the hose it just slips off.

      I think I'm going to order the OEM rubber hose, the silicone just seems too slippery once it gets a bit of oil on it, and it's no longer the right size.



      FCP shows this as being OEM, I'm going to order it and give it a try.
      2006 XC70 (195K) - Silver/Black | IPD Skid Plate | IPD Subframe Bushing Inserts | Micro-RV Build
      2004 S80 T6 (126K-148K) - Black/Black - RIP

    18. #16
      Junior Member josephku's Avatar
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      IPD Turbo Intercooler Hose Problems

      Quote Originally Posted by T501 View Post
      What do you mean barely move? If it's tight it shouldn't move at all. There's no torque specs for hose clamps. Either you're not getting it tight enough, or you have a bad clamp. T-bolt clamps are nice and better than worm clamps, but a working worm clamp will do the job just fine if properly tight. I've been running the same worm clamp on mine for 16 years but I also have the OE rubber. Silicone is a lot more slippery than rubber so the clamps have to be even tighter than with rubber hoses to keep everything together. That's one of the negatives to silicone hoses.

      Orient the clamp so that you can reach with a ratchet and extension from the passenger side of the car, it's the easiest way I've found to get it tight. As seen here:
      By barely move, I meant I could still move the clamp if I put some force on it. Any tighter and it slips off. I couldn't just crank down the clamp, it would be slipping off as I tighten it.

      See my post above, I'm going to be ordering the OEM hose. I only put the silicone on because I thought it would last longer. Apparently not.

      EDIT:
      As far as T-Bolt clamps go, is there a special kind I should order? Or does any T-Bolt clamp do?
      Last edited by josephku; 04-19-2017 at 02:55 PM.
      2006 XC70 (195K) - Silver/Black | IPD Skid Plate | IPD Subframe Bushing Inserts | Micro-RV Build
      2004 S80 T6 (126K-148K) - Black/Black - RIP

    19. #17
      Member T501's Avatar
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      Rubber will be a lot easier to deal with. They last plenty long too. Still on my original hoses on my '01.
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 178K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, HD coils, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 79k miles
      Wife -'13 C30 T5 R-Design Dad - '98 S70 T5 160K + miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD HD rear springs, SAS delete Mom -'10 S80 V8 Executive Sis - '02 S80 T6 Backup car -'13 S60 T5

    20. #18
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      I think the bigger issue is the amount of oil you're collecting in the OTE pipe. I don't accumulate that much oil in 10,000 miles let alone every couple days, and my car has a lot of miles.

      I don't know enough to suggest a solution but it could be coming from the turbo.
      2001 V70 T5 | 400,000 KM | Vogtland springs + Enkei BR7, ARD tune @ 18psi, Snabb "Big" intercooler & piping, catless DP + Vibrant Ultra-Quiet + Magnaflow 5x8, do88 3" intake, Snabb TCV, Xemodex ETM

      2002 XC70 | 402,000 KM | Bone stock, winter beater

    21. #19
      Junior Member josephku's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by T501 View Post
      Rubber will be a lot easier to deal with. They last plenty long too. Still on my original hoses on my '01.
      That's what I thought. It's not like I'm trying to push more power or anything.

      Quote Originally Posted by Legtayor View Post
      I think the bigger issue is the amount of oil you're collecting in the OTE pipe. I don't accumulate that much oil in 10,000 miles let alone every couple days, and my car has a lot of miles.

      I don't know enough to suggest a solution but it could be coming from the turbo.
      Well I think the problem is because the hose won't seal right with the OTE pipe, so all the oil that would normally pass through just seeps out.
      2006 XC70 (195K) - Silver/Black | IPD Skid Plate | IPD Subframe Bushing Inserts | Micro-RV Build
      2004 S80 T6 (126K-148K) - Black/Black - RIP

    22. #20
      The turbo -> charge pipe (pipe over engine) hose isn't the same size at each end if I remember correctly... It's slightly bigger at one end, like 1/8" or something. Might try turning it around. Also, if you have access to a metal file, but hash marks on the ripples the hose slides over or apply some silicone adhesive.

    23. #21
      Junior Member josephku's Avatar
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      I started to replace the hose with the one I ordered. I took the old one off and went to install the new one, when this metal piece fell out of my OTE pipe.



      Is this supposed to happen? I thought the metal piece is supposed to stay in the OTE pipe.
      2006 XC70 (195K) - Silver/Black | IPD Skid Plate | IPD Subframe Bushing Inserts | Micro-RV Build
      2004 S80 T6 (126K-148K) - Black/Black - RIP

    24. #22
      Member T501's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by josephku View Post
      I started to replace the hose with the one I ordered. I took the old one off and went to install the new one, when this metal piece fell out of my OTE pipe.


      Is this supposed to happen? I thought the metal piece is supposed to stay in the OTE pipe.
      I've never seen that fall out. In fact I didn't know it was there but I assume it's supposed to be there to prevent cracking the pipe while tightening the clamp. I would just put it back in even if it's loose. I'm sure it's too big to go anywhere once in place and it will stay put once the clamp is tight.

      On the other hand, if that ring is able to slide up into the OTE pipe, that could explain why yours kept popping off.

      Maybe you should take the pipe off completely and test fit the coupler to it and see if that ring stays in place.
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 178K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, HD coils, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 79k miles
      Wife -'13 C30 T5 R-Design Dad - '98 S70 T5 160K + miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD HD rear springs, SAS delete Mom -'10 S80 V8 Executive Sis - '02 S80 T6 Backup car -'13 S60 T5

    25. #23
      Junior Member josephku's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by T501 View Post
      I've never seen that fall out. In fact I didn't know it was there but I assume it's supposed to be there to prevent cracking the pipe while tightening the clamp. I would just put it back in even if it's loose. I'm sure it's too big to go anywhere once in place and it will stay put once the clamp is tight.

      On the other hand, if that ring is able to slide up into the OTE pipe, that could explain why yours kept popping off.

      Maybe you should take the pipe off completely and test fit the coupler to it and see if that ring stays in place.
      I tried to put the ring back in the OTE pipe, but you can't fit it in. On the inside of the OTE pipe the plastic is rough and a smaller diameter than the ring. It seems the ring was pressed in from the factory, and I doubt you can get it in by hand or with most tools.

      So no, the ring cannot slide up into the OTE pipe.
      2006 XC70 (195K) - Silver/Black | IPD Skid Plate | IPD Subframe Bushing Inserts | Micro-RV Build
      2004 S80 T6 (126K-148K) - Black/Black - RIP

    26. #24
      how much larger is the ring than the plastic?

      Put the ring in the freezer. Warm the plastic with hairdryer.
      See if it slips in.

    27. #25
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      Josephku,

      I had that happen on my XC70. Get some boiling water in a plastic container and dunk the plastic end in the water. I just took a tea kettle full of water and placed it in a plastic container. It will become contaminated with oil so that you will not want to use a good container. Slip the metal piece into the plastic. You might need to dunk it in the water a couple of more times if the plastic cools off. If you use a hair dryer the plastic will not be evenly hot.

      With the metal ring inside the plastic OTE tube, the tube will be able to sustain the torque needed to keep the pipe in place.
      2004 XC70 AWD Since new, now at 94,000 miles
      2009 S80 T6 AWD Since new, now at 74,000 miles
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    28. #26
      Junior Member josephku's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by duovolvo View Post
      Josephku,

      I had that happen on my XC70. Get some boiling water in a plastic container and dunk the plastic end in the water. I just took a tea kettle full of water and placed it in a plastic container. It will become contaminated with oil so that you will not want to use a good container. Slip the metal piece into the plastic. You might need to dunk it in the water a couple of more times if the plastic cools off. If you use a hair dryer the plastic will not be evenly hot.

      With the metal ring inside the plastic OTE tube, the tube will be able to sustain the torque needed to keep the pipe in place.
      I'll have to do this when I get home. Unfortunately, I had to get to work so I connected the pipe without the metal piece. I just made sure not to crank it down really tight, no power tools.

      It is tight enough to seal good, and the car is noticeably more responsive.
      2006 XC70 (195K) - Silver/Black | IPD Skid Plate | IPD Subframe Bushing Inserts | Micro-RV Build
      2004 S80 T6 (126K-148K) - Black/Black - RIP

    29. #27
      Quote Originally Posted by hootie6828 View Post
      Check to make sure the metal insert in the OTE pipe isn't slipping out, it should be flush with the end of the pipe. The oil you are seeing is coming from the pipe/turbo, not seeping into it.
      Nobody ever listens.....lol.
      Hope this fixes your issue. Btw, the stock fitting is silicone too, it's the only place that volvo put silicone, assuming it was to cope with the heat of the turbo.

    30. #28
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      As others have mentioned, I'd clean it very well, get a more robust clamp and make sure it's torqued. The only two hoses I have had come off my motor were because I put them back on greasy, and because I used a cheap auto parts clamp.
      2002 V70T5 - IPD Stage 1, H&R Lowering Springs

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