Serpentine belt replacement guide?
Username
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    Results 1 to 8 of 8
    1. #1
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Mar 2015
      Location
      Netherlands
      Posts
      173

      Serpentine belt replacement guide?

      Hi guys,

      On wet day starts my car screeches like a banchee, disappears when you blip the throttle. Now I know you guys don't really tend to have the diesels but I'm wondering if anyone has or has access to replacement manuals from VIDA? I'm 90% sure it's the serpentine belt as screeching is kind of their thing, but if I want to replace it in an afternoon I'd like to do that with a guide It's a 2.0D PSA engine, 2006 and if that's relevant, pre-DPF.

      Thanks in advance!

      Luuk

    2. Remove Advertisements

      Advertisements
       

    3. #2
      Member
      Join Date
      Dec 2013
      Location
      Northern CA
      Posts
      2,376
      Depending on the quality of the accessory belts, they can slip when cold. I would recommend the gates century belts if you can get them for your diesel. If that doesn't solve your problem then you've got a tensioner getting weak and you should replace asap. Assuming the diesel belts are in the same configuration as the petrol ones, the tensioners have large torx that you use to relax the tension off the belts and then slip them on and off. Easy job, takes longer to get the inner fender off than change the belts.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      2005 V50 T5 AWD M66

    4. #3
      Member GRat9717's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 2013
      Location
      NJ, USA
      Posts
      2,187
      Quote Originally Posted by mercdude View Post
      Easy job


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      I'd like to point out that getting the crank -> AC belt on can be a bitch. It is a very tight fit. Also, the torx holes in the tensioners strip out very easily. Easy job if all goes well, but a bear if something goes wrong.
      Garage Queen - 2010 C30 R-Design Vrooooooom
      Daily - 2016 V60 T5 Drive-E Vrooooooom
      Zichrona Livracha - 2004.5 S40 T5

    5. Remove Advertisements

      Advertisements
       

    6. #4
      So it is easy to determine if your belts are screeching - one morning, put some dish soap or rub some bar soap on each side of the belt. If the screeching goes away, you know it's the belt. If it doesn't, then you know it's one of the tensioner arm's bearings (but listen to confirm it). Best part is it washes off with a little water and they are no worse for the wear.

      Replacing the belt is easy, remove the fenderwell and use a T50 with a 4-6 (100-150mm) extension and a ratchet to press in and turn. The reason people say it strips out is because they stop pushing inward when they twist. You have to do both at the same time and keep pushing inward. It is a one hand job though, leaving the other hand free to pull the belt towards you and off the tensioner wheel. From there you can release your hand with the ratchet and let the tensioner slide back into place, then just pull the belt off one pulley at a time. If you happen to strip it out, two screwdrivers, one to lift up on the arm and one to force the belt off the arm will work just fine.

      Same thing for the second belt (the alternator/AC pulley one) but it's pretty easy to pop it off the tensioner first, then the AC pulley second and then bring it up and outward through the top and around the Alternator pulley. reverse goes for install.

      I tend to put the belts in place and then twist the tensioner and slide the belt over the tensioner wheel then release it. It allows you to finger feel and make sure the belts are in the correct spot before putting tension on them.

      You have two options if your tensioners are going bad, VIDA says 10 year replacement, but for the most part as long as they don't throw a belt, they're ok. You can buy wheels/bearings for about $15 if it's a bearing going bad on you. They're just an unbolt and reassemble process. However, getting the AC/Alternator tensioner out requires dropping the passenger side motor mount and lowering the engine a few inches to pop out. Buy OEM if you're getting full tensioners. I bought the INA ones and the first time I twisted it to release tension and the the bit ate into the tensioner. Second and third time made it worse. As for bearings/wheels, TIMKEN and TORRINGTON are two good brands if you can get them, but most of them will be INA, and they're ok, but they're not sealed so you'll need to pop them open and service them at 50,000mi or so if you want them to last.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha 10:1 Pistons; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    7. #5
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      Apple Valley MN
      Posts
      3,807
      If I'm looking at the correct engine. D4204T it's very simple. A single belt. The tensioner has a hex instead of Torx. Remove engine cover. Turn tensioner anti-clockwise to de-tension. Use a 4mm drift to hold tensioner open if you wish while you wrangle the belt off & on.

      2007 V70 5 Speed
      2005 S40 2.4i 5 Speed

      1995 855 5 Speed SOLD

    8. #6
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Mar 2015
      Location
      Netherlands
      Posts
      173
      Yup it's a D4204T, does it say what size hex I need? T50 I have but I don't think I have a comparable hex lying around

      Awesome thanks guys, should be a doddle it looks like The entire set is 50 euros with a new tensioner so I think I might as well replace that bearing just to be sure the noise goes away.

    9. #7
      Member pczeilon's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      Apple Valley MN
      Posts
      3,807
      No size specified. I would recommend the kit as well.
      To avoid ever touching the hex... If you buy the kit you could cut the belt. Remove tensioner. Make sure you insert the drift into new tensioner assembly using a bench vise to hold the hex while you twist the assembly. Install tensioner. M10=50nm M8=24nm. Install belt. Pull drift. I can't image you don't have the proper hex lying about though.
      2007 V70 5 Speed
      2005 S40 2.4i 5 Speed

      1995 855 5 Speed SOLD

    10. #8
      One belt...lucky dog...
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha 10:1 Pistons; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    11. Remove Advertisements

      Advertisements